I Have Re-Flashed the *** V3 PEDAL's ONLY*** back to 219 Pedal FW .... Wver since o updated the pedals today i seem to be Having Random Pedal Calibration issues windows 7/64bit and also on PS4 Pcars the pedals will just randomly Not Go past 50% It can be any 1, 2 or all 3 of the pedals its very Random... Easy to reproduce just Play PCars until your pedals Randomly act up or plug wheel with pedals Connected into your windows 7PC power off and on a few times and see if you get 100% pedal . IDid Not Have this issue before updating Pedal FW today.
So far FW 226/ 116 feels really good as far as Driving.
Im Getting Random Issues with the New FW windows 7/644bit and on PS4 with PCars Where the Pedals only Reads Half Throttle/ Clutch/ Brakes.... it just randomly Happens when i plug the wheel in to the PC... I shut the wheel Off and power back on ithe Pedals Come back to Full Most of the time.... on PCars i Reloaded the game and wheel and it was ok again... it just happens at Random... any 1 else have this happen? EDIT: It has Happend a Few Times Since ive updated the Pedal FW with FW 226
Hey G, Yea this appears to be a known issue. I reported it earlier (in one of these threads! We really need a forum) and a reboot of the wheel fixes it. It appears to happen if you power on the base before the X screen.
What I do now, is power on the game, load the base at the X screen, press X, restart the base again immediately and it's fine. I personally think it's related to PCars drivers, as it happens in both PCars XBO 2.0 and PS4 3.0 but no other titles exhibit the issue for me.
I'm running (was running FW 112 on the pedals) I'll re try with 116 as well
I'll refash the pedals and wheel tomorrow IF I can find the time..or else the weekend. @Joseph, I'll contact you by XOne message to get you my ffb settings asap.
Thanks bud. We need to get the group of us some track time together once Nat gets her gear back.
Agreed! Fingers crossed my pedal issues will be resolved tomorrow, then I only have 1 damper issue left to resolve and apart from some minor niggles, I think that's it So next week I'll be good to go (except for 1 damper) but that won't hold me back :P
I might just need to pick up a damper for the accelerator.
I would highly recommend it. It genuinely makes the pedals instantly change from feeling like toy/game pedals to having substance which make them feel heavy/realalistic and completely adds to the immersion.
Due to the dampening in 1Direction only, it means you don't get the dull mushy effect, but just a nice feeling of substance/presence. I set my damper to 0 (Zero) and it feels perfect, anything more feels incorrect, slow, dull, heavy, unrealistic.
It may seem strange to buy one and set it to 0 (zero) but I assure you, on 0 (zero) it adds a substantial amount of dampening that truly changes the entire feel if the pedal. It's one of THE revolutionary steps in the pedals architecture for me. I genuinely think my V2 throttle feels childish now every time I press it, where as the V3 (with D shape pedals) and damper feels like I'm driving a powerful piece of machinery.
For the money, I believe you get more immersion from that part, that anything else that's been introduced. If I could fit/buy more to add to my V2 I would! (As I'd keep them as a back up or may now begin building a second rig)
But in auto calibration you can push the brake pedal 2 cm and you have already the full brake force even at 100 BRF. There are many people complaining this for example at virtual racing.
When will FANATEC solve this problem?
When and where was that reported? I did not any such report here previously. I do not know that the Fanatec Support Team receive such a report. Could you please tell me who and when reported the issue before to check why this has not been followed up?
@ Marc Wendling
We could not keep BRF form manual mode for several technical reasons. It just was not possible and had to be removed to ensure the device works reliable and consistently. BUT manual calibration mode does have exactly the same effect!?
I don't think it's been officially reported, So I agree with you on that one
I think there is some confusion as to where the issue is coming from. Unfortunately, I've not been able to log any issues due to dealing with my equipment failure but I do have a list ready to go.
I need to confirm that the issues do exist with my replacement set of pedals, as I think many of my issues were related to a mixture of my faulty hardware and PCars.
However, you are 100% correct, if it's only being discussed on Vr and not reported to Fanatec, how can it be fixed? I'll hopefully get a nice detailed log into you from my experience with the V3, but I want to verify it against the replacement pedals first, to ensure I don't send you a list of "non issues" that were related solely to my faulty set
PS. If you want anymore of the Queens Tablet, let me know and I'll send you some more over
Turning the BrfF to 100 on my pedals and i really have to Fullyl Push hard to get 100% Braking... you may need to check your pedals, your Game and wheel settings.
Yea, brf @100 and load cell at 2.5 makes my heels almost snap!
But in auto calibration you can push the brake pedal 2 cm and you have already the full brake force even at 100 BRF. There are many people complaining this for example at virtual racing.
When will FANATEC solve this problem?
When and where was that reported? I did not any such report here previously. I do not know that the Fanatec Support Team receive such a report. Could you please tell me who and when reported the issue before to check why this has not been followed up?
@ Marc Wendling
We could not keep BRF form manual mode for several technical reasons. It just was not possible and had to be removed to ensure the device works reliable and consistently. BUT manual calibration mode does have exactly the same effect!?
the problem was reported not here (as far as I know) but in Virtual Racing on Hardware Sector a few weeks ago. I think the problem is also related to the seeting of brake lever, Natalie calls it seeting of the load cell. Many here have it in the region of 2-3.5 obviously, whereas I have it a 1 - 1.5
manual calibration is no substitute for BRF-setting on the wheel at all. With BRF-setting on the wheel I can adjust the brake sensitivity in game and "on the fly" during driving when I change for example from an ABS-braking car to a car without ABS where I need much more sensibiltiy in the brake. If I have to do every time a new manual calibration, that is neither convenient nor precise because I cannot see/feel the difference in game and on the fly, but only after the change.
I have to think about keeping the pedals or sending them back because of this change in FW. If I want to keep BRF.seeting in manual calibration mode, I am stuck forever with the old fimware. That cannot be good.
The cancellation period for the pedals runs off today at 24:00.
@ Armin Habermann: What is not precise/reliable/consistant when the BRF-seeting would be kept also in manual calibratrion mode? Are there any plans to get a better calibration in every seeting of the brake lever/more sensivity/adjustibiltiy in calibration? I doubt the benefit of a 12 bit load cell when you cannot use this benefit because of bad calibration software...
I'll refash the pedals and wheel tomorrow IF I can find the time..or else the weekend. @Joseph, I'll contact you by XOne message to get you my ffb settings asap.
Thanks bud. We need to get the group of us some track time together once Nat gets her gear back.
If the auto calibration mode on BRF 10 is to easy to 100% then this is the issue but there is no report in the customer service so far. We need a sample to check that.
As I said...keeping BRF will not be possible anymore due to several firmware development reasons. 3-4 developers have been working on the wheel/pedals interface/firmware to ensure perfect usability and having BRF in manual was no option. Again if Auto Calibration on BRF 10 would be "hard enough" to push you would not even think about requesting that. It will not be able to fulfill this request but the needed pressure for brake in Auto will be checked as soon as there is a sample showing this issue.
@Natalie, going back to fw 112 on the pedals...is that done by reinstalling driver 223 and ONLY update the pedals via usb to pc ? Cause I really didn't like the feel of the brake last night. And no I didn't mean the auto function is lost when using default...BUT the brake pressure was jumping up and down in the function Set window. Calibrating to minimum didn't stop it, so I had to enable manual usage and recalibrate minimum.
Turning the BrfF to 100 on my pedals and i really have to Fullyl Push hard to get 100% Braking... you may need to check your pedals, your Game and wheel settings.
Yea, brf @100 and load cell at 2.5 makes my heels almost snap!
But in auto calibration you can push the brake pedal 2 cm and you have already the full brake force even at 100 BRF. There are many people complaining this for example at virtual racing.
When will FANATEC solve this problem?
When and where was that reported? I did not any such report here previously. I do not know that the Fanatec Support Team receive such a report. Could you please tell me who and when reported the issue before to check why this has not been followed up?
@ Marc Wendling
We could not keep BRF form manual mode for several technical reasons. It just was not possible and had to be removed to ensure the device works reliable and consistently. BUT manual calibration mode does have exactly the same effect!?
the problem was reported not here (as far as I know) but in Virtual Racing on Hardware Sector a few weeks ago. I think the problem is also related to the seeting of brake lever, Natalie calls it seeting of the load cell. Many here have it in the region of 2-3.5 obviously, whereas I have it a 1 - 1.5
manual calibration is no substitute for BRF-setting on the wheel at all. With BRF-setting on the wheel I can adjust the brake sensitivity in game and "on the fly" during driving when I change for example from an ABS-braking car to a car without ABS where I need much more sensibiltiy in the brake. If I have to do every time a new manual calibration, that is neither convenient nor precise because I cannot see/feel the difference in game and on the fly, but only after the change.
I have to think about keeping the pedals or sending them back because of this change in FW. If I want to keep BRF.seeting in manual calibration mode, I am stuck forever with the old fimware. That cannot be good.
The cancellation period for the pedals runs off today at 24:00.
@ Armin Habermann: What is not precise/reliable/consistant when the BRF-seeting would be kept also in manual calibratrion mode? Are there any plans to get a better calibration in every seeting of the brake lever/more sensivity/adjustibiltiy in calibration? I doubt the benefit of a 12 bit load cell when you cannot use this benefit because of bad calibration software...
Maybe a link to that topic would help...I'd like to read it too.
If the auto calibration mode on BRF 10 is to easy to 100% then this is the issue but there is no report in the customer service so far. We need a sample to check that.
As I said...keeping BRF will not be possible anymore due to several firmware development reasons. 3-4 developers have been working on the wheel/pedals interface/firmware to ensure perfect usability and having BRF in manual was no option. Again if Auto Calibration on BRF 10 would be "hard enough" to push you would not even think about requesting that. It will not be able to fulfill this request but the needed pressure for brake in Auto will be checked as soon as there is a sample showing this issue.
as I said before, auto calibration is no option for me at the moment. It is not only at BRF 10 that you get 100 % with 2 cm of pedal travel. it is also up to BRF 80 - 90 . Even at BRF 100 the pedal travel to get 100 % brake force is much to short for sensibel braking. I have not the time to make a video af that in the moment but it should be reproduceable for you with the settings I told you (pedal lever at 1-1.5). Perhaps it is also a problem in relation to WIN 10 which I use.
At the moment manual calibration with the old fimware is the only option for me. That does not suit the price of the product.
Im Getting Random Issues with the New FW windows 7/644bit and on PS4 with PCars Where the Pedals only Reads Half Throttle/ Clutch/ Brakes.... it just randomly Happens when i plug the wheel in to the PC... I shut the wheel Off and power back on ithe Pedals Come back to Full Most of the time.... on PCars i Reloaded the game and wheel and it was ok again... it just happens at Random... any 1 else have this happen? EDIT: It has Happend a Few Times Since ive updated the Pedal FW with FW 226
Hey G, Yea this appears to be a known issue. I reported it earlier (in one of these threads! We really need a forum) and a reboot of the wheel fixes it. It appears to happen if you power on the base before the X screen.
What I do now, is power on the game, load the base at the X screen, press X, restart the base again immediately and it's fine. I personally think it's related to PCars drivers, as it happens in both PCars XBO 2.0 and PS4 3.0 but no other titles exhibit the issue for me.
I'm running (was running FW 112 on the pedals) I'll re try with 116 as well
Natalie I Dont think the Prob is wth PCars because this Never Happend before iflashed the V3 Pedals with FW 226. Ok Heres where im at... I Have Re Flashed the Pedals ONLY Back to the FW 222. i did this because i Never Had Any Pedal Calibration Problems Until i Flashed the V3 Pedals with the Pedal FW in 226... My initial Test from rolling back the V3 Pedal FW has been Good So far.... I will continue to moniter Pedal performance over the weekend.
The Wheel FW in 226 Feels ok So far... The Wheel is Straight and Level and Responsive to me it feels a Tad bit better than FW 222... With FW 222 while at the main menu or tuning Screen the wheel always sat anTad bit tilted to the Right but during a Race it would be or apear to be Straight and level but it always felt as if it was Drifting to the Right a bit... But then its hard to tell if it actually was while watching the Road setting up for the Next Corner. any 1 else Noticing Throttle, Brake or Clutch Not giving Full Bars after Flashing The Pedals with the New FW?
Edit: im Pretty sure that the Pedals Randomly Not Reading Correctly is NOT PCars Related because the Random Pedal issue of Pedals only Reading 50% on Gas, Brake, Clutch in any order or Combination Some time 1 or 2 Read Full but other is 50% or all just 50% Happens when pugged into the PC with No Game Loaded in the Fanatec Properties Screen. It also Happens with PS4 PCars while driving a Track watching the Teletetry Screen.... IMO it is Related to the Pedal FW in FW 226 because i Never Had a Problem with the Pedals V1 or V3 unti i Flashed the V3 Pedals with FW 226.
So Far I Have Not Noticed any Isues with FW 226 and the V2 wheel base.
When i Check tonight if i Still Have the Issue i will Re-Flash wheel with FW 222 and Flash Pedals with FW 226 and see what Happens. Right Now I Have FW 226 on wheel and FW 222 on Pedals and so far all seems well with that Combo...Further testing is Needed though.
Lucky for me My PC/PS4/PS3/XB1 is Right Next to Me so i Can Flash and Re-Flash and Never Leave My Seat... LOL
I'm going to test this today (hopefully - my items have been delayed by UPS)
From my previously testing I noticed the following (but didn't officially report it as my pedals were/are faulty) so I needed to confirm the issue before bombarding Armin with lots of useless faults he may not have been able to reproduce.
When set to auto calibration and Load Cell set to 2.5 and above, MY brake pedal WOULD register a minute amount of activity, but I'm not sure if this is a design issue, firmware, or my faulty pedals (they were legitimately bent) and I posted videos/pics of this, so this issue could have been specific to me.
To remove the small amount of brake activity was impossible, even with manual calibration (for my set)
If you experience any of the above, please report this to support, or post it here on the fanatec forums...
When set to auto calibration, load cell at 2.5 and brf 100 my brake pedal had to travel full distance to reach100% and it took a lot of force for it to register (this was on firmware 112) Which is as expected and how I like it
I have not been able to test 116 as I have no pedals at this moment and therefore my rig is parked up
In project cars (ONLY PCars) the pedals would register only 50% travel when the Pedals were fully depressed. This was resolved by restating the wheel during the game. Leading me to believe that this was again PCars specific, or related to my faulty set.
@Marc Have you tried re calibrating the pedals and also reflashing the wheel base and ensuring you start from a clean slate (just to reduce any variables)
For example, could you try ... Detaching the pedals, flash pedal firmware on PC Flash wheel base on PC Connect pedals to wheel Power on wheel Calibrate wheel/ pedals / gear stick etc auto (first) then manually calibrate (second)
Then report back and let me know. (I will do this exact Method myself today ups manage to get them to me.
Additionally, are you using PC/PS4/XBO and are you connecting the pedals to the PC via USB or directly to the wheel? What games do you experience this issue in? All games AND drivers or just drivers?
Again, don't feel obliged to answer any of the above, as I will do this today myself, but it could give us a head start in tracking down any issues while my pedals are out of commission...
I'll refash the pedals and wheel tomorrow IF I can find the time..or else the weekend. @Joseph, I'll contact you by XOne message to get you my ffb settings asap.
Thanks bud. We need to get the group of us some track time together once Nat gets her gear back.
Agreed! Fingers crossed my pedal issues will be resolved tomorrow, then I only have 1 damper issue left to resolve and apart from some minor niggles, I think that's it So next week I'll be good to go (except for 1 damper) but that won't hold me back :P
I might just need to pick up a damper for the accelerator.
I would highly recommend it. It genuinely makes the pedals instantly change from feeling like toy/game pedals to having substance which make them feel heavy/realalistic and completely adds to the immersion.
Due to the dampening in 1Direction only, it means you don't get the dull mushy effect, but just a nice feeling of substance/presence. I set my damper to 0 (Zero) and it feels perfect, anything more feels incorrect, slow, dull, heavy, unrealistic.
It may seem strange to buy one and set it to 0 (zero) but I assure you, on 0 (zero) it adds a substantial amount of dampening that truly changes the entire feel if the pedal. It's one of THE revolutionary steps in the pedals architecture for me. I genuinely think my V2 throttle feels childish now every time I press it, where as the V3 (with D shape pedals) and damper feels like I'm driving a powerful piece of machinery.
For the money, I believe you get more immersion from that part, that anything else that's been introduced. If I could fit/buy more to add to my V2 I would! (As I'd keep them as a back up or may now begin building a second rig)
Ok sold lol. I agree more substance on the accel would be great. Brake seems perfectly fine without one. Have you tried the strong spring to see if that makes a difference?
I'll refash the pedals and wheel tomorrow IF I can find the time..or else the weekend. @Joseph, I'll contact you by XOne message to get you my ffb settings asap.
Thanks bud. We need to get the group of us some track time together once Nat gets her gear back.
Agreed! Fingers crossed my pedal issues will be resolved tomorrow, then I only have 1 damper issue left to resolve and apart from some minor niggles, I think that's it So next week I'll be good to go (except for 1 damper) but that won't hold me back :P
I might just need to pick up a damper for the accelerator.
I would highly recommend it. It genuinely makes the pedals instantly change from feeling like toy/game pedals to having substance which make them feel heavy/realalistic and completely adds to the immersion.
Due to the dampening in 1Direction only, it means you don't get the dull mushy effect, but just a nice feeling of substance/presence. I set my damper to 0 (Zero) and it feels perfect, anything more feels incorrect, slow, dull, heavy, unrealistic.
It may seem strange to buy one and set it to 0 (zero) but I assure you, on 0 (zero) it adds a substantial amount of dampening that truly changes the entire feel if the pedal. It's one of THE revolutionary steps in the pedals architecture for me. I genuinely think my V2 throttle feels childish now every time I press it, where as the V3 (with D shape pedals) and damper feels like I'm driving a powerful piece of machinery.
For the money, I believe you get more immersion from that part, that anything else that's been introduced. If I could fit/buy more to add to my V2 I would! (As I'd keep them as a back up or may now begin building a second rig)
Ok sold lol. I agree more substance on the accel would be great. Brake seems perfectly fine without one. Have you tried the strong spring to see if that makes a difference?
I didn't try the stronger spring as a few people mentioned that it was very very hard to compress (even with shoes on) so I decided I would try it after I had enjoyed a little time with the damper first.
To be honest, the smooth red spring, plus damper is sublime! It's probably very similar to having the stiffer spring on, but adjustable.
For example, You could easily increase the resistance on the damper to match that of the spring for sure, so I think the damper is seen as an adjustable spring, particularly because it only dampens in 1 direction (like a spring). This leads me to believe that the smoother spring is likely to be the better partner for the damper as it will allow you to have more range (from soft to hard).
The brake doesn't NEED a damper, but I do use one and it feels again... Much better. However, if I could only pick 1 ... I'm sure I would take the ACCL Damper over the Brake as it just adds a feeling of substance that I haven't felt on a gaming pedal before.
For full-immersion get 2 but if you only want 1 it really has to go on the accl pedal, really does make that pedal feel "real" and the brake is already very close "as-is"
I don't think you will be disappointed though as long as you set it to 0 (unless you have the legs of a bear)
Edit: An interesting point.
Since I added my damper to my throttle, I have reduced the number of times I have spun out. For example: If I am under pressure (or panicking) I have been known to "floor it" coming out of a corner, just a millisecond to early, my rear end would start to loose traction, I can feel the car turning, I am now loosing time fighting this tank slapped...., and inevitably... it's bye bye Natalie
With the damper it means the pedal can't just be fully depressed in an instant (on/off) meaning under stress, when I slam the throttle down, it now has that tension, substance, resistance and causes the pedal to depress fractionally slower, which in turn actually regulates my throttle application and therefore reduces my chances of a spin out undear the exact same conditions!
If that's not a reason to buy one I don't know what is
I was unfortunate to receive a faulty item, but my replacement is en route, the pedals and dampers feel amazing, they legitimately have improved MY particular driving style (same speed but less spin outs) and they completely immerse me.
Anyone who hasn't got a damper for the v3 really is missing out on the main pedal advancement over the V2 (Imo)
@Natalie, going back to fw 112 on the pedals...is that done by reinstalling driver 223 and ONLY update the pedals via usb to pc ? Cause I really didn't like the feel of the brake last night. And no I didn't mean the auto function is lost when using default...BUT the brake pressure was jumping up and down in the function Set window. Calibrating to minimum didn't stop it, so I had to enable manual usage and recalibrate minimum.
Yes that is How it is Done... Uninstall F226 on PC then Re-install FW223 and Flash Pedals only... Then you Can Re-Install 226 to your PC again if you want.
I've not tested 116 yet (only 1.07 and 1.12) so as soon as my pedals arrive (looks like monday now .. Agh UPS) I'll get on it and really test every combination and pin down any issues with them.
The Brake Pedal Load Cell is SUPER Sensitive!!! The weight of a Feather will Show Brake Pressure!!! The Brake Pedal is Much More sensitive than the Gas Pedal. My Co clusion is the Brake Pedal Myst be a Woman... LOL... I have My Pre Load Screw set to 1 and some times i see a Very Very Small Brake signal Fluctuation... But i think that the Load Cell is Sooo Sensitive that even Very Small Vibrations will Register as Brake Pressure... I think that can be Fixed with FW update that decreases Load Cell Sensitivity a Tad Bit... The More Pre load i put the More the Brake Shows Pressure when im not touching the Pedal
Hello fellows Fanatecs. I'd just like to say that it's very refreshing to see all the positive interaction on the site now. Everyone is trying to help each other and help us (Fanatec) find and fix issues in a constructive manner. Keep up the good work and I wish everyone a great and safe weekend! Race on
Hello fellows Fanatecs. I'd just like to say that it's very refreshing to see all the positive interaction on the site now. Everyone is trying to help each other and help us (Fanatec) find and fix issues in a constructive manner. Keep up the good work and I wish everyone a great and safe weekend! Race on
I was thinking the same thing. If the whole world were Sim Racers it would be a better Place.
@Natalie and Joseph, I purchased one damper and installed it in the throttle ... first with the stock spring and a damper setting of 6... worked well and ended the floppy pedal syndrome.... after a bit of racing that way I changed over to the stronger spring without the damper... much better than the weaker spring as far as feel ...and improved the ability to feather the throttle. However, still made it way to easy to apply to much throttle and attain wheel spin .. so, I have now reinstalled the damper with the stronger spring, and I have set the damper to 0 as well . this set up makes you really think about going to full throttle [if that makes sense] and helps in managing high horse power rear wheel drive car , where rear wheel spin is easy to attain.
I am one of those who uses the pedals in socks, so the older style pedal plates are a must when using the stronger spring and damper. However if you use your pedals with shoes on [ high heels for some] then I really think the stronger spring with the damper on the throttle is a must... the brake suits me as well , but again if I were racing with shoes on , I would be testing the damper on the brake as well.
As a side note , be careful changing the clutch spring , the screws on the clutch rod seem to strip easily , one of mine is stripped from the factory , and the one that I could remove was difficult to align the threads [because of spring tension] to avoid cross threading when I was re-installing it.
My advice would to purchase one damper for the throttle and test that on the brake as well to see if you want to purchase as second damper. Also , when using the pedal extensions, it make changing the vibration motor a bit difficult, it makes it a bit easier if you install the vibration motor mount with the hex head screw interior of the pedal bracket and the nut behind the pedal plate, and take care not to get the motor wire behind a screw head or washer, almost severed mine.
@Natalie and Joseph, I purchased one damper and installed it in the throttle ... first with the stock spring and a damper setting of 6... worked well and ended the floppy pedal syndrome.... after a bit of racing that way I changed over to the stronger spring without the damper... much better than the weaker spring as far as feel ...and improved the ability to feather the throttle. However, still made it way to easy to apply to much throttle and attain wheel spin .. so, I have now reinstalled the damper with the stronger spring, and I have set the damper to 0 as well . this set up makes you really think about going to full throttle [if that makes sense] and helps in managing high horse power rear wheel drive car , where rear wheel spin is easy to attain.
I am one of those who uses the pedals in socks, so the older style pedal plates are a must when using the stronger spring and damper. However if you use your pedals with shoes on [ high heels for some] then I really think the stronger spring with the damper on the throttle is a must... the brake suits me as well , but again if I were racing with shoes on , I would be testing the damper on the brake as well.
As a side note , be careful changing the clutch spring , the screws on the clutch rod seem to strip easily , one of mine is stripped from the factory , and the one that I could remove was difficult to align the threads [because of spring tension] to avoid cross threading when I was re-installing it.
My advice would to purchase one damper for the throttle and test that on the brake as well to see if you want to purchase as second damper. Also , when using the pedal extensions, it make changing the vibration motor a bit difficult, it makes a bit easier if you install the vibration motor mount with the hex head screw interior of the pedal bracket and the nut behind the pedal plate, and take care not to get the motor wire behind a screw head or washer, almost severed mine.
Thanks for the info Joe. Just realized the dampers are pushed until Oct 30th . Is there any challenge in changing the accel spring?
No, that is really easy ... the only issue I had was getting the damper wire behind the washer of the motor bracket ... I taped it out of the way and then realized that installing the screw in the opposite direction made that less likely [no washer] and easier.. lucky for me , the wire is now just flat and not severed.
@ Joseph, don't be to sad ... if you have your pedals or are due to get them in a couple of days ... install the heavy spring and enjoy the racing . Since the pedals as they are offer a much improver feel over the V2's... I do a lot of FM5 and really could control the RWD's without the dampers until I got to R class and unbeatable. The dampers for some , are like chocolate sprinkles on you favorite ice cream.. I am still using V219 and auto calibration so the BRF feature works for me.
The stronger spring and damper at 6 8-} are you a centaur?
I may try the stronger spring, however, as I like the D shape pedals (and bare feet) I think my toes may snap off It's great to know that the damper on the accl affects you in a similar way, it really does subconsciously make you hesitant about slamming the pedal down to the max as it "feels" like there will be repercussions if you do.
Good to know about the screws too, I noticed the same thing when I dismantled mine, and I like the idea of reversing the screw on the motor, as I did find it very cramped in there when everything was attached :-bd
I have an issue with the new update. During the flash process it hung and I had to hard boot. Now my pedals are not seen. I tried reinstalling software but no good.....Is there a fix or recovery mode so I do not have to RMA. I just received them a month ago. I'm using the pedals on PC with a 500 thrustmaster.
@ Natalie, the D pads with the stronger spring lasted about two hours... and left a raised area on my foot where the screws are located. I would only recommend that combination with shoes , but most people are tougher than me. I think if you were a sim-racer and heel toe shifting was important, that that combo may work best. I only do this deal because local law enforcement and my insurance company frown on my doing it on the streets. enjoy the day.
Although, The feel of the pedals still differs from that of a street car, it is much improved in the V3's. I think I'll need to test that by driving my car in socks.
Yea, the police and Insurance don't like racing on the streets here either Sim racing really scratches that itch for me too.
I tend to drive in barefeet (or socks) a lot, and as my accl and clutch are quite heavy, I get a very close approximation from the V3 with dampers attached. Not perfect, but A much closer approximation than any other pedal I've used, including V2 and V3 without damper attached.
Try driving your car in bare feet (it takes a while to adjust) then pop on some boots or similar, usually takes me a good 5 minutes to settle in
Some times I wear my boots (calf high) when driving short distances, and when I do it's like I've popped in "Kangaroo Petrol" as I tend to be overly aggressive on the pedals as I adjust to my heavier foot ware
@ Natalie , another worthwhile day. I'm not sure I want my sim-rig to mirror my car... I use the paddle shifters on the rig and fear what the cost having them in my daily driver would be ... ie weekly transmission replacement.
Comments
So far FW 226/ 116 feels really good as far as Driving.
Hey G,
Yea this appears to be a known issue. I reported it earlier (in one of these threads! We really need a forum) and a reboot of the wheel fixes it. It appears to happen if you power on the base before the X screen.
What I do now, is power on the game, load the base at the X screen, press X, restart the base again immediately and it's fine. I personally think it's related to PCars drivers, as it happens in both PCars XBO 2.0 and PS4 3.0 but no other titles exhibit the issue for me.
I'm running (was running FW 112 on the pedals) I'll re try with 116 as well
I would highly recommend it. It genuinely makes the pedals instantly change from feeling like toy/game pedals to having substance which make them feel heavy/realalistic and completely adds to the immersion.
Due to the dampening in 1Direction only, it means you don't get the dull mushy effect, but just a nice feeling of substance/presence. I set my damper to 0 (Zero) and it feels perfect, anything more feels incorrect, slow, dull, heavy, unrealistic.
It may seem strange to buy one and set it to 0 (zero) but I assure you, on 0 (zero) it adds a substantial amount of dampening that truly changes the entire feel if the pedal. It's one of THE revolutionary steps in the pedals architecture for me. I genuinely think my V2 throttle feels childish now every time I press it, where as the V3 (with D shape pedals) and damper feels like I'm driving a powerful piece of machinery.
For the money, I believe you get more immersion from that part, that anything else that's been introduced. If I could fit/buy more to add to my V2 I would! (As I'd keep them as a back up or may now begin building a second rig)
I don't think it's been officially reported, So I agree with you on that one
I think there is some confusion as to where the issue is coming from. Unfortunately, I've not been able to log any issues due to dealing with my equipment failure
I need to confirm that the issues do exist with my replacement set of pedals, as I think many of my issues were related to a mixture of my faulty hardware and PCars.
However, you are 100% correct, if it's only being discussed on Vr and not reported to Fanatec, how can it be fixed? I'll hopefully get a nice detailed log into you from my experience with the V3, but I want to verify it against the replacement pedals first, to ensure I don't send you a list of "non issues" that were related solely to my faulty set
PS.
If you want anymore of the Queens Tablet, let me know and I'll send you some more over
Set them to that specific car..it's a base from where I set and tweak other cars to my liking!!
Cause I really didn't like the feel of the brake last night. And no I didn't mean the auto function is lost when using default...BUT the brake pressure was jumping up and down in the function Set window. Calibrating to minimum didn't stop it, so I had to enable manual usage and recalibrate minimum.
Maybe a link to that topic would help...I'd like to read it too.
Ok Heres where im at... I Have Re Flashed the Pedals ONLY Back to the FW 222. i did this because i Never Had Any Pedal Calibration Problems Until i Flashed the V3 Pedals with the Pedal FW in 226... My initial Test from rolling back the V3 Pedal FW has been Good So far.... I will continue to moniter Pedal performance over the weekend.
The Wheel FW in 226 Feels ok So far... The Wheel is Straight and Level and Responsive to me it feels a Tad bit better than FW 222... With FW 222 while at the main menu or tuning Screen the wheel always sat anTad bit tilted to the Right but during a Race it would be or apear to be Straight and level but it always felt as if it was Drifting to the Right a bit... But then its hard to tell if it actually was while watching the Road setting up for the Next Corner. any 1 else Noticing Throttle, Brake or Clutch Not giving Full Bars after Flashing The Pedals with the New FW?
Edit: im Pretty sure that the Pedals Randomly Not Reading Correctly is NOT PCars Related because the Random Pedal issue of Pedals only Reading 50% on Gas, Brake, Clutch in any order or Combination Some time 1 or 2 Read Full but other is 50% or all just 50% Happens when pugged into the PC with No Game Loaded in the Fanatec Properties Screen. It also Happens with PS4 PCars while driving a Track watching the Teletetry Screen.... IMO it is Related to the Pedal FW in FW 226 because i Never Had a Problem with the Pedals V1 or V3 unti i Flashed the V3 Pedals with FW 226.
So Far I Have Not Noticed any Isues with FW 226 and the V2 wheel base.
When i Check tonight if i Still Have the Issue i will Re-Flash wheel with FW 222 and Flash Pedals with FW 226 and see what Happens. Right Now I Have FW 226 on wheel and FW 222 on Pedals and so far all seems well with that Combo...Further testing is Needed though.
Lucky for me My PC/PS4/PS3/XB1 is Right Next to Me so i Can Flash and Re-Flash and Never Leave My Seat... LOL
From my previously testing I noticed the following (but didn't officially report it as my pedals were/are faulty) so I needed to confirm the issue before bombarding Armin with lots of useless faults he may not have been able to reproduce.
When set to auto calibration and Load Cell set to 2.5 and above, MY brake pedal WOULD register a minute amount of activity, but I'm not sure if this is a design issue, firmware, or my faulty pedals (they were legitimately bent) and I posted videos/pics of this, so this issue could have been specific to me.
To remove the small amount of brake activity was impossible, even with manual calibration (for my set)
If you experience any of the above, please report this to support, or post it here on the fanatec forums...
When set to auto calibration, load cell at 2.5 and brf 100 my brake pedal had to travel full distance to reach100% and it took a lot of force for it to register (this was on firmware 112) Which is as expected and how I like it
I have not been able to test 116 as I have no pedals at this moment and therefore my rig is parked up
In project cars (ONLY PCars) the pedals would register only 50% travel when the Pedals were fully depressed. This was resolved by restating the wheel during the game. Leading me to believe that this was again PCars specific, or related to my faulty set.
@Marc
Have you tried re calibrating the pedals and also reflashing the wheel base and ensuring you start from a clean slate (just to reduce any variables)
For example, could you try ...
Detaching the pedals, flash pedal firmware on PC
Flash wheel base on PC
Connect pedals to wheel
Power on wheel
Calibrate wheel/ pedals / gear stick etc auto (first) then manually calibrate (second)
Then report back and let me know. (I will do this exact Method myself today ups manage to get them to me.
Additionally, are you using PC/PS4/XBO and are you connecting the pedals to the PC via USB or directly to the wheel?
What games do you experience this issue in? All games AND drivers or just drivers?
Again, don't feel obliged to answer any of the above, as I will do this today myself, but it could give us a head start in tracking down any issues while my pedals are out of commission...
Ok sold lol. I agree more substance on the accel would be great. Brake seems perfectly fine without one. Have you tried the strong spring to see if that makes a difference?
I didn't try the stronger spring as a few people mentioned that it was very very hard to compress (even with shoes on) so I decided I would try it after I had enjoyed a little time with the damper first.
To be honest, the smooth red spring, plus damper is sublime!
It's probably very similar to having the stiffer spring on, but adjustable.
For example, You could easily increase the resistance on the damper to match that of the spring for sure, so I think the damper is seen as an adjustable spring, particularly because it only dampens in 1 direction (like a spring). This leads me to believe that the smoother spring is likely to be the better partner for the damper as it will allow you to have more range (from soft to hard).
The brake doesn't NEED a damper, but I do use one and it feels again... Much better.
However, if I could only pick 1 ... I'm sure I would take the ACCL Damper over the Brake as it just adds a feeling of substance that I haven't felt on a gaming pedal before.
For full-immersion get 2 but if you only want 1 it really has to go on the accl pedal, really does make that pedal feel "real" and the brake is already very close "as-is"
I don't think you will be disappointed though as long as you set it to 0 (unless you have the legs of a bear)
Edit:
An interesting point.
Since I added my damper to my throttle, I have reduced the number of times I have spun out. For example: If I am under pressure (or panicking) I have been known to "floor it" coming out of a corner, just a millisecond to early, my rear end would start to loose traction, I can feel the car turning, I am now loosing time fighting this tank slapped...., and inevitably... it's bye bye Natalie
With the damper it means the pedal can't just be fully depressed in an instant (on/off) meaning under stress, when I slam the throttle down, it now has that tension, substance, resistance and causes the pedal to depress fractionally slower, which in turn actually regulates my throttle application and therefore reduces my chances of a spin out undear the exact same conditions!
If that's not a reason to buy one I don't know what is
I was unfortunate to receive a faulty item, but my replacement is en route, the pedals and dampers feel amazing, they legitimately have improved MY particular driving style (same speed but less spin outs) and they completely immerse me.
Anyone who hasn't got a damper for the v3 really is missing out on the main pedal advancement over the V2 (Imo)
I've not tested 116 yet (only 1.07 and 1.12) so as soon as my pedals arrive (looks like monday now .. Agh UPS) I'll get on it and really test every combination and pin down any issues with them.
This time I can rule out any hardware issues
If the whole world were Sim Racers it would be a better Place.
@Natalie and Joseph, I purchased one damper and installed it in the throttle ... first with the stock spring and a damper setting of 6... worked well and ended the floppy pedal syndrome.... after a bit of racing that way I changed over to the stronger spring without the damper... much better than the weaker spring as far as feel ...and improved the ability to feather the throttle. However, still made it way to easy to apply to much throttle and attain wheel spin .. so, I have now reinstalled the damper with the stronger spring, and I have set the damper to 0 as well . this set up makes you really think about going to full throttle [if that makes sense] and helps in managing high horse power rear wheel drive car , where rear wheel spin is easy to attain.
I am one of those who uses the pedals in socks, so the older style pedal plates are a must when using the stronger spring and damper. However if you use your pedals with shoes on [ high heels for some] then I really think the stronger spring with the damper on the throttle is a must... the brake suits me as well , but again if I were racing with shoes on , I would be testing the damper on the brake as well.
As a side note , be careful changing the clutch spring , the screws on the clutch rod seem to strip easily , one of mine is stripped from the factory , and the one that I could remove was difficult to align the threads [because of spring tension] to avoid cross threading when I was re-installing it.
My advice would to purchase one damper for the throttle and test that on the brake as well to see if you want to purchase as second damper. Also , when using the pedal extensions, it make changing the vibration motor a bit difficult, it makes it a bit easier if you install the vibration motor mount with the hex head screw interior of the pedal bracket and the nut behind the pedal plate, and take care not to get the motor wire behind a screw head or washer, almost severed mine.
No, that is really easy ... the only issue I had was getting the damper wire behind the washer of the motor bracket ... I taped it out of the way and then realized that installing the screw in the opposite direction made that less likely [no washer] and easier.. lucky for me , the wire is now just flat and not severed.
I may try the stronger spring, however, as I like the D shape pedals (and bare feet) I think my toes may snap off
It's great to know that the damper on the accl affects you in a similar way, it really does subconsciously make you hesitant about slamming the pedal down to the max as it "feels" like there will be repercussions if you do.
Good to know about the screws too, I noticed the same thing when I dismantled mine, and I like the idea of reversing the screw on the motor, as I did find it very cramped in there when everything was attached :-bd
I have an issue with the new update. During the flash process it hung and I had to hard boot. Now my pedals are not seen. I tried reinstalling software but no good.....Is there a fix or recovery mode so I do not have to RMA. I just received them a month ago. I'm using the pedals on PC with a 500 thrustmaster.
Thank you
@ Natalie, the D pads with the stronger spring lasted about two hours... and left a raised area on my foot where the screws are located. I would only recommend that combination with shoes , but most people are tougher than me. I think if you were a sim-racer and heel toe shifting was important, that that combo may work best. I only do this deal because local law enforcement and my insurance company frown on my doing it on the streets. enjoy the day.
Although, The feel of the pedals still differs from that of a street car, it is much improved in the V3's. I think I'll need to test that by driving my car in socks.
Sim racing really scratches that itch for me too.
I tend to drive in barefeet (or socks) a lot, and as my accl and clutch are quite heavy, I get a very close approximation from the V3 with dampers attached. Not perfect, but A much closer approximation than any other pedal I've used, including V2 and V3 without damper attached.
Try driving your car in bare feet (it takes a while to adjust) then pop on some boots or similar, usually takes me a good 5 minutes to settle in
Some times I wear my boots (calf high) when driving short distances, and when I do it's like I've popped in "Kangaroo Petrol" as I tend to be overly aggressive on the pedals as I adjust to my heavier foot ware