New to Fanatec

Erik EkErik Ek Member

Hi,

I am new to Fanatec and it is a bit overwhelming, however, this guide has ironed out my basic questions; https://boostedmedia.net/technology/2020-fanatec-sim-racing-buyers-guide/


Still, I would find it much helpful to verify my tentative purchase here on the forums. I am on Xbox X only.

* Podium wheel base DD1/2

* ClubSport Steering Wheel Formula V2.5 X: To my understanding, if upgraded with the Podium Advanced Paddle Module, such combo would be function/quality-wise be equal to the PS-only Podium Racing Wheel F1®?

* Clubsport V3 pedal set: If used in this rig, https://www.playseatstore.com/f1-black-2017.html, I assume the inverted version is most suitable?

* What mounting item should I purchase?

* QR2: I interpret it as the improvement of Q2 over Q1 is “only” to simplify shifting wheels on the wheelbase, correct? Also, the above rig would out of the box be QR1 but upgradeable to QR2, correct?

* Game support: Any input on how the rig functions with Codemasters’ F1 2021 and WRC10 (yes, I would consider a second more suitable wheel)?

Thanks!

Comments

  • Gregg DomainGregg Domain Member
    edited October 2021

    Regarding the Formula v2.5X (or any wheel on Xbox, really), you'll find that only the standard inputs will be functional. So, standard ABXY buttons, LB, RB, etc. only. Things like toggle switches and rotary encoders will either function as duplicates of other buttons, or will not function at all. Also non-functional are LED displays while in game, so no rev lights, no speedo, no flag LEDS, nothing. This is a longstanding issue (as in, years) and neither Microsoft nor Fanatec have ever really properly addressed it. All we get is a vague notice on the product page that certain features may not be fully functional, or something to that effect. According to some people, there are rumors that "something" is being worked on, but again nothing official, so don't hold your breath.

    Honestly, if you're in a position where you're fortunate enough to be able to spend that much money on sim gear and a high quality rig, I'd give serious thought to spending some of that money on a decent PC that will allow you to use your wheel to its intended and full potential.

    A couple of months ago, I personally did just that, after many years of gaming on Xbox. The ability to remap virtually any function to any button on my wheel, along with mouse/ keyboard support, button box support, the ability to easily mix and match peripherals from different manufacturers, not to mention generally overall better graphics, plus support for mods, plus access to a far greater library of racing titles...? I can't go back to racing on Xbox anymore. It really does make that big of a difference.

  • +1 to PC. there is much more you can do to customise to your preferences. and you get to call it a sim. ๐Ÿ˜Š

    otherwise it is still gaming on xBox? ๐Ÿ˜‰

  • Them's are still fightin' words...๐ŸฅŠ๐Ÿ˜

  • @Gregg Domain: Thanks! Hm, seems like my posted reply disappeared… Rather than re-posting out of memory, I can just say that I read up on the topic and are now aware of it being a big thing.

  • ๐Ÿ˜‚…..yea no need for the community to be divided even more than it is. I definitely agree about the advantages of a PC over a console. Don’t get me wrong, I love my gaming consoles, and have loved every one that I’ve ever owned. But there in lies the root of the problem, it’s has always been a “gaming console”.

  • If we set aside the Xbox - PC discussion (you can do it, I believe in you), I am still interested should anyone find the time to comment on my questions. ๐Ÿ˜Š


    * Clubsport V3 pedal set: If used in this rig, https://www.playseatstore.com/f1-black-2017.html, I assume the inverted version is most suitable?

    * What mounting item should I purchase?

    * QR2: I interpret it as the improvement of Q2 over Q1 is “only” to simplify shifting wheels on the wheelbase, correct? Also, the above rig would out of the box be QR1 but upgradeable to QR2, correct?

  • What will you be driving most of the time? If you will be using cars without a clutch like F1 or GT cars, then I would stay away from the V3’s. There is not much in the way of pedal spacing adjustment, and with the center bar that the Playseat has, it will be right in line with the brake. Not to mention the stress it puts on your knees if you do long races. For mounting item, not sure what exactly you mean but, most use bolts and washers. Yes, the QR2 is only to reduce play. Yes, it will come with the QR1. Yes, it is upgradable.

  • Thanks!

    Yes, mostly non-clutch.

    Pedals: Interesting, are there any specific pedals from Fanatec you would recommend instead?


    As for mounting, I was thinking what purchase is required to bottom mount as per the attached instruction? Or are bolt and spacers included with the wheel base?

    QR: Ok, thanks.


  • Now don’t get me wrong, the V3’s, both versions are very good. Hopefully, the CSL Pedals will get their Load Cell Kit released soon. That is what I would go after, absolute personal opinion on that. I have the CSL Elites with Load Cell, I like them very much and aside from the occasional potentiometer hiccup, which sometimes requires cleaning, they work great. The Hall effect sensors on the new models are definitely a better option to go with. I’m pretty sure the Playseat would have predrilled holes on the mounting deck for where the wheelbase goes. If that’s the case it’s just a matter of correct bolt size and length according to instructions and some washers if you want them, I pretty much always use washers where I can. I don’t think there are any bolts or spacers for mounting included with the wheelbase.

  • Also, a quick question, with you being on Xbox. Is there any specific reason as to why you are eyeing the DD1/2 rather than just the CSL DD?

  • @Joshua Parsons

    Thanks for quick reply and clarification! But still, you would go with the standard non-inverted pedals to reduce fatigue?


    Bolts: Understood, thanks.


    Wheelbase: I get the question, as I have read up on the quality of the CLS DD after posting this thread. I might end up with the CLS, on the other hand, if I would decide to spend this amount of money, the extra dollars for a DD are diminishing in relation to the gross amount. ๐Ÿ˜‰

  • Yea, for the pedals I would only get the standard CSL Pedals. But definitely keep an eye out for the Load Cell Kit release. There isn’t really any information on that date at the moment. Just to be specific these are the pedals I am referring to:


    Definitely wasn’t trying to deter you away from a DD1/2. I was just curious. If you think you have future plans to go to PC, then I would say probably go ahead and make the jump anyway. The big boy DDs give you so much more headroom in relation to strength and clipping compared to the CSL version.

  • Please, do ask away, I am only happy to get buying advice as I am new to Fanatec’s product range. On that note, it was helpful in Boosted Media’s guide that he was very open about under which conditions the top end products would simply be overkill.

  • David CottleDavid Cottle Member
    edited October 2021

    I have a DD2, Clubsports V2 F1 wheel and Clubsports V3 pedals with brake kit on Xbox Series X and can’t be happier.

    While yes, I’d like the LEDs, etc doesn’t much much effect. I run cockpit view and the onscreen wheel shows me. I find I like the high torque as on average tracks laps seems it’s around 8 nm on turns. I see up to 12 nm peaks.

    I bet with all the new CSL base it will only push more getting the SDK into Xbox at last as others will have the issue. Meanwhile you always have a PC path as well as keep your XBOX too.

    Id still buy a DD2 again for XBOX!


    Cheers!

  • Firmware updates require a PC?!? How can this be in the year 2021? I am on Xbox and Mac only. Ah, the joy of buying a PC just to keep a €4k Fanatec rig updated.

  • Yea, definitely make sure you read any and all relevant information regarding the Fanatec ecosystem before jumping in. A simple laptop would normally work just fine for updating. To reiterate, above all, read EVERYTHING. I think many have selective reading syndrome, and therefore get surprised by issues that happen.

  • No bolts and spacers included with my CSL DD. Only the T-nuts.

    V3 pedals come with vibration motor to simulate ABS which is what I miss out on with my CSL pedals.


    On another note, for anyone else out there, is there a feature I can access to get my base to simulate lost of traction when going into a corner under braking?

    This is definitely true and then the complaints start... and the huffing and puffing!

    Keep your xBox for your gaming. MAC for your general computing/online work... And get a PC just for your rig for sim racing!

  • My appreciation for why this thread’s first reply recommended me to buy a PC is growing by the day. ๐Ÿ˜…

  • edited October 2021

    I was like you.... But for PS.

    Now I am exactly as David described. ๐Ÿคฃ

    "Keep your xBox for your gaming. MAC for your general computing/online work... And get a PC just for your rig for sim racing!"

  • Questions keep popping up as I go along; will the podium mounting brackets fit a DD2 to a Playseat Formula Intelligence? If not, which mounting brackets should I use?


  • Never mind, the seat has a tray onto which the base is bottom mounted.

    https://youtu.be/qVsZi8TX_VI

  • You can, for free install Virtual Box (see virtualbox.org) on a Mac and get it to open up the USB ports to recognize the Fanatec equipment. That said, every attempt to update the firmware has failed to date (4-5 attempts). I am also a Fanatec Newbie with a CSL Pedals, McLaren wheel and CSL DD on Xbox. It is at this time hyper-sensitive (5 degrees of turn result in 50 degrees of turn), and for some reason, it disconnects.

  • And with Virtual Box, you can install a fully working version of Windows 10 and never pay for the activation...

  • I'm on PS with the Podium and V3. The McLaren GT3 is my daily wheel though.

    My advise on the DD1-CSL DD debate is to go with the best you can afford. I think the important difference is in the OLED display and the mounting shaft. The DD1 is head and shoulders above the CSL DD here.

    The after adding the LC to the CSL Pedals, you're talking about approx $160 more to pick up the much nicer V3 pedals. You get rumble motors (which may not work with all Xbox games), dual-action clutch (I've never actually used), a ton of aluminum with red accents that looks bad-ass, and an overall build-quality that really stands out. Personally I don't regret picking up the V3 pedals.

    Which brings me to your choice of cockpit. I went with the GT Track from Next Level Racing because I needed something on casters and I liked the free shipping. If I were you, I would look seriously at the TR8 from Trak Racer https://trakracer.com/products/tr8-racing-simulator?variant=39690655039679

    It might gouge you in shipping but it comes with the monitor mount so at the end of the day the full kit is really well priced. I didn't think my wife would believe I only spent "a couple hundred" with that setup. After setting it all up, she wasn't happy with my financial decisions anyway so maybe I should have just gotten the one I really wanted?

    As for the whole PC / Console debate. I dropped about 4k on this console setup and I'm pretty happy with the outcome. A gaming PC can become it's own HUGE money pit especially when you start adding things like triple gaming monitors. Maybe someday. Instead, I picked up a PS5 and I'll be first in line for the new VR setup coming soon.

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