CSL DD (or Formula V2) randomly disconnecting

I have a CSL DD combined with a Formula V2, the wheel randomly disconnects mid-game.

about once every half an hour, first I am unable to switch gear (buttons stop working) and after a while the feedback also cuts out.

i can reset the issue by inclicking the V2 from the base and put it back on. Needless to say I am unable to do races atm. Happening on both ACC and Raceroom.

never had this issue before with this combination,

things I tried so far:

  • Different usb port
  • installing ferrid beads
  • tightening the plastic cap on the base
  • reinstalled firmware
  • turning off usb power saving


dont really know what else, contacted support but that will take a while and maybe I need to ship my base and wheel which results in me having to forfeit my league races.


anyone experienced anything similar and found a solution apart from the things I tried?

Comments

  • Tnx, already tried that. Tightened it. But my shaft wasn’t loose or wasn’t moved like people with this issue unfortunately

  • If you have used ferrite cores you have thought about EMI.

    It could be so. For EMI you need 2 elements, the jammer, and an electric motor seems perfect for the role, and the one who suffers the disturbance.

    You won't be able to do much on the first subject, focus on the second.

    I offer you two solutions of € 20. A PCI Express card with USB ports. I installed one and the problems disappeared.

    USB isolator. It is a small external card, a kind of USB key, which separates the connection cable from the port. Never tried, but I have read that it works very well for EMI problems.

    There is a famous company that ships products all over the world and has truly elastic return policies. Trying will cost little and will be a reimbursable expense. I recommend the first solution, because I checked it myself and it worked for me.

  • Tnx for the answer,

    to be honest I have no idea if it is EMI related but tried about all the things I could find online.

    never had issues before and nothing really changed in my setup. Could that just occur out of nowhere?

  • Failures come out of nowhere.

    If it was the electrical connection between wheelbase and wheel you should hear the Windows sound of USB disconnect. There is a USB Type C connection inside the hub of the Wheelbase. If you hear that sound, then it is a physical disconnect.

    If you don't hear that sound, when the disconnection happens, try to exit the game, and open the Fanatec driver, always with the steering wheel engaged. Do you see the steering wheel on the panel? Or do you only see the wheelbase? If you see both the wheelbase and the steering wheel, I believe it is not a physical disconnect.

  • Thank you, I don’t hear the usb disconnect sound.

    will check next time if the wheel is still in fanalab.

    so far I have been resetting the issue midgame immediately by taking the wheel off and putting it back on. This solves it, I can still use it for practice now, but not races as I might potentially crash out during this proces.

  • edited June 2022

    I have the CSL DD with the McLaren GT3 V2 and QR Lite. I started experiencing these exact symptoms in both iRacing and ACC where the buttons would become unresponsive for no apparent reason.

    The solution for me seems to have been to "tape mod" the shaft of the CSL DD with some electrical tape. This fix is normally what people do to stop the knocking you can get with quick change of direction caused by the QR slipping on the shaft, but I guess in my (and possibly your) case the slipping is bad enough that it's causing poor contact between the pins and the socket.

    I've done about 30 hours of driving in the past 3 weeks since doing this, including a 24h enduro, and the issue hasn't occurred since.

  • Hi James.

    I have this issue also but on the Clubsport v2.5 with the McLaren GT3 V2 Wheel.

    I can see that you have found a temp solution, what is the purpose of the Electrical tape to prevent slipping of what. Is there a long term solution, can the wheel be bolted to the base as opposed to the quick release.

  • Issue was gone for a bit but back now, will try this solution with the electrical tape as I agree it looks like an issue with V2 moving a bit which might cause it.

    very late response, but tnx for this!

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