Khashy...There is a drilling template on page 23 of the Universal hub for Xbox manual. http://www.fanatec.com/download/RUHX-Manual_Web.pdf You could use that to drill new holes in your Audi wheel. You can adjust the depth/reach of the paddle shifters on the hub if you want to use the Sparco. Undo the two allen screws that attach the shifter to the hub. Turn the bracket around, and it should be about 3/4 to an inch closer to your new wheel. You would have to invert the paddles as well on the bracket as they would be upside down. Just undo the screws, flip the paddle and re-attach it. And you can add spacers and/or use longer screws to extend the paddle shifters even more if you have to.
Adjusting the settings is the same as the CSR Elite. Just press the little button on top of the hub, the one on the top and in front and to the left, of the LED display. That will display S-1, press again and it exits. To get S-2, etc., use the big thumb control stick, turn it. Also use it to move through the settings. Left right for the SEN, FFB, SHOC, Drift, etc. Up down or turn it to change the setting value.
Khashy...There is a drilling template on page 23 of the Universal hub for Xbox manual. http://www.fanatec.com/download/RUHX-Manual_Web.pdf You could use that to drill new holes in your Audi wheel. You can adjust the depth/reach of the paddle shifters on the hub if you want to use the Sparco. Undo the two allen screws that attach the shifter to the hub. Turn the bracket around, and it should be about 3/4 to an inch closer to your new wheel. You would have to invert the paddles as well on the bracket as they would be upside down. Just undo the screws, flip the paddle and re-attach it. And you can add spacers and/or use longer screws to extend the paddle shifters even more if you have to.
Adjusting the settings is the same as the CSR Elite. Just press the little button on top of the hub, the one on the top and in front and to the left, of the LED display. That will display S-1, press again and it exits. To get S-2, etc., use the big thumb control stick, turn it. Also use it to move through the settings. Left right for the SEN, FFB, SHOC, Drift, etc. Up down or turn it to change the setting value.
The steering wheel is still too concave, I can't reach any of the buttons and the paddle shifters on their most aggressive setting is still way too far away, I also worried to spend another $75 to buy those adapters to bring them even closer because I don't know if it will work. I will post up a pic.
Does anybody have an issue with clunking and a lot of noise coming from their steering wheel & adapter hub?
I noticed only 4 of the 6 screws actually screwed into the hub due to the metal sliders being in the way...even if you use the opening to fit a screw in between it, still no screw will between it.
The first one was RMA... Got the new one today... Installed and same symptoms than before, never a green light and I have to unplug the power to turn it off. The V2 base works fine with the BMW Rim and the F1 Rim... playing with no issues with those rims on PC and PS4. I have installed Driver 226 and Firmware 116... I can see that with my BMW Rim... PC does not recognize the HUB, so I don't know what is in there. Please advice V2 Base ClubSport V3 Pedals.... A Fanatec Costumer for many years... Very frustrating.
Alfonso, delete the driver on your pc and try downgrading fw to 094 with driver V219. Attach everything BUT the hub or BMW rim!!!! When the update is done, the base light should be green !!! Turn the base off, attach the hub, turn on your base, the light should still be green, and on display it should say 'CAL' --> press black wheel menu to see S-1manually centre wheel and press the three striped button and A simultaneously to calibrate wheel centre. After that you should be good to go. If the base light turns green after downgrading but the hub isn't recognized, try turning the hex screws inside the center, at the back of hub, tighter...and maybe on your base to. The connectors of the hub to base or base to hub might be to loose. There were some issues with that reported in the early days of base and hub.
Antoine I did the downgrade before I saw your message and still the same.. But when I did it I had the BMW rim on it. Before I erase everything and try again.. Forgive me if I sound stupid, all this is done through the pc (then connect to XBOX One Correct?) or there is a way to do this just with the xbox? Again, sorry if I sound stupid, but i want to make sure that I am not overlooking something.
I spoke online this morning with one of their techs (Fabian) , he was the one that told me to downgrade, he said that if that didn't work that they wanted me to send the V2 Base and the HUB for them to figure it out. Hopefully you can help me find a solution , I don't want to be with out my "toy" for a couple of weeks, I need my daily fix of Project cars or Assetto Corsa.
I don't know if this helps.. the little display (with the 3 digits) doesn't get illuminated completely, i can see that some power is going to it but is very faint... it's weird like no enough juice gets to the hub... And as I mention before the only way to turn it off is to unplug,
The update/downgrade process can only been done by pc. First try the little hex screws tightening process as described above...I have a hunch that that's your problem... Just downgrade again WITHOUT the rim and hub. First thing you need to get sorted out is that your base SHOULD startup with the power button of the base with green light as a default!!! So each time you power base off and on that light should be green...if that's not the case...unfortunately then it's time to send your base and hub to RMA!! If it does light up green...that's the first step to going forward...and follow my instructions again as posted above.
No luck with the green light Fortunately I spoke again with Fabian at Costumer support and they are asking me to send back the HUB and the V2 base. I know that things happen and I hope that they find what the problem is . I should say that Fanatec had a bad rep for costumer support in the past, so far they have been great , they have gone out of their way to help.
No luck with the green light Fortunately I spoke again with Fabian at Costumer support and they are asking me to send back the HUB and the V2 base. I know that things happen and I hope that they find what the problem is . I should say that Fanatec had a bad rep for costumer support in the past, so far they have been great , they have gone out of their way to help.
If you follow the suggestions I made, you can get 2.5 centimetres (1 inch) closer. That being, turn the bracket that holds the paddle around and move the hinge to the forward set of threaded holes on the hub. And, if you still need more, remove the paddles from the bracket. Go to the hardware store and get 4 screws (2 per side) that are as long as you need ( 2, 2.5, 3 centimetres). If you can't find flat counter sunk screws, get allen head screws. Also get a hollow metal sleeve for each screw, appropriate length. Now, fit the screws through the front of the paddles (they are currently mounted from the back) with the spacer sleeve over the screw, and thread into the bracket.
See the attached pic for an example. I just got some spares from my small parts box. For the sleeve, you could use a 1/4 Iron Pipe Nipple or something similar. They come down to 1 inch. Or you could cut/grind it to the length you need. Spray pain it matt black to match with rust paint.
Khashy, that looks like it should work. I would have reversed the 2 L shaped brackets and moved them to the second set of tapped holes on the side of the hub. That would have moved everything a good inch or more closer to to your wheel. You could have got away with shorter extensions. But, hey, if your solution works that's great.
Comments
The first one was RMA... Got the new one today... Installed and same symptoms than before, never a green light and I have to unplug the power to turn it off. The V2 base works fine with the BMW Rim and the F1 Rim... playing with no issues with those rims on PC and PS4.
I have installed Driver 226 and Firmware 116... I can see that with my BMW Rim... PC does not recognize the HUB, so I don't know what is in there.
Please advice
V2 Base
ClubSport V3 Pedals.... A Fanatec Costumer for many years... Very frustrating.
If the base light turns green after downgrading but the hub isn't recognized, try turning the hex screws inside the center, at the back of hub, tighter...and maybe on your base to. The connectors of the hub to base or base to hub might be to loose.
There were some issues with that reported in the early days of base and hub.
Good luck with it!!
I did the downgrade before I saw your message and still the same.. But when I did it I had the BMW rim on it.
Before I erase everything and try again.. Forgive me if I sound stupid, all this is done through the pc (then connect to XBOX One Correct?) or there is a way to do this just with the xbox? Again, sorry if I sound stupid, but i want to make sure that I am not overlooking something.
I spoke online this morning with one of their techs (Fabian) , he was the one that told me to downgrade, he said that if that didn't work that they wanted me to send the V2 Base and the HUB for them to figure it out. Hopefully you can help me find a solution , I don't want to be with out my "toy" for a couple of weeks, I need my daily fix of Project cars or Assetto Corsa.
I don't know if this helps.. the little display (with the 3 digits) doesn't get illuminated completely, i can see that some power is going to it but is very faint... it's weird like no enough juice gets to the hub... And as I mention before the only way to turn it off is to unplug,
First try the little hex screws tightening process as described above...I have a hunch that that's your problem...
Just downgrade again WITHOUT the rim and hub.
First thing you need to get sorted out is that your base SHOULD startup with the power button of the base with green light as a default!!! So each time you power base off and on that light should be green...if that's not the case...unfortunately then it's time to send your base and hub to RMA!!
If it does light up green...that's the first step to going forward...and follow my instructions again as posted above.
Thanks again for your help...
No luck with the green light Fortunately I spoke again with Fabian at Costumer support and they are asking me to send back the HUB and the V2 base. I know that things happen and I hope that they find what the problem is . I should say that Fanatec had a bad rep for costumer support in the past, so far they have been great , they have gone out of their way to help.
Thanks again for your help...
No luck with the green light Fortunately I spoke again with Fabian at Costumer support and they are asking me to send back the HUB and the V2 base. I know that things happen and I hope that they find what the problem is . I should say that Fanatec had a bad rep for costumer support in the past, so far they have been great , they have gone out of their way to help.
I really hope so.. I played the demo with a regular gamepad and it looks good...
<a href="http://s138.photobucket.com/user/slammed06/media/2014-05/14F34C41-F824-4D3C-8851-29A78A617D2E_zpsfcpu3rfa.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q254/slammed06/2014-05/14F34C41-F824-4D3C-8851-29A78A617D2E_zpsfcpu3rfa.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 14F34C41-F824-4D3C-8851-29A78A617D2E_zpsfcpu3rfa.jpg"/></a>
Here is what I did