Yesterday I upgraded to version 345 and firmware on the 662 steering wheel
Immediately after the update, I had a slider on the handbrake (please see the picture) - everything that I didn’t do - it didn’t help me, I tried several times to reinstall the Fanatek drivers and steering wheel firmware - there was always this problem with the handbrake ... I thought I needed to connect handbrake and I did it! But the handbrake does not work ... I connected in different ways ... To the base, to the pedals, directly through the USB (connector) - there was one result - the handbrake does not work !!!
I tried to flash it through YUSB (connector), but he does not see it ...
Then I returned to the old firmware 335 - connected to the steering wheel base and it worked right away! The slider in the picture disappeared and when I pulled the handbrake it appeared - it worked!
@Dmitry So what you say is that your handbrake does not work connected to your wheel base OR to the CS USB adapter with driver 345. But it works well with the very same firmwares on USB adapter and wheel base with driver 335? That sounds quite strange as the driver does not modify any inputs that way. Can you please contact support and send them a video of both drivers to make them aware and start research. And as Joseph said...please try manual calibration AND also Auto calibration. The screenshot shows a non calibrated handbrake in manual mode which needs min and max set manually.
This is an issue since a long time... But, why aren't you connecting the Pedals directly to the Base? If you connect them to the Base everything will work just fine, everything stays calibrated. And you get access to the brake force setting in the tuning menu which is not possible when they are connected by USB... Resolution is the same and you only need 1 USB cable. So to connect them to the Base only has positive aspects
I remember seeing a thing where it was a better refresh rate or something like that using USB directly. It's been a long time since I've changed it to that set up. I'll give it a try. I'll need to find that RJ12 cable...
This is an issue since a long time... But, why aren't you connecting the Pedals directly to the Base? If you connect them to the Base everything will work just fine, everything stays calibrated. And you get access to the brake force setting in the tuning menu which is not possible when they are connected by USB... Resolution is the same and you only need 1 USB cable. So to connect them to the Base only has positive aspects
I remember seeing a thing where it was a better refresh rate or something like that using USB directly. It's been a long time since I've changed it to that set up. I'll give it a try. I'll need to find that RJ12 cable...
That was never an issue with the v3 Pedals but only an issue with older Pedals like CSP v1 or v2. Resolution is exactly the same no matter if connected by USB or by RJ12
I would like to leave a suggestion...
For example you invite some friend or you have a kid and you want to let him play, but not on high torque cause it's dangerous, putting in and out the torque key will obviously cause problems soon or later, and in some cases it's hard to access the back of the base depending on the setup... So, why not include an option to deactivate it even if the tkey is inserted...
Yesterday I upgraded to version 345. In Driver Version 345 in setup is missing the function for the multiposition Switch for the McLaren Wheel.
So i can´t setup my Wheel in Game Automobilista. One of the two multipositon Switches is always on and so setup in game the pos from the switch to the function
In Driver Version 335 was the function to select what the MPS can to.
I would like to leave a suggestion...
For example you invite some friend or you have a kid and you want to let him play, but not on high torque cause it's dangerous, putting in and out the torque key will obviously cause problems soon or later, and in some cases it's hard to access the back of the base depending on the setup... So, why not include an option to deactivate it even if the tkey is inserted...
then the torque key would be irrelevant anyway if you simply can deactivate it?!
Yesterday I upgraded to version 345. In Driver Version 345 in setup is missing the function for the multiposition Switch for the McLaren Wheel.
So i can´t setup my Wheel in Game Automobilista. One of the two multipositon Switches is always on and so setup in game the pos from the switch to the function
In Driver Version 335 was the function to select what the MPS can to.
These function is missing in 345
I go back to version 335
Its not missing, that function was moved a long time ago into the Tuning Menu where you can find a new setting called MPS where you set the MPS to Constant, Pulse or Encoder. It wont come back to a future driver, so you can again uninstall the 335 and reinstall 345
I would like to leave a suggestion...
For example you invite some friend or you have a kid and you want to let him play, but not on high torque cause it's dangerous, putting in and out the torque key will obviously cause problems soon or later, and in some cases it's hard to access the back of the base depending on the setup... So, why not include an option to deactivate it even if the tkey is inserted...
then the torque key would be irrelevant anyway if you simply can deactivate it?!
I don't think so... You can remove it for safety if you're not parenting your children, but in most cases I think an option would work and be enough... But hey it was just a sugestion
I would like to leave a suggestion...
For example you invite some friend or you have a kid and you want to let him play, but not on high torque cause it's dangerous, putting in and out the torque key will obviously cause problems soon or later, and in some cases it's hard to access the back of the base depending on the setup... So, why not include an option to deactivate it even if the tkey is inserted...
I think this would be good to have a "child mode" - my 10 yr old son like to race, but the DD and even the CSL Elite is too strong on my settings for him, some sort of function to cut the torque would be a good addition.
Is it possible to add Auto off feature to the FW that We can set for 20min to give the wheel a Cool Down period before it shuts off... I Just finished playing motor temp is 41°c, Driver Temp is 51°c, Fan RPM 630 so I know its Not too Hot but i don't like shutting it off until the Motor is in the 30's and Driver in the Low 40's.... PS Great Job with the DD2!!! I been playing 4 to 5 hours and that's the steady temp and Fan Speed... I set On wheel Strength to keep Max NM output between 10 -> 12 that's plenty strong enough for Me FFB and Wheel Response Feels Great and the wheel always stays Cool... I'm very Happy with the DD2.
Is it possible to add Auto off feature to the FW that We can set for 20min to give the wheel a Cool Down period before it shuts off... I Just finished playing motor temp is 41°c, Driver Temp is 51°c, Fan RPM 630 so I know its Not too Hot but i don't like shutting it off until the Motor is in the 30's and Driver in the Low 40's.... PS Great Job with the DD2!!! I been playing 4 to 5 hours and that's the steady temp and Fan Speed... I set On wheel Strength to keep Max NM output between 10 -> 12 that's plenty strong enough for Me FFB and Wheel Response Feels Great and the wheel always stays Cool... I'm very Happy with the DD2.
You shouldn't bother about this low Temps at all and just turn the wheel off, on this Temps it doesn't need any cool down time. The Motor is designed to sustain up to 120°C and the Fan can go up to 4000 RPM. Your values are extremely low and you don't take any risk when you shut the Base off immediately. I would only wait if the fan ever reaches its second fan curve point with a bit over 1000rpm. In those case I would wait until it's back at its stock speed of around 600rpm, but when the fan never goes above its stock speed like in your case, it's 100% save and no cool down time is needed.
I wonder what the purpose is of the last tab with settings in the new driver.
I changed some settings on the wheel and the reloaded the driver but it didn't take over the settings I made in the wheel.
Also, when I made some changes in the settings tab in the driver, I couldn't use the apply button to upload them.
You don't need to press the apply button because the values are already changed in real time in the Tuning Menu. So when you change the Brf value in the driver Tuning Menu Tab from 50 to 70 then it's immediately saved to the Tuning Menu Set.
F**K! Still the same problem! I wonder if any one @ FANATEC reads the thread at all ...No one from FANATEC has given my advise or help here anyway.
I had the same problem with my CSL Elite once before.... With the DD1 it´s every single time! COM3 Error ... Can it be that I have to move the USB around untill I manage to find COM3?? Or is there something wrong with the DD1, set to "read only" or something?
After swichting on the Wheelbase, there was no reaction on quitting the warning message for high torque mode (no reactions on any buttons or 90° left steering). Fanatec property page crashed (not able to load). Switching off the wheelbase via powerbutton not possible -> no reaction.
Disconnected the power supply, reconnected and startet the wheelbase again and anything was fine (base works as usual).
If you need a video or more informations, just let me know.
If it does happen more often a video would help. I think it could be related to the F1 2019 wheel, let me know if it only happens with that one. We are working on a similar issue which could be related.
So the handbrake and shifter can be updated as well?
How do I do that? By connecting them to the pedals instead of the wheelbase?
Or is it also possible by connecting them to the Fanatec USB adapter? Seems easier as all my wires are routed through my stand so I could easily connect the adapter with another wire to the back of the handbrake and shifter.
Shifter and Handbrake have no firmware you could update. The only thing that's possible to update is the USB adapter if one of them is connected to it, but it does nothing with the shifter or handbrake itself. If you use them connected to the base there is no way and no need to update those.
This new driver for the McLaren rim makes the analogue paddles glitchy. As in, they register inputs when no input is given. Tested this with all the other firmwares that come with this driver. I also tested it all the way back to the firmwares from driver 311 (but kept the McLaren RMCL : RMcL_V30_rev38_app for testing purpose).
To make al long story short: the RMCL : RMcL_V30_rev38_app update makes the analogue inputs on my McLaren wheel glitchy. They register tiny inputs when no input is given.
Hope this helps you guys to make the Fanatec products even better.
Which wheel base and wheel base firmware? Does going back to a different wheel firmware version help? Can you switch modes of the clutch paddles and see the axis that has the ghost input changes with changing the mode?
V30 is out for several months now and we didn't have any report regarding this so far.
I have the "Map sequential shifter to paddles" box checked but in iRacing it the SQ doesn't do anything. In the driver Function Test I see a red message that says the SQ is mapped to the paddles but the SQ still lights the SQ lights and not the paddles. I assumed that the SQ would start sending the paddles controller button #4 & 5 instead of the SQ #28 and 29. I tried mapping the SQ in Project Cars 2 to see what it is sending to a game and it still sends 28 and 29. Is this feature supposed to work? How should it work?
Indeed an issue, must have happened when trying to fix another issue regarding this feature.
I wonder what the purpose is of the last tab with settings in the new driver.
I changed some settings on the wheel and the reloaded the driver but it didn't take over the settings I made in the wheel.
Also, when I made some changes in the settings tab in the driver, I couldn't use the apply button to upload them.
You don't need to press the apply button because the values are already changed in real time in the Tuning Menu. So when you change the Brf value in the driver Tuning Menu Tab from 50 to 70 then it's immediately saved to the Tuning Menu Set.
Thanks Maurice, I tried the other way around but not that. Will give it a try together with the Fanalab software.
Yesterday I upgraded to version 345 and firmware on the 662 steering wheel
Immediately after the update, I had a slider on the handbrake (please see the picture) - everything that I didn’t do - it didn’t help me, I tried several times to reinstall the Fanatek drivers and steering wheel firmware - there was always this problem with the handbrake ... I thought I needed to connect handbrake and I did it! But the handbrake does not work ... I connected in different ways ... To the base, to the pedals, directly through the USB (connector) - there was one result - the handbrake does not work !!!
I tried to flash it through YUSB (connector), but he does not see it ...
Then I returned to the old firmware 335 - connected to the steering wheel base and it worked right away! The slider in the picture disappeared and when I pulled the handbrake it appeared - it worked!
What should I do ? where could the problem be?
Was this wrong handbrake input only in the driver or also in-game?
I would like to leave a suggestion...
For example you invite some friend or you have a kid and you want to let him play, but not on high torque cause it's dangerous, putting in and out the torque key will obviously cause problems soon or later, and in some cases it's hard to access the back of the base depending on the setup... So, why not include an option to deactivate it even if the tkey is inserted...
What about manually lowering the FFB Strenght of the base to lets say 25%?
Yesterday I upgraded to version 345. In Driver Version 345 in setup is missing the function for the multiposition Switch for the McLaren Wheel.
So i can´t setup my Wheel in Game Automobilista. One of the two multipositon Switches is always on and so setup in game the pos from the switch to the function
In Driver Version 335 was the function to select what the MPS can to.
These function is missing in 345
I go back to version 335
Go through the tuning menu and adjust the MPS setting to Pulse, then it doesn't cause problems in Automobilista, but it should be set to that by default already because we've chosen it as a default for the most compatibility.
Is it possible to add Auto off feature to the FW that We can set for 20min to give the wheel a Cool Down period before it shuts off... I Just finished playing motor temp is 41°c, Driver Temp is 51°c, Fan RPM 630 so I know its Not too Hot but i don't like shutting it off until the Motor is in the 30's and Driver in the Low 40's.... PS Great Job with the DD2!!! I been playing 4 to 5 hours and that's the steady temp and Fan Speed... I set On wheel Strength to keep Max NM output between 10 -> 12 that's plenty strong enough for Me FFB and Wheel Response Feels Great and the wheel always stays Cool... I'm very Happy with the DD2.
Just shut it off it won't get warmer by itself after that and there is no reason to cool it down faster with a fan.
I still have the issue of the pages, settings and tuning being compressed. I've tried previous suggestion to change DPI settings, but that didn't help after restart.. As well as various combos. I can't get the pages to be seen correctly.
This new driver for the McLaren rim makes the analogue paddles glitchy. As in, they register inputs when no input is given. Tested this with all the other firmwares that come with this driver. I also tested it all the way back to the firmwares from driver 311 (but kept the McLaren RMCL : RMcL_V30_rev38_app for testing purpose).
To make al long story short: the RMCL : RMcL_V30_rev38_app update makes the analogue inputs on my McLaren wheel glitchy. They register tiny inputs when no input is given.
Hope this helps you guys to make the Fanatec products even better.
Which wheel base and wheel base firmware? Does going back to a different wheel firmware version help? Can you switch modes of the clutch paddles and see the axis that has the ghost input changes with changing the mode?
V30 is out for several months now and we didn't have any report regarding this so far.
On what base? I've got the CSL E+ and DD1 PS4. Maybe I can test this too?
I still have the issue of the pages, settings and tuning being compressed. I've tried previous suggestion to change DPI settings, but that didn't help after restart.. As well as various combos. I can't get the pages to be seen correctly.
if your using a Full 4k TV/Monitor @ 3840 ×2160 the Only way is to change your Desk Top Display Resolution to 1920 × 1080....This only affects your Desk Top...You can still leave in game settings to play at 4k and they will play in 4k just fine only thing is when you close a game the steam desk top will be elongated/ stretched out...just Use the mouse to shrink it back to size....Its more of a annoyance than a problem or Huge issue.
Comments
So what you say is that your handbrake does not work connected to your wheel base OR to the CS USB adapter with driver 345. But it works well with the very same firmwares on USB adapter and wheel base with driver 335? That sounds quite strange as the driver does not modify any inputs that way. Can you please contact support and send them a video of both drivers to make them aware and start research. And as Joseph said...please try manual calibration AND also Auto calibration. The screenshot shows a non calibrated handbrake in manual mode which needs min and max set manually.