Have you done this yet???.... Reading through All the update Notes is always a good thing.
"GENERAL NOTE: due to the significant restructuring of the user interface, it is recommended to delete your docs/ACC/Config/menuSettings.json file after installing the latest update."
Steering Wheel Model (product ID): Forza motorsport
Driver Version: 347
Base FW Version: 664
Wheel FW Version: 22
Guys I went from driver 311 straight to 347 because I was getting no vibration or forces in Forza motorsport 7 but no joy! Anyone recommend a particular driver and firmware version to fix the Forza motorsport 7 issue and how do I rollback (i.e. firmware or drivers first)?
Thanks in advance
FM7 on PC or Xbox?
Did it work before with FM7, could it be related to an update of the game?
Does it work fine in other games?
Did you check Tuning Menu and in-game settings if something is turned off?
You can roll back by installing an older driver and updating the firmware manually, it will say that the firmware already installed is newer but just ignore it, press yes and follow the instructions of the updater as usual.
Thanks for the report Chad, let me know if it happens again.
This is still happening. This time I loaded into ACC and then back to iRacing later and the Senstivity is not using Auto. It's stuck on whatever ACC was using.
It seems that I'm in the same boat.
Since I installed WRC 8 or Driver 346 (I don't know which was the trigger) I have also problems with the steering sensitivity.
Nowadays I'm more or less stuck in the range of about 480 - 540 degree which seems to be reported from the driver in auto or set to 1080 on the function test page. The difference is in auto i'm only able to turn the wheel 240 degree in each direction and with 1080 i'm able to turn the wheel 1080 degree but the driver reports only 240 degree in each direction on the function test page.
Some games e.g. Raceroom overwrite this setting with the in game car setting if set to auto but other games e.g. DR 2 use sometimes only the reported value 480 degree even if the wheel in reality is set to 1080. So in game the wheel turns only 480 while in reality i have to turn the wheel 1080.
The setting to 1080:
Reported value 243 to each side (480).
Wheel Base Model (product ID): Podium DD2
Steering Wheel Model (product ID): Porsche 918 RSR Driver Version: 346 Base FW Version: 662
Motor FW: 30 Wheel FW Version: ??
Thanks for the detailed report with screenshots, I'll forward this to our developers, hopefully it helps to understand the issue better.
Have you done this yet???.... Reading through All the update Notes is always a good thing.
"GENERAL NOTE: due to the significant restructuring of the user interface, it is recommended to delete your docs/ACC/Config/menuSettings.json file after installing the latest update."
Hi, I've a deal breaking issue with driver 335 on my DD1: from time to time (it can happen after 30 mins and several times in the same day like not happen during days), the base controls get disconnected, are frozen in game to the last value registered, the FFB still works, and the driver don't initialize correctly anymore (and sometimes ask for updating the firmware) until I reboot. Turning off, unplugging or doing anything with the base doesn't change anything, rebooting does (even without turning off the wheel if I remember correctly). It never happened in hundreds of hours with the CSL Elite with drivers 328 or older
I hope it's just a driver issue and not a problem with the base.
And so my question is: has it been fixed in current beta drivers?
Also, I was talking in a previous beta driver topic about the haptic device being the second one, and I confirm that, in some situations it is (in my case it is on my W7; not on a W10 I've installed to test that). For example, when it happens, all games/apps which use the SDL library don't see the wheel as a haptic device. I've seen a few other people reporting that too.
Hi, I've a deal breaking issue with driver 335 on my DD1: from time to time (it can happen after 30 mins and several times in the same day like not happen during days), the base controls get disconnected, are frozen in game to the last value registered, the FFB still works, and the driver don't initialize correctly anymore (and sometimes ask for updating the firmware) until I reboot. Turning off, unplugging or doing anything with the base doesn't change anything, rebooting does (even without turning off the wheel if I remember correctly). It never happened in hundreds of hours with the CSL Elite with drivers 328 or older
I hope it's just a driver issue and not a problem with the base.
And so my question is: has it been fixed in current beta drivers?
Also, I was talking in a previous beta driver topic about the haptic device being the second one, and I confirm that, in some situations it is (in my case it is on my W7; not on a W10 I've installed to test that). For example, when it happens, all games/apps which use the SDL library don't see the wheel as a haptic device. I've seen a few other people reporting that too.
I had a similar issue on my PS4 Podium. After 5 minutes it would disconnect - pedals and turning the wheel did nothing, but still had FFB and displayed telemetry. Tried a lot of things but ended up returning the unit for a new one. Never had the issue since.
I was using the official release 335 driver at the time, then updated 336 (same issue), and tried all the betas up to 345 to no avail. Try a different driver first, swap USB ports as well, but if same issue persists, then most likely the DD base
I would suggest that if this happens after a fairly consistent amount of time, the USB controller is probably slowly dying (could be the voltage regulator on the USB is not holding a constant 5v and eventually drops below the threshold of the PC causing it to drop out - i dont know) but when mine would fail it was always approx 5 minutes of use in any of the racing sims. For me unplugging the USB from the back of the unit, and plugging back in would fix it - for another 5 minutes. If yours is the same (but every 30min consistently) then I would suggest hardware fault.
Hi, I've a deal breaking issue with driver 335 on my DD1: from time to time (it can happen after 30 mins and several times in the same day like not happen during days), the base controls get disconnected, are frozen in game to the last value registered, the FFB still works, and the driver don't initialize correctly anymore (and sometimes ask for updating the firmware) until I reboot. Turning off, unplugging or doing anything with the base doesn't change anything, rebooting does (even without turning off the wheel if I remember correctly). It never happened in hundreds of hours with the CSL Elite with drivers 328 or older
I hope it's just a driver issue and not a problem with the base.
And so my question is: has it been fixed in current beta drivers?
Also, I was talking in a previous beta driver topic about the haptic device being the second one, and I confirm that, in some situations it is (in my case it is on my W7; not on a W10 I've installed to test that). For example, when it happens, all games/apps which use the SDL library don't see the wheel as a haptic device. I've seen a few other people reporting that too.
I would suggest you try 346 and if it still happens you contact support.
I would suggest you try 346 and if it still happens you contact support.
That's what I wanted to do but I had another issue with beta drivers I've also reported for v345, and which is still there with v346 (I've just installed it). On W7, the axis are messed up, accel is Z, brake is RZ, clutch is Y and handbrake is sliders0, and handbrake gauge doesn't work (but the axis works). At best it forces to remap in every game, at worst some games refuse to map some of the axis. WIth v345 I had to unsinstall/reinstall/reboot several times v335 and its firmware to get back the correct axis.
I've just tried on W10 with v346 on the same computer, axis are ok there. I don't know what you've changed between v335 and last betas and I don't know if it's the same for all, most or only a few W7 users, but between this issue and the haptic device as second device one, I strongly suggest to test more your drivers with W7.
Also, if I do the shifter calibration from the settings screen, gears 1 and 3 trigger reverse (I did the calibration twice) while it's ok with the on wheel calibration.
Anyway, I'll see if I can keep this beta driver for now despite this issue to see if I still have those partial disconnections.
I would suggest you try 346 and if it still happens you contact support.
That's what I wanted to do but I had another issue with beta drivers I've also reported for v345, and which is still there with v346 (I've just installed it). On W7, the axis are messed up, accel is Z, brake is RZ, clutch is Y and handbrake is sliders0, and handbrake gauge doesn't work (but the axis works). At best it forces to remap in every game, at worst some games refuse to map some of the axis. WIth v345 I had to unsinstall/reinstall/reboot several times v335 and its firmware to get back the correct axis.
I've just tried on W10 with v346 on the same computer, axis are ok there. I don't know what you've changed between v335 and last betas and I don't know if it's the same for all, most or only a few W7 users, but between this issue and the haptic device as second device one, I strongly suggest to test more your drivers with W7.
Also, if I do the shifter calibration from the settings screen, gears 1 and 3 trigger reverse (I did the calibration twice) while it's ok with the on wheel calibration.
Anyway, I'll see if I can keep this beta driver for now despite this issue to see if I still have those partial disconnections.
When I see posts like this I'm so glad I'm on PS4 Pro. I've had zero issues on the V346 driver wheel firmware and to be honest its been the absolute best driver I've used with the Podium DD to date. I also have the SQ shifter, and while I'm using in sequential mode (not H) it works flawlessly in GTS, AC, Pcars2 and Grid...
Those issues (and it's the first time I've any issue with any wheel driver on PC) are nothing compared to the insane limitations in configuration and choice of games we have on console, but that's not the subject
I would suggest you try 346 and if it still happens you contact support.
That's what I wanted to do but I had another issue with beta drivers I've also reported for v345, and which is still there with v346 (I've just installed it). On W7, the axis are messed up, accel is Z, brake is RZ, clutch is Y and handbrake is sliders0, and handbrake gauge doesn't work (but the axis works). At best it forces to remap in every game, at worst some games refuse to map some of the axis. WIth v345 I had to unsinstall/reinstall/reboot several times v335 and its firmware to get back the correct axis.
I've just tried on W10 with v346 on the same computer, axis are ok there. I don't know what you've changed between v335 and last betas and I don't know if it's the same for all, most or only a few W7 users, but between this issue and the haptic device as second device one, I strongly suggest to test more your drivers with W7.
Also, if I do the shifter calibration from the settings screen, gears 1 and 3 trigger reverse (I did the calibration twice) while it's ok with the on wheel calibration.
Anyway, I'll see if I can keep this beta driver for now despite this issue to see if I still have those partial disconnections.
W7 is end of life, I don't think we will do extensive testing there as even Microsoft stops supporting
There should be absolutely no difference between calibration through the driver and wheel because both is saved in the same way and the driver just does the button presses for you to proceed the steps. With those kind of miss shifts it's usually a hardware issue but maybe you can make a video of the calibration and testing to show whats happening.
Being end of life is not an excuse to break things which were working on previous versions, W7 is still widely used (still second OS with 30% of market shares, 18% on steam), it's just laziness and unprofessionalism, and quite unacceptable when you've customers who gave you thousands of €.
As for the calibration, I've had not a single bad calibration in 3 years, the 2 only I've had, both in the exact same way, are the 2 only ones I've done from the driver. Of course it doesn't mean it's a problem with the driver, I've not made further tests (I just wanted to make it work after 1 hours of messing with drivers on 2 OS), I just reported what happened. I can complete by saying that I did this calibration from the driver because I messed up with the post firmware update calibration by setting the 7th gear in place of reverse, but assumed everything related to previous calibration was simply deleted and didn't have any impact on the new one.
Being end of life is not an excuse to break things which were working on previous versions, W7 is still widely used (still second OS with 30% of market shares, 18% on steam), it's just laziness and unprofessionalism, and quite unacceptable when you've customers who gave you thousands of €.
As for the calibration, I've had not a single bad calibration in 3 years, the 2 only I've had, both in the exact same way, are the 2 only ones I've done from the driver. Of course it doesn't mean it's a problem with the driver, I've not made further tests (I just wanted to make it work after 1 hours of messing with drivers on 2 OS), I just reported what happened. I can complete by saying that I did this calibration from the driver because I messed up with the post firmware update calibration by setting the 7th gear in place of reverse, but assumed everything related to previous calibration was simply deleted and didn't have any impact on the new one.
It's not that we break things intentionally or we don't care at all, it's just not as high priority. I'll forward it. Still not sure if it's even a W7 issue as you state reflashing the firmware could solve it.
No, reflashing the firmware did not help. As soon as the beta driver
is installed, the axis are messed up even before the base firmware is
updated.
Uninstaling v345 and reinstalling v335
didn't help, reinstalling firmware of driver v335 didn't help, I had to
uninstall/reinstall/reboot several times to finally get back the correct
axis (it was a couple months ago, I don't remember in details). Maybe it would have been the same without going back to old
firmware, I didn't test all possibilities, it was already a pain in the
ass to get back the correct axis.
With v346, I keep the messed axis for now because they work with the few games I'm playing now, to see if it helps with the disconnection issue.
I
can understand it's not a high priority issue, but you can also
understand it's something which should never end up in a non beta
driver, and maybe it's not that complicated to check what has changed
axis related since v335 to fix it. If you can't reproduce on your W7, I
can make a few checks to help, like checking if it does the same with a
CSL Elite with v346, but only if it helps because it's time consuming. It would be interesting to know if other W7 users have the same issue, maybe it could be related to an old lib on my old W7.
Being end of life is not an excuse to break things which were working on previous versions, W7 is still widely used (still second OS with 30% of market shares, 18% on steam), it's just laziness and unprofessionalism, and quite unacceptable when you've customers who gave you thousands of €.
Don't be a luddite.
Things that are end of life don't get testing. It's not like they blocked the installer for win 7 arbitrarily. Technology marches on, if you don't move with it you get left behind. They have no obligation to provide anything more than the drivers that were available when you purchased the equipment.
You're lucky they are acknowledging you and supporting you at all on the forum. Many companies would say, upgrade to windows 10 and then get back to us.
raceroom doesn't auto change rotation of my wheel now since i updated to 346, this is on podium dd1
I Play alot of Race Room... I have DD2 and 346 works Flawless for Me... Here are a few things you can Check...
1) Verify integrity of Game Files... Some times Game files are Missing or Corrupt and game still plays but some settings won't work correctly.
2) First Make sure Steam is Closed and your wheel is Off!!!...When you update your wheel Drivers the New Driver Settings may Not Save/Load or work correctly with steam games if its open and your wheel is On... Steam maybe Hooked/ Have Old Driver parameters/Settings Loaded so wheel is ready to use because Steam Detects your wheel as a Controller even if your Not in a game ---> Next Don't delete the Driver 346 click it to install then when prompted select Repair... Re Start your PC and Check if Sen/ DOR is being Auto set correctly.
3) Go into the Garage and select steering settings and push reset.
4) You may have to Delete your controller config file, Start game so it makes a New 1 then re do your wheel bindings and settings.
i noticed raceroom only auto changes rotation when the sensitivity is set to auto, when set to 1080 it wouldn't change the rotation, other games work fine when not in auto
i noticed raceroom only auto changes rotation when the sensitivity is set to auto, when set to 1080 it wouldn't change the rotation, other games work fine when not in auto
So what is going on with firmware right now? It's been over a month since we've seen anything and you guys had betas coming out almost weekly.
I would really like to get a stable firmware that is working 100% proper w/ my DD1. I really hope this gap in releases means you have something stable coming.
why "DD users might want to skip this version." if this version adds new features to it like:
The FFB is horrible on DD2 with Driver V347. It feels as if there would be gears, pretty worn out gears, instead of the DD motor.
Furthermore there is a bug when changing sensitivity and having the FanaLab software running in the background. When you need to change it down to, lets say, 1080° while driving, it will show "OFF" somewhere around ~1500° and then start from 2520° again. The FanaLab SW has only the steps between 90° and 1080°, but the wheel has more, so it gets messed up.
So what is going on with firmware right now? It's been over a month since we've seen anything and you guys had betas coming out almost weekly.
I would really like to get a stable firmware that is working 100% proper w/ my DD1. I really hope this gap in releases means you have something stable coming.
Agreed. If the new features aren’t quite ready for prime time, then can we get a release that’s nothing but bug fixes in the interim? Right now we have to choose between 346 with correct FFB or 347 with the potential freezing fix. I don’t think that deciding “which feature would you like to work, at the expense of another?” is a proper position to put your end users in.
Yeah, that's a whole other issue. The last non-beta driver was 335. It's been 5 months since then without a fix for the freezing bug. It's fine to say "go with betas if you want the latest features first", but not bug fixes, especially not hard freeze fixes.
Comments
Same Problem, after delete die json file...
This is correct.
Agreed. If the new features aren’t quite ready for prime time, then can we get a release that’s nothing but bug fixes in the interim? Right now we have to choose between 346 with correct FFB or 347 with the potential freezing fix. I don’t think that deciding “which feature would you like to work, at the expense of another?” is a proper position to put your end users in.