Turn off NFR and then launch game, there is a bug in latest drivers. Then tune in-game FFB and smoothing, some cars need a lot of smoothing. For example for Formula Pro I use 85% in-game FFB and 11 smoothing
Hello I just got the game with csl DD the compatibility mode (yellowish orange light ) is not recommended because in some car with high torque like the tautus it remove all the ffb
I have a DD2 and R300 wheel and always thought RFactor2 was one of the best games. Last night I upgraded to Windows 11 and everything was fine. I've used the recommended settings SEN set to Auto, with a couple of minor changes. Tonight I decided to go back into settings in RFactor2 and was reading the help for Steering Settings. I've always had Max Wheel Angle Mode set to Custom because Automatic fails and I've had Default max wheel angle set to 1440. While reading the help I figured if Max Wheel Angle Mode set to Automatic is failing, and the max wheel angle is 1440 why not change it in Fanalab from Auto to 1440?
Leaving the starting line for the first time after changing the setting and restarting the game, I race mostly Bridgehampton with a Camaro, I could feel the difference. I don't think it's my imagination because my lap times have also improved a couple of seconds. Just handles better and I can feel more stuff on the track.
Any idea what happened? The only thing I can figure it since RFactor 2 can set the wheel angle, and Automatic Max Wheel Angle Mode failed. Setting both RFactor 2 and Fanalab to 1440 allows RFactor 2 to set the wheel angle correctly for the car. If that makes any sense. The other weird thing is that it started a couple of versions of beta drivers ago and continued with 447. It didn't always do this. I would hit certain spots on the track and it would be like I hit a sheet of ice and the car would slide off the track, I had zero control. That seems to have stopped since I changed Sen to 1440.
As an FYI: I had no issues after upgrading to windows 11. Fanatec Control Panel didn't detect any devices which wasn't unexpected, a driver repair and reboot fixed that.
There is now a force feedback strength setting in-game not covered by the recommended settings and the CSL DD 8nm feels way too strong on the curbs with these settings.
I believe it needs an update. Setting the in-game strength to 45% seems in the right ballpark in the meantime.
I would like to buy rfactor 2 but reading above I notice that the csl gt dd has compatibility problems… can someone tell me if things have improved or if in pc mode (red led) something improves thank you very much if anyone replies
I have a CSL DD 8Nm and went back into rF2 today after nearly a year of not playing. I'm still using driver v439, and things felt pretty good with the recommended settings listed here. I used PC (red) mode on the base, and used the hardware setup wizard to assign the basic controls. I wasn't able to find per-car FFB in the new menus, I'm hoping that I just wasn't looking in the right place.
I drove the Honda Civic BTCC around Oulton Park for about 30 minutes, and like I said, it felt mostly pretty good. Maybe the wheel was a bit light around center, and very heavy at low speeds and hard steering angles, such as pulling out of the garage and also going through tight hairpins. I'd imagine this can be dialed out with some fine tuning.
I wouldn't be worried about compatibility issues with your CSL DD... it clearly is compatible. I think the main thing is that there are so many settings both on the wheel and in-game that can determine whether or not things feel "good" to you... especially since FFB is so subjective.
Additionally, there seems to be a stuck vibration / rumble bug for me, using my v3 inverted w/ CSL DD. In the pre-race event screen (only in race, not in qualifying or practice), the accelerator pedal rumble motor goes Full Blast, which can be fixed by disable the rev limiter vibration setting in Fanalab. It seems this incorrectly triggers the vibration motor for some reason.
Disabling NFR fixed some horrible snappy FFB on the DD1 with driver 439 (apparently still not fixed almost two years since 429 was released!). Also mind that the default settings on Fanalab are incorrect and DPR is set to 100% instead of off.
Tried these settings and also a few different ones from YouTube, along with tinkering myself. I feel like I must be doing something wrong as it's supposed to have great FFB but I've found it awful - undrivable. I can't catch a slide (see it happen but no FFB to suggest it is).
I have no problems with FFB in AC (and ACC) and iRacing + a bunch of other non-sim/simcade, e.g. F1 23, so I can only put it down to rFactor 2 as the issue.
I have tweaked them a bit to my own liking (so far), as per the screenshots. Hopefully this helps someone.
In-game settings. I adjust the car specific multiplier down if I feel there is clipping, but a general setting of 70% feels good. I also added 1 to smoothing as it felt a bit grainy/noisy. Might even add more.
Fanalab settings. Comparing to Ermz, I think it was damper settings ruining everything. Perhaps there have been FFB changes since the video...
I did default to 1080 orginally. And the forum post suggested 1440 which I thought was odd.
So I ran the calibration within rFactor2 and it came up with the 1180 figure so I matched it in Fanalab.
Ultimately I guess it doesn't make much difference so long as it matches between game and Fanalab. I might change it to 1080 tho as it doesn't sound right. 🙂 I have AC and ACC both set at 1080.
I have tried multiple times to set up my CSL DD wheel with rFactor 2, including the default settings. I have even reinstalled the game. (Note I have no issues with any other sim).
I go through the setup wizard to configure the wheel. Yet when I get in any car the steering angle fails to match. It severely under-steers. If I am at 90 degrees left on the real wheel, the in-car is about 20-30 degrees.
In the F4 car, I have to do a 3-point turn to get out of the pit tent!
Comments
Smoothing. I'm having trouble figuring out which works best, im still getting violent oscillation going down the straights of monza.
Turn off NFR and then launch game, there is a bug in latest drivers. Then tune in-game FFB and smoothing, some cars need a lot of smoothing. For example for Formula Pro I use 85% in-game FFB and 11 smoothing
Hi, i have a problem since i updated wheel base CSW v2.0 driver 415 or 429 i think to last driver 439 this week-end
i am lost with the new interface.
and also update of wheel firmware 689 (formula Black) (don't remember old version of FW)
now, i don't have acces to all settings menus only "Sen" and "FF
and only one config possible instead of S_1, S_2, S_3, ......
i want to put my own settings but impossible
is it possible to get it back with old driver ?
ClubSport Wheel Base V2
Tuning Menu Settings:
SEN AUT
FF
SHO
ABS
DRI
FOR
SPR
DPR
BRF
So is the consensus to use linear FFB vs peak? This is the only case that I’ve ever seen it recommended
all the settings are set with SEN Auto
but what value in the Steering Wheel Maximum Rotation Default in the rf2 controler page ?
I tried 900 for example but wheel rotation on screen not syncing with all cars !
Hi Fanatec team,
Will there be new rF2 recommended settings for the new DD1&2 (443) drivers?
Please keep up the great work.
Thanks.
do they actually update the recommended settings after updates of the games or the driver?
Hello I just got the game with csl DD the compatibility mode (yellowish orange light ) is not recommended because in some car with high torque like the tautus it remove all the ffb
I have a DD2 and R300 wheel and always thought RFactor2 was one of the best games. Last night I upgraded to Windows 11 and everything was fine. I've used the recommended settings SEN set to Auto, with a couple of minor changes. Tonight I decided to go back into settings in RFactor2 and was reading the help for Steering Settings. I've always had Max Wheel Angle Mode set to Custom because Automatic fails and I've had Default max wheel angle set to 1440. While reading the help I figured if Max Wheel Angle Mode set to Automatic is failing, and the max wheel angle is 1440 why not change it in Fanalab from Auto to 1440?
Leaving the starting line for the first time after changing the setting and restarting the game, I race mostly Bridgehampton with a Camaro, I could feel the difference. I don't think it's my imagination because my lap times have also improved a couple of seconds. Just handles better and I can feel more stuff on the track.
Any idea what happened? The only thing I can figure it since RFactor 2 can set the wheel angle, and Automatic Max Wheel Angle Mode failed. Setting both RFactor 2 and Fanalab to 1440 allows RFactor 2 to set the wheel angle correctly for the car. If that makes any sense. The other weird thing is that it started a couple of versions of beta drivers ago and continued with 447. It didn't always do this. I would hit certain spots on the track and it would be like I hit a sheet of ice and the car would slide off the track, I had zero control. That seems to have stopped since I changed Sen to 1440.
As an FYI: I had no issues after upgrading to windows 11. Fanatec Control Panel didn't detect any devices which wasn't unexpected, a driver repair and reboot fixed that.
There is now a force feedback strength setting in-game not covered by the recommended settings and the CSL DD 8nm feels way too strong on the curbs with these settings.
I believe it needs an update. Setting the in-game strength to 45% seems in the right ballpark in the meantime.
Hello there, i have podium quick releaase with the magnetic shifts the more expensive ones and cannot set them up to shift gears. any ideas please
I'm having the same issues - must be something simple but I'm struggling!
I would like to buy rfactor 2 but reading above I notice that the csl gt dd has compatibility problems… can someone tell me if things have improved or if in pc mode (red led) something improves thank you very much if anyone replies
I have a CSL DD 8Nm and went back into rF2 today after nearly a year of not playing. I'm still using driver v439, and things felt pretty good with the recommended settings listed here. I used PC (red) mode on the base, and used the hardware setup wizard to assign the basic controls. I wasn't able to find per-car FFB in the new menus, I'm hoping that I just wasn't looking in the right place.
I drove the Honda Civic BTCC around Oulton Park for about 30 minutes, and like I said, it felt mostly pretty good. Maybe the wheel was a bit light around center, and very heavy at low speeds and hard steering angles, such as pulling out of the garage and also going through tight hairpins. I'd imagine this can be dialed out with some fine tuning.
I wouldn't be worried about compatibility issues with your CSL DD... it clearly is compatible. I think the main thing is that there are so many settings both on the wheel and in-game that can determine whether or not things feel "good" to you... especially since FFB is so subjective.
for anyone experiencing grainy FFB after a certain amount of time, try turning the DPR setting in your fanalab software or wheel to zero.
Additionally, there seems to be a stuck vibration / rumble bug for me, using my v3 inverted w/ CSL DD. In the pre-race event screen (only in race, not in qualifying or practice), the accelerator pedal rumble motor goes Full Blast, which can be fixed by disable the rev limiter vibration setting in Fanalab. It seems this incorrectly triggers the vibration motor for some reason.
The recommended CSL DD settings are terrible!!
Anyone have a solution for this?
I tried both PC and compatibility mode.
Disabling NFR fixed some horrible snappy FFB on the DD1 with driver 439 (apparently still not fixed almost two years since 429 was released!). Also mind that the default settings on Fanalab are incorrect and DPR is set to 100% instead of off.
I've given up...
Tried these settings and also a few different ones from YouTube, along with tinkering myself. I feel like I must be doing something wrong as it's supposed to have great FFB but I've found it awful - undrivable. I can't catch a slide (see it happen but no FFB to suggest it is).
I have no problems with FFB in AC (and ACC) and iRacing + a bunch of other non-sim/simcade, e.g. F1 23, so I can only put it down to rFactor 2 as the issue.
To be clear, I'm using Fanatec CSL DD 8nm with McLaren V2 rim.
I've used Ermz settings for the sims I play (with minor tweaks): https://youtu.be/ksQ0PqvZBlM?si=GnQBNqZ9kCHYph8Q. They didn't seem to work well for me in rFactor2 tho.
I've just tried some settings from another forum post and everything feels much better and more drivable now! https://forum.studio-397.com/index.php?threads/csl-dd-gt-dd-pro-ffb-settings.72751/page-2#post-1132629
I have tweaked them a bit to my own liking (so far), as per the screenshots. Hopefully this helps someone.
In-game settings. I adjust the car specific multiplier down if I feel there is clipping, but a general setting of 70% feels good. I also added 1 to smoothing as it felt a bit grainy/noisy. Might even add more.
Fanalab settings. Comparing to Ermz, I think it was damper settings ruining everything. Perhaps there have been FFB changes since the video...
@Stefan Mortimer - I'm curious why you have SEN set to 1180 rather than 1080...?
I did default to 1080 orginally. And the forum post suggested 1440 which I thought was odd.
So I ran the calibration within rFactor2 and it came up with the 1180 figure so I matched it in Fanalab.
Ultimately I guess it doesn't make much difference so long as it matches between game and Fanalab. I might change it to 1080 tho as it doesn't sound right. 🙂 I have AC and ACC both set at 1080.
I've changed it to 1080 now as it makes more sense... I should have thought about it at the time.
Anyway, still feels good. Confident that any mess-ups are my fault now, rather than dodgy controls/feedback. 🙄
I have tried multiple times to set up my CSL DD wheel with rFactor 2, including the default settings. I have even reinstalled the game. (Note I have no issues with any other sim).
I go through the setup wizard to configure the wheel. Yet when I get in any car the steering angle fails to match. It severely under-steers. If I am at 90 degrees left on the real wheel, the in-car is about 20-30 degrees.
In the F4 car, I have to do a 3-point turn to get out of the pit tent!