CSL DD lost FFB mid corner?

I've spent a few hours in Assetto Corsa Competizione since getting my CSL DD and haven't had any problems until I tried the McLaren 720S that I haven't driven before, while taking a long fast turn at Spa (Blanchimont IIRC) the FFB cut out completely mid turn and them came back a couple of seconds later. I did another 5 or so laps in that car and then about 10 laps in a few other cars and didn't have the issue again.

My settings are as per the forum recommended but I have the in game gain set to 100 currently which I'm slowly experimenting with by watching the clipping.

Any idea what would cause the FFB to cut out during a few seconds of prolonged holding force? Is there a known issue and/or fix?

Comments

  • David ChiengDavid Chieng Member
    edited December 2021

    QR connection or USB?

    FFB should not be the problem.

    gain should be 100% in the Fanatec driver but 75% max in game settings.


    try this:


    Fanatec control menu settings:

    SEN: 1080

    FF: 100

    FFS: Linear (yes linear is correct) - FFB may not be as strong as if it is too strong, it overwhelms what you are suppose to feel. (very personal)

    NDP: 30

    NFR: 5

    NIN: 13

    INT: 2

    FEI: 80

    FOR: 100

    SPR: 100

    DPR: 100


    SHO: 100


    In-Game Settings: GFB

    Steer lock: 1080

    Gain: 70

    Min Force: 0

    Damper: 0

    Dynamic Damping: 100

    Road Effects: 0

  • QR connection, I'll give that a go later on then but as it only happened once it'll be hard to replicate or know if it's fixed.

  • I've been trying your settings back to back with mine and with yours I find the cars feel far too light, I could probably lap Spa with my little finger. The cars feel so light that it feels like the front wheels are off the ground all the time so it's obvious I'm playing a game, I like to feel a bit weight to the cars so it feels a lot more realistic to me. I think the main setting that made everything to light was the FFS being set to Linear.

    Other than that your settings feel pretty good so I'll keep them for a while but I just have to have FFS on Peak because it's just too weak otherwise.

  • Also, any reason you have the SEN set to 1080 instead of Auto? The description in the Fanatec Control Panel that when set to Auto it lets the game set it automatically based on each car.

  • David ChiengDavid Chieng Member
    edited December 2021

    No reason. I wanted to set it to fixed SEN and not based on the car. Currently using 900. Much prefer it.

    Have you tried using “Road Effects” in ACC? 10% or 20%? Try it if you have a spare couple of laps and do let me know what you think?

    I want my wheel to tell me when I lose traction. Going into a corner, you feel the weight right and when you lose traction, I want it to be more pronounced. You think a stronger FFB will give me that? I am only using 5nm PSU. Already ordered the 8nm to try out.

    Do you use a rig? I am only using a table. And sitting on a high backed office chair. Am struggling to be consistent. Getting a LC brake too cos I have heard, they really help to be consistent.

  • I haven't tried the road effects actually no so I'll give that a go.

    My cars feel quite heavy with FFS set to PEAK with the Boost kit and then go light when traction is lost so you should have the same result when you get yours I would imagine.

    I'm desk mounted currently and use an old Clubsport table clamp that I modified. The CSL DD will actually bolt right to it with no modification but it made the wheel stick it out too far from the desk and wouldn't allow any tilt upwards so I removed the pieces marked in red and made some steel side plates that mounted the CSL DD to the bottom plate marked in green. The side plates I made allow tilt adjustment from 0° to about +5° which was perfect for me, I could add more holes to allow more +tilt but how it is now suits my setup fine. The table clamp is very solid, I've been using it for around 9 years I think.


  • Apparently the Linear mode limits the 5nm setup to 4nm and the 8nm to 6nm, if that's true that woould explain why I felt it was far too light for me.

  • Correct. I believe this is to ensure that when peak cornering forces are applied, there is still headroom for more force from things like collisions, running over curbs, etc. without inducing clipping.

    Personally, I'd rather have stronger cornering forces and potentially clip some of the less important things like collisions, so I prefer to keep it set to Peak and use other settings usually in the game itself to limit clipping.

  • My 1st thought was also to change it to peak so that I can feel what is important ie cornering forces and just ignore the clipping when in a collision as there is nothing you can really do, as it is not something that you need FFB to tell you before a collision, you collide or you don't. 😄

    So what will you set in game to limit clipping, that will not reduce cornering forces? Is there something in Fanalab that can do that?

  • Depends on the game, really. Usually things like curb effects or some may have a setting specifically for collisions. Most games will have some sort of UI element that shows the current FFB level when out on track. I usually just run a few laps and keep an eye on that. I'll go to a track like Silverstone or Spa where I know there are long high speed corners with sustained cornering forces, and note what the levels are showing. I'll adjust the FFB to the point where I'm just below clipping on corners like that, and that's generally where I'll leave things. Sometimes games like AC or rf2 will let you tweak the FFB level on a per-car basis, which can be helpful as well.

  • Gregg DomainGregg Domain Member
    edited December 2021

    Regarding your question about Fanalab, no. Fanalab doesn't give you anything in regards to FFB controls that you can't already do via the Fanatec control panel. It's really designed mainly for easier profile management (you're not limited to only the 5 slots afforded by the wheel itself, and you can set different profiles to automatically load depending on the game you launch), and for customizing things like what data you want displayed on your wheel's LED display.

  • If u don’t use a rig don’t think a LC Break would help u by anything, you need to fix your pedals and your seat to drive with it. It really needs power to press and if something is lose it will slide away easily. What I mean is I hear the feathers in my seat when I break ;) because of the pressure that’s needed

Sign In or Register to comment.