Off topic: Who has a CSL and do you have a mod that helps reduce pedal play? For example, When I apply the brake my pedal mount (bars/rods/pedals) jumps about 2cm causing my pedals to "thunk" every time I apply the brakes?
This has become more apparent since adding the extensions on the V3 due to the added angle... And mods/solutions ideas to resolve this?
I've been struggling with the same issue ever since I got the CSL. The best I got until now was putting a block of wood underneath the front end of the pedals, but that still doesn't completely prevent the pedals from tilting forward.
Actually last week I decided to have another look at this. One option would be to see if I can attach a horizontal bar to the rear end of the pedals which then extends until underneath the sides of the CSL, which would the prevent the rear of the pedals to come up. The problem with that is that it needs to be a rigid bar, so a fairly thick metal thing, making it a bit difficult to work with.
Another option would be to put the whole CSL on a wooden board, and screw the rear end of the CSP to it.
Haven't decided yet which way to go. :-L
Yea, it's always been there, but since adding the extenders to the V3 I think the added angle of pressure is making the movement more apparent. It's maybe 1 or 2 cm but causes a good ole thud every time I brake.
I was thinking of adding rubber door stoppers, under the part of the connecting rods (the part that hangs over the front of the CSL by 2 or 3") would do the job. As I could flip them up and down as required (if that makes sense)
If you decide and find a working solution, don't forget to let me know
it's a bit of home center engineering ... but it works
That's a lot of engineering and work right there... :-0 I was thinking of a more "off the shelf" solution However that's some impressive work right there
You can use the A button for clutch with shifting...just like the controller guys do...LoL
Do you drive all cars in P Cars in manual using the clutch pedal ?
Nope..there I use the auto clutch function OFF/ON via my USB keyboard....they weren't that stupid to implement the penalty...
I've hated it since FM2....it's totally NOT realistic to drive a McLaren P1 with Clutch and flippers...that's why I only drive the lower classes in FM1 till FM5. And hate the Horizon series...so never bought them !!
Off topic: Who has a CSL and do you have a mod that helps reduce pedal play? For example, When I apply the brake my pedal mount (bars/rods/pedals) jumps about 2cm causing my pedals to "thunk" every time I apply the brakes?
This has become more apparent since adding the extensions on the V3 due to the added angle... And mods/solutions ideas to resolve this?
I've been struggling with the same issue ever since I got the CSL. The best I got until now was putting a block of wood underneath the front end of the pedals, but that still doesn't completely prevent the pedals from tilting forward.
Actually last week I decided to have another look at this. One option would be to see if I can attach a horizontal bar to the rear end of the pedals which then extends until underneath the sides of the CSL, which would the prevent the rear of the pedals to come up. The problem with that is that it needs to be a rigid bar, so a fairly thick metal thing, making it a bit difficult to work with.
Another option would be to put the whole CSL on a wooden board, and screw the rear end of the CSP to it.
Haven't decided yet which way to go. :-L
Natalie...in stead of buying more and more Fanatec gear...first invest in a RSeat RS1....once put together...DREAMMMMM of being in a real race car...lol
And as far as I can see you can buy the RS1 frame only and mount this beauty, The 2000 II according to the drawing (IF STILL AVAILABLE), in the frame...I just measured it and has to fit !!
Off topic: Who has a CSL and do you have a mod that helps reduce pedal play? For example, When I apply the brake my pedal mount (bars/rods/pedals) jumps about 2cm causing my pedals to "thunk" every time I apply the brakes?
This has become more apparent since adding the extensions on the V3 due to the added angle... And mods/solutions ideas to resolve this?
I've been struggling with the same issue ever since I got the CSL. The best I got until now was putting a block of wood underneath the front end of the pedals, but that still doesn't completely prevent the pedals from tilting forward.
Actually last week I decided to have another look at this. One option would be to see if I can attach a horizontal bar to the rear end of the pedals which then extends until underneath the sides of the CSL, which would the prevent the rear of the pedals to come up. The problem with that is that it needs to be a rigid bar, so a fairly thick metal thing, making it a bit difficult to work with.
Another option would be to put the whole CSL on a wooden board, and screw the rear end of the CSP to it.
Haven't decided yet which way to go. :-L
Natalie...in stead of buying more and more Fanatec gear...first invest in a RSeat RS1....once put together...DREAMMMMM of being in a real race car...lol
The CSL is a great rig though Its comfy, light weight, portable, sleek design looks fantastic, even in a modern living room It's sturdy as hell and I already own it as I bought it when I ordered my V2 Base
Yeah...but you wanted to build a second rig...if I remeber right... LOL
That's very true, I do want to build Rig 2.0... I have a set of modified V2 pedals that are hardly used (as my V3 arrived only a few months after my V2), loads of rims, I just need a V2 Base and a rig.
The CSL is good value, and I'm hoping that the CSL 2.0 (as they are currently out of stock so I'm just speculating here) will hopefully have some improvements that I mentioned along the way.
Tilting Seat (back/head/angle) Quick release locks for adjusting angle of wheel/pedals/seat etc (instead of screws) A location for the CSHB as its not current,y compatible (although I was able to get it on there with a little jiggery pokery) More locations for mounting the CSS-SQ Etc
With those mods this rig would have almost no downside!
You can use the A button for clutch with shifting...just like the controller guys do...LoL
Do you drive all cars in P Cars in manual using the clutch pedal ?
Nope..there I use the auto clutch function OFF/ON via my USB keyboard....they weren't that stupid to implement the penalty...
I've hated it since FM2....it's totally NOT realistic to drive a McLaren P1 with Clutch and flippers...that's why I only drive the lower classes in FM1 till FM5. And hate the Horizon series...so never bought them !!
So, it's OK to use auto clutch if it's a game setting, but you're cheating if it's a wheel setting. This is the point that I was trying to get across, double standards.
I'm having an issue with my V2 Base and Xbox One Hub.
The RSB and LSB still output as RB and LB, rendering them useless. Also, in the Forza 6 Demo, there is a very, very strong wheel centering force. If I park and try to turn the wheel in any of the available vehicles, I cannot turn it all the way without fear of breaking my V2 Base. And when I let go, it snaps back to center with wrist-crunching force. My friends' TX wheel does not do this; the wheel will stay to the side, as it should.
Does anyone know if these were fixed in either one of the last two firmware updates? Thanks.
I believe in driving cars the way they are built, so if driving a manual trans car you use the shifter and clutch...but when driving a DSG car or race car they have DSG transmissions which is an auto clutch paddle shifting transmission and we are not being realistic by not having this feature.
Around €1000, depends on what u want with it. I bought the AC edition, cause it comes WITH the Fanatec shifter mount and keyboarda and mouse tray. And if the Fanatec Sparco 2000 II comes/or ever will be available...I'm buying that one to replace the original seat.
I'm having an issue with my V2 Base and Xbox One Hub.
The RSB and LSB still output as RB and LB, rendering them useless. Also, in the Forza 6 Demo, there is a very, very strong wheel centering force. If I park and try to turn the wheel in any of the available vehicles, I cannot turn it all the way without fear of breaking my V2 Base. And when I let go, it snaps back to center with wrist-crunching force. My friends' TX wheel does not do this; the wheel will stay to the side, as it should.
Does anyone know if these were fixed in either one of the last two firmware updates? Thanks.
I have this issue too but mostly with FM5 and Horizon 2, the wheel whips and springs back n forth...like you are fighting the wheel constantly. Making it hard to drive RWD cars and making it overall very hard to drive smooth, I can't even imagine trying to drift. I miss my CSR Elite compared to all this crap and hoops I'm jumping through with this V2/Hub set up. Mind you its the loudest thing in the world, any time you drift or go offroad the entire thing clunks and shakes like its about to shake the screws loose and fall apart.
I'm having an issue with my V2 Base and Xbox One Hub.
The RSB and LSB still output as RB and LB, rendering them useless. Also, in the Forza 6 Demo, there is a very, very strong wheel centering force. If I park and try to turn the wheel in any of the available vehicles, I cannot turn it all the way without fear of breaking my V2 Base. And when I let go, it snaps back to center with wrist-crunching force. My friends' TX wheel does not do this; the wheel will stay to the side, as it should.
Does anyone know if these were fixed in either one of the last two firmware updates? Thanks.
I have this issue too but mostly with FM5 and Horizon 2, the wheel whips and springs back n forth...like you are fighting the wheel constantly. Making it hard to drive RWD cars and making it overall very hard to drive smooth, I can't even imagine trying to drift. I miss my CSR Elite compared to all this crap and hoops I'm jumping through with this V2/Hub set up. Mind you its the loudest thing in the world, any time you drift or go offroad the entire thing clunks and shakes like its about to shake the screws loose and fall apart.
The rumble feature is far too strong on Forza. I turned that down to 15 or so in FM5. That should fix one of your problems.
ACL feature is not cheating, nor has it been removed, it's never been on the Clubsport wheel, it was a setting for Xbox 360 wheels for Forza.
People are always referring to realism for driving games, to get as close to their own car or past experience for example. In real life, a road car with paddle shifters is always faster than a manual car with clutch, no loss of acceleration and seamless shifts = faster.
In Forza, there are 3 choices for you to choose, auto, manual and manual with clutch. Auto is slow, manual is faster and manual with clutch is the fastest. So, in Forza, if you want to drive a paddle shift/sequential shift car using a clutch pedal, then that's up to you, but I would rather use the paddles with no clutch pedal. But by choosing this method I am at a disadvantage, fair ?, no.
ACL was added when the CSR Elite came out and was then added to the CSR later. It is also an option on the Thrustmaster TX (official Forza wheel), and it is only used in Forza as far as I am aware. I don't like being called a cheat when I'm doing nothing wrong, I don't cut corners, and I like to drive a car with the paddles, so why should I be punished, or called a cheat.
I modified my V1 pedals to get a better brake pedal, I took the sensor off of the clutch so I could put a big plate over the brake and clutch pedals for more pressure/resistance, it works great for me, but in Forza, without ACL, it makes me slower, I could use a button for the clutch, but that is a pain in the ass. If ACL does not return, I will modify my hub, there is a spare terminal on the shifter micro switch, so no big deal.
Just getting my point across for all you realism drivers out there
What makes it a cheat is the fact that given the same settings on a controller you have to use the clutch button to do the shift. The ACL feature doesn't remove the need to send the "clutch button was depressed and released" signal. The ACL feature presses that "button" for you with programmed precision. Thus, you get the fastest shift time possible in the game without having to do the work the game requires for such a shift time. Therefore, any time you post to a leaderboard with ACL, or any multiplayer race you participate in with ACL, you are cheating.
**** it, I'm cool with cheating then if it gets me the most realistic feel which is the reason of purchasing this wheel. How about we complain about how easy it is for controller gamers bash and spin you out easier then steering wheel racers and how hard it is to regain control compared to joystick players. Not fair it takes me fighting a steering wheel compared to flicking a knob back n forth a few times.
It's all just not comparable, using a clutch on a controller will always be faster then pushing it down with your foot and shifting, this is also another reason I am sure it was available.
Please bring back ACL
Luke - I have it turned down now and it's ok but yeah it is crazy the amount of force it had originally.
ACL feature is not cheating, nor has it been removed, it's never been on the Clubsport wheel, it was a setting for Xbox 360 wheels for Forza.
People are always referring to realism for driving games, to get as close to their own car or past experience for example. In real life, a road car with paddle shifters is always faster than a manual car with clutch, no loss of acceleration and seamless shifts = faster.
In Forza, there are 3 choices for you to choose, auto, manual and manual with clutch. Auto is slow, manual is faster and manual with clutch is the fastest. So, in Forza, if you want to drive a paddle shift/sequential shift car using a clutch pedal, then that's up to you, but I would rather use the paddles with no clutch pedal. But by choosing this method I am at a disadvantage, fair ?, no.
ACL was added when the CSR Elite came out and was then added to the CSR later. It is also an option on the Thrustmaster TX (official Forza wheel), and it is only used in Forza as far as I am aware. I don't like being called a cheat when I'm doing nothing wrong, I don't cut corners, and I like to drive a car with the paddles, so why should I be punished, or called a cheat.
I modified my V1 pedals to get a better brake pedal, I took the sensor off of the clutch so I could put a big plate over the brake and clutch pedals for more pressure/resistance, it works great for me, but in Forza, without ACL, it makes me slower, I could use a button for the clutch, but that is a pain in the ass. If ACL does not return, I will modify my hub, there is a spare terminal on the shifter micro switch, so no big deal.
Just getting my point across for all you realism drivers out there
What makes it a cheat is the fact that given the same settings on a controller you have to use the clutch button to do the shift. The ACL feature doesn't remove the need to send the "clutch button was depressed and released" signal. The ACL feature presses that "button" for you with programmed precision. Thus, you get the fastest shift time possible in the game without having to do the work the game requires for such a shift time. Therefore, any time you post to a leaderboard with ACL, or any multiplayer race you participate in with ACL, you are cheating.
So, in your opinion, is using the ABS rumble, or changing pedal deadzones or travel length, or changing wheel DOR, or even reducing FFB so you can react quicker cheating ?
If it's an option in the game, then it should be available to everyone. It's only Forza we're talking about here. Why should anyone that uses a clutch pedal in a car with paddle shifters be quicker than someone using the paddle shifters, which should be the fastest option.
I'm having an issue with my V2 Base and Xbox One Hub.
The RSB and LSB still output as RB and LB, rendering them useless. Also, in the Forza 6 Demo, there is a very, very strong wheel centering force. If I park and try to turn the wheel in any of the available vehicles, I cannot turn it all the way without fear of breaking my V2 Base. And when I let go, it snaps back to center with wrist-crunching force. My friends' TX wheel does not do this; the wheel will stay to the side, as it should.
Does anyone know if these were fixed in either one of the last two firmware updates? Thanks.
I have this issue too but mostly with FM5 and Horizon 2, the wheel whips and springs back n forth...like you are fighting the wheel constantly. Making it hard to drive RWD cars and making it overall very hard to drive smooth, I can't even imagine trying to drift. I miss my CSR Elite compared to all this crap and hoops I'm jumping through with this V2/Hub set up. Mind you its the loudest thing in the world, any time you drift or go offroad the entire thing clunks and shakes like its about to shake the screws loose and fall apart.
The rumble feature is far too strong on Forza. I turned that down to 15 or so in FM5. That should fix one of your problems.
I found changing the force feedback on the wheel settings to 'Auto' and then adjusting it in the game menus solved the 'wheel fight' issue for me on FH2 and Forza 5. However I'm finding the force feedback in the Forza 6 demo to be very light, in F1 2015 you can change the wheel weight and feedback individually and really dial it in your preference, wrist snappingly strong if you wish!
I'd done that in PCars too andinn game ffb and tire force at 100. Gives me more feel than I've ever had with XOne. BUT that option is only possible in XOne mode!!! Not in PS4/pc mode. Did not test PS3 mode yet. Gonna try the auto function in FM5 and 6 too with vib and ffb scale at 100 tonight too.
However I'm finding the force feedback in the Forza 6 demo to be very light, in F1 2015 you can change the wheel weight and feedback individually and really dial it in your preference, wrist snappingly strong if you wish!
I use this Wheel-Settings in the Forza 6 Demo and it feels much better...
V2 Base Settings:
SEN = 690° / FF = 040 / SHO = 040 / ABS = 090 / LIN = OFF / DEA = 020 / DRI = 001
ACL feature is not cheating, nor has it been removed, it's never been on the Clubsport wheel, it was a setting for Xbox 360 wheels for Forza.
People are always referring to realism for driving games, to get as close to their own car or past experience for example. In real life, a road car with paddle shifters is always faster than a manual car with clutch, no loss of acceleration and seamless shifts = faster.
In Forza, there are 3 choices for you to choose, auto, manual and manual with clutch. Auto is slow, manual is faster and manual with clutch is the fastest. So, in Forza, if you want to drive a paddle shift/sequential shift car using a clutch pedal, then that's up to you, but I would rather use the paddles with no clutch pedal. But by choosing this method I am at a disadvantage, fair ?, no.
ACL was added when the CSR Elite came out and was then added to the CSR later. It is also an option on the Thrustmaster TX (official Forza wheel), and it is only used in Forza as far as I am aware. I don't like being called a cheat when I'm doing nothing wrong, I don't cut corners, and I like to drive a car with the paddles, so why should I be punished, or called a cheat.
I modified my V1 pedals to get a better brake pedal, I took the sensor off of the clutch so I could put a big plate over the brake and clutch pedals for more pressure/resistance, it works great for me, but in Forza, without ACL, it makes me slower, I could use a button for the clutch, but that is a pain in the ass. If ACL does not return, I will modify my hub, there is a spare terminal on the shifter micro switch, so no big deal.
Just getting my point across for all you realism drivers out there
What makes it a cheat is the fact that given the same settings on a controller you have to use the clutch button to do the shift. The ACL feature doesn't remove the need to send the "clutch button was depressed and released" signal. The ACL feature presses that "button" for you with programmed precision. Thus, you get the fastest shift time possible in the game without having to do the work the game requires for such a shift time. Therefore, any time you post to a leaderboard with ACL, or any multiplayer race you participate in with ACL, you are cheating.
So, in your opinion, is using the ABS rumble, or changing pedal deadzones or travel length, or changing wheel DOR, or even reducing FFB so you can react quicker cheating ?
If it's an option in the game, then it should be available to everyone. It's only Forza we're talking about here. Why should anyone that uses a clutch pedal in a car with paddle shifters be quicker than someone using the paddle shifters, which should be the fastest option.
Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside = 5 and Outside = 40
Now you needtotouchtheclutchonlyandcanswitchmuchfaster.
I drive WITH clutch in Rio with the Ford GT a 01:33,665 and could do a 01:32,xxx
Those gears grinding is only telling me that clutch isn't enganged enough...Try setting dead zones back and do normal shifting...with clutch held down long enough and change gear...no more grinding!!!
ACL feature is not cheating, nor has it been removed, it's never been on the Clubsport wheel, it was a setting for Xbox 360 wheels for Forza.
People are always referring to realism for driving games, to get as close to their own car or past experience for example. In real life, a road car with paddle shifters is always faster than a manual car with clutch, no loss of acceleration and seamless shifts = faster.
In Forza, there are 3 choices for you to choose, auto, manual and manual with clutch. Auto is slow, manual is faster and manual with clutch is the fastest. So, in Forza, if you want to drive a paddle shift/sequential shift car using a clutch pedal, then that's up to you, but I would rather use the paddles with no clutch pedal. But by choosing this method I am at a disadvantage, fair ?, no.
ACL was added when the CSR Elite came out and was then added to the CSR later. It is also an option on the Thrustmaster TX (official Forza wheel), and it is only used in Forza as far as I am aware. I don't like being called a cheat when I'm doing nothing wrong, I don't cut corners, and I like to drive a car with the paddles, so why should I be punished, or called a cheat.
I modified my V1 pedals to get a better brake pedal, I took the sensor off of the clutch so I could put a big plate over the brake and clutch pedals for more pressure/resistance, it works great for me, but in Forza, without ACL, it makes me slower, I could use a button for the clutch, but that is a pain in the ass. If ACL does not return, I will modify my hub, there is a spare terminal on the shifter micro switch, so no big deal.
Just getting my point across for all you realism drivers out there
What makes it a cheat is the fact that given the same settings on a controller you have to use the clutch button to do the shift. The ACL feature doesn't remove the need to send the "clutch button was depressed and released" signal. The ACL feature presses that "button" for you with programmed precision. Thus, you get the fastest shift time possible in the game without having to do the work the game requires for such a shift time. Therefore, any time you post to a leaderboard with ACL, or any multiplayer race you participate in with ACL, you are cheating.
So, in your opinion, is using the ABS rumble, or changing pedal deadzones or travel length, or changing wheel DOR, or even reducing FFB so you can react quicker cheating ?
If it's an option in the game, then it should be available to everyone. It's only Forza we're talking about here. Why should anyone that uses a clutch pedal in a car with paddle shifters be quicker than someone using the paddle shifters, which should be the fastest option.
Pretty much every single one of those settings is available in-game for all players regardless of their chosen input method. In fact, my argument is exactly "If it's an option in the game, then it should be available to everyone." The ACL feature on a wheel completely changes an in-game option and mechanic.
I use paddles for shifting, at least I do when I have a wheel (tomorrow! finally!). I tried out ACL in FM4 with my CSR-E some years ago and immediately recognized the large advantage it gives over just using the full manual game option -- and I immediately decided not to use it. For good or ill, Forza has three shifting models that have a built-in advantages and disadvantages. The result of which is that to use paddle shifting you should be using the middle tier model -- manual without clutch. The game is going to reduce the possible shift time because of that, but it's the only way to do it without actually cheating with an ACL feature.
Those gears grinding is only telling me that clutch isn't enganged enough...Try setting dead zones back and do normal shifting...with clutch held down long enough and change gear...no more grinding!!!
Iftheclutchhasappearednotlongenough,you canhearadifferentnoiseinForzaandtheshiftingtakesmuchlonger.Alsothespeeddropsslightly. IthinkIamontheborderofwhatisrecognizedas a "normal"gear change.Itappearsalsonodamageinthetelemetry.
I updated my firmware to the latest version. I now have light feedback with it set to auto. It is much, much better at all settings. However, LSB and RSB are still useless.
And now I have a new issue. If I reboot my wheel, it no longer goes into Xbox One mode. It gives me a full red circle around the start button, showing it is in PC mode. But it's not in PC mode, it is not recognized, and no inputs do anything. I can't even bring up the settings menus, or even turn it off. I have to unplug the power supply for 30 seconds for it to return to functioning normally. Help?
Comments
I was thinking of adding rubber door stoppers, under the part of the connecting rods (the part that hangs over the front of the CSL by 2 or 3") would do the job. As I could flip them up and down as required (if that makes sense)
If you decide and find a working solution, don't forget to let me know
That's a lot of engineering and work right there... :-0 I was thinking of a more "off the shelf" solution
However that's some impressive work right there
Nope..there I use the auto clutch function OFF/ON via my USB keyboard....they weren't that stupid to implement the penalty...
Natalie...in stead of buying more and more Fanatec gear...first invest in a RSeat RS1....once put together...DREAMMMMM of being in a real race car...lol
The CSL is a great rig though
Its comfy, light weight, portable, sleek design looks fantastic, even in a modern living room
It's sturdy as hell and I already own it as I bought it when I ordered my V2 Base
That's very true, I do want to build Rig 2.0...
I have a set of modified V2 pedals that are hardly used (as my V3 arrived only a few months after my V2), loads of rims, I just need a V2 Base and a rig.
The CSL is good value, and I'm hoping that the CSL 2.0 (as they are currently out of stock so I'm just speculating here) will hopefully have some improvements that I mentioned along the way.
Tilting Seat (back/head/angle)
Quick release locks for adjusting angle of wheel/pedals/seat etc (instead of screws)
A location for the CSHB as its not current,y compatible (although I was able to get it on there with a little jiggery pokery)
More locations for mounting the CSS-SQ
Etc
With those mods this rig would have almost no downside!
How much is the RS1?
I'm having an issue with my V2 Base and Xbox One Hub.
The RSB and LSB still output as RB and LB, rendering them useless. Also, in the Forza 6 Demo, there is a very, very strong wheel centering force. If I park and try to turn the wheel in any of the available vehicles, I cannot turn it all the way without fear of breaking my V2 Base. And when I let go, it snaps back to center with wrist-crunching force. My friends' TX wheel does not do this; the wheel will stay to the side, as it should.
Does anyone know if these were fixed in either one of the last two firmware updates? Thanks.
And if the Fanatec Sparco 2000 II comes/or ever will be available...I'm buying that one to replace the original seat.
If it's an option in the game, then it should be available to everyone. It's only Forza we're talking about here. Why should anyone that uses a clutch pedal in a car with paddle shifters be quicker than someone using the paddle shifters, which should be the fastest option.
Gonna try the auto function in FM5 and 6 too with vib and ffb scale at 100 tonight too.
I use this Wheel-Settings in the Forza 6 Demo and it feels much better...
V2 Base Settings:
SEN = 690° / FF = 040 / SHO = 040 / ABS = 090 / LIN = OFF / DEA = 020 / DRI = 001
InGame Steering Wheel Settings:
Steering Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Steering Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside: 5
Clutch Axis Deadzone Outside: 40
Handbrake Axis Deadzone Inside: 10
Handbrake Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Vibration Scale: 100
Force Feedback Scale: 100
Wheel Rotation: 690° (Varies by car and Preference)
Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside = 5 and Outside = 40
https://youtu.be/tAuONhekFSA
If the clutch has appeared not long enough, you can hear a different noise in Forza and the shifting takes much longer. Also the speed drops slightly. I think I am on the border of what is recognized as a "normal" gear change. It appears also no damage in the telemetry.
I updated my firmware to the latest version. I now have light feedback with it set to auto. It is much, much better at all settings. However, LSB and RSB are still useless.
And now I have a new issue. If I reboot my wheel, it no longer goes into Xbox One mode. It gives me a full red circle around the start button, showing it is in PC mode. But it's not in PC mode, it is not recognized, and no inputs do anything. I can't even bring up the settings menus, or even turn it off. I have to unplug the power supply for 30 seconds for it to return to functioning normally. Help?