CSL DD cloncks or clicks

Hi,

I hear periodically “cloncks” from the CSL DD when shifting directions or under high speed corners.

Anybody else experience this?

https://streamable.com/s8ze3v?fbclid=IwAR1HUCyBCm4XwB7shb6ozryUgUoepeuUyQeLimtCutP4fJWkkfuPWMx2Pzg

I can feel this through the wheel and it does not feel great. I have raised a ticket with Fanatec.

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Comments

  • Fanatec support suspects Simplified QR atm. May have to buy the upgraded one.

  • As mentioned in that other thread, and as Mats said:

    Ordering a additional QR1 fixed the problem.. at least for me

  • Damn it, I have the CSL DD with a McLaren V2 and I noticed a click too when suddenly changing diretions (it actually happens quite often). Tbh I don't really know how loud, cause I play in VR with closed headphones over, but I feel the click through the wheel. I don't really want to have to spend another 100 dollars (+shipping) for a QR1, what are my options ?

  • Michael DuranMichael Duran Member
    edited August 2021

    I have identified the clicking source, it is the key-slot on the hub clicking against the sides of the groove in the output shaft of the CSL DD, the 8nm torque is great enough to cause the hub to shift left and right in the slot suddenly and "click" as it contacts the sides of the groove, you can prove this by holding on to the end of the hub at the shaft while turning, you will actually feel it move back and forth. I fear that this will eventually break the pins that connect the hub to the motor base. I cut a small 1/4" strip of heavy electrical tape and placed it in the groove of the shaft to take up the sloppy fit, and it actually made my clicking go away, the tape was strong enough to hold through wheel changes. this is a VERY temporary solution and the sloppy fit of the output shaft to the hub is something that I didn't expect from a company like FANATEC. I hope they address this issue without making the consumer pay for it with a costly replacement or upgrade.

  • Update with pictures.

    the little strip of heavy electrical tape takes up enough of the "sloppy fit" to stop the clicking and movement on the output shaft. if you look closely to the hub interior keyway, it is tapered on the sides allowing it to move in the more "squared off" channel in the shaft. the tape has stood up to hours of hard driving in rally and off road conditions, and survived many wheel changes,

    as you can see, I have 5 of the CSL-UH setups and two wheels with the QR1 aluminum, both systems still fit, and have no movement that I can detect now, I know this is a temporary fix, but for now it allows me to use the CSL DD at full 8Nm power without risking the pins in the hub. FANATEC has been notified, and wants a video of the issue.. by now a video is moot, the problem is painfully obvious. and I fear the "fix" will be expensive.

  • Michael DuranMichael Duran Member
    edited August 2021

    Hopefully using tape in the groove will not violate or invalidate the warranty of the base or hubs, it is after all an issue with both systems, that only showed up when they were paired together after the release of the CSL DD, this never happened with my CS v2.5, or with the 5Nm power pack on the CSL DD, this is probably due to the slightly less torque, or maybe because the CSL DD is so much smoother and vibration free, that it is now noticeable at the 8Nm level.

    it's going to be interesting to see how this plays out..

  • I just ordered a QR1 for my McLaren GT3 V2, which I have been meaning to do anyway. I was going to wait until the QR2 is released but figured, what the heck. Let's get this done. lol


  • Is that what they have said? If so it's not really a good solution though is it? Ahh we messed up a little in production, but if you spend another £100 on this shiny part, it will sort it out...........hopefully :/

  • New QR quick release solved my problem. To bad you have to pay for it

  • Hi,

    I have also noticed I am having the same issue and tried the tape thing which worked for a while but it is now starting to do the same thing.

    Just wondering if it is worth opening a ticket with support?

    Does anyone have any further info on if fanatec are going to do anything to rectify the issue? I've already spent considerable money on the DD with boost kit, table clamp and McLaren wheel without having to buy a metal QR just because the tolerances in manufacturing are off!

    Thanks

  • After finding out the same. Mine appears to get getting worse.

  • edited November 2021

    I am using some electrical tape to minimize the gap in the QR1 adapter. I found out that solution myself, but i see that this is used by many now. I have talked to support, even sent them pictures of the problem and the solution. They informed me that they will escalate the problem to the engineers , but what this will lead to is a mystery. They were quite grateful for the "temporary solution" but i hope they will be kind enough to replace / upgrade that QR system to all that own it. If there were even slight doubts that this can be a problem, i would go straight to the metal one....

  • Im brand new to Fanatec products and I have exactly the same issue with the WRC wheel. From what I have read here I did the same with a small amount of masking tape which as others said solved it. I have raised a ticket but no mention from them about the identical issues of others. They have said for me to RMA (not sure wheel, base or both) replied and just wait and see. I have suggested that they send me a new QR rather than me send stuff back and render me unable to use my wheel I waited so long for!

  • Well Fanatec agreed without issue to inspect both base and wheel but in the meantime I did further testing to be 100% sure before going through the step of returning everything as my free time is limited and tbh wasn't keen on doing anyway. I got chance to use the wheel after work yesterday without the slither of tape and after 2-3hrs there was no issue. I used multiple sims and tracks but could not replicate it! I can only think that it may have either been a particular FFB setting which highlighted the issue which I have since tweaked unknowingly or I actually failed to fit the wheel correctly 🤦‍♂️ either way I'm going to hold off with the return for now and just see how it goes. I may be new to Fanatec products but been sim racing for a few years on various types of wheel bases and there was definitely some level of play between the base and QR as described in this post... fingers crossed it was just my mistake.

  • TL:DR: my QR was replaced via RMA and that fixed the issue for me.


    I wanted to share my experience, in the hopes that it'll help others. I was also having the same issue, which was intermittent at first, so I thought I was imagining it. But the click kept getting more frequent. So thank you Mats and Michael, your comments really helped.


    I am new to Fanatec, with a CSL DD and McLaren GT3 rim, and the 8nm boost kit. After contacting customer support, and initially being told that a bit of noise is to be expected at high torque rates, they eventually agreed to an RMA. There was no detailed diagnosis, but the Simplified QR was replaced, and this has fixed the issue for me. I never tried the tape trick as I didn't have tape of the appropriate thickness on hand.

    There is definitely a difference in how the QR closes around the shaft. I have been extremely careful not to overtighten the QR, and only going past the white line by about a mm on the first QR. After getting the RMA number, as an experiment I tried but couldn't close the QR all the way to the stop, and even then I was still getting the click, but less frequently. The new QR hits the stop right after covering up the white line, and I have not felt the click even after about 3 hrs of driving.

    A bit dissapointed that this was an issue, but they resolved it for me, so I'm happy overall.

  • @Hiromasa Fukuda, with an RMA request, Fanatec simply replaced the "Simplified QR" with another "Simplified QR"? That's it, that's all?

  • I got my setup two weeks ago - DSL DD with McLaren GT3 rim.

    After a week I started to feel what you all are describing. In the beginning just sometimes, but now I can't finish one lap without feeling it (and I am only using 85% FFB). Very disappointed.

    I have just opened a support ticket. Hopefully they will exchange the QR1 Lite.

    But a question - has any of you bought the QR1 Wheel-Side? (the one made from ALU). From what I can read it would fit as well and I like that it is made from ALU instead of hard plastic. Seems like a more robust solution.

  • My QR1 Lite that came with my McLaren GT3 V3 has the same exact click-clack ssue as described here. Fanatec will want a video produced for the issue to RMA the part but I feel this won't likely be possible to video as the issue is slight and only occurs under stress on my CSL DD if turned up to 75% force levels or higher. If I run it at 70% it is not noticeable at all. There is a low to medium level click-clack feel that occurs only during medium stressful driving and I doubt it is something that can be heard or caught on video. For instance if I set my force to 75% it is low-medium noticeable, if I set to 85% it is even more noticeable of a click-clack, so medium to high, at the same point in turning the wheel in corners. For a track such as Laguna Seca in a GT3 car in AMS2, with my CSL DD at 75% force the problem occurs 6 times per lap, never in a slow speed corner such as the last left turn that leads to the straight. I don't want to jeopardize my CSL DD or McLaren warranty by using a DIY method on the QR1 Lite if at all possible. I have tested my friends McLaren GT3 that he bought new from Fanatec in November 2021 and it tightens further than my QR1 Lite on my CSL DD shaft, which I suspect fixed the issue and it has zero issues with my base and my McLaren GT3 V2 wheel so I know that the issue is with the design of my QR1 Lite versus my friends newer one; this is a design issue and not an issue in QA'ing the part.

    I want them to fix or replace my QR1 Lite so that I get the revised model that doesn't click-clack. Any suggestions on how to handle the RMA?

  • Note: The issue was never felt when using the same QR1 Lite on my McLaren GT3 V2 on my CSL DD with the standard 5nm power supply, only with the 8nm power supply (Boost Kit 180).

  • @Martin Fleurant Yes, they replaced the Simplified QR with another one. Comparing the before/after, the original was clearly not working properly, so the replacement was all that was needed. If you're asking if they didn't exchange it for the metal QR, then no, they did not.


    @Jesper Ringsten It looks like getting the metal QR has also fixed the issue for some people. Personally, I'm waiting for the QR2 to come out and then plan to get the CS RS wheel with the QR2, and another QR2 to swap out on the McLaren.


    @Jon Ferraez yeah, I took a video and sent it in when I opened a ticket, but the click was indistinguishable from the general creaking on my rig. This issue is definitely felt more than heard.

  • Thanks Hiromasa Fukuda, I will request an RMA.

    In my case, since I always play with headphones, I don't hear the "clonck" but I can feel it frequently in the steering column.

  • I got a reply from Fanatec yesterday.

    No questions asked. They understood my problem and offered to send me a new QR1 right away. Great support!

    @Hiromasa Fukuda - I was thinking of buying the metal QR, but then I changed my mind. My setup is only two weeks old, so it can't be right that I have to buy extra stuff now. But I will for sure be keeping an eye on the QR2 when it is out.

    I'll be back here ones I have tested the new QR1 for a week and let you know if it fixed my problem.

  • Got the new QR1 and sadly only needed one day, then I had the same problem again.

    I have talked to support and they have told me it is ok to try the tape trick mentioned above. It will not violate the warranty (have it written).

  • Jon FerraezJon Ferraez Member
    edited December 2021

    In response to my RMA request I was only offered a 30% discount on a QR1 metal. I feel like that is a copout. That would still cost me near $100 after shipping and tax to get a working quick release. I asked them for a replacement for the faulty QR-1 Lite part again in my reply. When I bought this wheel with my CSL DD wheel base it listed the base as fully compatible with the McLaren GT3 V2 with QR-1 Lite, and I know the newer revised QR-1 Lite that my friend owns does work perfect on my own CSL DD 8nm with my same wheel. This seems like just a money grab and a bit of bait and switch going on here. I just want them to fix the original issue and they know about this forum post where it is obvious there is a defect in some revisions of the QR-1 Lite part when utilized on the CSL DD 8nm.

    On Sun, Dec 26, 2021, 7:18 AM Fanatec Support <[email protected]> wrote:

    Hello Jon,

    Thank you for contacting us. The specific pairing of the base-side QR for Podium wheel bases and the QR1 Lite Wheel-Side can, in some circumstances, allow some play which cold cause this click clack feeling.

    This does not occur when using the QR1 Wheel-Side (metal version) and therefore it is the recommended QR for use with Podium bases. If you are not satisfied with the performance of the QR1 Lite, we can offer you a 30 % discount for the QR1 Wheel-Side (metal version).

    Please let us know if you want to accept this offer, then we will initiate the payment procedure.


    Best regards / Freundliche Grüße

    (Fanatec Support Team)

  • Hi,

     I have the same problem with the base CSL DD and the McLaren steering wheel. Can you pass a photo to see how you have put the tape? I can't see Michael's pictures.


    Only 2 days and problems... :-(

  • Can someone post a pic of the tape trick. The links at the top don't work.

    Many thanks

  • 2 stripes of electrical tape works for my Formula Carbon but it could be differ from wheel to wheel.

  • Scott CoffeyScott Coffey Member
    edited January 2022

    Same problem with CSL DD and Porsche 918 wheel. Contacted support and they want a video of the problem, but I don't know how I'm supposed to send a video of the wheel slipping since it's impossible to see visually. I hate the thought of putting sticky tape on my brand new kit. :(

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