Is anyone racing with firmware 226 and if so how is it. I am still using the firmware 205 because when i last updated the firmware to 223 i lost my h pattern shifters ability to shift on gt 3 cars as it would mis shift. so i reinstalled 205 and it works fine. I am wondering whats the experience on version 226?
Are you talking about firmware or driver (I assume driver)? What game(s) are you talking about? I assume that you calibrated the shifter after the firmware upgrade, and that you re-assigned the shifter in-game as well?
Yes i re calibrated everything. After the update when i am driving in any of the gt3 cars if I go to 5th gear it misses the shift and just revs. With Fw 205 I never have this issue and i know its not the shifter because it only does this with the GT cars that are sequential when i am driving with the H Pattern. If i drive with a car that isn't a sequential It drives fine with the new FW but with 205 the shifter works with all cars ,
I have noticed that my base and hub randomly do not fully cycle [or that what I think is happening] first CSV2/V3's/V219/Xbox/FM6....... when I power the base on it will normally cycle on the LED > 94 the - - - randomly it will cycle 94 and stay there or 94 then blank ....
My question is .... does the base not cycling fully to - - - affect the way it interacts with the console ?
It's not a big deal since I just power it off and back on and it is good to go...
So Grimey this is what is happening with your settings plugged in. When I go back to mine it's fine. I like the feel of yours but can't figure out what setting is causing this.
Im Cooking up a New PCars Tweek!!! Its the Best 1 yet!!! Re-working the Global Settings its Silky Smooth in the Wheel Center and using 100% In Game FFB & 100% TF No Clipping!!! Ive allready beaten some of my best laps due to the New Wheel Center Smoothness of the New Settings... Working out the Scoop Knee settings and its done... Stay Tuned. :-B Yup im figuring all the Settings out Slowly but Surely... Hope i Can Figure them all out before PCars 2 is out... LOL
Grimey , the last time I was in a car with someone from New York was 1972.... He was from the Bronx and told me he was going to show me how to drive in Manhattan.. he pulled his '68 Rivera up to the first red light in lower Manhattan ... when it turned green he nailed it and didn't stop until he got to upper Manhattan... that was also the year I considered buying only brown underwear. I still need to work up to online, but I'm getting closer.
So Grimey this is what is happening with your settings plugged in. When I go back to mine it's fine. I like the feel of yours but can't figure out what setting is causing this.
Im Cooking up a New PCars Tweek!!! Its the Best 1 yet!!! Re-working the Global Settings its Silky Smooth in the Wheel Center and using 100% In Game FFB & 100% TF No Clipping!!! Ive allready beaten some of my best laps due to the New Wheel Center Smoothness of the New Settings... Working out the Scoop Knee settings and its done... Stay Tuned. :-B Yup im figuring all the Settings out Slowly but Surely... Hope i Can Figure them all out before PCars 2 is out... LOL
Is it because of the race us three, Toon,You and Me, had ? Working on more understeer feel Grimey ?
Nope... I Have Re-Done My Global Settings because i Turned the Advanced Settings off... That Setting is for Controllers... The Soft Clipp Setting being on in there Makes a Difference with the FFB with the wheel... Thats why i was able to Run FFB at 25 because Soft Clipping Boost Low Signals and Cuts High FFB signal to keep all FFB Signals within a Certain Range.... My New Settings I Feel the Same but better because i use the same in Car FFB but wheel center is Calmer and FFB is More Balaced while still very powerful... Once i finish the Scoup Knee Settings its done.
Edit: The auto FFB Means Nothing without Good Global and in Car FFB settings.
I have a drama with updating the V2 firmware. Currently running 094.
As soon as I update to newer firmware my wheel starts up full red ring fans running and stays in that state and not able to use. No tuning menu cant calibrate, have to turn off at powerpoint as power button doesnt function.
Once power is off then I can hold powerbutton to put into bootloader mode and downgrade back to old firmware and wheel functions fine.
If I downgrade the firmware the wheel functions with no issues. starts up into xbone mode can change to pc mode etc all good.
Greg, V226 is still Beta V219/94 was debugged long ago.... I'm not an expert on this but I think everything after V219 was to accommodate windows 10 ..... but as my Dad used to say .. "if it ain't broke , why fix it" So my question is if V219 is working fine for you , why switch? That said , if you really wan to switch , GrimeyDog or Antoine are your best bet... you might try messaging them directly on their profile page ...click on their name in any thread... and then click message on their profile page... sorry I couldn't be of more help
Oh and FYI there really is no need to hold the start button to get to boot loader mode ... just open the controller window and let the update button do it for you ..
The weird thing is My wheel works fine after testing if I use the Standard universal hub. It is only when I connect the Xbox one universal hub that the issues arise.
And with the bootloader I have to do it that way when the xbox hub is attached as the wheel is not recognised because I cant switch it to pc mode etc.
let me ask a question just so I can learn for future reference, sort of your pain maybe someone else's gain.... did you install the new driver/firmware package with the universal hub on? is so is it possible that the Xbox hub still has FW94 attributes and that is in conflict with the base? 094 has been performing just fine with Forza .... again Grimey and Antoine can get you set for PCars if that is your aim in any case enjoy the racing
OH I figured out why you were going to the bootloader mode manually ... but I am in the middle of a 30 lap night race so this is a pit stop..
No mate installed the firmware hub off of the base.
I am all set for Pcars etc have been for over 3 years. Was a tester etc.
If I install the latest driver and firmware 116, I can attach my Standard universal hub and all is good. But when I attach my Xbox One universal hub it all goes pear shaped.
If I downgrade the driver and firmware, both universal hubs work fine. So it seems like something with the Xbox hub is having an issue.
Hey Grimey yeah mate right version etc, have never had issues in the past, just seems to be come conflict with my Xbox hub, where my standard hub is fine.
When you update from driver V219 to higher version you need to have the hub attached!!! I think it's because the button layout changed from V222 and higher, because of better use with pc and PS4. It's only necessary when updating out of the box from driver 205 to 219!! So Greg, best to delete the old driver on pc, install V226, leave EVERYTHING hooked up to the base, connect the Base with your pc, auto update the base. Once the base restarted, calibrate centre and your good to go!!
When you update from driver V219 to higher version you need to have the hub attached!!! I think it's because the button layout changed from V222 and higher, because of better use with pc and PS4. It's only necessary when updating out of the box from driver 205 to 219!! So Greg, best to delete the old driver on pc, install V226, leave EVERYTHING hooked up to the base, connect the Base with your pc, auto update the base. Once the base restarted, calibrate centre and your good to go!!
Hey mate I have tried this way too and still the same issue, Standard works fine, Xbox hub does not.
Nope... I Have Re-Done My Global Settings because i Turned the Advanced Settings off... That Setting is for Controllers... The Soft Clipp Setting being on in there Makes a Difference with the FFB with the wheel... Thats why i was able to Run FFB at 25 because Soft Clipping Boost Low Signals and Cuts High FFB signal to keep all FFB Signals within a Certain Range.... My New Settings I Feel the Same but better because i use the same in Car FFB but wheel center is Calmer and FFB is More Balaced while still very powerful... Once i finish the Scoup Knee Settings its done.
Edit: The auto FFB Means Nothing without Good Global and in Car FFB settings.
I haveno clue why that is the case ... try messaging Remco Van Dijk .... he is a Beta tester for Fanatec...
Remco has advised us he is beta tester for PC only. He has no consoles.
I am having the same issue as Greg.
V2 base, Xbox Universal hub, V3 pedals, Windows 10-64 bit
I hook up pedals to PC, run the firmware set-up. All is OK
I hook up the base, no hub, to the PC, run the firmware set-up, base is recognized, go to properties, with no hub attached there is really nothing I can do, other than confirm the pedals and firmware version.
I power off the base, attach the Xbox hub, run the firmware set-up to check the wheel/hub, but no base is detected with the hub attached, and I can't power off the base other than at the source.
I remove the hub.
I run the firmware set-up again, base is detected. I attache the hub while the base is still powered on. Immediately the base is no longer detected.
The strange thing is, the little white led on top of the hub just in front and to the right of the LED display flashes for a split second and goes off. Also, the 3 red LED displays glow VERY faintly, but do not illuminate.
This happens with both 219 and 226.
I have deleted all Fanatec fw, downloaded the latest versions, repeated as of this morning. All 64 bit.
Whenever the hub is attached, the base is not recognized.
I'm pretty sure my hub is a brick.
Man, this really sux. But hey, it all looks very nice.
@ Greg and Trevor ... would you come back and post the outcome when it gets resolved please? It may help the rest of us amateur supporters help someone else a bit quicker.
At this point I'm thinking it is an issue with the hub connection to the base , bent pin, loose wire .... let us know thanks and really hope it get resolved quickly for both of you..
Trevor, could you try one more thing. Delete the driver again from pc. Download and install driver 205 again. And update/downgrade the base without hub, with pedals. Then delete the 205 and download and install the 219 again without hub and with pedals. Re-update the base again, power off the base, attach the hub and power base on. If the base starts up in XOne mode and you need to calibrate centre...DO SO. Power off the base again. Delete 219 again and download and install 226. Now update the base WITH the hub and pedals attached. Maybe a totally clean start works...I think something messes up when found from driver version 219 to 222,223 or 226
Thanks for your support, Joe. And Antoine, too. You have helped us with many suggestions/trouble shooting. I checked the pins and all looks OK, the hub seats properly with no loose play. I reported in to Support a few moments ago. Hope to hear back Monday and get an RMA in the works. And, yes indeed I will report back with the goings on and any progress throughout. Now, where did I put those shipping boxes?
I haveno clue why that is the case ... try messaging Remco Van Dijk .... he is a Beta tester for Fanatec...
Remco has advised us he is beta tester for PC only. He has no consoles.
I am having the same issue as Greg.
V2 base, Xbox Universal hub, V3 pedals, Windows 10-64 bit
I hook up pedals to PC, run the firmware set-up. All is OK
I hook up the base, no hub, to the PC, run the firmware set-up, base is recognized, go to properties, with no hub attached there is really nothing I can do, other than confirm the pedals and firmware version.
I power off the base, attach the Xbox hub, run the firmware set-up to check the wheel/hub, but no base is detected with the hub attached, and I can't power off the base other than at the source.
I remove the hub.
I run the firmware set-up again, base is detected. I attache the hub while the base is still powered on. Immediately the base is no longer detected.
The strange thing is, the little white led on top of the hub just in front and to the right of the LED display flashes for a split second and goes off. Also, the 3 red LED displays glow VERY faintly, but do not illuminate.
This happens with both 219 and 226.
I have deleted all Fanatec fw, downloaded the latest versions, repeated as of this morning. All 64 bit.
Whenever the hub is attached, the base is not recognized.
I'm pretty sure my hub is a brick.
Man, this really sux. But hey, it all looks very nice.
Time to contact Support. Again.
Hey Trevor,
Your workflow is correct in getting it setup. Did you try on a Windows 7/8.1 OS? I was having a similar issue with my friends PC who has windows 10 and when I tried on Windows 8.1 it worked flawlessly.
I would also try running v223 on the second page of this thread.
Well, in spite of all that, still a no go. The only thing I could not try was going back to Windows 7 or 8.1. Both my laptop and PC are windows 10 now.
In all cases, with all firmware versions...205,219,223,226...the base was recognized without the Xbox hub attached. Once the hub was attached, all FW's reacted as did 219 and 226 that I described above. I even tried a different computer, with W10 installed. Same results.
For what it is worth, the hub/base worked a month ago. The CSR-E pedals I have gave up the ghost, so I had to order a new main board (the second since February). It was late arriving, came after the V3 pedals. So I installed the V3 pedals, ran the 226 firmware update into them before connecting to the base, then connected the pedals to my rig. I did not have a chance to try all the kit until yesterday. That is when all these issues with the hub surfaced. I even disconnected the V3 pedals. I replaced the main board on my CSR-E pedals (it arrived Thursday) and connected the CSR-E pedals. Same issue with the hub.
Thanks again everyone for your efforts. You are all amazing.
I think now I'll just have to wait on Support to take over and sort this for me.
Comments
I have noticed that my base and hub randomly do not fully cycle [or that what I think is happening] first CSV2/V3's/V219/Xbox/FM6....... when I power the base on it will normally cycle on the LED > 94 the - - - randomly it will cycle 94 and stay there or 94 then blank ....
My question is .... does the base not cycling fully to - - - affect the way it interacts with the console ?
It's not a big deal since I just power it off and back on and it is good to go...
Yup im figuring all the Settings out Slowly but Surely... Hope i Can Figure them all out before PCars 2 is out... LOL
Edit: The auto FFB Means Nothing without Good Global and in Car FFB settings.
V2 wheelbase, Xbone universal adapter v2 pedals.
I have a drama with updating the V2 firmware. Currently running 094.
As soon as I update to newer firmware my wheel starts up full red ring fans running and stays in that state and not able to use. No tuning menu cant calibrate, have to turn off at powerpoint as power button doesnt function.
Once power is off then I can hold powerbutton to put into bootloader mode and downgrade back to old firmware and wheel functions fine.
If I downgrade the firmware the wheel functions with no issues. starts up into xbone mode can change to pc mode etc all good.
Greg, V226 is still Beta V219/94 was debugged long ago.... I'm not an expert on this but I think everything after V219 was to accommodate windows 10 ..... but as my Dad used to say .. "if it ain't broke , why fix it" So my question is if V219 is working fine for you , why switch? That said , if you really wan to switch , GrimeyDog or Antoine are your best bet... you might try messaging them directly on their profile page ...click on their name in any thread... and then click message on their profile page... sorry I couldn't be of more help
Oh and FYI there really is no need to hold the start button to get to boot loader mode ... just open the controller window and let the update button do it for you ..
And with the bootloader I have to do it that way when the xbox hub is attached as the wheel is not recognised because I cant switch it to pc mode etc.
Cheers for your reply will just stay with 094.
let me ask a question just so I can learn for future reference, sort of your pain maybe someone else's gain.... did you install the new driver/firmware package with the universal hub on? is so is it possible that the Xbox hub still has FW94 attributes and that is in conflict with the base? 094 has been performing just fine with Forza .... again Grimey and Antoine can get you set for PCars if that is your aim in any case enjoy the racing
OH I figured out why you were going to the bootloader mode manually ... but I am in the middle of a 30 lap night race so this is a pit stop..
I am all set for Pcars etc have been for over 3 years. Was a tester etc.
If I install the latest driver and firmware 116, I can attach my Standard universal hub and all is good. But when I attach my Xbox One universal hub it all goes pear shaped.
If I downgrade the driver and firmware, both universal hubs work fine. So it seems like something with the Xbox hub is having an issue.
Weird one.
It's only necessary when updating out of the box from driver 205 to 219!!
So Greg, best to delete the old driver on pc, install V226, leave EVERYTHING hooked up to the base, connect the Base with your pc, auto update the base. Once the base restarted, calibrate centre and your good to go!!
Too hard basket.
@ Greg and Trevor ... would you come back and post the outcome when it gets resolved please? It may help the rest of us amateur supporters help someone else a bit quicker.
At this point I'm thinking it is an issue with the hub connection to the base , bent pin, loose wire .... let us know thanks and really hope it get resolved quickly for both of you..
Delete the driver again from pc. Download and install driver 205 again. And update/downgrade the base without hub, with pedals. Then delete the 205 and download and install the 219 again without hub and with pedals. Re-update the base again, power off the base, attach the hub and power base on. If the base starts up in XOne mode and you need to calibrate centre...DO SO. Power off the base again. Delete 219 again and download and install 226. Now update the base WITH the hub and pedals attached.
Maybe a totally clean start works...I think something messes up when found from driver version 219 to 222,223 or 226