that is exactly what I ass-u-me-d , but it never hurts to ask ...I was wondering if that being loose or out of position would be the cause of loss of throttle input . seems it was on my V2 pedals... would not explain the brake issue ... I just have never had either issue the entire time on Xbox/FM5-6V219
and when you ask a question , a lot of people tuning in just had a question they had, but were afraid to ask for fear of being thought "stupid" answered... I never fear being thought stupid just unknowledgeable... So if anyone has a stupid question , private message me and I will ask it and learn with you.... Joe Rugo VPSQDS all companies should have one
ps I did notice the OCD for righties layout.. hope you have a better night racing . By the way I did some wheel rotation testing the last couple of days ..... now my F-150 has a stop to stop of a bit over 900 degrees .... make a right hander at speed @ 90 to 180 of rotation .... now my Solstice , that's an entirely different story... 5*- 10* and I've changes lanes 15*-20* and it left or right I go ..... 180* well I ain't testing that ... but I figure it leads to spin recovery .... I forgot to determine the stop to stop ... guess I 'll have to test that tomorrow
Those things never need adjustment... But if they do these are the screws you check... you pull them out and there should be a hole lined up for the screw head to fit into to lock it in place... as long as that hole is lined up for the head of the screw to fit into the magnet is properly lined. up
that set screw was going to be my next idea... and for all... that is one of the screws that is very easy to mess up the threads on and a bit difficult to know when you have proper alignment... for some reason I know this LOL ... but I had an issue with the screws holding the hall sensor itself on loosening up and the sensors working out of position ... if I repositioned it and tighten the screws GENTLY .. the issue went away ... just something to take a look at if you have an issue...... I can say that I have not hand it with the V3's ... okay back to braking going backwards training
I want to make it perfectly clear that there are no dumb questions on this forum. We have a great bunch of men and women that support each other and do so kindly and with a bit of humor. I am very proud of you all! Thank you for making my job enjoyable.
I want to apologize to you for my comments yesterday... it was a long day and some times we as people the little things bother us more than they are supposed to... The Pedal issue is Not your doing Nor is it your Fault... Please accept my Humble and Sincere apology for taking the frustration out on you.... it was just 1 of those days for Me... Please continue the Great work that you do it is appreciated yes even by Me.
L.Waddell aka Grimey Dog
All good Grimey, no offense taken.
BTW I do not own any consoles so my work and testing is on PC only.
I want to make it perfectly clear that there are no dumb questions on this forum. We have a great bunch of men and women that support each other and do so kindly and with a bit of humor. I am very proud of you all! Thank you for making my job enjoyable.
Chris Community Manager
Chris, as the VP SQDS.. may I take polite exception with your comment...... there is a stupid question, it is the one you don't ask. Knowledge is power... sharing it makes it more powerful.
I want to make it perfectly clear that there are no dumb questions on this forum. We have a great bunch of men and women that support each other and do so kindly and with a bit of humor. I am very proud of you all! Thank you for making my job enjoyable.
Chris Community Manager
Chris, as the VP SQDS.. may I take polite exception with your comment...... there is a stupid question, it is the one you don't ask. Knowledge is power... sharing it makes it more powerful.
So far I am using Driver version 226 on the PC along with Pedal Firmware 1.12 and all is fine .
No issues to report on the PC running IRacing - Asseto Corsa.
On the XboxOne running Project Cars and Forza 6.
Here are a few tips to troubleshoot your pedals.
1 - For those of you having intermittent dead zone issues with the throttle or clutch pedal. Check to be sure the setscrews ( grubscrews ) are tight
This would be the most common cause. If restarting your console temporarily solves the issue this is due to the pivot pin rotating during use and this will result in a misalignment of the pivot pin magnet in relation to the hall sensor.
2 - The base or platform you use to mount your pedal set on must be flat and rigid and the pedals must be bolted on the four corners.
If not then this could have the effect of a misaligned pedal frame which would cause pedal return problems and linkage bind.
3 - brake application issues can be as simple as reconnecting the loadcell connector to the circuitboard or properly lubricating the PU Foam to remove any stiction in the pedal block bore.
@ Dave , could I ask a favor... would you post a pic of the set screws you are speaking of... I think I know what you are talking about , but a pic make it really clear ... if it is to hard for you to do because of your set up .. let me know and I'll do it with mine.. that connection is the same as the V2's ?? And yes , this helps ...
@ Dave , and your recommendation for lubrication of the PU foam ... < polyurethane foam , for those like me who two weeks ago had no clue what that meant.
Joe Rugo i wish the Problem was that Simple... Those are the same Screws i posted in the pic a few post up... IMO DR 226 wheel and Pedal FW is Broken...
Is their any one using 226 on PS4 or XB1 that is Not having the Random Pedal Reading Issue???
Thanks , Ok made a copy in case needed...It's what I thought he was talking about but wanted to be sure... FYI: I may have found the cause of my wheel not cycleing fully on power up... the tuning LED apparently came a bit loose.. not 100% sure but it hasn't happened again so far.
@ Grimey - No random throttle or clutch issues whatsoever here on the XboxOne .
And in my case after doing some tests with the latest pedal firmware (1.12 ) I noticed that the ABS vibration motor signal strength has been increased compared to firmware (1.09 ) which was the factory installed firmware on my pedal set.
@ Joe - yes the setscrews are the ones that Grimey posted earlier. These screws are amongst the most common problems on all the pedal versions.
To all -To put it simply Firmware is a way of communication between devices. It basically comprises of instructions for each device connected together - so that the devices understand each other.
Firmware will either work or not work - it can not cause random issues - it can create a conflict between devices but would happen only if the conflicted devices were at the time of the issues in communication with each other.
Random issues are caused by an actual mechanical connection between devices (example - loose wire connections - sudden loss of voltage between devices - loose screws etc etc .
In the case of the setscrews - this has been an issue since 2009 on the V1 pedal sets.
The throttle and clutch use a pivot pin with an epoxied magnet at one end of the pin - at the magnet end is the hall sensor with it`s installation being very close to the magnet - when we depress the pedal arm and release it the pedal arm movement results in rotation of the pivot pin/magnet - the hall sensor detect this movement and sees it as a minimum and maximum (pedal released - pedal depressed fully). This range of movement is automatically stored in the circuit board every time we start up a game and fully depress all pedals at least one time. if we temporarily loose the connection between the wheel and pedals or pedals and PC this would result in a loss of pedal calibration. in the case of (example - throttle or clutch not seeing 100% of movement in the game telemetry). This due to the pivot pin not being locked in it`s position and the hall senor not being able to read the magnet rotating to it`s full range.
Those were the First Screws i Checked before i locked the pedals down into their position....the Question is why does 226 lose calibration of all or just some pedals after a while??? If this issue were mechanical All the FW would do the same thing until the mechanical probleme, Loose Connection was fixed.... the Random issue only Happens with DR 226 Wheel and Pedal FW....When 226 works it feels great but play long enough and you will see.... how long have you been using 226???... I didn't Notice anything until about the 2nd or third day....then i Noticed that the issues were repetitive and Constant...just give it some time... Mean while on Dr 219 wheel and Pedal FW i dont Have any Problems at all.. No Random events.
Thanks Dave ... that is great information .. I pretty much had figured out the hall sensor {new word for me ] and the interaction between it and the magnet , since I had that issue with the V2's . Nice to know I was on the right path finally.
So, If I have it right ... we should power up the base , let it fully cycle until the three dashes appear in the LED , and then depress fully each of the pedals .. throttle, brake, and clutch... correct
Also, my assumption was that if you have a loose hall senson mount , it to could affect the input ?
thanks for the info ., I'm sure I am grateful but also sure others are as well..
@ Joe - yes if you have a loose sensor mount this could result in loss a pedal calibration ( sensor to magnet gap must remain within tolerences) that gap is very small and will not tolerate any deviation during pedal movement.
Only depress each pedal once you have fully entered the game ( preferably just before you start the race on the track ) This must be done each time you exit or close the game - once you leave the game all calibration is lost
@ Grimey - well let`s see - I have been running my V3 pedals for a month now on a regular basis - went from firmware 1.09 to 1.12 as soon as it came out.
I do not have much time to go through all the posts here therefor I will need more info from you.
from what I read so far is that the problems you have seem to be random - does it effect all the axis ( throttle -brake - clutch )??
Do you have all software and firmware matched ( wheel firmware - pedal firmware - PC software) if not you must have the proper versions installed. ??
Have you tried to disconnect one accessory at a time ( shifter - usb hub - handbrake etc. etc.) to see if the symptoms go away ??
Is your rig made of metal or wood. ??
are you running your setup on a carpet or hardwood floor.??
Does it happen only on a PC or console or on both. ??
any and all questions are important to be able to properly diagnose you problem.
For those that have run the v2 pedals and now running the v3 how much better are they? I am really liking my v2 base and xb1 hub and am considering the new pedals. Is the upgrade worth the price?
@ Dave, I'm thinkng static electricity can cause issues , judging by at least two of your questions. I have the CSL seat , mounted on a wooden base , which has plastic casters to roll it around ... see any issue that may arise?
No hurry on the answer .. at you convenience. And thanks for the time once again .
Ive had the pedals since Aug and use them daily 3 to 5hrs PS4 ... Never had the Random pedal issue until FW 226.... Been using Fanatec Gear from 2010... Not getting into this convo again...Good luck glad it works for you...
@Marco, they are a definite improvement ... better connection to base , the two spring rates for the clutch and pedal give you immediate flexibility to get the feel you desire. Also there is a "BRF" setting in the tuning menu which allows you to adjust brake pressure without turning the dial on the pedals. If you want more flexibility in pedal feel .. there is the damper kits. Don't have to go hog wild on those at first. Try the pedals , if you want , order one damper, they are the same for brake and throttle . Try the damper on each and if you like them , you can always order second later..
I had the same set up you have now , and currently have the set up you are thinking of. And I am not a bit sorry I did so. All that said you have a perfectly capable set of pedals . It is sort of like having an Ipod mini versus an ipod touch... does that make sense.
read the manual , read some of the post on this blog .. it will help you make the right decision.
Joe thanks for the reply it helped greatly and I think I will be ordering a set. This is my first fanatec setup and I love it, so much better than thrustmaster tx. I am actually glad my tx wheel took a dump and customer service took over 2 weeks to get back to me!
@ Marco , I have a TX in the attic... about 2hrs on it ... want it ?? cheap?? just kidding .. glad to be of some help .. when they arrive make sure you do the update of firmware correctly ... it's easy , but normally somebody is checking in here to help .. us newbies have to stick together . If needed you can message me via the tab on my profile ... enjoy
Again...to all who have pedal problems. I HAD brake and Throttle issues. The brake issues were solved by using Grimeys golden tip. Take the brake apart, a few drops of dry lube in it..brake back together and gone was that problem. The throttle issue. Took the hall sensor housing of the pedal and I noticed there was some grease on the pedal frame and also on the magnet in the pedal frame. I think the grease was a factory doing, cause everyone seemed to have grease coming of the spring bars etc. So I took a dry cloth, cleaned the pedal frame and magnet, and put the hall sensor housing back in its place. And gone was the throttle problem!!! Grimey, just try that!! We don't know if the Driver 226 fw is designed to be more sensitive as the 219 was.
Ps. My RS1 frame, with rubber wheels, has electric static as hell because of the V2 base. But I don't have any issues anymore since cleaning the magnet!!
I'm finally going to my first Fanatec product - I'm ordering some CSPv3 and I'd like your assistance in getting thing right at ordering. The pedals are intended to be used on PC with a G27 wheel, as a second controller via USB. Now:
- Do I need to order separately an USB cable or is it the one included in-box on the CSPv3?
- I thought it would be a good idea to order also right from the beginning a replacement load cell. I can't find it anywhere on the site, only the one for the v2 pedals. are they available?
- I'm thinking of getting the optional damper. What are you thoughts about it? Have just one in the pedals I supposed it would make sense to use it on the brake. Am I right?
@ Sergio, I can't speak to the G27 since all my gear is Fanatec, however ,
a USB cable is included
I don't see a need for a load cell and they are most likely not available a retail item yet., but you can check with customer support. I have three Fanatec pedal set and have never had to replace a load cell .. pretty sure Fanatec will make them available at later date.
The damper , order one , test it on the brake and throttle ..... with me , I found no need to use one on the brake and use mine on the throttle. others use once on each , it's a matter of personal preference. Again, you can always order a second later.
when your pedals arrive you can always check back and someone will help you with the firmware update and set up if needed. In the meantime it is probably a good idea to download the manual from the product page and read through it ahead of time.
Comments
that is exactly what I ass-u-me-d , but it never hurts to ask ...I was wondering if that being loose or out of position would be the cause of loss of throttle input . seems it was on my V2 pedals... would not explain the brake issue ... I just have never had either issue the entire time on Xbox/FM5-6V219
and when you ask a question , a lot of people tuning in just had a question they had, but were afraid to ask for fear of being thought "stupid" answered... I never fear being thought stupid just unknowledgeable... So if anyone has a stupid question , private message me and I will ask it and learn with you.... Joe Rugo VPSQDS all companies should have one
ps I did notice the OCD for righties layout.. hope you have a better night racing . By the way I did some wheel rotation testing the last couple of days ..... now my F-150 has a stop to stop of a bit over 900 degrees .... make a right hander at speed @ 90 to 180 of rotation .... now my Solstice , that's an entirely different story... 5*- 10* and I've changes lanes 15*-20* and it left or right I go ..... 180* well I ain't testing that ... but I figure it leads to spin recovery .... I forgot to determine the stop to stop ... guess I 'll have to test that tomorrow
Chris
Community Manager
BTW I do not own any consoles so my work and testing is on PC only.
So true. I stand corrected.
So far I am using Driver version 226 on the PC along with Pedal Firmware 1.12 and all is fine .
No issues to report on the PC running IRacing - Asseto Corsa.
On the XboxOne running Project Cars and Forza 6.
Here are a few tips to troubleshoot your pedals.
1 - For those of you having intermittent dead zone issues with the throttle or clutch pedal. Check to be sure the setscrews ( grubscrews ) are tight
This would be the most common cause. If restarting your console temporarily solves the issue this is due to the pivot pin rotating during use and this will result in a misalignment of the pivot pin magnet in relation to the hall sensor.
2 - The base or platform you use to mount your pedal set on must be flat and rigid and the pedals must be bolted on the four corners.
If not then this could have the effect of a misaligned pedal frame which would cause pedal return problems and linkage bind.
3 - brake application issues can be as simple as reconnecting the loadcell connector to the circuitboard or properly lubricating the PU Foam to remove any stiction in the pedal block bore.
hope this helps.
Is their any one using 226 on PS4 or XB1 that is Not having the Random Pedal Reading Issue???
@ Grimey - No random throttle or clutch issues whatsoever here on the XboxOne .
And in my case after doing some tests with the latest pedal firmware (1.12 ) I noticed that the ABS vibration motor signal strength has been increased compared to firmware (1.09 ) which was the factory installed firmware on my pedal set.
@ Joe - yes the setscrews are the ones that Grimey posted earlier. These screws are amongst the most common problems on all the pedal versions.
To all -To put it simply Firmware is a way of communication between devices. It basically comprises of instructions for each device connected together - so that the devices understand each other.
Firmware will either work or not work - it can not cause random issues - it can create a conflict between devices but would happen only if the conflicted devices were at the time of the issues in communication with each other.
Random issues are caused by an actual mechanical connection between devices (example - loose wire connections - sudden loss of voltage between devices - loose screws etc etc .
In the case of the setscrews - this has been an issue since 2009 on the V1 pedal sets.
The throttle and clutch use a pivot pin with an epoxied magnet at one end of the pin - at the magnet end is the hall sensor with it`s installation being very close to the magnet - when we depress the pedal arm and release it the pedal arm movement results in rotation of the pivot pin/magnet - the hall sensor detect this movement and sees it as a minimum and maximum (pedal released - pedal depressed fully). This range of movement is automatically stored in the circuit board every time we start up a game and fully depress all pedals at least one time. if we temporarily loose the connection between the wheel and pedals or pedals and PC this would result in a loss of pedal calibration. in the case of (example - throttle or clutch not seeing 100% of movement in the game telemetry). This due to the pivot pin not being locked in it`s position and the hall senor not being able to read the magnet rotating to it`s full range.
Thanks Dave ... that is great information .. I pretty much had figured out the hall sensor {new word for me ] and the interaction between it and the magnet , since I had that issue with the V2's . Nice to know I was on the right path finally.
So, If I have it right ... we should power up the base , let it fully cycle until the three dashes appear in the LED , and then depress fully each of the pedals .. throttle, brake, and clutch... correct
Also, my assumption was that if you have a loose hall senson mount , it to could affect the input ?
thanks for the info ., I'm sure I am grateful but also sure others are as well..
@ Joe - yes if you have a loose sensor mount this could result in loss a pedal calibration ( sensor to magnet gap must remain within tolerences) that gap is very small and will not tolerate any deviation during pedal movement.
Only depress each pedal once you have fully entered the game ( preferably just before you start the race on the track ) This must be done each time you exit or close the game - once you leave the game all calibration is lost
@ Grimey.
@ Grimey - well let`s see - I have been running my V3 pedals for a month now on a regular basis - went from firmware 1.09 to 1.12 as soon as it came out.
I do not have much time to go through all the posts here therefor I will need more info from you.
from what I read so far is that the problems you have seem to be random - does it effect all the axis ( throttle -brake - clutch )??
Do you have all software and firmware matched ( wheel firmware - pedal firmware - PC software) if not you must have the proper versions installed. ??
Have you tried to disconnect one accessory at a time ( shifter - usb hub - handbrake etc. etc.) to see if the symptoms go away ??
Is your rig made of metal or wood. ??
are you running your setup on a carpet or hardwood floor.??
Does it happen only on a PC or console or on both. ??
any and all questions are important to be able to properly diagnose you problem.
@ Dave, I'm thinkng static electricity can cause issues , judging by at least two of your questions. I have the CSL seat , mounted on a wooden base , which has plastic casters to roll it around ... see any issue that may arise?
No hurry on the answer .. at you convenience. And thanks for the time once again .
@Marco, they are a definite improvement ... better connection to base , the two spring rates for the clutch and pedal give you immediate flexibility to get the feel you desire. Also there is a "BRF" setting in the tuning menu which allows you to adjust brake pressure without turning the dial on the pedals. If you want more flexibility in pedal feel .. there is the damper kits. Don't have to go hog wild on those at first. Try the pedals , if you want , order one damper, they are the same for brake and throttle . Try the damper on each and if you like them , you can always order second later..
I had the same set up you have now , and currently have the set up you are thinking of. And I am not a bit sorry I did so. All that said you have a perfectly capable set of pedals . It is sort of like having an Ipod mini versus an ipod touch... does that make sense.
read the manual , read some of the post on this blog .. it will help you make the right decision.
hope that helps.
Grimey, just try that!! We don't know if the Driver 226 fw is designed to be more sensitive as the 219 was.
Ps. My RS1 frame, with rubber wheels, has electric static as hell because of the V2 base. But I don't have any issues anymore since cleaning the magnet!!
@ Sergio, I can't speak to the G27 since all my gear is Fanatec, however ,
a USB cable is included
I don't see a need for a load cell and they are most likely not available a retail item yet., but you can check with customer support. I have three Fanatec pedal set and have never had to replace a load cell .. pretty sure Fanatec will make them available at later date.
The damper , order one , test it on the brake and throttle ..... with me , I found no need to use one on the brake and use mine on the throttle. others use once on each , it's a matter of personal preference. Again, you can always order a second later.
when your pedals arrive you can always check back and someone will help you with the firmware update and set up if needed. In the meantime it is probably a good idea to download the manual from the product page and read through it ahead of time.