Moving and Rumble in the Wheel all time and to hard Effekt to Rumble by 30
Off the Track still Rumble even when its on 0..
FFB on xbox Hub is by 75 same Hard Rumble when turn it down to 40 or lower..it doesnt matter
I'll give you my opinion on this whole sorry saga with the CSL elite PS4. When I first used my CSL on PC1 PS4 I was blown away with the ffb, absolutely fantastic even better than my CSW V2. This is with the original firmware I updated on purchase, kerbs and road feel was outstanding with my game and wheel setting, no rattling to excess like some people were experiencing. I thought they must be setting some parameters far to high. Then having listened to these guys Fanatec started to update the firmware to keep them happy, now the ffb on PC1 is nowhere near as good, if I'd known this I would have never updated the firmware, this affected AC as well. I know there are some problems with PC2 but I feel these firmware updates have had a negative affect on the overall feel of the wheel. I just hope that Fanatec can find something to satisfy everybody.
I'll give you my opinion on this whole sorry saga with the CSL elite PS4. When I first used my CSL on PC1 PS4 I was blown away with the ffb, absolutely fantastic even better than my CSW V2. This is with the original firmware I updated on purchase, kerbs and road feel was outstanding with my game and wheel setting, no rattling to excess like some people were experiencing. I thought they must be setting some parameters far to high. Then having listened to these guys Fanatec started to update the firmware to keep them happy, now the ffb on PC1 is nowhere near as good, if I'd known this I would have never updated the firmware, this affected AC as well. I know there are some problems with PC2 but I feel these firmware updates have had a negative affect on the overall feel of the wheel. I just hope that Fanatec can find something to satisfy everybody.
Today I had some problems with the new driver 293. I use the Wheel only on PC Win10 home 64bit
When i start the wheel everything is working fine, when i open up the property page, and i change something and press "ok" or "übernehmen" then the wheel suddenly disconnect ( its not shown on the property page anymore), the fan starts to run, but the wheel is "dead" , it don´t react anymore.(the red light from the mode also goes out) I have to pull the power plug , to start it again... sometimes it happens directly when i press "ok", sometimes it closes the property page normal , but when i open it again, the crash happens.
when i start the wheel and don´t open the property page, i could play a game and everything is working fine.
I have already the new "fall creators update" for Windows 10 i don´t know if its something with the driver , the wheel or maybe Windows?
I already downloaded the driver again, also i reflashed the firmware and installed the driver again, and changed the USB2 Port.
I mean normaly i don´t need to change anything in the property page, so i don´t know if the error was there from the beginning. If i don´t change anything in the property page, i can use the wheel normaly, but it feels not good to know something is wrong...
Try apply first before pressing okay. Might be that there's the iasue
No, it doesn´t matter if i choose "apply" or "ok" first, it crashes both ways
Hi Fernando,
I had exactly the same issue with my rim. So I've sent it back to Fanatec and got a new one.
I've had it too. But still working fine. I didn't have it anymore since I press apply first before closing ythe screen
The led came back perfectly now, I still can not understand the problem, I hope it is software, I live in Brazil and sending it back will be expensive and time consuming.
I'll give you my opinion on this whole sorry saga with the CSL elite PS4. When I first used my CSL on PC1 PS4 I was blown away with the ffb, absolutely fantastic even better than my CSW V2. This is with the original firmware I updated on purchase, kerbs and road feel was outstanding with my game and wheel setting, no rattling to excess like some people were experiencing. I thought they must be setting some parameters far to high. Then having listened to these guys Fanatec started to update the firmware to keep them happy, now the ffb on PC1 is nowhere near as good, if I'd known this I would have never updated the firmware, this affected AC as well. I know there are some problems with PC2 but I feel these firmware updates have had a negative affect on the overall feel of the wheel. I just hope that Fanatec can find something to satisfy everybody.
With any change we made we also made sure that at least one setting is identical to the previous FW setting. Try an old fw version and you will certainly feel no difference with the right setting. Of course the game could have changed as well but usually this affects all steering wheels.
I'll give you my opinion on this whole sorry saga with the CSL elite PS4. When I first used my CSL on PC1 PS4 I was blown away with the ffb, absolutely fantastic even better than my CSW V2. This is with the original firmware I updated on purchase, kerbs and road feel was outstanding with my game and wheel setting, no rattling to excess like some people were experiencing. I thought they must be setting some parameters far to high. Then having listened to these guys Fanatec started to update the firmware to keep them happy, now the ffb on PC1 is nowhere near as good, if I'd known this I would have never updated the firmware, this affected AC as well. I know there are some problems with PC2 but I feel these firmware updates have had a negative affect on the overall feel of the wheel. I just hope that Fanatec can find something to satisfy everybody.
This mirrors my experience exactly. With the
stock software in purple mode on PC1 the only in-game FFB adjustment I
made was to lower the gain because the FFB was so strong. It felt
awesome...every detail was there. After updating to 335 and using yellow
mode on PC1 (using the same in-game FFB settings as before) it felt
really bad and not at all like the original FW. Now I'm back to 314 and
purple mode on PC1 but it still feels the same as 335 in yellow
mode...that awesome detailed FFB is gone!
Do
you remember the FW version on the wheel before you updated it? I know I
remember seeing 315 on the wheel display prior to updating, but after
going back to the previous FW it is 314. I really want to get that
awesome detailed FFB in PC1 back so I can enjoy it again while waiting
for SMS to get the FFB working properly in PC2.
I'll give you my opinion on this whole sorry saga with the CSL elite PS4. When I first used my CSL on PC1 PS4 I was blown away with the ffb, absolutely fantastic even better than my CSW V2. This is with the original firmware I updated on purchase, kerbs and road feel was outstanding with my game and wheel setting, no rattling to excess like some people were experiencing. I thought they must be setting some parameters far to high. Then having listened to these guys Fanatec started to update the firmware to keep them happy, now the ffb on PC1 is nowhere near as good, if I'd known this I would have never updated the firmware, this affected AC as well. I know there are some problems with PC2 but I feel these firmware updates have had a negative affect on the overall feel of the wheel. I just hope that Fanatec can find something to satisfy everybody.
This mirrors my experience exactly. With the
stock software in purple mode on PC1 the only in-game FFB adjustment I
made was to lower the gain because the FFB was so strong. It felt
awesome...every detail was there. After updating to 335 and using yellow
mode on PC1 (using the same in-game FFB settings as before) it felt
really bad and not at all like the original FW. Now I'm back to 314 and
purple mode on PC1 but it still feels the same as 335 in yellow
mode...that awesome detailed FFB is gone!
Do
you remember the FW version on the wheel before you updated it? I know I
remember seeing 315 on the wheel display prior to updating, but after
going back to the previous FW it is 314. I really want to get that
awesome detailed FFB in PC1 back so I can enjoy it again while waiting
for SMS to get the FFB working properly in PC2.
Glad to hear someone agrees with me. There are some FW choices but is one of them the original ? can't remember the number.
I'll give you my opinion on this whole sorry saga with the CSL elite PS4. When I first used my CSL on PC1 PS4 I was blown away with the ffb, absolutely fantastic even better than my CSW V2. This is with the original firmware I updated on purchase, kerbs and road feel was outstanding with my game and wheel setting, no rattling to excess like some people were experiencing. I thought they must be setting some parameters far to high. Then having listened to these guys Fanatec started to update the firmware to keep them happy, now the ffb on PC1 is nowhere near as good, if I'd known this I would have never updated the firmware, this affected AC as well. I know there are some problems with PC2 but I feel these firmware updates have had a negative affect on the overall feel of the wheel. I just hope that Fanatec can find something to satisfy everybody.
I think you're using the base in G29 mode. Did you press the mode button more than 10 seconds to achieve V2 mode? If not....do that firstly and enjoy pc1 like you did before.
And with AC... It is caused by the game update. I've tested AC with 3 different fw versions, even with the oldest fw you guys don't have, cause I've beta tested the product, but there's absolutely no difference in ffb feel between them 3 fws.
@Rocky Burney are you absolutely sure your in game settings were the same as before in pc1? Because, IF you've tried it first in purple mode, perhaps not knowing yet at the time this wasn't V2 mode anymore, all ffb and button layout settings are reset. So if you've changed values in ffb settings before... You'll have to set them exactly the same. I'm not saying that IS the cause... Just thinking about possibilities
Hi Fernando,
I had exactly the same issue with my rim. So I've sent it back to Fanatec and got a new one.
I've had it too. But still working fine. I didn't have it anymore since I press apply first before closing ythe screen
The led came back perfectly now, I still can not understand the problem, I hope it is software, I live in Brazil and sending it back will be expensive and time consuming.
I think this is Fanatec application related, and not wheel related.
Antoine, thanks for the suggestions, I'm 100% sure my in-game settings are correct. The first time I tried it with 335 was in yellow mode. It was so far off from stock FW purple mode that my first thought was "something has to be off in my ffb settings", so I reset everything to default, put my gain back to where it was previously, restarted and recalibrated the wheel. Still bad. I've reflashed firmware, reset ffb settings, reset tuning menu slots on the wheel, tried everything I know to do.
Another oddity is the brake rumble on my CSP V1's...it works perfectly in PC1 (using pedals plugged into wheel and ABS function on the wheel). But in PC2 it did not work at all with the stock firmware, and on 335 it worked for one evening, and the next time I powered on the PS4 it had stopped working and hasn't worked on PC2 since...but it still works fine on PC1...that one makes my brain hurt lol.
Glad to hear someone agrees with me. There are some FW choices but is one of them the original ? can't remember the number.
Man I can close my eyes and remember seeing 315 the first few times I started the wheel, but maybe I'm going crazy
292 driver includes 314 FW and 293 driver includes 335.
Come to think of it, can someone who has the North America version of the wheel and HASN'T updated the stock firmware verify what is actually on it...so if I AM going crazy at least I will be aware of it?
I got some greenhorn comments and questions regarding following set up:
- CSL Elite Wheel PS4 + CSL elite pedal with LC brake (used on PS4) - 64bit v 293 driver:335 018 firmeware (update with pedals connected to the wheel base, and wheel base connected to the computer) (firmeware flash seem to worked fine. Only strange after the flash wheel did not go to CAL mode. It stuck in a status were no buttons worked and no connection to computer anymore, could not even turn it off with the power button. Needed to disconnect power supply, and start again, than it went to CAL mode like discribed in the manual.
Do I need to update LC brake or any of the pedal seperately ? Do I need to calibrate LC brake or any of the pedal seperatly ?
Thanks a lot for your help. I am realy impressed by the quallity of the wheel and the FF power, hope to get the tuning adjusted to my liking more and more.
Do I need to update LC brake or any of the pedal seperately ? Do I need to calibrate LC brake or any of the pedal seperatly ?
Martin,
You do need to connect the LC module to the PC directly by USB to update the firmware. If yours are like mine there is a new FW for them. I believe mine shipped with v1.8 and there is a v1.9. I did not notice any perceptible change from this update.
I will defer to others on calibration...but I calibrate in game where necessary. I haven't even looked in the Fanatec software for a calibration function.
Moving and Rumble in the Wheel all time and to hard Effekt to Rumble by 30
Off the Track still Rumble even when its on 0..
FFB on xbox Hub is by 75 same Hard Rumble when turn it down to 40 or lower..it doesnt matter
Ok Fanatec no answer or better a Solution to this Rumble Vibration for no Reason...for a Equitement over 1000 Euro thats just poor..but however starting a youtoube with a Fanatec Fail Series not Podium Series maybe thats a Solution and a Give a Way of my mystery Wheel and give People good Points to think twice before buy from fanatec Products and theres some good Points! Would that help? I dont think so but why not if u dont care why i have to....Done
Moving and Rumble in the Wheel all time and to hard Effekt to Rumble by 30
Off the Track still Rumble even when its on 0..
FFB on xbox Hub is by 75 same Hard Rumble when turn it down to 40 or lower..it doesnt matter
Ok Fanatec no answer or better a Solution to this Rumble Vibration for no Reason...for a Equitement over 1000 Euro thats just poor..but however starting a youtoube with a Fanatec Fail Series not Podium Series maybe thats a Solution and a Give a Way of my mystery Wheel and give People good Points to think twice before buy from fanatec Products and theres some good Points! Would that help? I dont think so but why not if u dont care why i have to....Done
Did you contact the support? There is a red box on the homepage from time to time, where you can chat with the technical support directly.
Did all of this Process with support two of them say yes to send it back and then another on email say no its a calibration fail but thats not true..so what now? I had never buy a V2 for full Price when 3months later comes out a new V2.5 wheres also cheaper than V2 however thats another Point but this is not acceptable not working wheel for that Price buying.
I recently purchased the CSL Elite PS4 Wheel to play GT Sport on PS4 and Forza 7 on PC, and I have a few questions:
1) Regarding GT Sport on PS4:
I'm aware that GT Sport must be used in "Purple Mode" until it's officially implemented. Until then, can anybody share their tuning settings for best results (both in-game and in-wheel)?
My best settings so far:
Game: Max Torque 3, FFB Sensitivity 3
Wheel: FFB 60, FEI 60, everything else default (all 100's with Drift at -5)
These settings still feel unrealistic with possible clipping in corners, but they're much better than the defaults. With the default settings (Game torque and sensitivity at 5, all wheel settings at default), I was getting strong oscillations just driving in a straight line!
2) Regarding Forza 7 on PC:
It's still not clear to me what mode I should be using - Red Mode or Purple Mode.
After lots of fiddling and frustration, I managed to get the wheel to work in Purple Mode with a custom profile. However, I feel like it should work by simply selecting "CSL Elite" as the profile. Can somebody help me with this?
I'll give you my opinion on this whole sorry saga with the CSL elite PS4. When I first used my CSL on PC1 PS4 I was blown away with the ffb, absolutely fantastic even better than my CSW V2. This is with the original firmware I updated on purchase, kerbs and road feel was outstanding with my game and wheel setting, no rattling to excess like some people were experiencing. I thought they must be setting some parameters far to high. Then having listened to these guys Fanatec started to update the firmware to keep them happy, now the ffb on PC1 is nowhere near as good, if I'd known this I would have never updated the firmware, this affected AC as well. I know there are some problems with PC2 but I feel these firmware updates have had a negative affect on the overall feel of the wheel. I just hope that Fanatec can find something to satisfy everybody.
I think you're using the base in G29 mode. Did you press the mode button more than 10 seconds to achieve V2 mode? If not....do that firstly and enjoy pc1 like you did before.
And with AC... It is caused by the game update. I've tested AC with 3 different fw versions, even with the oldest fw you guys don't have, cause I've beta tested the product, but there's absolutely no difference in ffb feel between them 3 fws.
@Rocky Burney are you absolutely sure your in game settings were the same as before in pc1? Because, IF you've tried it first in purple mode, perhaps not knowing yet at the time this wasn't V2 mode anymore, all ffb and button layout settings are reset. So if you've changed values in ffb settings before... You'll have to set them exactly the same. I'm not saying that IS the cause... Just thinking about possibilities
Thanks, I'll give that a try. Can't remember seeing any explanation about yellow mode on firmware update page, never knew it existed until coming onto this forum, Fanatec can be very vague at times, be better if they gave a detailed list of changes/options available, all I knew was use purple mode for PC1 which I though was the V2 mode.
Did all of this Process with support two of them say yes to send it back and then another on email say no its a calibration fail but thats not true..so what now? I had never buy a V2 for full Price when 3months later comes out a new V2.5 wheres also cheaper than V2 however thats another Point but this is not acceptable not working wheel for that Price buying.
Hi Omar,
I have seen your issue video and to be honest...there is no visible problem on the video. The wheel base does not necessarily have to move to the absolute 0 position after it starts. That is not necessary and was not in the focus of our develoment since it has no real relevance. The wheel moves to the middle after the init but not to the perfect center. What is important is that the wheel knows the perfect center and that the 0 (in software) is and stays in the perfect center.
I'll give you my opinion on this whole sorry saga with the CSL elite PS4. When I first used my CSL on PC1 PS4 I was blown away with the ffb, absolutely fantastic even better than my CSW V2. This is with the original firmware I updated on purchase, kerbs and road feel was outstanding with my game and wheel setting, no rattling to excess like some people were experiencing. I thought they must be setting some parameters far to high. Then having listened to these guys Fanatec started to update the firmware to keep them happy, now the ffb on PC1 is nowhere near as good, if I'd known this I would have never updated the firmware, this affected AC as well. I know there are some problems with PC2 but I feel these firmware updates have had a negative affect on the overall feel of the wheel. I just hope that Fanatec can find something to satisfy everybody.
I think you're using the base in G29 mode. Did you press the mode button more than 10 seconds to achieve V2 mode? If not....do that firstly and enjoy pc1 like you did before.
And with AC... It is caused by the game update. I've tested AC with 3 different fw versions, even with the oldest fw you guys don't have, cause I've beta tested the product, but there's absolutely no difference in ffb feel between them 3 fws.
@Rocky Burney are you absolutely sure your in game settings were the same as before in pc1? Because, IF you've tried it first in purple mode, perhaps not knowing yet at the time this wasn't V2 mode anymore, all ffb and button layout settings are reset. So if you've changed values in ffb settings before... You'll have to set them exactly the same. I'm not saying that IS the cause... Just thinking about possibilities
Thanks, I'll give that a try. Can't remember seeing any explanation about yellow mode on firmware update page, never knew it existed until coming onto this forum, Fanatec can be very vague at times, be better if they gave a detailed list of changes/options available, all I knew was use purple mode for PC1 which I though was the V2 mode.
Good Morning from here, Grandville all of us take from granted we're the best doing thinks but in my personal experience if you buy a new device that come in box the number one step is read the instructions lol and the number one step you will find in the configurations is make end upgrade to the last firmware version to the wheel, don't take personal but is common to forget that step so next time take your time and read the User Manual, regards and have a good race!!!!!!
Since my post yesterday, Gran Turismo Sport has updated to version 1.05. In the release notes, they mentioned an increase in torque in the neutral position:
"The steering wheel controller's force feedback has been adjusted to strengthen the rise of torque near neutral position and suppress vibration on kerbstones."
Now the wheel doesn't want stay centered and tries to push it to one side, causing shaking/oscillations on straights. I can't remember how noticeable it was in the previous version of the game, but now it's so noticeable that it detracts from the gameplay. I'm using default settings in the wheel, except for FEI being set to 50%. In game torque and sensitivity are both at 1. See video below:
I've read elsewhere regarding other games and/or wheels that the game could be looking for a deadzone which doesn't exist. Unfortunately, I don't see any way to create an artificial deadzone on this wheel.
I'll give you my opinion on this whole sorry saga with the CSL elite PS4. When I first used my CSL on PC1 PS4 I was blown away with the ffb, absolutely fantastic even better than my CSW V2. This is with the original firmware I updated on purchase, kerbs and road feel was outstanding with my game and wheel setting, no rattling to excess like some people were experiencing. I thought they must be setting some parameters far to high. Then having listened to these guys Fanatec started to update the firmware to keep them happy, now the ffb on PC1 is nowhere near as good, if I'd known this I would have never updated the firmware, this affected AC as well. I know there are some problems with PC2 but I feel these firmware updates have had a negative affect on the overall feel of the wheel. I just hope that Fanatec can find something to satisfy everybody.
I think you're using the base in G29 mode. Did you press the mode button more than 10 seconds to achieve V2 mode? If not....do that firstly and enjoy pc1 like you did before.
And with AC... It is caused by the game update. I've tested AC with 3 different fw versions, even with the oldest fw you guys don't have, cause I've beta tested the product, but there's absolutely no difference in ffb feel between them 3 fws.
@Rocky Burney are you absolutely sure your in game settings were the same as before in pc1? Because, IF you've tried it first in purple mode, perhaps not knowing yet at the time this wasn't V2 mode anymore, all ffb and button layout settings are reset. So if you've changed values in ffb settings before... You'll have to set them exactly the same. I'm not saying that IS the cause... Just thinking about possibilities
Thanks, I'll give that a try. Can't remember seeing any explanation about yellow mode on firmware update page, never knew it existed until coming onto this forum, Fanatec can be very vague at times, be better if they gave a detailed list of changes/options available, all I knew was use purple mode for PC1 which I though was the V2 mode.
Good Morning from here, Grandville all of us take from granted we're the best doing thinks but in my personal experience if you buy a new device that come in box the number one step is read the instructions lol and the number one step you will find in the configurations is make end upgrade to the last firmware version to the wheel, don't take personal but is common to forget that step so next time take your time and read the User Manual, regards and have a good race!!!!!!
Not wishing to start an argument my friend but PC1 was originally stated to use purple mode which was listed. Unless you visit this website your non the wiser , and yes I do read instruction manuals. Kind regards to you .
I'll give you my opinion on this whole sorry saga with the CSL elite PS4. When I first used my CSL on PC1 PS4 I was blown away with the ffb, absolutely fantastic even better than my CSW V2. This is with the original firmware I updated on purchase, kerbs and road feel was outstanding with my game and wheel setting, no rattling to excess like some people were experiencing. I thought they must be setting some parameters far to high. Then having listened to these guys Fanatec started to update the firmware to keep them happy, now the ffb on PC1 is nowhere near as good, if I'd known this I would have never updated the firmware, this affected AC as well. I know there are some problems with PC2 but I feel these firmware updates have had a negative affect on the overall feel of the wheel. I just hope that Fanatec can find something to satisfy everybody.
I think you're using the base in G29 mode. Did you press the mode button more than 10 seconds to achieve V2 mode? If not....do that firstly and enjoy pc1 like you did before.
And with AC... It is caused by the game update. I've tested AC with 3 different fw versions, even with the oldest fw you guys don't have, cause I've beta tested the product, but there's absolutely no difference in ffb feel between them 3 fws.
@Rocky Burney are you absolutely sure your in game settings were the same as before in pc1? Because, IF you've tried it first in purple mode, perhaps not knowing yet at the time this wasn't V2 mode anymore, all ffb and button layout settings are reset. So if you've changed values in ffb settings before... You'll have to set them exactly the same. I'm not saying that IS the cause... Just thinking about possibilities
Thanks, I'll give that a try. Can't remember seeing any explanation about yellow mode on firmware update page, never knew it existed until coming onto this forum, Fanatec can be very vague at times, be better if they gave a detailed list of changes/options available, all I knew was use purple mode for PC1 which I though was the V2 mode.
Good Morning from here, Grandville all of us take from granted we're the best doing thinks but in my personal experience if you buy a new device that come in box the number one step is read the instructions lol and the number one step you will find in the configurations is make end upgrade to the last firmware version to the wheel, don't take personal but is common to forget that step so next time take your time and read the User Manual, regards and have a good race!!!!!!
Since my post yesterday, Gran Turismo Sport has updated to version 1.05. In the release notes, they mentioned an increase in torque in the neutral position:
"The steering wheel controller's force feedback has been adjusted to strengthen the rise of torque near neutral position and suppress vibration on kerbstones."
Now the wheel doesn't want stay centered and tries to push it to one side, causing shaking/oscillations on straights. I can't remember how noticeable it was in the previous version of the game, but now it's so noticeable that it detracts from the gameplay. I'm using default settings in the wheel, except for FEI being set to 50%. In game torque and sensitivity are both at 1. See video below:
I've read elsewhere regarding other games and/or wheels that the game could be looking for a deadzone which doesn't exist. Unfortunately, I don't see any way to create an artificial deadzone on this wheel.
The far right blue shift light doesn't seem to be working after the last firmware update. Anyone else experience this? Not sure it's worth the hassle to return if it's a hardware issue.
Since my post yesterday, Gran Turismo Sport has updated to version 1.05. In the release notes, they mentioned an increase in torque in the neutral position:
"The steering wheel controller's force feedback has been adjusted to strengthen the rise of torque near neutral position and suppress vibration on kerbstones."
Now the wheel doesn't want stay centered and tries to push it to one side, causing shaking/oscillations on straights. I can't remember how noticeable it was in the previous version of the game, but now it's so noticeable that it detracts from the gameplay. I'm using default settings in the wheel, except for FEI being set to 50%. In game torque and sensitivity are both at 1. See video below:
I've read elsewhere regarding other games and/or wheels that the game could be looking for a deadzone which doesn't exist. Unfortunately, I don't see any way to create an artificial deadzone on this wheel.
Can somebody please help with this issue?
I managed to find some values to minimize the rattling and still have some feeling for the car:
In game:
Max FF torque: 8
FF sensitivity: 1
Wheel:
SEn: Aut
FF: 80
SHo: 100
ABS: off
dri -4
For: 40
Spr: 100
dPr: off
FEI: 40
If I compare the feel of the CSL ELITE wheel with the 3 Games I have on PS4 ( AC,GTS and PC2 ). Assetto Corsa is the game (in BLUE Mode) which provides the best feeling for me. PC2 and GTS is not that good in direct comparison to Assetto Corsa.
I wish there would be faster updates by the game publishers for our FANATEC wheel.
If I compare the feel of the CSL ELITE wheel with the 3 Games I have on PS4 ( AC,GTS and PC2 ). Assetto Corsa is the game (in BLUE Mode) which provides the best feeling for me. PC2 and GTS is not that good in direct comparison to Assetto Corsa.
I wish there would be faster updates by the game publishers for our FANATEC wheel.
Surprising to read that you find the blue mode the best in
AC Jorg, in blue AC doesn’t see the CSL as the G29 as it should..
Comments
No, it doesn´t matter if i choose "apply" or "ok" first, it crashes both ways
Another oddity is the brake rumble on my CSP V1's...it works perfectly in PC1 (using pedals plugged into wheel and ABS function on the wheel). But in PC2 it did not work at all with the stock firmware, and on 335 it worked for one evening, and the next time I powered on the PS4 it had stopped working and hasn't worked on PC2 since...but it still works fine on PC1...that one makes my brain hurt lol.
I got some greenhorn comments and questions regarding following set up:
- CSL Elite Wheel PS4 + CSL elite pedal with LC brake (used on PS4)
- 64bit v 293 driver:335 018 firmeware (update with pedals connected to the wheel base, and wheel base connected to the computer)
(firmeware flash seem to worked fine. Only strange after the flash wheel did not go to CAL mode. It stuck in a status were no buttons worked and no connection to computer anymore, could not even turn it off with the power button. Needed to disconnect power supply, and start again, than it went to CAL mode like discribed in the manual.
Do I need to update LC brake or any of the pedal seperately ?
Do I need to calibrate LC brake or any of the pedal seperatly ?
Thanks a lot for your help.
I am realy impressed by the quallity of the wheel and the FF power, hope to get the tuning adjusted to my liking more and more.
SA
I managed to find some values to minimize the rattling and still have some feeling for the car: In game: Max FF torque: 8 FF sensitivity: 1 Wheel: SEn: Aut FF: 80 SHo: 100 ABS: off dri -4 For: 40 Spr: 100 dPr: off FEI: 40
Surprising to read that you find the blue mode the best in AC Jorg, in blue AC doesn’t see the CSL as the G29 as it should..