Many thanks for taking the time to upload your setting, they were very helpful.
Wheel settings are so subjective and I doubt any two people would be able to agree 100%. But having given the above settings a good go, I personally found them to be pretty damn good. 🙂
The only things that I have changed are:
Within the Game settings WRC9
Wheel angle Std @ 440
Overall Force, I agree should be somewhere between 115-135,
This settings and the Drift (Wheel Specific setting) are by far the most important to find the sweet spot's for. The Games Stock 100% value is a bit week, to say the least, but if you think about it, this '100% stock setting' is actually only 2/3 (66%) of the total overall available range.
It's probably worth remembering, that this setting effects the 'Overall Force' of all the other FFB related settings, so raising or lowering this one setting boosts or reduces the effect of all the other settings in this section, like SAT, Tyre load etc. Having the ability to alter specific wheel settings on the fly is a real bonus and makes finding the optimal setup very simple. So personally I leave the in game setting to Max (150%) and then reduce the FF wheel setting until I find the optimal value for the car, I am using at the time.
The overall balance of the rest of the settings, in this section, I find pretty damn good, so everything else in the main FFB section I leave at Stock.
In the sub section dealing with vibration settings, I again leave most thing's Stock (100%) as they generally have little to no effect on the overall driving experience.........
EXCEPT for suspension and ground surface, which are very overpowered at stock values and seriously effect the steering fidelity as a whole, if reduced they are quite nice from an immersive perspective but totally unnecessary for accurate driving. A range of between 20 - 30% for Suspension and possibly a bit more for ground surface is probably enough, but personally I would suggest starting at 0% until you have dialled in the main settings above.
The CSL Elite wheel settings, seem to work very well, simply left stock, but the other big influence on the overall setup, is found within the wheels drift (Dri) settings, this offer's a range of between -5 to 3, with off being 0 and after much testing, I now think of this setting as a 'sensitivity dampener', where -5 offers a very stable experience with a relatively slow reaction time and 3 being the least stable, but most reactive to steering input.
So again a range to be explored by the individual to meet their own requirements. Personally I find -1 - 1 works well and the few current car models, that I have tested all seem to respond well within this range and again this can be adjusted on the fly to meet the specific requirements of a given stage, fast and flowing or tight and twisty.
Finally I chased my tail around for many hours with the Wheel SEN (degrees of rotation) and found that leaving the wheel on 1080 (108) or Auto and the Game on its default, worked well for me and I suspect that the game has a hidden soft lock system that applies itself on a per car basis, but anyway I could find no performance or fidelity advantage to setting a specific value within the game or the wheel.
dejan carli
Member
Comments
Wheel settings:
SEN: 540
FF: 100
DRI: -3
FEI: 50
BLI: 100
SHO: 100
BRF: Your choice ( I use 30)
Game settings:
Wheel angle 540
Overall force 125
SAT 115
Tyre load 100
Self centre 100
Recenter 100
Overall vibration 100
Tyre slip 35
Suspension 35
Ground surface 75
Engine 30
Collision 40
Many thanks, just what I've been looking for, I will give them a go. 🙂
Kim
Many thanks for taking the time to upload your setting, they were very helpful.
Wheel settings are so subjective and I doubt any two people would be able to agree 100%. But having given the above settings a good go, I personally found them to be pretty damn good. 🙂
The only things that I have changed are:
Within the Game settings WRC9
Wheel angle Std @ 440
Overall Force, I agree should be somewhere between 115-135,
This settings and the Drift (Wheel Specific setting) are by far the most important to find the sweet spot's for. The Games Stock 100% value is a bit week, to say the least, but if you think about it, this '100% stock setting' is actually only 2/3 (66%) of the total overall available range.
It's probably worth remembering, that this setting effects the 'Overall Force' of all the other FFB related settings, so raising or lowering this one setting boosts or reduces the effect of all the other settings in this section, like SAT, Tyre load etc. Having the ability to alter specific wheel settings on the fly is a real bonus and makes finding the optimal setup very simple. So personally I leave the in game setting to Max (150%) and then reduce the FF wheel setting until I find the optimal value for the car, I am using at the time.
The overall balance of the rest of the settings, in this section, I find pretty damn good, so everything else in the main FFB section I leave at Stock.
In the sub section dealing with vibration settings, I again leave most thing's Stock (100%) as they generally have little to no effect on the overall driving experience.........
EXCEPT for suspension and ground surface, which are very overpowered at stock values and seriously effect the steering fidelity as a whole, if reduced they are quite nice from an immersive perspective but totally unnecessary for accurate driving. A range of between 20 - 30% for Suspension and possibly a bit more for ground surface is probably enough, but personally I would suggest starting at 0% until you have dialled in the main settings above.
The CSL Elite wheel settings, seem to work very well, simply left stock, but the other big influence on the overall setup, is found within the wheels drift (Dri) settings, this offer's a range of between -5 to 3, with off being 0 and after much testing, I now think of this setting as a 'sensitivity dampener', where -5 offers a very stable experience with a relatively slow reaction time and 3 being the least stable, but most reactive to steering input.
So again a range to be explored by the individual to meet their own requirements. Personally I find -1 - 1 works well and the few current car models, that I have tested all seem to respond well within this range and again this can be adjusted on the fly to meet the specific requirements of a given stage, fast and flowing or tight and twisty.
Finally I chased my tail around for many hours with the Wheel SEN (degrees of rotation) and found that leaving the wheel on 1080 (108) or Auto and the Game on its default, worked well for me and I suspect that the game has a hidden soft lock system that applies itself on a per car basis, but anyway I could find no performance or fidelity advantage to setting a specific value within the game or the wheel.
Hope this help's