PS4 CSL Elite ClubSport , Formula V2, non LC brakes


From the 1st day I had a problem when I brake heavily on any dry track condition.

I have a violent vibration & knocking from my wheel this happens on both my formula V2 & my Esport F1 wheel.

It so loud that people that I am in PSN chat or in game chat can hear it.

The only solution is to turn the in game gain from the recommended 75 down to 60.

But doing this the wheel feels extra light & I feel less confident when turning it's like I have no grip at all & in the wet it's hell to drive.

Any help in would be useful.

I am using firmware 373 because with 401 & 400 all dials when used are slow to react or I have to turn everything twice or even thre time to change.

Ie. my TC & ABS are on 7 & 16 if I go from say TC 6 to 7 or ABS 5 to 4 it either dont change or skips by one ,And the same to number 1 in the diagram above.


  • What is your FEI setting? If you have that at 100 (guessing) reducing that should help reduce the noise without impacting on the overall strength. The noise is a common complaint with the CSL wheelbase.

  • edited February 3

    I have the exact same issue (CSL 1.1, Formula V2 Wheel, csl LC). I'm so disappointed after spending over $1000 US on the base and wheel alone. Every time I hit a curb, understeer at low speed, or come to a complete stop the wheel goes into a death rattle. I have never seen hardware where this is an intended feature. Even at low FEI (50) and low gain I rattle and clunks no matter how hard I'm holding the wheel. I have tightened every damn screw and tried every FFB setting. I can't even use the damn thing in the morning or afternoon because the rattling is so loud it will wake up the whole block. I know some "helpful fellow" is going to come along and tell me to either "lower the FFB" or "turn FEI to 0" or make sure your "mounting screw is tight". I would have to be an idiot not to have tried these things already and refuse to use the device with muted FEI and FFB (Literally the whole point of the device). Oh and I also have the fixing pin in place. Also please don't tell me this is not the wheel base and is just the unique nature of the FFB from the game. I have watched videos of others using the same base without having a faulty vibrator when ABS activates. I know this is harsh but I'm at my wit's end. I'm literally afraid to use the damn wheel because I think it's going to cause itself damage over time. Someone will likely ask me to post a video so I'll record that but I don't see the point. I also get minor oscillations on the straight where the base feels like it has two center points it bounces between. This could be the death rattle with the dynamic damp in effect but I'm not sure.

  • Hey brother we're in luck! I just found out they cucked the ffb back in one of the old driver updates after wasting hours on this. I rolled back to driver version 380 and downgraded the wheelbase with the included firmware leaving everything else. It's much much more manageable now. It doesn't feel like it's trying to shake itself to pieces anymore when coming to a stop, binning it, or curbing. I even got to turn up my fei to 70-80 without it being too annoying. I'll give you a little advice, first uninstall the latest driver. Then download the one I talked about above from the forum, install, reboot. Your wheelbase might not be recognized, in that case re-run the old driver you downloaded and click repair, reboot. You should be on the old firmware now, then go to update under the wheel base property page, click update, repeat the steps above if it's not detected afterward. BOOM it's so exciting to be able to actually drive without being afraid of my wheel.

  • Hi

    I have tried 380 it gives me more lag on my dials .

    I have tried from 373 to 402.

    Only one that gives me a less lag is 373 the rest give my V2 wheel others issue.

    402 gives the best driving feel but even more lag ony dials.

    Also I noticed different setup gives different problems.

    I have CSL PS4 elite with V2 rim 9f that your setup?

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