All good points, Joe. Sergio, yes, when you get your pedals you have to connect your new V3 pedals to your PC with the supplied USB cable. Go to the Fanatec home page, log in, click the Downloads tab, select your product and platform from the drop down lists. Download the latest driver/firmware (32 bit or 64 bit as required for your PC). Unzip the download. Connect your pedals to the PC. Run the .exe which will install the software short cut on your desktop. Click on the "F" icon and the set-up window should open and your pedals should be recognized. Click on Properties, follow the prompts.
And as Joe suggested, read the manual. There is a lot of important information in there that is not included in the quick guide. And you will need it to connect your damper(s) if you decide to go that route. And to get set up with your G27 wheel.
@ Trevor, the best I can describe it .. it makes you think about applying throttle. Also, it reduces the slap back of the throttle , if that makes sense. I use one exclusively on the throttle and mostly with RWD high horsepower cars .. it makes it a bit more difficult to go full throttle and spin the rear tires... not that you can't do it ..you just have to think about doing it... hope that makes some sense.
I was thinking about this after my last post ... if you race in shoes, definitely for the throttle. I you race with socks , optional but nice to have. They are easy to install and remove once you get past the first installation. You for sure can wear the bottom of your foot out on long races.
Again...to all who have pedal problems. I HAD brake and Throttle issues. The brake issues were solved by using Grimeys golden tip. Take the brake apart, a few drops of dry lube in it..brake back together and gone was that problem. The throttle issue. Took the hall sensor housing of the pedal and I noticed there was some grease on the pedal frame and also on the magnet in the pedal frame. I think the grease was a factory doing, cause everyone seemed to have grease coming of the spring bars etc. So I took a dry cloth, cleaned the pedal frame and magnet, and put the hall sensor housing back in its place. And gone was the throttle problem!!! Grimey, just try that!! We don't know if the Driver 226 fw is designed to be more sensitive as the 219 was.
Ps. My RS1 frame, with rubber wheels, has electric static as hell because of the V2 base. But I don't have any issues anymore since cleaning the magnet!!
Ok Antoine I Have Taken the Hall Sensors off Cleaned them... There was Little to No Dirt or Grease... The Screws were a Tad bit loose but Not to the point that they would Fall out they were just Snugly in place... Seemed Loose enough that Maybe there could be a little Flexing Issue.... But any way i have done all that you suggested and i am Re-Flashing 226 FW to Wheel and Pedals Now... If this works I Will Find You and I Will Huggg You =D> If Not well Back to B*☆ch!n about it and 219... LOL
Again...to all who have pedal problems. I HAD brake and Throttle issues. The brake issues were solved by using Grimeys golden tip. Take the brake apart, a few drops of dry lube in it..brake back together and gone was that problem. The throttle issue. Took the hall sensor housing of the pedal and I noticed there was some grease on the pedal frame and also on the magnet in the pedal frame. I think the grease was a factory doing, cause everyone seemed to have grease coming of the spring bars etc. So I took a dry cloth, cleaned the pedal frame and magnet, and put the hall sensor housing back in its place. And gone was the throttle problem!!! Grimey, just try that!! We don't know if the Driver 226 fw is designed to be more sensitive as the 219 was.
Ps. My RS1 frame, with rubber wheels, has electric static as hell because of the V2 base. But I don't have any issues anymore since cleaning the magnet!!
All Steps Followed and Completed... The Result is a Fail!!! It's frustrating to have to Re-Start the Wheel Over and Over to get the Pedals to Read Right.
Conclusion... Driver 226 wheel and Pedal FW is BROKEN!!!.... Bottom Line.
@ Antoine - If you are running the pedals on a PC you only need to do the pedal calibration once in the Fanatec program - from that point on the calibration is saved on the PC.
If you run on consoles - you must depress each pedal once or more times before starting a race - this is due to there not being any calibration software to install on the console - the process is taken care of in each individual game.
Example - Driver version 226 is a PC based software that is not for console use. - when you download the driver 226 package there is also several firmware versions to be installed on each peripheral. A PC is necessary to install the various firmware versions but the driver is for PC use only.
Note - static electricity is not generally a problem for any electronic device unless there is a faulty ground issue as this is the only way to prevent it from building up in the device.
Some of the worst cases of static build up is caused by polyester carpeting and during the winter months using electric heating to heat your home. There are several ways to reduce the side effects but devices that are properly grounded are the best way to do it.
Anybody know if these pedals are shipping? I just ordered a set and I ask because everything I have preordered has shipped early. Hoping these will too.
The Good thing is ive Cleaned the Pedals Magnets and Hall sensors...1 less problem to worry about... i went back to Dr 219 Wheel and Pedal FW... its been and is working Very well....
Tried FM6 again and I Just Dunno Steering Waaay to Twitchy Turn10 and their Dam 270°DOR!!!
Grimey, do you use fw 116 for the V2 base and fw 1.12 for the V3 pedals BOTH out of Driver version 226 ? When having the issue?? Then I'm gonna do a fresh installation by first going back to fw 110 out of Driver version 219 for the base and fw 1.08 for the pedals. Then I'll update with V226 on base and pedals tonight. I'll let you know again if I experience any issues!!
@ Antoine - If you are running the pedals on a PC you only need to do the pedal calibration once in the Fanatec program - from that point on the calibration is saved on the PC.
If you run on consoles - you must depress each pedal once or more times before starting a race - this is due to there not being any calibration software to install on the console - the process is taken care of in each individual game.
Example - Driver version 226 is a PC based software that is not for console use. - when you download the driver 226 package there is also several firmware versions to be installed on each peripheral. A PC is necessary to install the various firmware versions but the driver is for PC use only.
For the moment, I'm only racing on consoles. I used the auto calibration process in the function test window and never done the: press each pedal before using in game for first time. Don't have any issues with any of the pedals any more. Don't the pedal settings get saved in the auto save function??
Again...to all who have pedal problems. I HAD brake and Throttle issues. The brake issues were solved by using Grimeys golden tip. Take the brake apart, a few drops of dry lube in it..brake back together and gone was that problem. The throttle issue. Took the hall sensor housing of the pedal and I noticed there was some grease on the pedal frame and also on the magnet in the pedal frame. I think the grease was a factory doing, cause everyone seemed to have grease coming of the spring bars etc. So I took a dry cloth, cleaned the pedal frame and magnet, and put the hall sensor housing back in its place. And gone was the throttle problem!!! Grimey, just try that!! We don't know if the Driver 226 fw is designed to be more sensitive as the 219 was.
Ps. My RS1 frame, with rubber wheels, has electric static as hell because of the V2 base. But I don't have any issues anymore since cleaning the magnet!!
All Steps Followed and Completed... The Result is a Fail!!! It's frustrating to have to Re-Start the Wheel Over and Over to get the Pedals to Read Right.
Conclusion... Driver 226 wheel and Pedal FW is BROKEN!!!.... Bottom Line.
Was that picture taken when you pressed all pedals 100% down?
In general, how much % signal loss are people seeing with the firmware included with driver 226?
Remco Gas and Clutch Pedals were Pressed Fully Down... The Brake pedal was Pressed 75% or so... The Brake is Stiff so i couldnt press it fully down... Brake pedal was Reading Correctly... Its a Random issue that was the 3rd time it happend when i took the Pic...The First time it was only the Clutch that was Reading 50% Gas and Brake were Full, Second Time it was All 3 pedals Reading 50% and the Third time is the Pici posted it was Gas and Clutch Reading only 50% and Brake Pedal was Reading correctly... Its Random the issue will happen with 1,2 or All 3 Pedals in any Combination...When it doe's happen what ever Pedal its with will always be Just 50% of the Norm. Thats the only Constant is its always Half throttle, Brake or Clutch when Pedals are fully depressed.
we are working on a new official firmware for the CSP V3. Please feel free to test this new firmware version and let us know your experience. For any issue which is still present it would be much appreciated if you could mention clear details how the issue is coming up, how it looks and how we should be possible to reproduce it.
THX!
P.S.: Please do NOT spread this firmware outside this forum/blog right now. There will be no official support as this is still a test firmware which will be definitely modified until it will be a public release version.
Grimey, first reinstall driver 226, install fw 116 out of this driver. Then update the V3 pedals manually, with this new unzipped file above, by choosing the hex file in the pedal window manually.
Yes Just pedal FW. BEEN there Done THAT The fw 116 out of driver V226 and the fw 1.13 combo is also great...BUT I DIDN'T experience any issues anymore after the hall senor cleaning as you know by now....SO this is YOUR chance to shine Grimey ) ) ) This one is all up to you !!
BUT I sure will try downgrading and updating again to see if I can create the issue !! Only, this has to wait till tomorrow, as I have to do some in house jobs first!
Way to go guys. Keep giving feedback in great detail. They can't fix or improve something if they aren't clear what the problem is. You are all helping out a LOT! Everyone at Fanatec appreciates your help and patience. We know you want issues solved quickly, as do we. But it takes time. With your help it really enables us to work quicker. Again we thank you all.
I would personally like to say thank you for being courteous not only to each other but the Fanatec staff. Armin and his entire team work very hard. They DO hear you. And they work as fast as they can. Thank you for helping them build a better product.
Comments
@ Trevor, the best I can describe it .. it makes you think about applying throttle. Also, it reduces the slap back of the throttle , if that makes sense. I use one exclusively on the throttle and mostly with RWD high horsepower cars .. it makes it a bit more difficult to go full throttle and spin the rear tires... not that you can't do it ..you just have to think about doing it... hope that makes some sense.
I was thinking about this after my last post ... if you race in shoes, definitely for the throttle. I you race with socks , optional but nice to have. They are easy to install and remove once you get past the first installation. You for sure can wear the bottom of your foot out on long races.
Ps. I didn't even know you'd have to push every pedal before the first race when starting fresh. I don't and don't have issues since cleaning.
All Steps Followed and Completed... The Result is a Fail!!! It's frustrating to have to Re-Start the Wheel Over and Over to get the Pedals to Read Right.
Conclusion... Driver 226 wheel and Pedal FW is BROKEN!!!.... Bottom Line.
@ Antoine - If you are running the pedals on a PC you only need to do the pedal calibration once in the Fanatec program - from that point on the calibration is saved on the PC.
If you run on consoles - you must depress each pedal once or more times before starting a race - this is due to there not being any calibration software to install on the console - the process is taken care of in each individual game.
Example - Driver version 226 is a PC based software that is not for console use. - when you download the driver 226 package there is also several firmware versions to be installed on each peripheral. A PC is necessary to install the various firmware versions but the driver is for PC use only.
Note - static electricity is not generally a problem for any electronic device unless there is a faulty ground issue as this is the only way to prevent it from building up in the device.
Some of the worst cases of static build up is caused by polyester carpeting and during the winter months using electric heating to heat your home. There are several ways to reduce the side effects but devices that are properly grounded are the best way to do it.
Tried FM6 again and I Just Dunno Steering Waaay to Twitchy Turn10 and their Dam 270°DOR!!!
Then I'm gonna do a fresh installation by first going back to fw 110 out of Driver version 219 for the base and fw 1.08 for the pedals. Then I'll update with V226 on base and pedals tonight.
I'll let you know again if I experience any issues!!
Also i Flashed Dvr 226 Wheel and Pedal FW.... It always it Starts off working but Fails after a while...its Random.
In general, how much % signal loss are people seeing with the firmware included with driver 226?
Im Feeling Very Motivated by this \:D/
I would personally like to say thank you for being courteous not only to each other but the Fanatec staff. Armin and his entire team work very hard. They DO hear you. And they work as fast as they can. Thank you for helping them build a better product.