I've just put the latest version of Fanaleds online. It should be compatible with the new drivers now. http://www.fanaleds.com/downloads
Does this work with the Xbox One hub ? Gear shifts,etc?
We haven't added support for the hub on the PC, so I don't think it will work, but you could give it a try (since we never even tried it). Just to clarify, this is only available on the PC and will not be able to work on a console.
Just see for XOne specifications Joseph...Google is your friend haha Anyone know what button combo to use to go from pc mode back to XOne mode with Fw 116 ? Double squares and X gives me PS3 mode and I can't seem to find the right combo. Okay found it. You CAN use the double squares on the three button box, but you HAVE to use X,Y and B from the top box.
Did'nt work for me...
Just updated from v.222 to 226 and it works fine now with 3 button box, y+squares/x+squares.
Im Getting impatient... I want and Need a New V3 Pedal FW ~X( Where is FW 107??? It would be sooo Simple for them to post it!!! Even if all the Extra Equipment wont work, Hand Brake Etc...We would still be able to enjoy the Basic Equipment until a better solution is available.
I have a 3 day weekend and its gonna be wasted if i cant enjoy my V2 wheel.... I work hard so I Live for the 3 day weekends just to sit back and enjoy my toyz!!! FANATEC/Thomas/Armin POST V3 Pedal FW 107
I use them with V2 pedals...not tested thoroughly, but it felt as if not the whole pedal range was used in the Forza 6 demo...I also had to shutdown and power up the wheel several times before it recognized my gas-pedal...(I did not update the pedals seperately)
> Arnaud Rossard
> Have fixed the driver properties problem by deleting and re installing V219 driver. The windows 10 / win 7 updated pc (gaming) I had to run in compatibility mode, but the win 8.1 laptop version ran ok when tested it on that (also running Win 10).Cured the non wheel led/gear display now I can access the properties page as well.
Just emailed CS with the above problems just wait to see about the chirping low volume multi tone noise. The mrs reckons it sounds like "The mice playing the mouse organ on Bagpuss" ............mmmm not sure that would be a good description for CS..lol.
I too am experiencing this chirping noise that you speak of. I've had my CSWv2 for 2 months and last week the noise became constant. I contacted CS and they advised me to update the firmware. I have only macs at home so had to take my wheel to work to update haha! Anyway, once firmware 116 was updated the noise stopped instantly. However, it came back after a 30 min session, although at a much lower volume. I would be very keen to know if others are experiencing this issue and whether it's firmware related.
Yes, for me too. That began with a fan noise, from the left side (when you have wheel in front of you). I received mine there's 4 months, and it appeared around 3 or 4 weeks after... So, updated CSWV2 to fw 110 and it fixe this issu. But just before I updated to fw 116, a new fan noise appeared, in the rear fan (it seems), and more louder than the first noise. Fw 116 change nothing, I constantly had this frightful noise after 20 or 30 minutes of driving. Just like in the video of Toni Cardoso Cardoso , here :
I'm so disappointed about that, it's realy unconfortable to hear. Perhaps is there something to do by removing the rear capo, I don't now (
And sorry for my english ;o)Hi I sent it to repair my wheel and is solved by now but I'll be cautious because I really started making noise at two or three weeks of use.
Hello anyone know how long it takes the Fanatec Sat repairs.
Hi I sent it to repair my wheel and is solved by now but I'll be cautious because I really started making noise at two or three weeks of use.
Have fixed the driver properties problem by deleting and re installing V219 driver. The windows 10 / win 7 updated pc (gaming) I had to run in compatibility mode, but the win 8.1 laptop version ran ok when tested it on that (also running Win 10).
Cured the non wheel led/gear display now I can access the properties page as well.
Just emailed CS with the above problems just wait to see about the chirping low volume multi tone noise. The mrs reckons it sounds like "The mice playing the mouse organ on Bagpuss" ............mmmm not sure that would be a good description for CS..lol.
I too am experiencing this chirping noise that you speak of. I've had my CSWv2 for 2 months and last week the noise became constant. I contacted CS and they advised me to update the firmware. I have only macs at home so had to take my wheel to work to update haha! Anyway, once firmware 116 was updated the noise stopped instantly. However, it came back after a 30 min session, although at a much lower volume. I would be very keen to know if others are experiencing this issue and whether it's firmware related.
Yes, for me too. That began with a fan noise, from the left side (when you have wheel in front of you). I received mine there's 4 months, and it appeared around 3 or 4 weeks after... So, updated CSWV2 to fw 110 and it fixe this issu. But just before I updated to fw 116, a new fan noise appeared, in the rear fan (it seems), and more louder than the first noise. Fw 116 change nothing, I constantly had this frightful noise after 20 or 30 minutes of driving. Just like in the video of Toni Cardoso Cardoso , here :
I'm so disappointed about that, it's realy unconfortable to hear. Perhaps is there something to do by removing the rear capo, I don't now ( And sorry for my english ;o))
The xbox one has a auto dimming feature that enables if you don't touch your controller for about ten minutes and it doesn't recognize any inputs from the v2 other than the buttons and shifters. So if you drive with an automatic so you don't have to shift and you don't press any other button for ten minutes then your screen gets dark and you cant see where your going. Is there any way to fix this?
the drivers 219, 222beta and also 226 do not work correct in all Simbin games, like GTL, GTR2, Race07 etc.
When you go from the track to the pits, with esc. to adjust the car setup and back on the track the ffb is gone !!! I'd try many times in all the upper games with different driver , but no way. It's always the same with the CSW v1 base with BMW GT2 rim and also with the CSR-Elite Wheel. When you start a new session everything woks well, until a pit-stop.
The only perfect driver for me is the 205. It works all time correct with FW 53 and 109 for the CSW and FW 757 for CSR Elite.
The xbox one has a auto dimming feature that enables if you don't touch your controller for about ten minutes and it doesn't recognize any inputs from the v2 other than the buttons and shifters. So if you drive with an automatic so you don't have to shift and you don't press any other button for ten minutes then your screen gets dark and you cant see where your going. Is there any way to fix this?
That's an XOne issue....for now tab a button, look back for example, every once and a while...for now the only solution.
ACL has been introduced because players using a wheel weren't able to match joypad players lap times. With a joypad it's easy to press two buttons simultaneously.
Well the best solution for ACL in my opinion would be that the game would follow the CSW v2 setting for it. This way you wouldn't 'cheat' and would not have to go to the game's menu setting each time you switch cars that do or don't have flippers...
For me it's quite annoying to have to switch these settings ingame each time...
Off topic: Who has a CSL and do you have a mod that helps reduce pedal play? For example, When I apply the brake my pedal mount (bars/rods/pedals) jumps about 2cm causing my pedals to "thunk" every time I apply the brakes?
This has become more apparent since adding the extensions on the V3 due to the added angle... And mods/solutions ideas to resolve this?
On topic: The ACL function would be very hand if it returned in the next FW betas. I'd also LOVE to see an "invert gear shift" option added to the FW as I always forget to do this (in game) every time I change car in PCars, which ends up in an inverted set of paddles while trying to race competitively, as you can't back out and change the settings during a game, without exciting entirely :-/
Other than that the new V3 pedals are working well so far
I'm currently looking to grab some more stuff for my rig (Direct Screw on Replacement Shifter Knob / CSW Phone Holder / etc)
ACL feature is not cheating, nor has it been removed, it's never been on the Clubsport wheel, it was a setting for Xbox 360 wheels for Forza.
People are always referring to realism for driving games, to get as close to their own car or past experience for example. In real life, a road car with paddle shifters is always faster than a manual car with clutch, no loss of acceleration and seamless shifts = faster.
In Forza, there are 3 choices for you to choose, auto, manual and manual with clutch. Auto is slow, manual is faster and manual with clutch is the fastest. So, in Forza, if you want to drive a paddle shift/sequential shift car using a clutch pedal, then that's up to you, but I would rather use the paddles with no clutch pedal. But by choosing this method I am at a disadvantage, fair ?, no.
ACL was added when the CSR Elite came out and was then added to the CSR later. It is also an option on the Thrustmaster TX (official Forza wheel), and it is only used in Forza as far as I am aware. I don't like being called a cheat when I'm doing nothing wrong, I don't cut corners, and I like to drive a car with the paddles, so why should I be punished, or called a cheat.
I modified my V1 pedals to get a better brake pedal, I took the sensor off of the clutch so I could put a big plate over the brake and clutch pedals for more pressure/resistance, it works great for me, but in Forza, without ACL, it makes me slower, I could use a button for the clutch, but that is a pain in the ass. If ACL does not return, I will modify my hub, there is a spare terminal on the shifter micro switch, so no big deal.
Just getting my point across for all you realism drivers out there
ACL feature is not cheating, nor has it been removed, it's never been on the Clubsport wheel, it was a setting for Xbox 360 wheels for Forza.
I think, that when people mention ACL being removed etc that they actually mean...
The previous Fanatec wheel (that supported the Xbox platform) had the ACL function, however the current Fanatec wheel (that supports the Xbox platform) doesn't, and could it be implemented in the future (semantics)
I think most are just querying if it's possible for the feature to be added to the firmware and active only when in wheel base is in XBOX mode, for example, which I think is reasonable.
Off topic: Who has a CSL and do you have a mod that helps reduce pedal play? For example, When I apply the brake my pedal mount (bars/rods/pedals) jumps about 2cm causing my pedals to "thunk" every time I apply the brakes?
This has become more apparent since adding the extensions on the V3 due to the added angle... And mods/solutions ideas to resolve this?
I've been struggling with the same issue ever since I got the CSL. The best I got until now was putting a block of wood underneath the front end of the pedals, but that still doesn't completely prevent the pedals from tilting forward.
Actually last week I decided to have another look at this. One option would be to see if I can attach a horizontal bar to the rear end of the pedals which then extends until underneath the sides of the CSL, which would the prevent the rear of the pedals to come up. The problem with that is that it needs to be a rigid bar, so a fairly thick metal thing, making it a bit difficult to work with.
Another option would be to put the whole CSL on a wooden board, and screw the rear end of the CSP to it.
Comments
Where is FW 107??? It would be sooo Simple for them to post it!!! Even if all the Extra Equipment wont work, Hand Brake Etc...We would still be able to enjoy the Basic Equipment until a better solution is available.
I have a 3 day weekend and its gonna be wasted if i cant enjoy my V2 wheel.... I work hard so I Live for the 3 day weekends just to sit back and enjoy my toyz!!! FANATEC/Thomas/Armin POST V3 Pedal FW 107
Hi Folks,
the drivers 219, 222beta and also 226 do not work correct in all Simbin games, like GTL, GTR2, Race07 etc.
When you go from the track to the pits, with esc. to adjust the car setup and back on the track the ffb is gone !!! I'd try many times in all the upper games with different driver , but no way. It's always the same with the CSW v1 base with BMW GT2 rim and also with the CSR-Elite Wheel. When you start a new session everything woks well, until a pit-stop.
The only perfect driver for me is the 205. It works all time correct with FW 53 and 109 for the CSW and FW 757 for CSR Elite.
Yes ACL please...
For me it's quite annoying to have to switch these settings ingame each time...
Who has a CSL and do you have a mod that helps reduce pedal play?
For example, When I apply the brake my pedal mount (bars/rods/pedals) jumps about 2cm causing my pedals to "thunk" every time I apply the brakes?
This has become more apparent since adding the extensions on the V3 due to the added angle... And mods/solutions ideas to resolve this?
On topic:
The ACL function would be very hand if it returned in the next FW betas.
I'd also LOVE to see an "invert gear shift" option added to the FW as I always forget to do this (in game) every time I change car in PCars, which ends up in an inverted set of paddles while trying to race competitively, as you can't back out and change the settings during a game, without exciting entirely :-/
Other than that the new V3 pedals are working well so far
I'm currently looking to grab some more stuff for my rig (Direct Screw on Replacement Shifter Knob / CSW Phone Holder / etc)
People are always referring to realism for driving games, to get as close to their own car or past experience for example. In real life, a road car with paddle shifters is always faster than a manual car with clutch, no loss of acceleration and seamless shifts = faster.
In Forza, there are 3 choices for you to choose, auto, manual and manual with clutch. Auto is slow, manual is faster and manual with clutch is the fastest. So, in Forza, if you want to drive a paddle shift/sequential shift car using a clutch pedal, then that's up to you, but I would rather use the paddles with no clutch pedal. But by choosing this method I am at a disadvantage, fair ?, no.
ACL was added when the CSR Elite came out and was then added to the CSR later. It is also an option on the Thrustmaster TX (official Forza wheel), and it is only used in Forza as far as I am aware. I don't like being called a cheat when I'm doing nothing wrong, I don't cut corners, and I like to drive a car with the paddles, so why should I be punished, or called a cheat.
I modified my V1 pedals to get a better brake pedal, I took the sensor off of the clutch so I could put a big plate over the brake and clutch pedals for more pressure/resistance, it works great for me, but in Forza, without ACL, it makes me slower, I could use a button for the clutch, but that is a pain in the ass. If ACL does not return, I will modify my hub, there is a spare terminal on the shifter micro switch, so no big deal.
Just getting my point across for all you realism drivers out there
I think, that when people mention ACL being removed etc that they actually mean...
The previous Fanatec wheel (that supported the Xbox platform) had the ACL function, however the current Fanatec wheel (that supports the Xbox platform) doesn't, and could it be implemented in the future (semantics)
I think most are just querying if it's possible for the feature to be added to the firmware and active only when in wheel base is in XBOX mode, for example, which I think is reasonable.
Actually last week I decided to have another look at this. One option would be to see if I can attach a horizontal bar to the rear end of the pedals which then extends until underneath the sides of the CSL, which would the prevent the rear of the pedals to come up. The problem with that is that it needs to be a rigid bar, so a fairly thick metal thing, making it a bit difficult to work with.
Another option would be to put the whole CSL on a wooden board, and screw the rear end of the CSP to it.
Haven't decided yet which way to go. :-L