CSL DD - graining feel and DPR value

Guys, weird thing happened with the feeling of my CSL DD. It was middle of the race in ACC (something like 30 minutes, and I had 40 mins of practice/quali before) when the base started to feel... hard to describe it. Like if it was constant small buzzer or tiny vibrator. Did not hear anything weird but the feel was present in the wheel. Like if I was fighting against small force which oscilates with high frequency. Thought it was graining of my tyres, but I drove on that set after the race and the feeling was completely gone. Same track, same setup, same tyres.

The feeling is completely gone now again.

I am of course not mentioning the jolts which happen every 5th minute or something. Got used to them.

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Someone adviced me to set DPR to 0. I was curious about what does this do as I saw it being left at 100 everywhere. To my surprise, ACC recommended settings have it at 50 now. I am 100% sure it was 100 before.

Comments

  • Which Jolts?!

    The CSL DD does not suffer from the Jolt issue of Podium DDs.

    If you have Jolts on a CSL DD you should contact the support. Something seems to be not right with your base then, especially also looking at the grainy Feeling after some time. I guess the magnets might be damaged or so.

  • It does. Everyone I know with the base has them. They happen here and there.... like every 5th minute. We tried to elaborate the cause and it looks like it happens under heavy constant FFB... like in longer corners. Maybe it is the Peak? And it feels like a kick into the wheel. I also found another thing which maybe pancake users do not register but in VR it is pretty noticeable. When the jolt happens the steering gets straight for a milisecond. The virtual wheel just jumps to center and back to position. Steering is not affected with that, all works, no disconnection of the device.

  • Ehh... I've never experienced these jolts that you describe. I've used my CSL DD for several hours a day, nearly every day for over a month now.

    Are you using the boost kit? I have the standard 5nm. Maybe that has something to do with it?

  • Aye, boost kit.

  • Oh, I found a guy who seems to have similar problem. What also attracted my eyes there is "gets barely over warm during stress tests". My base surely is warm. Not scorching hot, but a cat would like it.

    https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/23853/cls-dd-becomes-coggy#latest

  • Regarding the Disconnects it's more a, well, Disconnect which is caused by too much play in the QR or the QR not fully tightened so the USB-C Slips out.

    You should contact the support as this is absolutely not normal.

  • Viktor JanebaViktor Janeba Member
    edited October 2021

    There is absolutely no physical play in the QR... I keep maintaining it. But one thing, and I had it with my previous CSW 2.5 too. People keep claiming the securing radial bolt it not necessary (I have been using it since I got into F ecosystem). But without the bolt (or when it gets loose) my wheels have quite a play.


    Well, will try experimenting with wheels first before I raise a ticket. My main is 911 GT3 R and I read before on full fat DDs EBM has some issues with jolting with ITM being anywhere but on default page. I have that thing turned completely off because I do not need it in VR.

    I also have a F V2 and round rally Sparco on UH, will sacrifice some races to try if other wheels have the same issue.

  • edited October 2021

    The Podium DD Jolts only happen when using ITM oder FFB Analysis screens of the DD itself. Doesnt matter if you use ITM on the BME. There are no Jolts also on Podium DD when you use the default FANATEC screen on the DD OLED and ITM on the BME.

    As the CSL DD Doesnt have a Display, it also doesnt have this Kind of Jolts.

    Your "Jolt" is a disconnection, indicated by the virtual steering wheel being centered in a turn for a split second as you say.

    That has nothing to do with a Jolt, it's just a Disconnection, maybe USB related, maybe something else. But it's not normal. But still has nothing to do with the Podium DD Jolts so ca long it Jolt is very misleading here.

  • Viktor JanebaViktor Janeba Member
    edited October 2021

    I know about 3 people from my ACC racing community who have exactly the same problem with jolts. They do not register the virtual wheel going straight because they drive without rendered wheels, but they are experiencing the same kicks like I do. They are not periodical, they are quite rare, not like they are omnipresent, but they happen to them too.

    Also, the disconnection. I had troubles with disconnecting and immediately reconnecting F gear before (it was on a different PC and AMD ports just went overloaded) and it was always accompanied with classic windows "tu du" disconnecting sound + the wheel was completely lost in sims. But this has no such effect. No sound and the games keep registering the inputs.

    By the way, the jolts I am describing work both way (my friends mentioned above share the same experience): it is a kick or a brief ffb loss (like if fronts went full understeer slip).

  • Viktor JanebaViktor Janeba Member
    edited October 2021

    OK, I have an update on this.

    I realized leaving encoders on "constant" as it is recommended for ACC started to misbehave badly within the game (out of the game it works perfectly). It missed switching, went up when I was turning it down etc. So I went to "pulse" instead (realized other guys from my community use Pulse too) and everything has been flawless since then. No jolts, no graining, just awesome smooth FFB.

    I wonder if sending nonstop signals from both encoders somehow messes up with the FFB now, or something.

  • Hi there.


    I think your problem is very similar to mine. I sent the CSL DD and they exchanged it for another. This new one works perfect.


    They told me in the forum that it could be due to heat, and I discarded it because I always have a fan next to me that also faces the base, but before sending it to the technical service, I tried it one last time and when it started to fail I wrote down the fan directly to the base; After 3 minutes the problem disappeared, I removed the fan again, and it reappeared. I think it would be a heat dissipation problem (or maybe not ... who knows?) I recommend you contact the technical service.

  • Aye, I read your problem, it indeed looks similar.

    But I got no single issue after changing encoders from "constant". No jolt, no graining. As mysterious as it sounds, but I am totally happy now.

  • Viktor JanebaViktor Janeba Member
    edited October 2021

    And jolts are back. And another guy from my ACC community confirmed he is getting them too, that makes it 5 people I know with the same problem.

    I am afraid there is really something wrong there.

  • Add me to the list that gets these jolts on the CSL DD with the McLaren V2 in ACC. Although I would describe them more as a clunk. No pattern to them seemingly and quite a rare occurrence, but definitely happen at least once during a race.

    Whether it’s due to clipping or not I don’t know. I have gain in game set to 70. Only time I can guarantee it’s clipping on the FFB bar in game is the long fast corner at the bottom of the hill at Kyalami, but it’s so brief I never even feel any loss of any FFB in the wheel. It certainly doesn’t clunk.

    So yeah, a difficult issue to diagnose properly. I only really play ACC. Little of AMS2 but never experienced a clunk in the short amount of time I’ve spent in that game.

  • Viktor JanebaViktor Janeba Member
    edited October 2021

    I have just submitted a ticket. There is clearly something wrong with my base.

    After 20 minutes in ACC jolts become massive kicks, the grinding buzzing feel is permanent and the base is very warm on touch.

    When I let the base cool down, it disappears (jolts remain).

  • Hi guys - so I'm in the same boat now, and will have to raise a ticket - I get the Jolts every so often, but the vibration is driving me nuts, It was just every so often as well, but now it's constant from when i turn it on, as soon as i leave the pits.

    Urgh what a pain - and the Mclaren QR Lite doesn't fit properly; not exactly a great start for the CSL DD

  • Unfortunately, I have a jolts to. Not so frequent, but at least once a day. It feels like I hit a stone or a hole, and you can see whole car shakes. After that, I feel that FFB is somehow weaker. I just had one on Imola in first left part of that fast chicane.

  • I have the same with my CSL DD + BK. The kick happens very very rarely (once per couple of sessions) but it only happens in ACC (has not happend once in 10h+ in AC) and it only happens mid turn

  • Truls SolbergTruls Solberg Member
    edited December 2021

    I have the same jolts/clunks, only that for me, after the clunk the "steering angle" resets from whatever I was on, to 540 degrees positive, which in return makes the car suddenly steer directly right and of the track, its undrivable. It happens everytime there is a constant load on the tyres in ACC, and it happens so often that I cant almost get out of pits even... Really dissapointed with this after waiting all this time, not the christmas present I wanted, but it also seems like a faulty sensor or bad firmware to me... Hopefully they will fix this asap


    PS. I would also like to add that as long as the wheelbase is in use and turned on, my mic(Antlion 4 or something) and headset(Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro) get a high pitch tone in them for the duration of the wheelbase being on. These audio devices is run through a GoXLR soundboard and it seems to be that this wheelbase is putting out an extreme amount of EMI interference or something...

  • Found the problem! It's not over heating. Nothing wrong with it at all. So I just got my cls gtddpro and after 15 mins of play on ps5 .I got the grainy/ high Current feeling . I've done everything no Results. For days . So I found this Article like every one else. And was like damn I got to send it back. But no this morning I changed the usb from the back of the ps5 to the front and I've played for hours and it's fine no more grainy feeling. I don't know what Kind of usb port the PS5 has in front Maybe look it up for you PC guys. If you have a older PC you You will have to upgrade the usb. To confirm this is it. I switched back to the back of the PS5 of because my Steel series headphones has a weird dongle That blocks my front USB . And to no Avail It started again so it's A USB problem. I hope this helps..... I would like to know has anybody anybody went from USB C to USB C On the CSL?

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