On 345 with the DD1 PS4, the "Map sequential shifter to the shifter paddles" checkbox doesn't seem to work. In iRacing, the paddles and the shifter report as different buttons even when this box is checked. It's my understanding that checking this box should cause the paddles & the shifter (in sequential mode) to report as the same buttons so that you can use either without having to remap controls in iRacing.
I cannot say for sure, but I feel like this used to work in an older driver.
I still have the issue of the pages, settings and tuning being compressed. I've tried previous suggestion to change DPI settings, but that didn't help after restart.. As well as various combos. I can't get the pages to be seen correctly.
What was your exact monitor setup and can you show your settings?
Did you also try this windows setting which should fix blurriness?
On 345 with the DD1 PS4, the "Map sequential shifter to the shifter paddles" checkbox doesn't seem to work. In iRacing, the paddles and the shifter report as different buttons even when this box is checked. It's my understanding that checking this box should cause the paddles & the shifter (in sequential mode) to report as the same buttons so that you can use either without having to remap controls in iRacing.
I cannot say for sure, but I feel like this used to work in an older driver.
My shifter is plugged into the DD1.
Thanks for the report, will be fixed in the next version.
I had the same problem with my CSL Elite once before.... With the DD1 it´s every single time! COM3 Error ... Can it be that I have to move the USB around untill I manage to find COM3?? Or is there something wrong with the DD1, set to "read only" or something?
If you have the same problem with the CSL Elite and the DD1 it does not sound like a hardware issue. Did you check on another PC? I have never heard about this issue ever before. So I highly doubt that you do have a unique hardware issue 2 times. But...definiely the wrong forum thread here since I bet that you have the same issue with the previous driver.
Hi,
Just tried to upgrade the driver from 340 to 345. First by installing it on top. Didn’t work. Then uninstalled everything and clean installed 345. The problem is that windows (10) and Fanatec controller panel does not recognise any of my devices (DD1, V2 Formula wheel, V3 Pedals). Had to go back to 340 which works fine. Naturally could not touch the firmwares yet because the control panel is not showing the controllers. Any ideas?
F1 2019 and GTS on PS4 - No issues so far. Performing as it should
Yet to try:
Haven't tried the Mclaren GT3 wheel or F1 Carbon yet - will do tonight
Fark i love this wheel!
Using with the Mclaren GT3 wheel in Grand Turismo Sport im getting random disconnections.. the wheel just turns to one side on screen, and no pedals or nothing works.. What would be causing this?? Is this driver or hardware??
Hi,
Just tried to upgrade the driver from 340 to 345. First by installing it on top. Didn’t work. Then uninstalled everything and clean installed 345. The problem is that windows (10) and Fanatec controller panel does not recognise any of my devices (DD1, V2 Formula wheel, V3 Pedals). Had to go back to 340 which works fine. Naturally could not touch the firmwares yet because the control panel is not showing the controllers. Any ideas?
Installing while the hardware is connected and active can help if that wasn't done already.
You could try the repair function of the 345 driver installer.
Maybe it works better with a different USB port, do you use a Hub or front-USB of the case?
If everything doesn't help you can go to the device manager and manually delete the device driver for a fresh install.
F1 2019 and GTS on PS4 - No issues so far. Performing as it should
Yet to try:
Haven't tried the Mclaren GT3 wheel or F1 Carbon yet - will do tonight
Fark i love this wheel!
Using with the Mclaren GT3 wheel in Grand Turismo Sport im getting random disconnections.. the wheel just turns to one side on screen, and no pedals or nothing works.. What would be causing this?? Is this driver or hardware??
Which QR is attached to the McLaren wheel, are all the pins fine?
Does it happen with other wheels or in other games too?
Hi,
Just tried to upgrade the driver from 340 to 345. First by installing it on top. Didn’t work. Then uninstalled everything and clean installed 345. The problem is that windows (10) and Fanatec controller panel does not recognise any of my devices (DD1, V2 Formula wheel, V3 Pedals). Had to go back to 340 which works fine. Naturally could not touch the firmwares yet because the control panel is not showing the controllers. Any ideas?
Installing while the hardware is connected and active can help if that wasn't done already.
You could try the repair function of the 345 driver installer.
Maybe it works better with a different USB port, do you use a Hub or front-USB of the case?
If everything doesn't help you can go to the device manager and manually delete the device driver for a fresh install.
Thank you Marcel, I will try those.
Did not have devices connected during installation, only after reboots. USB connected back of computer and did try also removing most other USB devices prior installing. I assume the repair function will show up when driver already installed? Not sure however if it's very necessary to upgrade to 345 for my setup at the moment or just wait for new beta or final drivers.
Hi,
Just tried to upgrade the driver from 340 to 345. First by installing it on top. Didn’t work. Then uninstalled everything and clean installed 345. The problem is that windows (10) and Fanatec controller panel does not recognise any of my devices (DD1, V2 Formula wheel, V3 Pedals). Had to go back to 340 which works fine. Naturally could not touch the firmwares yet because the control panel is not showing the controllers. Any ideas?
Installing while the hardware is connected and active can help if that wasn't done already.
You could try the repair function of the 345 driver installer.
Maybe it works better with a different USB port, do you use a Hub or front-USB of the case?
If everything doesn't help you can go to the device manager and manually delete the device driver for a fresh install.
Thank you Marcel, I will try those.
Did not have devices connected during installation, only after reboots. USB connected back of computer and did try also removing most other USB devices prior installing. I assume the repair function will show up when driver already installed? Not sure however if it's very necessary to upgrade to 345 for my setup at the moment or just wait for new beta or final drivers.
Yes best is to have the device on and then install 345 and if there are still issues and you start the installer again it offers a repair function. Or you go manually into the device manager and delete the usb driver there.
I still have the issue of the pages, settings and tuning being compressed. I've tried previous suggestion to change DPI settings, but that didn't help after restart.. As well as various combos. I can't get the pages to be seen correctly.
if your using a Full 4k TV/Monitor @ 3840 ×2160 the Only way is to change your Desk Top Display Resolution to 1920 × 1080....This only affects your Desk Top...You can still leave in game settings to play at 4k and they will play in 4k just fine only thing is when you close a game the steam desk top will be elongated/ stretched out...just Use the mouse to shrink it back to size....Its more of a annoyance than a problem or Huge issue.
@Marcel Pfister my setup is double screens. One monitor, 24",1920*1080 and one Samsung TV, 60", 1920*1080. Both connected to a Nvidia GTX 980Ti. My Samsung TV is my main screen, and my monitor my secondary. If I have the pages opened up at my TV, these are shown compressed. I have tried various combos in settings at the compatibility tab. Also tried the windows version setting. I just can't get it to a normal page. I somehow managed with driver 340... But not with this one
Weird question maybe.. But isn't it possible to make this a flexible window, so we can minimize, maximize and stretch it by holding the corner points with the cursor... Like most app windows... Even Fanalab has it... So why not this app?
Any 1 else having DOR issues in Assetto Corsa???
The DOR is Hyper Sensitive when set to Auto... I have to Manually Set it to 1080 for it to work correctly
I went back to 334 and all is well again.
Windows 10/64bit, 1903 build
DD2
v3i Pedals
Xbox1 Hub, Forza Rim w/APM
Yesterday I upgraded to version 345 and firmware on the 662 steering wheel
Immediately after the update, I had a slider on the handbrake (please see the picture) - everything that I didn’t do - it didn’t help me, I tried several times to reinstall the Fanatek drivers and steering wheel firmware - there was always this problem with the handbrake ... I thought I needed to connect handbrake and I did it! But the handbrake does not work ... I connected in different ways ... To the base, to the pedals, directly through the USB (connector) - there was one result - the handbrake does not work !!!
I tried to flash it through YUSB (connector), but he does not see it ...
Then I returned to the old firmware 335 - connected to the steering wheel base and it worked right away! The slider in the picture disappeared and when I pulled the handbrake it appeared - it worked!
Thank you, but it didn’t help ((... I thought for a long time and reinstalled both the Fanatek driver and the steering wheel firmware several times without success ... BUT I found a solution! I closed all the processes, all the auxiliary programs that are minimized below, the graphics , all sorts of managers, even Nvideo experts and msi autoburner ... Then I uninstalled the driver through windows and installed it from scratch with all processes disabled !!! and everything turned out - 345 and 662 - the handbrake worked !!! When installing past drivers - I didn’t did not disconnect - everything was installed without disconnection - accept it note ... and thanks for the help!
Yesterday I upgraded to version 345 and firmware on the 662 steering wheel
Immediately after the update, I had a slider on the handbrake (please see the picture) - everything that I didn’t do - it didn’t help me, I tried several times to reinstall the Fanatek drivers and steering wheel firmware - there was always this problem with the handbrake ... I thought I needed to connect handbrake and I did it! But the handbrake does not work ... I connected in different ways ... To the base, to the pedals, directly through the USB (connector) - there was one result - the handbrake does not work !!!
I tried to flash it through YUSB (connector), but he does not see it ...
Then I returned to the old firmware 335 - connected to the steering wheel base and it worked right away! The slider in the picture disappeared and when I pulled the handbrake it appeared - it worked!
I don't know if it's relevant, but could you make sure the haptic device is always the first listed of both devices, or make both devices haptic capable so it always works whatever device a game uses, or make it configurable (selecting which device is the haptic one) or do anything else which can help with the issues I've?
I've one FFB tool for arcade games which struggles because it always uses the first of the 2 DD1 devices while the FFB works only on the second one (and changing the "prefered device" doesn't help, it doesn't change the order the app sees the devices).
I've also no FFB in WRC 8 with the wheel being detected as not haptic capable (but it could be not related, some Logitech users have the same issue).
I know it works for many people in both cases but not for me.
With this beta driver, at least in my case, the throttle, clutch and handbrake axis are mixed (with everything plugged on the DD1 base). For example, on WRC 8 default mapping, the clutch triggers the throttle, the handbrake triggers the clutch, and for whatever reason, I can't map the clutch pedal properly. That probably explains why the handbrake gauge doesn't work in the driver UI, the axis change has probably not been properly reported there for the handbrake. But having the Y axis as clutch seems problematic in some cases (and not very logical), and it will force everyone to remap those axis in all games.
F1 2019 and GTS on PS4 - No issues so far. Performing as it should
Yet to try:
Haven't tried the Mclaren GT3 wheel or F1 Carbon yet - will do tonight
Fark i love this wheel!
Using with the Mclaren GT3 wheel in Grand Turismo Sport im getting random disconnections.. the wheel just turns to one side on screen, and no pedals or nothing works.. What would be causing this?? Is this driver or hardware??
Which QR is attached to the McLaren wheel, are all the pins fine?
Does it happen with other wheels or in other games too?
Hi Marcel,
Looks like the PS4 DD1 base has an issue. Was on Chat with Fanatec Support Friday night. Sending it back for an exchange.
The issue would present every 3-4 laps with either the F1 podium wheel or Mclaren GT3, and was a loss of turning input as well as the pedals would cut out. All telemetry would continue (which was strange!). Unplugging the USB, and plugging back in would sort the issue, but 3-4 laps later it would return. The USB cut was very consistent and could be replicated every time the base was used.
I flashed back to V335 as instructed by support, same issue occurred.. Just waiting for the RMA number so that I can send the DD set back.
I'm not sure if V345 fw caused this issue??. I had run this FW on the DD1 base for about 8 hours without an issue - For most of this time I was running High Torque mode but had tuned the DD settings to about 6-7Nm max, following the PS4 recommended settings in this forum.
I've also been using V345 on my CSL Elite PS4 wheel the last week without any issues at all (well over 15hrs use).
The issue would present every 3-4 laps with either the F1 podium wheel or Mclaren GT3, and was a loss of turning input as well as the pedals would cut out. All telemetry would continue (which was strange!). Unplugging the USB, and plugging back in would sort the issue, but 3-4 laps later it would return. The USB cut was very consistent and could be replicated every time the base was used.
I had a similar disconnect issue on Friday in a GT Sport race. Unplugging & plugging back in resolved it, but obviously that's less than ideal. However, my cutout only happened once & in many hours on 345 prior to that I didn't have an issue. Will continue to test.
Until I saw this post my first suspect was the USB cable extension leading to my rig. Going to change that out anyway, but maybe it isn't a coincidence that I never had a disconnect until running on the firmware that comes with this new driver release?
Any 1 else having DOR issues in Assetto Corsa???
The DOR is Hyper Sensitive when set to Auto... I have to Manually Set it to 1080 for it to work correctly
I went back to 334 and all is well again.
Windows 10/64bit, 1903 build
DD2
v3i Pedals
Xbox1 Hub, Forza Rim w/APM
I don't know if it's relevant, but could you make sure the haptic device is always the first listed of both devices, or make both devices haptic capable so it always works whatever device a game uses, or make it configurable (selecting which device is the haptic one) or do anything else which can help with the issues I've?
I've one FFB tool for arcade games which struggles because it always uses the first of the 2 DD1 devices while the FFB works only on the second one (and changing the "prefered device" doesn't help, it doesn't change the order the app sees the devices).
I've also no FFB in WRC 8 with the wheel being detected as not haptic capable (but it could be not related, some Logitech users have the same issue).
I know it works for many people in both cases but not for me.
With this beta driver, at least in my case, the throttle, clutch and handbrake axis are mixed (with everything plugged on the DD1 base). For example, on WRC 8 default mapping, the clutch triggers the throttle, the handbrake triggers the clutch, and for whatever reason, I can't map the clutch pedal properly. That probably explains why the handbrake gauge doesn't work in the driver UI, the axis change has probably not been properly reported there for the handbrake. But having the Y axis as clutch seems problematic in some cases (and not very logical), and it will force everyone to remap those axis in all games.
Where did you plug in the handbrake and do you use the cable for the pedals which came with the DD?
This new driver for the McLaren rim makes the analogue paddles glitchy. As in, they register inputs when no input is given. Tested this with all the other firmwares that come with this driver. I also tested it all the way back to the firmwares from driver 311 (but kept the McLaren RMCL : RMcL_V30_rev38_app for testing purpose).
To make al long story short: the RMCL : RMcL_V30_rev38_app update makes the analogue inputs on my McLaren wheel glitchy. They register tiny inputs when no input is given.
Hope this helps you guys to make the Fanatec products even better.
Which wheel base and wheel base firmware? Does going back to a different wheel firmware version help? Can you switch modes of the clutch paddles and see the axis that has the ghost input changes with changing the mode?
V30 is out for several months now and we didn't have any report regarding this so far.
On what base? I've got the CSL E+ and DD1 PS4. Maybe I can test this too?
Sorry for my late reaction. The problem is gone. It turned out that autocalibration was turned 'off' after the update and that's what made the paddles glitchy. Turned on autocalibration and the problem did no longer exist. Btw, the base I have is CSL E+ and I race on the PS4.
Don't know if this was caused by this package but after being previously immune I am now suffering from the intermittent notchy steering problem. I had stuck with motor v20 but have now tried switching to v22 - problem seems exactly the same with both - happens intermittently, no discernible pattern - wheel base restart cures it until it eventually happens again - seems to be every 46 - 60 mins. Wheel base is not hot - fan barely running. Annoying!!
Where did you plug in the handbrake and do you use the cable for the pedals which came with the DD?
Everything is plugged on the base, and I use the DD1 cable for the pedals.
I've reverted to driver v335, it didn't help (I uninstalled the beta, didn't reboot before installing v335, I kept the wheel turned on during the install and didn't reboot before checking in the driver UI, then I've rebooted but still mixed axes). I've then reverted to firmware 653, it didn't help.
Then I've uninstalled v335, turned off the wheel, rebooted, reinstalled v335, rebooted, and then turned on the wheel and now everything is back to normal.
Normal means throttle = Y axis, clutch = slider 0, handbrake = slider 1
With the beta throttle = Z axis, clutch = Y axis, handbrake = slider 0
I could try to install properly (uninstall v335, reboot if it matters, install the beta with the wheel turned off, reboot, then turn on the wheel) to see if the mixed axis come back, if it helps, but now it's back to normal and the beta didn't help with my haptic device detection issue, I'll do it only if it has any interest for you.
And please, PLEASE, do something for this "multple devices listed but only one haptic capable" issue, I've just tried a third app which doesn't work, it lists the wheel 3 times but fail to make the FFB work whatever device I select. I just can't play half of my favourite games with a 1000€ base for a minor driver issue/design choice (at least on Windows 7)...
Having all apps haptic capable would help a lot (or make sure the first one listed is the haptic one in all ways to get the devices list, not sure it would be enought, but it would help). I also suspect some apps fail because all devices have the same name, so maybe setting different names could help.
I didn't have any issue with the CSL Elite which also appears as 2 devices with the same name if I remember correctly. I assume it all depends on if the haptic device is the first one registered, and I don't know if there is some randomness there (many people seems to have their DD1 working with WRC 8 for example) and if there is a way to manually change the order.
It's also weird that soime apps see 3 devices instead of 2.
The issue would present every 3-4 laps with either the F1 podium wheel or Mclaren GT3, and was a loss of turning input as well as the pedals would cut out. All telemetry would continue (which was strange!). Unplugging the USB, and plugging back in would sort the issue, but 3-4 laps later it would return. The USB cut was very consistent and could be replicated every time the base was used.
I had a similar disconnect issue on Friday in a GT Sport race. Unplugging & plugging back in resolved it, but obviously that's less than ideal. However, my cutout only happened once & in many hours on 345 prior to that I didn't have an issue. Will continue to test.
Until I saw this post my first suspect was the USB cable extension leading to my rig. Going to change that out anyway, but maybe it isn't a coincidence that I never had a disconnect until running on the firmware that comes with this new driver release?
That is just the start, eventually it will cut out every 4-5 min playing. I would suggest you return yours for RMA also. I tried many different USB cables, also all ports on the PS4 without success. I have no idea what is causing it. It was really weird though, as it was fine for 6-7 hrs play in multiple sessions, then suddenly it started happening and in all sim racing games.
Dropping back to official release V335 firmware did not resolve it either (FYI)
I just hope my 2nd set does not do the same thing, or I will be returning for a refund and sticking with my CSL Elite. Seems there are new issues popping up every day
Don't know if this was caused by this package but after being previously immune I am now suffering from the intermittent notchy steering problem. I had stuck with motor v20 but have now tried switching to v22 - problem seems exactly the same with both - happens intermittently, no discernible pattern - wheel base restart cures it until it eventually happens again - seems to be every 46 - 60 mins. Wheel base is not hot - fan barely running. Annoying!!
Where did you plug in the handbrake and do you use the cable for the pedals which came with the DD?
Everything is plugged on the base, and I use the DD1 cable for the pedals.
I've reverted to driver v335, it didn't help (I uninstalled the beta, didn't reboot before installing v335, I kept the wheel turned on during the install and didn't reboot before checking in the driver UI, then I've rebooted but still mixed axes). I've then reverted to firmware 653, it didn't help.
Then I've uninstalled v335, turned off the wheel, rebooted, reinstalled v335, rebooted, and then turned on the wheel and now everything is back to normal.
Normal means throttle = Y axis, clutch = slider 0, handbrake = slider 1
With the beta throttle = Z axis, clutch = Y axis, handbrake = slider 0
I could try to install properly (uninstall v335, reboot if it matters, install the beta with the wheel turned off, reboot, then turn on the wheel) to see if the mixed axis come back, if it helps, but now it's back to normal and the beta didn't help with my haptic device detection issue, I'll do it only if it has any interest for you.
And please, PLEASE, do something for this "multple devices listed but only one haptic capable" issue, I've just tried a third app which doesn't work, it lists the wheel 3 times but fail to make the FFB work whatever device I select. I just can't play half of my favourite games with a 1000€ base for a minor driver issue/design choice (at least on Windows 7)...
Having all apps haptic capable would help a lot (or make sure the first one listed is the haptic one in all ways to get the devices list, not sure it would be enought, but it would help). I also suspect some apps fail because all devices have the same name, so maybe setting different names could help.
I didn't have any issue with the CSL Elite which also appears as 2 devices with the same name if I remember correctly. I assume it all depends on if the haptic device is the first one registered, and I don't know if there is some randomness there (many people seems to have their DD1 working with WRC 8 for example) and if there is a way to manually change the order.
It's also weird that soime apps see 3 devices instead of 2.
In my case and with the software I use, for example Fedit, it's always the first and always the same device which is capable of FFB. Which games and tools are you using?
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