I have an issue with the new update. During the flash process it hung and I had to hard boot. Now my pedals are not seen. I tried reinstalling software but no good.....Is there a fix or recovery mode so I do not have to RMA. I just received them a month ago. I'm using the pedals on PC with a 500 thrustmaster.
Thank you
I had the same issue yesterday, unplug the usb on the PEDAL side while Fanatec window is open. Plug it back in, close Fanatec window and restart Fanatec program...now it should be recognized again!!
Joe Rugo I have Changed Every Screw in my Pedals to Nice Shiney Stainless Steel.... I would suggest that you do the Same... I even Changed the Screws on the Sides also... it pretty much Future Proofs the pedals i can be Sure if i Need to take them apart that i will not have any Stripped Screws i cant get out.
Also i installed the pedal adjustable extentions using the Regular Pedal Platsles... Feels Great... I inverted the Brake and Throttle Rumble Motors to make them easier to install and also because of that the pedals are Now Ready for when my Dampers arrive....Matter of Fact thats the First thing i did was change ALL the Screws!!!
Can you adjust steering angle, linearity, sensitivity, and other options through the direct steering wheel hub and base like the CSR Elite or do you have to plug it into a computer every time to adjust things?
Can you adjust steering angle, linearity, sensitivity, and other options through the direct steering wheel hub and base like the CSR Elite or do you have to plug it into a computer every time to adjust things?
This for Xone and V2 base with universal hub
Everything isnFully adjustable from the wheel like on the CSR-E and there are 2x more settings the CSR-E does Not have FOR & BrF
@ Khashy, you still have the same on wheel tuning menu as on the CSR-E .. however, three of the adjustments available in Foraz 4 , FOR SPR and DRP are not in FM5. They are there but , if I am correct, they are game dependent. And if you use the V3's pedals there is an additional set to adjust the brake pressure.
Thanks guys, just updated the firmware at work so when I go home I will try it out. I have the old Elite Pedals that has the brake booster, hopefully all those functions still work.
@ Khashy, they work the same as before. just make sure all the connections are properly connected, from the pedals to the wheel. My experience with the V2's pedals [elite] was that the connection at the pedal and the inline connection came loose and affected the function of the base.
@ Grimey , the problem with the clutch screws looks more like it is the threads in the block that holds the upper clutch arm, which I think is aluminum and by nature soft. Regardless, it is a minor issue not affecting the use. It can be easily solved [once I get the screw extracted by using a longer bolt and nut to hold the arm in place, or have Fanatec ship out a new block and screws. For now the upper arm is well secured [if not permanently] and works fine.
After doing this update and trying to set up my wheel, it does nothing but spin and has a red light illuminated. How can I get this thing to pair with the xboxone.
@Khashy, try up dating the wheel without the pedals attached, and you may have better success. Also , use driver V219 if Xbox is the console you are using. and other than windows 10 ids your operating system. This is actually why I mentioned the pedal connection, since this was my first experience as well. Some where back in on of these blog I went step by step as to what worked for me. I had mistakenly plugged the pedals into the data port so make sure you double check all connections. I seem to remember that the connection for the clutch on the pedals themselves had worked loose and affected the base. I will see if I can find the earlier post and get back to you. which driver did you download?? The driver I am using for Xbox is the V219 which can be located on the product page for the base ... download button. I have seen where people have said to make sure to delete other drivers prior to downloading the new one, but I'm not a techspert. <take that spell checker
I did the 226 Beta and I did it with just the base only...NO pedals connected, shifter, or actualy steering wheel hub. I have a MAC only so I brought the base to work and used my computer there to do the update. Does everything may be have to be attached and then do the update? Sucks as to the directions are weird and for 35 pages I would expect more clarity but may be I'm just not great with these things lol.
So, this worked for me, and if you scroll thru the blog around pages 1thru 3 which is when the hubs hit and people were getting them up and running. Mid June
New driver 219 and firmware released you will find other people who have had the same issue... again for now I would stick with the V219 driver with the 094 firmware some of the other drivers are Beta and not the final version.
1] plug base into wall outlet
2] connect the base to your PC with the USB
3] open the controller window on your PC
4] power the unit on with the start button on base [do not hold button or it will go to the manual update mode.] light should be green.
5]switch base to PC mode using the double square+Y at same time [ lights should be red and the wheel base should now show up in the controller window as shown on page 17
6] double click the wheel button in the controller window
7] go through the flash firmware procedure
and yes the wheel does go to xbox mode......go back to PC mode by pressing double square + y
and double click the wheel in the controller window... enter the tuning menu by press the black tuning button [CAL stop and 5-1 appears on the LED]
8] center the wheel and press = + A
and I got the same failed message and went right back to racing on the Xbox , so all should be good, hope this helps
oh, almost forgot, I'm thinking that after you get the wheel and base squared away , you can re-flash the firmware with the pedals attached. Doing it this way should at least isolate the issue.
@ Khashy, sorry I can't help with the Mac issue .. is there not a driver for that ? The manual says to update with the all the add-ons connected to the wheel, as I remember it. But some have found that adding the pedals etc. and re-flashing the firmware works. Have a friend with a windows laptop?? Buy them a beer and when they're not looking .... well you know . it's racing just joking .. would be nice if we could do this VIA the XBOX and PS4...
First update works best with everything attached BUT the XOne hub!!! After update restart turn of the base and mount the hub...restart base and CALIBRATE centre wheel first, before turning to pc mode...so when the light is green. See full manual.
There are people around here who made Windows work on a Mac...but you'll have to dig through the XOne hub shipping now topic on how to!!! I know they named the specific program for it and how to use it!!!
@ Khashy, the new update procedure is really easy , once things are set . That said, I never updated the firmware on the CSR-E simply because I didn't get how to get the thing to boot loader mode or even what "boot loader" mode is... it worked fine with FM5 so I figured why mess up a good thing. Sometimes the instructions get clouded in translation, leaving that bit of a doubt as to if you are doing it properly. Which is what make this blog important, so of the people are tech savvy, and some of us are there tech newbie's <Me] ...
hope things get worked out for ya ... I'll check back in a bit let us know. maybe someone else can give you more info..
Ok Im using FW 226 on the V2 wheel and on the V3 Pedals ive Flashed FW 222 ... This is a Great Combo!!! the 226 FW Feels Great!!! Its Feels Responsive and Very accurate.... The 226 pedal FW Still Needs some work on it... For Now im going to keep the Pedal FW from 222 Flashed to my Pedals untill they come out with the perfect final FW build!!!
FW 226 on the wheel and Pedal FW from 222 Combo Feels that Good its the Best ive felt yet and its showing in my Lap times also \:D/
I Recomend Trying FW 226 Wheel and FW 222 Pedal combo if you Flashed your V3 Pedals with the Pedal FW from 226 and are Having Problems with your pedals Not Reading Right.
Grimey...could you please seperate the DRIVER version from FIRMWARE version...cause it's really confusing mate!! Drivers aren't the same as firmware!! If I understand right you've got fw 116 on your V2 base from driver version 226; and fw 112 from driver version 223 OR 222 ? On the V3 Pedals?
This is way above my pay grade lol, I have asked 15 people and not one person has a windows computer. I really appreciate the help and when I go home I will start knocking on neighbors doors trying to score one. I'm going to look into that mac version of doing things, this may help big time. I spent 5 hours yesterday setting this thing up and when it came time for me to enjoy, I got a swift kick in the nuts. I get off work in about an hour or so, I will update with what happens.
Does anybody know when the live support kicks back on or am I screwed for the whole weekend?
Again for people owning a Mac. Copied this out of V3 pedals topic!! All I did was using the search option on Mac !!!
Stuart Barrie July 21 edited July 21 Flag Chris Broshar said: Has anyone had any issues getting their V2 base to recognise the V3 pedals? I'm running it on a PS4 and don't own a PC to be able to check for firmware upgrades (i'm a mac user). Any ideas? I would have thought they would have worked out the box.
Mine are running awesome (pCars on PS4) - HOWEVER - I did upgrade the firmware. Before upgrading the firmware, the pedals did NOT behave properly. I'm on a Mac too. If you don't have a Windows computer here's what to do.
1) Install VMWare fusion or Parallels. If you don't own either, just get the 30 day free trial. 2) Go to http://dev.modern.ie/tools/vms/windows/ and download the VM for IE11 on Win7 -- for the platform you chose (VMWare or Parallels). [This is a developer site provided by Microsoft.] 3) Boot up the VM. 4) Plug in your pedals and attach the USB device to the VM. 5) Install the updated fanatec software from their site 6) Perform the firmware upgrade per the instructions
You should be up in running in little to no time -- not a penny spent on Windows.
-Scott
Awesome thanks for everybody's help. Worked out that it was just a dodgy third party RJ12 cable that I was using. A shame as the one supplied is never long enough but at least it now all works. Now to find some good settings and get it all dialled in.
Grimey...could you please seperate the DRIVER version from FIRMWARE version...cause it's really confusing mate!! Drivers aren't the same as firmware!! If I understand right you've got fw 116 on your V2 base from driver version 226; and fw 112 from driver version 223 OR 222 ? On the V3 Pedals?
Give me a Sec i Have to plug my Pedals in to tell you exactly... But its pretty Straight forward because you can only find the Wheel and Pedal FW #'s inside the Specific Driver that you flashed it from... I thought just Giving the Driver #'s flashed to each device was simpler... I will post the FW #s in 15min.
EDIT: I Have FW 116 on Wheel and FW 1.8 on Pedals... What a Great Combo!!! Feels almost Perfect!!!
I did the 226 Beta and I did it with just the base only...NO pedals connected, shifter, or actualy steering wheel hub. I have a MAC only so I brought the base to work and used my computer there to do the update. Does everything may be have to be attached and then do the update? Sucks as to the directions are weird and for 35 pages I would expect more clarity but may be I'm just not great with these things lol.
The V3 Pedal FW and Wheel FW Need to be Flashed independent of each other. you can Flash the wheel with the Pedals connected No Problem but the Pedals will Not update only the wheel.
@Khashy, that shouldn't matter... once you get the ability to update the driver and firmware for all. I would recommend the V219 again firmware 94 .. all seems well with that on Xbox with Forza 5 and the V2's. With Antoine and Grimey you are in the company of Jedi when it comes to this, so I will defer...
Joe rugo FW 116 is GREAT!!! the V3 pedal FW that's built in Driver 226 Seems to have issues but i would Strongly recommend that you and Khashy Flash FW 116 to your V2 bases!!! only thing for you Joe is that Do Not Update your pedals with FW 112 that's built into Driver 226. If you have already done so i suggest that you uninstall Driver 226 from your PC... Install Driver 222 and then Flash your pedals ONLY with FW 1.8 tha's built into Driver 222.... Then you can Re-install Driver 226 back to your PC if you want.... That's what i did and i just left Driver 222 in the PC no big Deal as im Still on windows 7... Yup i Have windows 10 ready for down load but i refuse to upgrade from windows 7 until i know for sure my Fanatec Gear will work problem free with it... until then No upgrade for me.
@ Khashy i recommend Flashing your wheel to FW 116 and don't worry about the pedal part that's not for your pedals you will be good with no problems.
and Thanks for the compliment joe we are all 1 big sim racing family \m/
Grimey...could you please seperate the DRIVER version from FIRMWARE version...cause it's really confusing mate!! Drivers aren't the same as firmware!! If I understand right you've got fw 116 on your V2 base from driver version 226; and fw 112 from driver version 223 OR 222 ? On the V3 Pedals?
Give me a Sec i Have to plug my Pedals in to tell you exactly... But its pretty Straight forward because you can only find the Wheel and Pedal FW #'s inside the Specific Driver that you flashed it from... I thought just Giving the Driver #'s flashed to each device was simpler... I will post the FW #s in 15min.
EDIT: I Have FW 116 on Wheel and FW 1.8 on Pedals... What a Great Combo!!! Feels almost Perfect!!!
I tried this combo yesterday, but with auto cal, do not work on Pcars, with Firmware 110 on wheel and 1.8 in V3 is possible calibrate manualy with out lose BrF
Comments
Also i installed the pedal adjustable extentions using the Regular Pedal Platsles... Feels Great... I inverted the Brake and Throttle Rumble Motors to make them easier to install and also because of that the pedals are Now Ready for when my Dampers arrive....Matter of Fact thats the First thing i did was change ALL the Screws!!!
@ Khashy, they work the same as before. just make sure all the connections are properly connected, from the pedals to the wheel. My experience with the V2's pedals [elite] was that the connection at the pedal and the inline connection came loose and affected the function of the base.
@ Grimey , the problem with the clutch screws looks more like it is the threads in the block that holds the upper clutch arm, which I think is aluminum and by nature soft. Regardless, it is a minor issue not affecting the use. It can be easily solved [once I get the screw extracted by using a longer bolt and nut to hold the arm in place, or have Fanatec ship out a new block and screws. For now the upper arm is well secured [if not permanently] and works fine.
@Khashy, try up dating the wheel without the pedals attached, and you may have better success. Also , use driver V219 if Xbox is the console you are using. and other than windows 10 ids your operating system. This is actually why I mentioned the pedal connection, since this was my first experience as well. Some where back in on of these blog I went step by step as to what worked for me. I had mistakenly plugged the pedals into the data port so make sure you double check all connections. I seem to remember that the connection for the clutch on the pedals themselves had worked loose and affected the base. I will see if I can find the earlier post and get back to you. which driver did you download?? The driver I am using for Xbox is the V219 which can be located on the product page for the base ... download button. I have seen where people have said to make sure to delete other drivers prior to downloading the new one, but I'm not a techspert. <take that spell checker
So, this worked for me, and if you scroll thru the blog around pages 1thru 3 which is when the hubs hit and people were getting them up and running. Mid June
1] plug base into wall outlet
2] connect the base to your PC with the USB
3] open the controller window on your PC
4] power the unit on with the start button on base [do not hold button or it will go to the manual update mode.] light should be green.
5]switch base to PC mode using the double square+Y at same time [ lights should be red and the wheel base should now show up in the controller window as shown on page 17
6] double click the wheel button in the controller window
7] go through the flash firmware procedure
and yes the wheel does go to xbox mode......go back to PC mode by pressing double square + y
and double click the wheel in the controller window... enter the tuning menu by press the black tuning button [CAL stop and 5-1 appears on the LED]
8] center the wheel and press = + A
and I got the same failed message and went right back to racing on the Xbox , so all should be good, hope this helps
There are people around here who made Windows work on a Mac...but you'll have to dig through the XOne hub shipping now topic on how to!!! I know they named the specific program for it and how to use it!!!
@ Khashy, the new update procedure is really easy , once things are set . That said, I never updated the firmware on the CSR-E simply because I didn't get how to get the thing to boot loader mode or even what "boot loader" mode is... it worked fine with FM5 so I figured why mess up a good thing. Sometimes the instructions get clouded in translation, leaving that bit of a doubt as to if you are doing it properly. Which is what make this blog important, so of the people are tech savvy, and some of us are there tech newbie's <Me] ...
hope things get worked out for ya ... I'll check back in a bit let us know. maybe someone else can give you more info..
FW 226 on the wheel and Pedal FW from 222 Combo Feels that Good its the Best ive felt yet and its showing in my Lap times also \:D/
I Recomend Trying FW 226 Wheel and FW 222 Pedal combo if you Flashed your V3 Pedals with the Pedal FW from 226 and are Having Problems with your pedals Not Reading Right.
If I understand right you've got fw 116 on your V2 base from driver version 226; and fw 112 from driver version 223 OR 222 ? On the V3 Pedals?
Stuart Barrie
July 21 edited July 21 Flag
Chris Broshar said:
Has anyone had any issues getting their V2 base to recognise the V3 pedals? I'm running it on a PS4 and don't own a PC to be able to check for firmware upgrades (i'm a mac user). Any ideas? I would have thought they would have worked out the box.
Mine are running awesome (pCars on PS4) - HOWEVER - I did upgrade the firmware. Before upgrading the firmware, the pedals did NOT behave properly. I'm on a Mac too. If you don't have a Windows computer here's what to do.
1) Install VMWare fusion or Parallels. If you don't own either, just get the 30 day free trial.
2) Go to http://dev.modern.ie/tools/vms/windows/ and download the VM for IE11 on Win7 -- for the platform you chose (VMWare or Parallels). [This is a developer site provided by Microsoft.]
3) Boot up the VM.
4) Plug in your pedals and attach the USB device to the VM.
5) Install the updated fanatec software from their site
6) Perform the firmware upgrade per the instructions
You should be up in running in little to no time -- not a penny spent on Windows.
-Scott
Awesome thanks for everybody's help. Worked out that it was just a dodgy third party RJ12 cable that I was using. A shame as the one supplied is never long enough but at least it now all works. Now to find some good settings and get it all dialled in.
EDIT: I Have FW 116 on Wheel and FW 1.8 on Pedals... What a Great Combo!!! Feels almost Perfect!!!
The V3 Pedal FW and Wheel FW Need to be Flashed independent of each other. you can Flash the wheel with the Pedals connected No Problem but the Pedals will Not update only the wheel.
Hope this Helps
If you have already done so i suggest that you uninstall Driver 226 from your PC... Install Driver 222 and then Flash your pedals ONLY with FW 1.8 tha's built into Driver 222.... Then you can Re-install Driver 226 back to your PC if you want.... That's what i did and i just left Driver 222 in the PC no big Deal as im Still on windows 7... Yup i Have windows 10 ready for down load but i refuse to upgrade from windows 7 until i know for sure my Fanatec Gear will work problem free with it... until then No upgrade for me.
@ Khashy i recommend Flashing your wheel to FW 116 and don't worry about the pedal part that's not for your pedals you will be good with no problems.
and Thanks for the compliment joe we are all 1 big sim racing family \m/