Clubsport Formula F1 Wheel Crashing mid race

Daniel HaynesDaniel Haynes Member
edited November 2019 in Steering Wheels

Podium F1 - At random intervals the f1 steering wheel will freeze, LED lights and OLED stuck on whatever they displayed at the time and no button presses register in game. I can still steer and receive force feedback however. Happening in Assetto Corsa and iRacing.

Loading windows controller properties after a crash shows it registers steering input but nothing else. you cant test OLED screen or LEDS. its all dead apart from steering input.

You can restore complete functionality only by removing the rim and putting it back on without even exiting the game or by power cycling the podium base.

Tried new USB cables, different usb ports.

Uninstalling fanalab and drivers and starting from scratch including flashing base,motor and wheel.

Tried drivers 336, 345, 346 and 347

nothing stops it. and it happens with or without fanalab installed.

Never had a crash with the BMW GT2 rim after many many hours, so its not a base issue but limited to a wheel issue by the looks of it. Maybe software related that can be fixed with firmware?

I have seen several reports of Clubsport Formula V2 style rims with the same issue on this forum and reddit - not just the PS4 F1 wheel. Also some people with this issue are using CSW and CSL bases not just podium bases. Has anyone found a fix or is it a forced RMA replacement?

Comments

  • Joseph GossenJoseph Gossen Member, Moderator

    Hi Daniel, can you check to make sure the 5 screws inside the wheel rim and wheel base are secure and there are no loose screws? This could cause connection issues. If that does not resolve the issue please contact the support team.

  • Yes I did go over the entire wheel and made sure every single bolt and cable was firmly attached including cap screws around the pin connector. Also the APM ribbon cables inside the wheel etc. Tried using the securing bolt on the quick hitch as well. Nothing has so far helped. It seems to be an issue with a few Clubsport Formula V2 Rims reported with all different bases:

    I tried all solutions in the older forum post on here but didnt find a fix. Sent all the information I have to fanatec support already as well.

    I live in South Africa so an RMA wont be easy, so have been trying to exhaust all options first, or if Fanatec are aware of a certain component causing the problem asking if it would be possible to fix myself with supplied parts to avoid RMA and customs charges etc.

    Troubleshooting tried:

    1 – Tried two different USB cables to the podium base

    2 – Tried several different USB ports on my computer including ports run by a separate usb controllers (USB 2, 3 and 3.1)

    3 – Uninstalled both Fanalab Beta 12 and drivers completely to start again, Reinstalled drivers and flashed the firmware for Base, Motor and wheel rim each time.

    4 – I have tried fresh installs of drivers 336 from the APM product page, and beta drivers 345, 346 and 347 from the forum with and without Fanalab installed.

    5 – Removed all other USB devices on the computer apart from the podium base.

    6 - Checked all connectors and ribbon cables on the wheel to ensure they are secure

    7 - Lubricated the podium rubber as recommended so the wheel can be secured much easier and entire full pin contact.

    8 - Tried a couple of different power sockets just in case its some kind of grounding issue.

    The Problem currently only seems to be with the F1 Podium Wheel and not the Podium base which works perfectly with the BMW GT2 Wheel and never lost steering or feedback with any wheel.

    My System

    AMD Ryzen R9 3900X

    Asus Crosshair VI Motherboard

    32GB Trident Z DDR 4 Ram

    Geforce GTX 1080ti

    SteamVR - Samsung Odyssey+

  • Daniel HaynesDaniel Haynes Member
    edited November 2019

    contacted support and they just suggested rma for replacment, and it was probably an electrical fault. As I live in South Africa and an rma would be a real pain I dismantled the entire wheel to check everything just in case. The main ribben cable going from the quick release pins to the circuit board has a connector on the end of it that is even held in place with hot glue at the factory... however this was not 100% secure. When I pushed the connector it went into the socket a little more.. maybe just 1mm.. didn’t think too much of it. Rebuilt the wheel and now it’s completely fixed. About 5hrs+ of testing and it won’t freeze at all. Previously it would crash within 10mins tops every time by the end.

    I think this connector needs to be 100% secure and it wasn’t from the factory. It’s ironic that it’s the only connector on the board that is factory glued to stop it coming loose.


    i can’t just yet be 100% sure it’s fixed with only 5hrs testing.. but I’m 95%. Will report back if fault reoccurs. However for last two weeks I’ve never been able to drive more than 10minutes without the wheel crashing.

  • Good info. I had a similar problem with my shifter. I took it apart, reconnected all connections and it works now.


    I am having issues with my Formula V2 Wheel right now. A recent update to their site and my products are no longer associated with my account. I have no method to contact for warrant or repairs by them outside of $1.99 / minute call.

  • open it up and give the central connector a good push and make sure it’s secure.. I’ve now been a month without a single issue.

    rma cancelled. ... it took them two weeks just to send the rma details.. thankfully I had forgotten all about it by then and was enjoying my wheel again. 🤣

  • Opening up will probably make you loose the warranty I guess, but if it worked, happy days.

  • No warranty void sticker removed. I was in contact with fanatec support who made recommendations, and gave their suspicions of fault, whilst they didn’t ask me to open the wheel they didn’t say I couldn’t. When I reported back my findings they seemed happy and even asked me to report back later and confirm fix, as it will help them diagnose future issues etc.

    its really easy to dismantle. Just a few screws and the whole back pops straight off..

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