!!!!!! DO NOT BUY CSL DD

Hi everyone,


I am tired of going back and forth with this subject so I might just provide my experience with the CSL DD with everyone.

I bought my CSL DD 1 year ago and after 1 month it started giving me problems:

-Loss of FFB strength mid race (At any game)

-Disconnects

-Janky software that suddenly remembers to reset everything

-Janky drivers that decide to sometimes not connect the wheel and needs a PC full restart


NOTE - I AM NOT ASKING FOR SOLUTIONS AS I HAVE TRIED EVERYTHING IN THE BOOK , PROVIDED BY FANATEC AND USERS OF THE SAME WHEEL AND SIMILAR WHEELS.


I strongly advise you to not buy the CSL DD, instead just go for competitors as you will probably have a better product like I had, before changing to Fanatec.


Take this as you like, i dont care, it is my experience and how I've been treated by Fanatec deserves a post like this. I actually think its very soft.


Fanatec's support is one of the worse I've seen in any tech company so I'm not surprised things like these keep happening and nothing happens.


Goodbye everyone 👋

Comments

  • I understand you, I had the exact same experience. Fanatec customer service is bad, it seems like they don't know well how the peripherals they make and sell work. They just request an RMA, and if they can't reproduce the problem they return the same product, with no solutions provided. The experience was frustrating. It's probably the worst company in the world, and I'm Italian, I'm quite used to inefficiency. Luckily I found the solution on this forum.

    I hope it helps, I think your problem is similar to mine. However, Fanatec should know more about the equipment it sells, and have a sort of database of problems and possible solutions.

    And by the way the forum sucks too, you can't post the link to the same page as them.

    https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/25344/csl-dd-mclaren-v2-in-game-controls-lock-up-recurring-issue

  • I feel OP's frustration. I was in a similar situation and was ready to throw my Fanatec kit in the trash until I started the post that Alessandro linked to above. Thanks to his help and that of others, they were able to walk me through some potential solutions which actually did wind up working in the end... saving my sanity AND saving me from having to deal with any more RMA shenanigans. Worth a look if you haven't already abandoned ship and gotten rid of your kit for that of another manufacturer.

  • edited May 2023

    I'm sorry both Alessandro and Gregg, but this is not what I experience. I dont know if you read my post but everything keeps working normally, I just lose FFB strength. Imagine you're driving and it suddenly goes from 8nm (because i have the boost kit) to 1nm, then on a straight maybe comes back for 1 second and on the next turn it goes again.

    Unless the fixes on that post work for this, it is not the same. If there is any fix for this please say so, otherwise I am no longer just going to try things praying it works. I am tired of this bullshit and this shitty ass company.

  • -Loss of FFB strength mid race (At any game)

    -Disconnects

    This can be caused by the hub being too loose and disconnecting the wheel from the base. But I guess Fanatec suggested you remove and re-insert the wheelbase hub. And that this has already been done, without solving anything.


    - Janky software that suddenly remembers to reset everything

    -Janky drivers that decide to sometimes not connect the wheel and needs a PC full restart.

    This can be caused by EMI, poor grounding, or irregular voltages.

  • Exactly, the janky software and drivers I can fix them easily and have done.

    The Loss of FFB, I have done everything I could for it and after some minutes of driving the FFB gets weak again.

    Thank you

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