With "all wheels" all steering wheels are meant, not all wheel bases. This driver is officially only for DD, it works for CSW and CSL but a lot of users reported negative issues on that bases so it was canceled for that bases, see thread name where only Podium Bases is listed.
I never knew that!? I had installed it the same day it was put up...The only issue is the known one with the DRI settings are all acting like -5 which leads to too much dampening of the steering. As I said, all is working just great :)
I own a CSW V2. 5 and according the majority of the users I have concluded that the best drivers up to now are the 346. But I'm still doubting about the motor FW. Should I keep FW22 or downgrade to FW20?
Last, can someone explain me what is meant by notchy?
I think the notchy feeling is meant that the FFB has tiny pauses inbetween or so. It's not smooth or so. I don't know. Someone who knows what notchy is should invite me for a beer and let me feel what on their base.
I'm having nothing but problems with AC on my DD2 with regards to FFB and I'm worried that somehow it's been bricked.
The drivers and firmware have all been updated to the latest version including Fanalab. Never previously had issues with FFB on this game.
PC recognises the wheel base, rim and V3i pedals, with FFB cranked right up to 100, AC gain around 40. Torque key in place. AND no FFB what so ever. Can't feel anything.
Oddly enough these problems all started mid race! I had a big of crash into a wall while in AC, and suddenly artery all that all FFB gone.
Update: FFB seems to work just fine with the exact same setup on F12019 and v2 formula wheel. But going back to Universal hub and AC, FFB completely broken. Not working at all. Help?
Your current profile setting must have gone off/corrupted. Driver v352 is known to change FOR(some other too) settings by itself. The safest way is checking changing them on wheel. Maybe try a different profile?
I'm worry... My DD1 lose signal on straight line randomly.
The problem is the same in iracing and Assetto corsa competizione, and if downgrade the firmware/driver the problem is still there.
When i check the wheel on fanatec wheel base soft driver, i turn the wheel i have randomly some tracking issue.
Observation :
If i dont active the Spring effect on the The wheel as a strange behavior, on straight line i feel like a dead zone at the center, that should not be the casse. Indeed the car by moving fast has more weigh and we shoud feel the résistance off the tire even on straight.
This sensation is worse in linear mode
Each time i rich this dead zone i'm like : "ok the wheel can lose the ffb anytime now"... And it is when it happens (randomly)
Tried another profile and made sure the FFB was at 100% on the wheel, no FFB what so ever in AC. Reinstalled drivers, nothing. Verified AC on Steam, nothing. Made sure FFB still works in other games (and it does). Any other takers at what could be the issue?? It seems so bizarre!
I'm really puzzled that Fanatec will not pay their software programers holiday over time to resolve these rather aggrivating concerns identified and noted across 18 pages of forum posts with their firmware. Like OMG, 31k views on this thread. Particularly after Thomas comes out with a pre-Christmas blog lauding the many great improvements have been made and then his YouTube influencers tell everyone to download the software. How many people feel like Thomas came out and said, "Hey everyone! We made a great improvement to our beta firmware right before we're planning to all leave for Christmas. So download to your hearts galore, risk bricking your equipment or get anxiety with hardware malfunctions. You know, we'll perhaps deal with all your problems eventually in the future!" (Seriously? Make a big release before everyone disbands??)
Nobody expected a firmware update. But the Porsche rim was delayed and Thomas needed to feed the masses so he rushes out a half baked 352/353. And then with the plethora of software issues, people leave for the holidays and all communication dies. (Oh wait, their sales desk is still open)
I'm furthermore puzzled that Fanatec has not hired out a 3rd party technical support call center to assist with the multitude of customers that are suffering either installation errors, firmware instability issues, or hardware problems. Instead they over work poor Marcel & Maurice and have them sift through forum posts trying to gleem something useful to take back to their development team. (Is this what they call Germaneering? or just understaffing and wasted engineering talent?) I'm just saying, at the MIT lab, we paid people to beta test our wares for months before a public release.
From the outside looking at Fanatec, they are showing all the signs of a struggling business. Dropped commitments, incomplete hardware/software roll outs, and treat you like trash customer service response times. Somebody internally who loves Fanatec should do something about this.
I ageee with nearly everything Cassie has stated above. After reading all the troubles everyone was having, I legit paid my IT guy from my company to come help me update and install everything. Without him I would have been absolutely lost because we definitely encountered several issues which required uninstalling, reinstalling, and navigating through file directories that I didn’t even know existed (and I still wouldn’t be able to go back and do it if for some reason everything crashes and I have to start over).
Marcel, you have been awesome though. I’m assuming a lot of us here are not computer whizzes, so when things go awry it’s super stressful when you have no idea how to fix things and there is seemingly a different driver version on every fanatec page that you look.
I too really enjoy the equipment and am really happy with it, but I can honestly say that I have spent more time configuring and troubleshooting than actually driving.
I have to say my DD2 is working the best it ever has with the latest drivers etc ...it just feels good to drive
also the annoying problem of wheel locking up after inital message and have to power down ( in my case hit the emergency stop )and turn back on has about gone...I think out of the last 100 startups it has only failed once to acknowledge the "CAUTION - torque key" message and any button does that...very good
Am just back into iRacing ( 3 moNths renewaL FOR $5 ) and its good and much fun having driving the Pro Mazda at the Nord. No idea if my settings are right or wrong or could be better but
Hello everyone. 2 days ago I received my first DD wheel (Podium DD1) and I have proceeded to install directly the 352 driver. I'm having issues though to understand how to properly set the parameters and the fact that I don't have any experience with a direct drive combined with the absence of basic settings provided by Fanatec for the new driver are leading me into insecurity; I'm not sure if I need to get adapted to the equipment or if I am way off with the numbers. The SimracingGarage guy came to help with his own parameters (19:05 of the video) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2oKccb4-y4o but still I can't quite settle with the weight of the wheel. The problem is that if I lower too much the Max Force, I'm losing that extraordinary feeling that the wheel provides. If I keep it around the levels that the SimRacingGarage guy shows I find very difficult to steer the car in slow corners such as hairpins. And trust me my arms are stronger than his. Also I've tested it only with iRacing, just not to make the confusion even bigger. Any solution guys?
So guys i bought csw v2.5 and with this driver my drift mode is apparently always on -5.... It is really anoying... What should i do... downgrade it? on which version? or just wait till fix... Thank you!
Yes, downgrade to an official CSW driver like 346 or 347. It's a known issue listed on the first post and one of the reasons why this driver is not officially available for CSW.
Uninstall the old driver. Install the new driver. Reboot your pc. Open the Fanatec Wheel Property Menu, go to Update Tab, click on update Base firmware, click OK, click connect, click Flash Firmware. Done.
There are also Youtube tutorials about firmware updates.
I did the upgrade to 3.52 (with additional firmware & motor update). Had issues with the P1 wheel
LED flickering constantly
shifting with the wheel paddles weren't recognised properly by the games (ACC & DiRT2). I had to shift really slow and hold the paddle for almost a second that the shift was recognised.
I found that I was getting the random "jolts on the straights" while driving the FR3.5 at Indy Road in iRacing; only when I had LIN turned on.
I hope this can be resolved as I found the feeling I had when using LIN was really good, especially when in long sweeping corners (such as the banked section of Indy Road) as my DD1 was able to transmit the small road feel feedback as well as the larger forces of cornering. However, I simply can't put up with the random jolts happening every few laps that scare the poop out of me just as I'm setting up for hard braking into turn 1.
ps: @Marcel Pfister it appears you forgot to post about the 352 drivers in the "Latest Beta Drivers - Bookmark this thread to be notified of new uploads!" thread... so I wasn't aware of the new drivers until I saw it mentioned elsewhere on the internet.
After updating to 3.52 driver I disover a new error: on my V3 pedals the break rumble motor keeps running at 100%.
System:
HW: DD2 with Porsche 918 RSR wheel and Fantec V3 pedals.
SW after update: PC driver 352; wheel base firmware 669 and wheel base motor 38.
Fanalab (tried with adn without) now: 1.23
Up to NOW everything was running; when I start my DD2 (did the calibration successfully), I have the issue that the break rumble motor keeps running at 100%.
WHY???
Can you help me please? I am afraid that rolling back will not work for me and I am also interested in the new features of the new driver. What do I need to do to fix it.
P.S: had the issue with the 100% fan running on my DD2, but as suggested that got fixed after the motor update. So what about the permanent rumble break now.
Turn the ABS --> Brake Rumble Motor Setting Up... If you set it to 0 you think its off but that makes it so you Need 0% pedal travel for it to be Active.... to turn ABS Off set ABS past 100% and the Next will say Off then Game will activate your brake rumble motors when they Need to be.... To adjust it manually set the ABS to a #% you would like it to be active when you have reached that pedal travel range... Ex: 65% = ABS rumble on when pedal pressed 65%, 90% = ABS rumble will Not be active until You press pedal 90%. etc
So far no problems with this driver, no BSOD, no errors on driver or whatsoever...
About the sound when turning off, this is clearly a sound of magnets releasing the strength, by no means it's a metallic sound like most people are saying...
The ones having software issues like BSOD's make sure your windows is ok and everything is up to date, try to keep your system clean, use something to create images of your system and recall it like once per month to keep your system free of trash, at least that's what I do... I have a clean image, every month I upload it, update windows, drivers, etc., make new image and than steam,, games, etc., since Fanatec is most of the time on Beta versions, my images do not include Fanatec software or drivers in order to keep it clean and this way it's easier to roll out problems regarding remainings of software or similar things...
Comments
With "all wheels" all steering wheels are meant, not all wheel bases. This driver is officially only for DD, it works for CSW and CSL but a lot of users reported negative issues on that bases so it was canceled for that bases, see thread name where only Podium Bases is listed.
I never knew that!? I had installed it the same day it was put up...The only issue is the known one with the DRI settings are all acting like -5 which leads to too much dampening of the steering. As I said, all is working just great :)
I have read most of the last beta driver threads.
I own a CSW V2. 5 and according the majority of the users I have concluded that the best drivers up to now are the 346. But I'm still doubting about the motor FW. Should I keep FW22 or downgrade to FW20?
Last, can someone explain me what is meant by notchy?
Thank you in advance,
Oli
Hello Fanatec,
Regarding the occasional jolt situation: I encountered this situation 3 times today.
Hope the following helps you further in your investigation.
1) it’s a new dd2, got it yesterday, updated directly to 352.
2) jolts occurred on a one hour run on Daytona road course in iRacing.
3) jolts were encountered after the wheelbase reported a temp of 50+ degrees. (Motor and driver)
4) jolts were encountered on ‘straights’, hardly any steering input at the time, and no obstacles in iRacing in the area (to exclude a wall hit or so)
5) settings of the wheel are identical to the ones in the Sim Racing Garage dd1 review
6) settings on iRacing are 61Nm and max wheel of 25Nm
I will do the same run again this week, and report back on the findings.
if any specifics are needed, or any other test, just send me a message here or email.
Hello,
Is the CSW V2.5 coil whine issue linked to the motor FW? Hence should I keep FW22 or downgrade to FW20 or even to FW18?
Also, can someone explain me what is meant by notchy behavior?
HNY 2020,
Oli
I think the notchy feeling is meant that the FFB has tiny pauses inbetween or so. It's not smooth or so. I don't know. Someone who knows what notchy is should invite me for a beer and let me feel what on their base.
I think firmware 20 is a good compromise.
I'm having nothing but problems with AC on my DD2 with regards to FFB and I'm worried that somehow it's been bricked.
The drivers and firmware have all been updated to the latest version including Fanalab. Never previously had issues with FFB on this game.
PC recognises the wheel base, rim and V3i pedals, with FFB cranked right up to 100, AC gain around 40. Torque key in place. AND no FFB what so ever. Can't feel anything.
Oddly enough these problems all started mid race! I had a big of crash into a wall while in AC, and suddenly artery all that all FFB gone.
Any ideas from anyone else?!
Update: FFB seems to work just fine with the exact same setup on F12019 and v2 formula wheel. But going back to Universal hub and AC, FFB completely broken. Not working at all. Help?
Thanks a lot Rinus and best wishes.
I will stick to 346/20 then.
Oli
Your current profile setting must have gone off/corrupted. Driver v352 is known to change FOR(some other too) settings by itself. The safest way is checking changing them on wheel. Maybe try a different profile?
anyone else find it ludicrous that 7 months after release of the DD's we are still waiting for a decent driver?
I'm with you
I'm worry... My DD1 lose signal on straight line randomly.
The problem is the same in iracing and Assetto corsa competizione, and if downgrade the firmware/driver the problem is still there.
When i check the wheel on fanatec wheel base soft driver, i turn the wheel i have randomly some tracking issue.
Observation :
If i dont active the Spring effect on the The wheel as a strange behavior, on straight line i feel like a dead zone at the center, that should not be the casse. Indeed the car by moving fast has more weigh and we shoud feel the résistance off the tire even on straight.
This sensation is worse in linear mode
Each time i rich this dead zone i'm like : "ok the wheel can lose the ffb anytime now"... And it is when it happens (randomly)
No luck.
Tried another profile and made sure the FFB was at 100% on the wheel, no FFB what so ever in AC. Reinstalled drivers, nothing. Verified AC on Steam, nothing. Made sure FFB still works in other games (and it does). Any other takers at what could be the issue?? It seems so bizarre!
Go back to 346 and try again
I'm really puzzled that Fanatec will not pay their software programers holiday over time to resolve these rather aggrivating concerns identified and noted across 18 pages of forum posts with their firmware. Like OMG, 31k views on this thread. Particularly after Thomas comes out with a pre-Christmas blog lauding the many great improvements have been made and then his YouTube influencers tell everyone to download the software. How many people feel like Thomas came out and said, "Hey everyone! We made a great improvement to our beta firmware right before we're planning to all leave for Christmas. So download to your hearts galore, risk bricking your equipment or get anxiety with hardware malfunctions. You know, we'll perhaps deal with all your problems eventually in the future!" (Seriously? Make a big release before everyone disbands??)
Nobody expected a firmware update. But the Porsche rim was delayed and Thomas needed to feed the masses so he rushes out a half baked 352/353. And then with the plethora of software issues, people leave for the holidays and all communication dies. (Oh wait, their sales desk is still open)
I'm furthermore puzzled that Fanatec has not hired out a 3rd party technical support call center to assist with the multitude of customers that are suffering either installation errors, firmware instability issues, or hardware problems. Instead they over work poor Marcel & Maurice and have them sift through forum posts trying to gleem something useful to take back to their development team. (Is this what they call Germaneering? or just understaffing and wasted engineering talent?) I'm just saying, at the MIT lab, we paid people to beta test our wares for months before a public release.
From the outside looking at Fanatec, they are showing all the signs of a struggling business. Dropped commitments, incomplete hardware/software roll outs, and treat you like trash customer service response times. Somebody internally who loves Fanatec should do something about this.
Regards,
Cassie
I don't know, but Cassie has some valid points.
I ageee with nearly everything Cassie has stated above. After reading all the troubles everyone was having, I legit paid my IT guy from my company to come help me update and install everything. Without him I would have been absolutely lost because we definitely encountered several issues which required uninstalling, reinstalling, and navigating through file directories that I didn’t even know existed (and I still wouldn’t be able to go back and do it if for some reason everything crashes and I have to start over).
Marcel, you have been awesome though. I’m assuming a lot of us here are not computer whizzes, so when things go awry it’s super stressful when you have no idea how to fix things and there is seemingly a different driver version on every fanatec page that you look.
I too really enjoy the equipment and am really happy with it, but I can honestly say that I have spent more time configuring and troubleshooting than actually driving.
I have to say my DD2 is working the best it ever has with the latest drivers etc ...it just feels good to drive
also the annoying problem of wheel locking up after inital message and have to power down ( in my case hit the emergency stop )and turn back on has about gone...I think out of the last 100 startups it has only failed once to acknowledge the "CAUTION - torque key" message and any button does that...very good
Am just back into iRacing ( 3 moNths renewaL FOR $5 ) and its good and much fun having driving the Pro Mazda at the Nord. No idea if my settings are right or wrong or could be better but
Sen auto
FFB 49
Lin off
Nat Dmp 31
Nat Fric 03
Nat Ine OFF
FFB Int 10
F EFF,INT 90
Force 90
Spring 10
Damper10
BR ABS off
Shock 100
MPS auto
and in iRacing have
Strength 5.5
Whhel Force 25nm
Hello everyone. 2 days ago I received my first DD wheel (Podium DD1) and I have proceeded to install directly the 352 driver. I'm having issues though to understand how to properly set the parameters and the fact that I don't have any experience with a direct drive combined with the absence of basic settings provided by Fanatec for the new driver are leading me into insecurity; I'm not sure if I need to get adapted to the equipment or if I am way off with the numbers. The SimracingGarage guy came to help with his own parameters (19:05 of the video) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2oKccb4-y4o but still I can't quite settle with the weight of the wheel. The problem is that if I lower too much the Max Force, I'm losing that extraordinary feeling that the wheel provides. If I keep it around the levels that the SimRacingGarage guy shows I find very difficult to steer the car in slow corners such as hairpins. And trust me my arms are stronger than his. Also I've tested it only with iRacing, just not to make the confusion even bigger. Any solution guys?
So guys i bought csw v2.5 and with this driver my drift mode is apparently always on -5.... It is really anoying... What should i do... downgrade it? on which version? or just wait till fix... Thank you!
Yes, downgrade to an official CSW driver like 346 or 347. It's a known issue listed on the first post and one of the reasons why this driver is not officially available for CSW.
Thank you. But now i dont know how to downgrade it i downloaded all two zip files but dont manage to downgrade it
Uninstall the old driver. Install the new driver. Reboot your pc. Open the Fanatec Wheel Property Menu, go to Update Tab, click on update Base firmware, click OK, click connect, click Flash Firmware. Done.
There are also Youtube tutorials about firmware updates.
I did the upgrade to 3.52 (with additional firmware & motor update). Had issues with the P1 wheel
I found that I was getting the random "jolts on the straights" while driving the FR3.5 at Indy Road in iRacing; only when I had LIN turned on.
I hope this can be resolved as I found the feeling I had when using LIN was really good, especially when in long sweeping corners (such as the banked section of Indy Road) as my DD1 was able to transmit the small road feel feedback as well as the larger forces of cornering. However, I simply can't put up with the random jolts happening every few laps that scare the poop out of me just as I'm setting up for hard braking into turn 1.
ps: @Marcel Pfister it appears you forgot to post about the 352 drivers in the "Latest Beta Drivers - Bookmark this thread to be notified of new uploads!" thread... so I wasn't aware of the new drivers until I saw it mentioned elsewhere on the internet.
I have had these jolts in straight lines and corners and from day 1 and with all firmware.
Sometimes it only happens once or twice in a race other times it is more common, it seems to be very random.
After updating to 3.52 driver I disover a new error: on my V3 pedals the break rumble motor keeps running at 100%.
System:
HW: DD2 with Porsche 918 RSR wheel and Fantec V3 pedals.
SW after update: PC driver 352; wheel base firmware 669 and wheel base motor 38.
Fanalab (tried with adn without) now: 1.23
Up to NOW everything was running; when I start my DD2 (did the calibration successfully), I have the issue that the break rumble motor keeps running at 100%.
WHY???
Can you help me please? I am afraid that rolling back will not work for me and I am also interested in the new features of the new driver. What do I need to do to fix it.
P.S: had the issue with the 100% fan running on my DD2, but as suggested that got fixed after the motor update. So what about the permanent rumble break now.
Thanks in advance!
Turn the ABS --> Brake Rumble Motor Setting Up... If you set it to 0 you think its off but that makes it so you Need 0% pedal travel for it to be Active.... to turn ABS Off set ABS past 100% and the Next will say Off then Game will activate your brake rumble motors when they Need to be.... To adjust it manually set the ABS to a #% you would like it to be active when you have reached that pedal travel range... Ex: 65% = ABS rumble on when pedal pressed 65%, 90% = ABS rumble will Not be active until You press pedal 90%. etc
FYI...
So far no problems with this driver, no BSOD, no errors on driver or whatsoever...
About the sound when turning off, this is clearly a sound of magnets releasing the strength, by no means it's a metallic sound like most people are saying...
The ones having software issues like BSOD's make sure your windows is ok and everything is up to date, try to keep your system clean, use something to create images of your system and recall it like once per month to keep your system free of trash, at least that's what I do... I have a clean image, every month I upload it, update windows, drivers, etc., make new image and than steam,, games, etc., since Fanatec is most of the time on Beta versions, my images do not include Fanatec software or drivers in order to keep it clean and this way it's easier to roll out problems regarding remainings of software or similar things...