I think it is a software problem which can only be solved by a new firmware. But Fanatec does not seem to be aware of this problem.
Hi Marc,
did you already report the problem to the Fanatec Support? If the BRF setting in the wheel does not make any difference then there is an issue which has to be analyzed. Please contact them and send them a video. It would be best to show the driver window. Put a constant pressure on the brake (BRF 60) and the brake bar should show ~50%. And then change the BRF setting in the wheel WITHOUT changing the pressure on the load cell. If the value/bar does not change then there is a clear issue which has to be checked.
I think it is a software problem which can only be solved by a new firmware. But Fanatec does not seem to be aware of this problem.
Hi Marc,
did you already report the problem to the Fanatec Support? If the BRF setting in the wheel does not make any difference then there is an issue which has to be analyzed. Please contact them and send them a video. It would be best to show the driver window. Put a constant pressure on the brake (BRF 60) and the brake bar should show ~50%. And then change the BRF setting in the wheel WITHOUT changing the pressure on the load cell. If the value/bar does not change then there is a clear issue which has to be checked.
the change of the BRF-setting makes a difference, but the difference is much too small. When BRF is e. g. 30, I need only to tap the brake pedal to reach full brake force. If I increase the BRF-Value from 30 to 40, 50 ... up to 100 there is a successive difference after every change but much too small. Even at BRF 100 you need only a few cm of pedal travel to reach full brake force.
Also there is no possibilty to prevent full brake force at all. This is especially important for cars without ABS. With the potentiometer of the old V2-pedals you had the possibilty to set the poti at e. g. 3 and prevent maximum brake force to be archivable even at full brake pull. I don't see this possibility at the V3 regardless if auto- or manual calbration is used.
If I set the slider to 8, perform the auto calibration by pressing every pedal once and click OK in pedal function test window and unplug the usb from my pc and use it via my base...which also is my default setting cause I play on consoles....I get the EXACT same responce and brake feel which I had in function test window.
With the potentiometer of the old V2-pedals you had the possibilty to set the poti at e. g. 3 and prevent maximum brake force to be archivable even at full brake pull. I don't see this possibility at the V3 regardless if auto- or manual calbration is used.
Ok, maybe the range of auto-calibration + BRF is too small for you and I cannot change that right now. BUT...what is the problem if you calibrate the brake pedal hard by using manual calibration?
With the potentiometer of the old V2-pedals you had the possibilty to set the poti at e. g. 3 and prevent maximum brake force to be archivable even at full brake pull. I don't see this possibility at the V3 regardless if auto- or manual calbration is used.
Ok, maybe the range of auto-calibration + BRF is too small for you and I cannot change that right now. BUT...what is the problem if you calibrate the brake pedal hard by using manual calibration?
the problem is that I don't want to calibrate the pedals every time I change the car. That is not the purpose of the introduction of BRF-Setting. At least I thought that the reason for that setting is/was to make a permanent new calibration redundant and to allow changes "on the fly" during the driving of the car...? If that is (no more) the case, where is the advantage of the V3 in comparison to the V2? The V2 had a potentiometer beside the pedal where I could stepless adjust brake force, the BRF-Setting of the V3 has steps of 10. Why are the steps not smaller (steps of 5)? Why is the range of BRF so small? I think this is a problem which can easily be solved by a new firmware. If you spread the range wider you could satisfy a lot more customer than at the moment...
Like i said before. I only play on consoles and I NEVER pushed all pedals before starting a race. I've got the EXACT same reading with each car I pick and even after I start playing after a couple a days. No changes in brake responce. Maybe in PCars try the pedal calibration once, and then it'll stay the same with every new car
Like i said before. I only play on consoles and I NEVER pushed all pedals before starting a race. I've got the EXACT same reading with each car I pick and even after I start playing after a couple a days. No changes in brake responce. Maybe in PCars try the pedal calibration once, and then it'll stay the same with every new car
Antoine, you don't get me. I too have the same reading in every pedal, but I want to change the reading by BRF-Seeting. Auto calibration is at the moment not usable for me because the calibration leads to a brake pedal which is much too sensitive and that is the case all the time with every car.
Like i said before. I only play on consoles and I NEVER pushed all pedals before starting a race. I've got the EXACT same reading with each car I pick and even after I start playing after a couple a days. No changes in brake responce. Maybe in PCars try the pedal calibration once, and then it'll stay the same with every new car
Antoine, you don't get me. I too have the same reading in every pedal, but I want to change the reading by BRF-Seeting. Auto calibration is at the moment not usable for me because the calibration leads to a brake pedal which is much too sensitive and that is the case all the time with every car.
At what nr have you set the brake stiffness level ? Mine is at zero ! And slider at 8. I've got the same feeling as in my own car...and I gotta push real hard to reach the end/top of the bar in FM6, PCars and function test.
With BrF set to 100 i have to almost Stand on the Pedal to get Full 100% Brakes... What do you have BrF set too??? 30 is Very sensitive and 100 is you Need to Push pedal 100% to get Full 100% Brake Force.... If you want it stiffer than that add a Damper to the Brake.
With the potentiometer of the old V2-pedals you had the possibilty to set the poti at e. g. 3 and prevent maximum brake force to be archivable even at full brake pull. I don't see this possibility at the V3 regardless if auto- or manual calbration is used.
Ok, maybe the range of auto-calibration + BRF is too small for you and I cannot change that right now. BUT...what is the problem if you calibrate the brake pedal hard by using manual calibration?
On a related note, for me the range of the brake sensitivity slider in the PC driver when connected through USB is also hardly useful. At 10, the brake resistance is in a nice and realistic region, but when moving one value to 9 it is already much more sensitive and you need to push the brake only a few cm or so to get full signal. After that, there's hardly any difference visible between the sensitivity settings, and they are all much too sensitive.
Ok, guys. THX for your report. We are checking if it is possible to extend the range of BRF. But it is not that easy. The request will be definitely reviewed now.
Ok, guys. THX for your report. We are checking if it is possible to extend the range of BRF. But it is not that easy. The request will be definitely reviewed now.
Thanks Armin. Thank you to community members for bringing this to light. Now we must be patient and see what or if anything can be done.
My Brake Damper came yesterday... Hooked up and all is well...Feels Good.
Question is How do we Set/use the Turn Screw to adjust Brake Stiffness without getting the Brake Pedal Spikes when your Not Pressing the Pedal... Im Not Complaining im just Not Realizing the usefullnes of the Brake adjustment Turn Screw yet when used with the Damper Kit.
@Grimey. Could you clarify what you mean by Brake Pedal Spikes, please. Is this a mechanical spike or an electronic spike? I connected my pedals to the lap top via usb and made an adjustment on both the silver knob on the damper and the red knob on the brake shaft. Both are easily accessible (mechanical) and I did not see any reaction on the blue bar graph (electronic) until I depressed the pedal.
@Grimey. Could you clarify what you mean by Brake Pedal Spikes, please. Is this a mechanical spike or an electronic spike? I connected my pedals to the lap top via usb and made an adjustment on both the silver knob on the damper and the red knob on the brake shaft. Both are easily accessible (mechanical) and I did not see any reaction on the blue bar graph (electronic) until I depressed the pedal.
Connect your pedals to the Wheel and Leave it on that Page for 10 min or More... Usually when im Tuning in PCars Car thats when i Notice it. No Deal Breaker Not Complaining just asking... Its Very Much improved from what it was.
I keep the Red Knob at 1 1/2 After a while of use with the pedals Connected to the Wheel their are Tiney Brake pedal input Spikes that appear... I Know when its Happening because the PCars In Car Tuning Menu Will Not Keep Still... It Changes pages like im pressing the Pedal... Its Not a Deal Breaker and im Not Complaining... My best Guess is The Load Cell is Hyper Sensitive to any input...Maybe its that when that Knob is Turned up that the PU Foam is Squeezed to the Load cell and Keeps Pressure on it some how... I Dunno just My best Guess.
@Grimey. Could you clarify what you mean by Brake Pedal Spikes, please. Is this a mechanical spike or an electronic spike? I connected my pedals to the lap top via usb and made an adjustment on both the silver knob on the damper and the red knob on the brake shaft. Both are easily accessible (mechanical) and I did not see any reaction on the blue bar graph (electronic) until I depressed the pedal.
Connect your pedals to the Wheel and Leave it on that Page for 10 min or More... Usually when im Tuning in PCars Car thats when i Notice it. No Deal Breaker Not Complaining just asking... Its Very Much improved from what it was.
I keep the Red Knob at 1 1/2 After a while of use with the pedals Connected to the Wheel their are Tiney Brake pedal input Spikes that appear... I Know when its Happening because the PCars In Car Tuning Menu Will Not Keep Still... It Changes pages like im pressing the Pedal... Its Not a Deal Breaker and im Not Complaining... My best Guess is The Load Cell is Hyper Sensitive to any input...Maybe its that when that Knob is Turned up that the PU Foam is Squeezed to the Load cell and Keeps Pressure on it some how... I Dunno just My best Guess.
Grimey,
Please keep a log for this so we can determine if this is in fact a issue. You're really good at this so I know you'll look at all variables. Thanks
I also experienced the same thing Chris...that's why I turned out the knob to zero. And set the sensitivity slider to 8, in pedal function test window, and got totally rid of the brake spikes.
I also experienced the same thing Chris...that's why I turned out the knob to zero. And set the sensitivity slider to 8, in pedal function test window, and got totally rid of the brake spikes.
Hello, help ClubSport Pedals V3 EU and during the software update my computer crassed before the update was completed. Now the pedals dont't work anymore and i cann't find anything more in my computer only the ClubSport base V2. What can i do? The pedals don't work. i need help!!!!
Got the W8.1 laptop. Tried to install FW 757 on the CSR-E wheel. Didn't work. BUT, I have a work around and got it to work. So, updated the CSR-E. Cool! BUT, the V3 pedals still don't work. Well sort of.
Here's where I am with this. I finally got the CSR-E wheel updated to 757 FW. I have the V3 pedals connected. I loaded the latest patch .hex file posted by Arman. The pedals, at first blush appear not to work when connected to the CSR-E wheel.
First, all the buttons on the wheel work.
But on closer inspection, when I press the go pedal, sloooowwwly, the revs come up in first gear to about 2-3 grand, then drop down again. No matter what gear, that happens, a little increase in rpm, but then they fall back down to idle. And the car never moves.
When I press the brake pedal, the brake lights come on. I assume the clutch works, but I have no way of telling with the car stuck at the start line. I tried 226 default .hex file, but that is really weird. The joy stick won't work, never mind the pedals.
I will try the CSR-E pedals, again, but I doubt any success.
Next chapter in my novel. The CSR-E pedals did not work after installing 757 in the CSR-E wheel. But wait. This is one twist I did not expect. I went back to the V3 pedals. I set the wheel in PC mode. I opened iRacing. Tadaaaa. Everything works. And pretty well, I might add. First time I have ever felt these V3 pedals and how they feed back information/feel. Now I did not take any time at all to fine tune them. But they work. So, I went back to Forza 4, Xbox 360 mode. Damn, the car is still stuck at the start line, pedals don't work, except for the brake light on the car, and a little rev when I press the throttle, then back to idle. And the thumb switch still doesn't do anything in-game, can't navigate menus (does out of game, though). Okay. This is where it gets interesting. I turn off the wheel and connect with the hand controller. Every thing works. Including the throttle, brakes, shifting and clutch (A button). Hmmm. Back to the wheel. Same thing, stuck at the start line. So, I open the in game telemetry, to see if I can see any thing there. On the left, there are 4 vertical scroll bars. I press the throttle, the bar scrolls a little then stops (revs return to idle). I press the brake, bar scrolls all the way to the top. Hey, that's good. Right? I press the clutch pedal, but "seems" nothing is happening. But when I hold the clutch in and press the throttle, the revs go to red line. Hey. That's good, right?. I don't press the clutch and the revs drop to idle again. Okay, been there. Now, this time I see the fourth scroll bar in the in-game telemetry. Solid bar all the way to the top. But I'm not pressing anything. I go back to the hand controller. Now that bar is not all the way to the top like was when the wheel was connected. I find the hand brake trigger. I press it and the bar scrolls all the way to the top. Bingo. That last bar is for hand brake telemetry. I DON'T HAVE A HANDBRAKE!!!! for the wheel. Okay, now I apply the controller hand brake. Pull the throttle trigger and the revs go about 2-3 grand then back to idle. The car doesn't move, just like when I have the wheel connected. Now I know why the car will not move when the wheel is connected. The hand brake THAT I DO NOT HAVE is fully engaged when the wheel is connected. So the car won't move. So, I've figured that much out. But I cannot go into the advanced settings in the game to change the controller settings, because the thumb switch on the wheel does not work in game.
I know there is a lot of rambling in this latest chapter. But I laid it out as best I could and in the order it happened. I really think I stumbled onto something with the phantom hand brake and no thumb switch in-game.
I'm hoping Arman and Remco see this and can maybe look at a firmware issue that might contribute to this. And Chris, if you see this, hoping you can offer some assistance getting this to the devs.
Next chapter in my novel. The CSR-E pedals did not work after installing 757 in the CSR-E wheel. But wait. This is one twist I did not expect. I went back to the V3 pedals. I set the wheel in PC mode. I opened iRacing. Tadaaaa. Everything works. And pretty well, I might add. First time I have ever felt these V3 pedals and how they feed back information/feel. Now I did not take any time at all to fine tune them. But they work. So, I went back to Forza 4, Xbox 360 mode. Damn, the car is still stuck at the start line, pedals don't work, except for the brake light on the car, and a little rev when I press the throttle, then back to idle. And the thumb switch still doesn't do anything in-game, can't navigate menus (does out of game, though). Okay. This is where it gets interesting. I turn off the wheel and connect with the hand controller. Every thing works. Including the throttle, brakes, shifting and clutch (A button). Hmmm. Back to the wheel. Same thing, stuck at the start line. So, I open the in game telemetry, to see if I can see any thing there. On the left, there are 4 vertical scroll bars. I press the throttle, the bar scrolls a little then stops (revs return to idle). I press the brake, bar scrolls all the way to the top. Hey, that's good. Right? I press the clutch pedal, but "seems" nothing is happening. But when I hold the clutch in and press the throttle, the revs go to red line. Hey. That's good, right?. I don't press the clutch and the revs drop to idle again. Okay, been there. Now, this time I see the fourth scroll bar in the in-game telemetry. Solid bar all the way to the top. But I'm not pressing anything. I go back to the hand controller. Now that bar is not all the way to the top like was when the wheel was connected. I find the hand brake trigger. I press it and the bar scrolls all the way to the top. Bingo. That last bar is for hand brake telemetry. I DON'T HAVE A HANDBRAKE!!!! for the wheel. Okay, now I apply the controller hand brake. Pull the throttle trigger and the revs go about 2-3 grand then back to idle. The car doesn't move, just like when I have the wheel connected. Now I know why the car will not move when the wheel is connected. The hand brake THAT I DO NOT HAVE is fully engaged when the wheel is connected. So the car won't move. So, I've figured that much out. But I cannot go into the advanced settings in the game to change the controller settings, because the thumb switch on the wheel does not work in game.
I know there is a lot of rambling in this latest chapter. But I laid it out as best I could and in the order it happened. I really think I stumbled onto something with the phantom hand brake and no thumb switch in-game.
I'm hoping Arman and Remco see this and can maybe look at a firmware issue that might contribute to this. And Chris, if you see this, hoping you can offer some assistance getting this to the devs.
Wow Trevor you are thorough. Did you submit this to the support team? You should send in a message just like any other product. That will always be the best and fastest way to address issues. Thank you for going so in-depth. I know it helps the support tremendously when they get this much information. Thanks again.
Next chapter in my novel. The CSR-E pedals did not work after installing 757 in the CSR-E wheel. But wait. This is one twist I did not expect. I went back to the V3 pedals. I set the wheel in PC mode. I opened iRacing. Tadaaaa. Everything works. And pretty well, I might add. First time I have ever felt these V3 pedals and how they feed back information/feel. Now I did not take any time at all to fine tune them. But they work. So, I went back to Forza 4, Xbox 360 mode. Damn, the car is still stuck at the start line, pedals don't work, except for the brake light on the car, and a little rev when I press the throttle, then back to idle. And the thumb switch still doesn't do anything in-game, can't navigate menus (does out of game, though). Okay. This is where it gets interesting. I turn off the wheel and connect with the hand controller. Every thing works. Including the throttle, brakes, shifting and clutch (A button). Hmmm. Back to the wheel. Same thing, stuck at the start line. So, I open the in game telemetry, to see if I can see any thing there. On the left, there are 4 vertical scroll bars. I press the throttle, the bar scrolls a little then stops (revs return to idle). I press the brake, bar scrolls all the way to the top. Hey, that's good. Right? I press the clutch pedal, but "seems" nothing is happening. But when I hold the clutch in and press the throttle, the revs go to red line. Hey. That's good, right?. I don't press the clutch and the revs drop to idle again. Okay, been there. Now, this time I see the fourth scroll bar in the in-game telemetry. Solid bar all the way to the top. But I'm not pressing anything. I go back to the hand controller. Now that bar is not all the way to the top like was when the wheel was connected. I find the hand brake trigger. I press it and the bar scrolls all the way to the top. Bingo. That last bar is for hand brake telemetry. I DON'T HAVE A HANDBRAKE!!!! for the wheel. Okay, now I apply the controller hand brake. Pull the throttle trigger and the revs go about 2-3 grand then back to idle. The car doesn't move, just like when I have the wheel connected. Now I know why the car will not move when the wheel is connected. The hand brake THAT I DO NOT HAVE is fully engaged when the wheel is connected. So the car won't move. So, I've figured that much out. But I cannot go into the advanced settings in the game to change the controller settings, because the thumb switch on the wheel does not work in game.
I know there is a lot of rambling in this latest chapter. But I laid it out as best I could and in the order it happened. I really think I stumbled onto something with the phantom hand brake and no thumb switch in-game.
I'm hoping Arman and Remco see this and can maybe look at a firmware issue that might contribute to this. And Chris, if you see this, hoping you can offer some assistance getting this to the devs.
Interesting! If you connect the controller and go into settings, can you re-assign the handbrake so that it carries over to when you connect the CSR-E? Or can you connect both CSR-E and controller, and select to use the wheel for controlling the car?
Or maybe switch handbrake button in the options screen with controller or choose another button layout with the controller first, then restart FM4 and use the wheel ?
@Remco and Antoine, I'll give those a try. And Chris. I'll copy paste the latest comment to support. The fact that the thumb switch does not work when in race or test drive mode, but does work when out of the game is baffling. I never had that problem until I loaded the 757 FW. I did go back to the 721 FW just to check, but it was the same there. No thumb switch in game. Bazzar!.
Well, when I connect to the x360 with the controller, all buttons work. Including the joy stick. I navigate to the options page and the "controller" layout is displayed. I go to the layout option, where buttons are assigned. I choose a layout where the handbrake is in the right joy stick, not on a button or a trigger. I turn off the controller. I reconnect with the wheel and now the wheel graphic is displayed.There is no handbrake attached, so there is no handbrake option in the wheel layouts. So far so good. I can select the various layout options with the joy stick moving left or right. But, when I try to scroll down to the next menu option, the joy stick just bleeps and the image on the screen flashes, but does not move up or down. That is how it works in all the other menus. Only bleeps and flashes. I even tried FM3, but the same results.
I loaded a shooter game, Halo3. Same thing. The controller navigates as it should, but when I connect the wheel, the buttons work but the joy stick does not, and the menu options just flash uncontrollably.
Is that fw 757 also in driver V226? If so...my guess is that somehow the CSR button layout is messed up where it shouldn't!! I know that button layout changed for the X1 hub, between driver V219 and V222, 223 and 226. So people who use the hub on pc and PS4 have better use of the buttons. Maybe the CSR accidentally was drawn in this process too ??
Copy/paste it to support Trevor, so it goes allong with your problem !!
I don't mean to be rude to Remco, but Trevor...Remco is a beta tester and Moderator on this blog, doing a great job helping and thinking with us, but unfortunatelly he's only got a pc...so best option is to contact support about it.
Comments
Mine is at zero ! And slider at 8. I've got the same feeling as in my own car...and I gotta push real hard to reach the end/top of the bar in FM6, PCars and function test.
Question is How do we Set/use the Turn Screw to adjust Brake Stiffness without getting the Brake Pedal Spikes when your Not Pressing the Pedal... Im Not Complaining im just Not Realizing the usefullnes of the Brake adjustment Turn Screw yet when used with the Damper Kit.
I keep the Red Knob at 1 1/2 After a while of use with the pedals Connected to the Wheel their are Tiney Brake pedal input Spikes that appear... I Know when its Happening because the PCars In Car Tuning Menu Will Not Keep Still... It Changes pages like im pressing the Pedal... Its Not a Deal Breaker and im Not Complaining... My best Guess is The Load Cell is Hyper Sensitive to any input...Maybe its that when that Knob is Turned up that the PU Foam is Squeezed to the Load cell and Keeps Pressure on it some how... I Dunno just My best Guess.
Grimey,
Please keep a log for this so we can determine if this is in fact a issue. You're really good at this so I know you'll look at all variables. Thanks
Thanks for the info Antoine.
Wow Trevor you are thorough. Did you submit this to the support team? You should send in a message just like any other product. That will always be the best and fastest way to address issues. Thank you for going so in-depth. I know it helps the support tremendously when they get this much information. Thanks again.
If you connect the controller and go into settings, can you re-assign the handbrake so that it carries over to when you connect the CSR-E? Or can you connect both CSR-E and controller, and select to use the wheel for controlling the car?