If you accept it from game designers....why do you feel Fanatec is responsible for cheating on the game designers choice ? Buy yourself a CSSQ 1.5 If you don't have one and use the clutch to get those lap times. I used the A button too for clutch...but the feeling that I have now with full set up can't be beaten by driving with the controller in a million years!! AND T10 claims since FM1 that nothing else brings you closer to real life....well...where's the real life in shifting with a P1 and be penalized????
Hello to everyone, not sure if you can help me with my slight predicament?
I've recently joined the sim racing world and managed to bag myself a fanatec rig based on the CSW V2 and am currently playing Project Cars on the PS4. however i appear to be having problems with the steering input/ratio. whatever the car i drive my input via the wheel is not replicated in game, i.e. its almost as though i am steering a bus; with routine corners i am almost having to input opposite lock into the wheel. in addition, corners such as ear rouge (spa) are almost impossible for me (especially with GT3 cars). wheel has been calibrated in-game and and wheel Dor is set at 900/auto. changing steering ratio per-car in-game makes no difference either. all in all quite frustrating as i have a set up that i currently cannot utilise. any help/suggestions would be great.
I received my CSW V2 hub a couple of months ago. It's been sitting awaiting an XBox One hub since...
My XBox One hub finally arrived last week (whilst I was on holiday) ... so last night was my first opportunity to put it together (whilst watching qualifying at Spa :-) ).
Attach Momo wheel rim to hub. Check.
Attach CSW base to my race seat. Check.
Connect to PC. Check.
The instructions say the firmware must be updated before first use. They're unclear as to whether this must be done with or without hub attached. I first tried without. Although the base appeared to start up (i.e. it went through a couple of spins to calibrate centre), my PC would not recognise it.
I tried removing the Fanatec driver (v219, 64 bit) and re-installing whilst the base was switched on ... still no joy.
I then repeated this with the hub attached to the base. Still no joy. In fact I'm worse off as the wheel now appears to be going through its initialisation phase in an infinite loop - the wheel spins one way, then the other, then centres ... then repeats. It seems power gets cycled once the wheel has centred ... which simply restarts the entire process. At no point does the PC recognise the wheel so I have no opportunity to update its firmware (why doesn't it come with some version of the firmware anyway?!).
I tried the above using two different PC's, both running 64 bit Windows 7. The results were the same.
I also tried starting the base/hub combo whilst attached to my XBox One. The results were the same.
If you'd read through the XOne hub topic, you'd be playing right now. Update your base without the hub with driver version 223, found on page 2 posted by Armin Habermann. After the restart of the base, turn it off, attach the hub, turn it back on and calibrate the wheel according to the FULL manual, found at product page tab downloads. Your baselight should be lit up green...XOne mode. Press, also according manual, the double squares + Y button to set the base in PC mode. Start up the Fanatec function test window and you'll see the base will work now.
So is anyone having this issue when loading PCars on Xbox or other platform? I plug wheel in, power up xbox, power up wheel, load PCars. Once in game my acceleration/brake only goes to 50%. I have to power off the wheel, restart it and then I regain 100%. I've tried Powering on wheel, then Xbox and Pcars. Still the same issue. What is your wheel start up process?
I also seem to lose my default setups for Car and FFB until I start a session, exit and restart it.
Please keep in mind that you first uninstal previous driver ...then connect your wheelbase to your pc with usb...then power on your wheelbase ...then make sure it is in pc-mode...then install latest driver...
The key seems to be to not have *anything* connected to the base ... pedals included.
Disconnect them, re-install driver, base talks to PC :-)
One quick go of Forza 5 and I can confirm the base/wheel works.
Tonight ... Project Cars (on PC).
BTW if you crash a lot ( ) and therefore cause a lot of rumble I've found the right-angled USB connector can easily become dislodged (and thus the controller disconnected) ... some form of support may be required ;-)
Anyone know how I can cancel a support ticket? Can't find anything in "My account"...
@Gavin, contact Support through their email link. Quote your support ticket number, and ask them to cancel it. They should have sent you an email confirmation with the number.
Just a small note to say thanks to everyone in the thread! I have updated to Windows 10, used the 223 driver and my newly arrived Xbox One Universal Hub seems to be working fine on PC and Xbox One so far, I will test with PS4 shortly!
The other thing is to echo the request for the ACL option as per other Fanatec Wheels, this is for Auto-Clutch in games like Forza. I was quite surprised when Thrustmaster added this option to their TX Wheel sometime after release, and immediately improved all my leaderboard times.
For anyone that doesn't know, in Forza, if you select Manual + Clutch as the gear shift option, then they allow you to use Button A as a 'digital' clutch and this makes for the fastest gearchange times. If you use the analog clutch ,or you just use 'manual' shift options, you get a significant penalty in terms of time.
This meant everyone high up the leaderboard uses the Button A Clutch method as it gains hundreds of milliseconds a lap, and the good thing with the 'ACL' wheel option was to just save you pressing A yourself which wears the button out and honestly requires no skill anyway..
I've been very impressed with support and commitment to development so far, so I hope this is considered at some point.
Frankly, I'm happy to hear the ACL feature was excluded from this wheel -- it's a cheat feature. It does take skill to use whatever is bound to "clutch", be that the 'A' button or a physical pedal. By having the wheel do it for you, well, you are just cheating.
So hab die neue Firmware 110 auf der wheel Base v2 mit meinem xone hub und den csp v3,das Lüfterquietschen ist jetzt zum Glück weg,aber dafür hab ich auf der Bremse keine Abs Vibration mehr,wie kann ich das beheben?
In diesem Forum wird in der Hauptsache Englisch gesprochen, dann erhälst Du auch schneller Antworten.
In welchem Xbox One Spiel hattest Du denn vorher Unterstützung für die Vibration am Bremspedal? Forza 5 unterstützt es meines Wissens nicht und auch in Project Cars hatte ich keine Vibration am Bremspedal.
Moin Oliver ich hatte bei Forza 5,Horizon 2 und Project Cars die Vibration.Konnte es im Tuningmenü der Base einstellen wie früh die Vibration einsetzt,nun tut sich nix mehr.
Kurios...ich hatte weder in Forza 5, noch in Project Cars Vibration am Bremspedal. Weder mit der alten Firmware, noch mit der Neuen (Beta). Mag aber vielleicht daran liegen das ich noch die CSR Elite Pedalerie verwende. Du scheinst ja schon die neuen Clubsport V3 Pedale zu haben. Unter Forza 4 mit dem CSR Lenkrad hatte es bei mir ebenfalls noch funktioniert aber mit meiner jetzigen V2 Wheelbase konnte ich dererlei Funktion wie gesagt bisher noch überhaupt nicht feststellen. Liegt ja im Grunde am Entwickler des Spiels ob er diese Funktion unterstützt und weniger an Fanatec selber.
Ich konnte daher an Fehlern innerhalb der Beta bisher nur feststellen das in Forza 5 beim Start nicht der 1. Gang eingelegt ist, was aber hier schon einige bemerkt haben. Kann dir also nicht wirklich weiterhelfen, außer dir zu empfehlen die alte Firmware wieder aufzuspielen. Beta ist halt Beta, da kann immer etwas im Argen liegen.
Also mir kam es so vor als ob das Spiel nicht das Signal gegeben hat für die Vibration,sondern eher der xone Hub,da ist in dem Tuningmenü die letzte option brf einstellen und beim niedrigsten Wert 30 hat es halt bei wenig Druck vebriert und bei 100 halt mit mehr Druck oder Weg,wie man es nennen will. Aber wenn ich die alte Firmware drauf Spiele,quietscht mein Lüfter wieder und das Nervt noch mehr. Das mit den Gängen,beim Start des Rennens hab ich auch.
hi i updated to 226 but after that FanaLEDs doesn't work anymore (newest version) Did someone know anything about that? hape
Thx for this information Hans-Peter. But without any additional information there is not much that can be done. Which OS (bit?) was used? Which firmware was used? Which version of Fanaleds was used?
Hi I see in the downloads on Fanatec EU that there is driver 226 for CSWB v2 PC...But can't find any change log, I'm still with driver 222 and FW 110 with windows 10...Shall I update to driver 226? And the change log for 226?
the changelog was forgotten first but at the time you wrote this post the driver files have been already only with changelog since ~2 hours. Please check it if you are interrested. In general it is always recommended to use the latest driver and firmware. But you won't be forced to use a beta version. I do not expect any risk right now using them and if there are bugs...please report it here including product, driver and FW version. It will be continously worked on it to output the next final driver. Without any specific problem report to those driver and FW we'll eventually will convert this driver into a final version.
Die Motoren können nur vibrieren wenn das Spiel die Signale schickt. Außer ihr verwendet ABS im Tuning menu. Dann gehts auch mit dieser Einstellung, allerdings nur statisch und abhängig vom Bremssignal und nicht dynamisch vom Spiel.
@ ALL
Fanaleds ist NOT working with the latest driver and firmware. All developers are aware of the problem. The Fanaleds guys have been informed about all details. Everybody hopes for a quick solution from their side since the software modification cannot be reverted. It is an absolutely mandatory change in the code to ensure perfect functionality of our devices.
@Armin...on my borrowed Vista Home Basic 32 bit still not able to update the driver V226. Keep getting message: default hex file loading failed !!! Will have to drag down my home pc to my game room again
Nuno, don't you notice, by watching your own vid back...that the back fan isn't spinning!!! I think you've got a hardware problem instead of a firmware prob!!
Thx for this information Hans-Peter. But without any additional information there is not much that can be done. Which OS (bit?) was used? Which firmware was used? Which version of Fanaleds was used?
hi Armin sorry for that you are absolutely right with your comment. I have seen your mail so i think information is no more interesting to solve the problem but here are the details: Win7 64 Bit Driver 226 FW 116 FanaLEDs 2.3d hope it can be fixed soon :-) hape
- No problems with flashing the firmware - Wheel Base works on Xbox One without any problem - In Forza 5, wrong gear at start of the race (neutral) - Project Cars works without any problems
I never had fan noise. Not with the old firmware and not with the new firmware. Played around 100 hours since April 2015.
Anyone having the strange wheel pulling of centre when entering menu and restarting a race back again in PCars ? Had it in V219 and not in V222 and 223, but with 226 it's back!! Also when doing a pit stop, the wheel is turned about 30° to the left and stays that way until manual control...result: car against the wall or abuse strong pull of the wheel. Didn't make any ffb changes and the wheel settings are set as they were. Somehow the V223 Felt much smoother.
Comments
Buy yourself a CSSQ 1.5 If you don't have one and use the clutch to get those lap times.
I used the A button too for clutch...but the feeling that I have now with full set up can't be beaten by driving with the controller in a million years!!
AND T10 claims since FM1 that nothing else brings you closer to real life....well...where's the real life in shifting with a P1 and be penalized????
I received my CSW V2 hub a couple of months ago. It's been sitting awaiting an XBox One hub since...
My XBox One hub finally arrived last week (whilst I was on holiday) ... so last night was my first opportunity to put it together (whilst watching qualifying at Spa :-) ).
Attach Momo wheel rim to hub. Check.
Attach CSW base to my race seat. Check.
Connect to PC. Check.
The instructions say the firmware must be updated before first use. They're unclear as to whether this must be done with or without hub attached. I first tried without. Although the base appeared to start up (i.e. it went through a couple of spins to calibrate centre), my PC would not recognise it.
I tried removing the Fanatec driver (v219, 64 bit) and re-installing whilst the base was switched on ... still no joy.
I then repeated this with the hub attached to the base. Still no joy. In fact I'm worse off as the wheel now appears to be going through its initialisation phase in an infinite loop - the wheel spins one way, then the other, then centres ... then repeats. It seems power gets cycled once the wheel has centred ... which simply restarts the entire process. At no point does the PC recognise the wheel so I have no opportunity to update its firmware (why doesn't it come with some version of the firmware anyway?!).
I tried the above using two different PC's, both running 64 bit Windows 7. The results were the same.
I also tried starting the base/hub combo whilst attached to my XBox One. The results were the same.
A video of the startup shenanigans can be seen here: https://goo.gl/photos/T83xDNDzyCr4epmB8
I've opened a support ticket with Fanatec but wondered if anyone else had seen this / has some ideas?
Update your base without the hub with driver version 223, found on page 2 posted by Armin Habermann.
After the restart of the base, turn it off, attach the hub, turn it back on and calibrate the wheel according to the FULL manual, found at product page tab downloads. Your baselight should be lit up green...XOne mode. Press, also according manual, the double squares + Y button to set the base in PC mode. Start up the Fanatec function test window and you'll see the base will work now.
In diesem Forum wird in der Hauptsache Englisch gesprochen, dann erhälst Du auch schneller Antworten.
In welchem Xbox One Spiel hattest Du denn vorher Unterstützung für die Vibration am Bremspedal? Forza 5 unterstützt es meines Wissens nicht und auch in Project Cars hatte ich keine Vibration am Bremspedal.
Ich konnte daher an Fehlern innerhalb der Beta bisher nur feststellen das in Forza 5 beim Start nicht der 1. Gang eingelegt ist, was aber hier schon einige bemerkt haben. Kann dir also nicht wirklich weiterhelfen, außer dir zu empfehlen die alte Firmware wieder aufzuspielen. Beta ist halt Beta, da kann immer etwas im Argen liegen.
Aber wenn ich die alte Firmware drauf Spiele,quietscht mein Lüfter wieder und das Nervt noch mehr.
Das mit den Gängen,beim Start des Rennens hab ich auch.
i updated to 226 but after that FanaLEDs doesn't work anymore (newest version)
Did someone know anything about that?
hape
I see in the downloads on Fanatec EU that there is driver 226 for CSWB v2 PC...But can't find any change log, I'm still with driver 222 and FW 110 with windows 10...Shall I update to driver 226? And the change log for 226?
Thanks for your time
Swifty
Thanks...
Steve
Keep getting message: default hex file loading failed !!!
Will have to drag down my home pc to my game room again
I think you've got a hardware problem instead of a firmware prob!!
sorry for that you are absolutely right with your comment.
I have seen your mail so i think information is no more interesting to solve the problem but here are the details:
Win7 64 Bit
Driver 226
FW 116
FanaLEDs 2.3d
hope it can be fixed soon :-)
hape
- No problems with flashing the firmware
- Wheel Base works on Xbox One without any problem
- In Forza 5, wrong gear at start of the race (neutral)
- Project Cars works without any problems
I never had fan noise. Not with the old firmware and not with the new firmware. Played around 100 hours since April 2015.
@Armin - Thanks for the info
Anyone having the strange wheel pulling of centre when entering menu and restarting a race back again in PCars ? Had it in V219 and not in V222 and 223, but with 226 it's back!! Also when doing a pit stop, the wheel is turned about 30° to the left and stays that way until manual control...result: car against the wall or abuse strong pull of the wheel.
Didn't make any ffb changes and the wheel settings are set as they were.
Somehow the V223 Felt much smoother.
@ Oliver, I had the same issue in Forza 5 with the beta firmware 222 .... went back to V219 and did what issue not present.