SQ V1.5 Detects randomly wrong gears
Rolando Fuentes
Member
Hello,
I have all the Fanatec stuff since Sept. Everything was going great until last week I it missing gears... sometimes when downshifting from 5th to 4th it engage 2nd and sometimes when going from 2nd to 1st, it engage Reverse.
It start happening one in a while, but now if mo frequently.
Any help about this? What do you recommend?
Thanks!!
Comments
i have the same issues
me too
Im not alone...
I use to have the same problem with the shifter of my old G25....after 10 years of use... 15 minutes and I solved it.
In this case, that the shifter (alone) cost me more than the whole G25 bundle... I expect just a "bit" better reability...
Hope it have an easy solution...
Out of curiously, how loose do you have the shifter? I had that happen awhile back when I loosened it up while in SQ mode. When I was using it in H shift it was registering the wrong gear. After tightening it worked perfect..
If this doesn’t resolve it, I would reach out to customer support.
I would say very hard, not lose at all...
Today I can add another issue... shor race... 4 laps... from 4th to 5th... and ir engage reverse... its very frustrating... I was winning the race
Which is the most efective way to contact customer service? I'Ve sent them a message about 2 weeks ago and no reply.
I bought this stuff in US, but actually I live in another country...
Thanks!!!!
Hey guys. I also had the same issues and it made me loose many races. I got frustrated and decided to open it up and see if there's anything obvious inside... Took me many tries but I eventually figured it out. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures but I'll try my best to explain.
First the good news. Nothing is most likely broken. The issue is that for the left to right motion of the shifter, it uses a hall sensor and a very small cylindrical magnet in a v groove notch that over time as oil seeps in can move and through off the calibration. Cleaning the oil off of the magnet and the v groove helps, but if you bang it into gears then the magnet can move. The solution I found was too apply a very small dab of crazy glue on the magnet and the v groove to make sure it doesn't move. And voila never had the issue again. The process as I remember it:
1- Remove the shifter knob
2- Remove top plate of the shifter by removing 4 hex screws on top
3- Disconnect wires to remove the top assembly. This video shows the first 3 steps https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aIvEy_yDbIY
4- Remove the small PCB board that has the hall sensor. Careful not to loose the small screws and I believe spacers on the back. See this video at 25:27 where he points out the board with the hall sensor you need to remove https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3PvGNoFqjI
5- You should then see the small magnet. Clean off oil in the magnet area and the magnet if any and then glue magnet in place with a very small pin drop amount of crazy glue. Wait for the glue to dry before re-assembly.
Not the easiest fix, but can be done.
Hope this helps.
Jose
Thanks Jose!!!
Seems that I might have a project for next saturday.
3 questions... hope you could help me.
1. How easy is to mess it all? Probability to destroy the shifter?
2. How much time should I need?? (to have a estimate).. I have no problem working with my hands, Im use to disassebly big stuff, work with a welding machine.. usual stuff... and with "fine things" some notebooks work and I have RC cars fkr the last 30 years..
3. It is duficult?
Thanks a lot for your help.
P.d What is crazy glue?? Cyanoacrylate??
I haven't seen anyone mention re-calibrating the shifter. I assume you all did that already?
Yeah!!!!... about 6 times
Paddle shifts are good... but H pattern shifting and heel and toe is much more fun... yesterday night was a nightmare... about 6 reverse @200 km/hr
sounds accurate to my experience.
Let's see...
1st time when I installed it for the first time
2nd Because I did the 1st one wrong
3rd when I update to the Beta driver 347 and firmware 664
4th a week after because it happen again (one of the driver and firmware update was because I thought the problem was because of the driver or firmware)
5th When it happen a few times after and I just left the Shifter in the place where it was (I was going from 5th to 4th and it engage 2nd) I stopped racing and confirm that it was on 4th gear (that time I uninstall and install everything again)
6th and 7th Last Monday and last Wednesday.
It was 7 times... but due to this problem... only 4😓 not accurate at all hahahaha
First I will try to get in contact with customer service... Getting my hand in this stuff could void the warranty...
I've been having issues with my Fanatec add ons communicating with my dd from the time I purchased my direct drive and started updating the firmware to the betas. I'm on Beta 346 I have a new issue every time I try and turn on my device and it's usually rectified by me unplugging and plugging in my peripheral from the base until it is detected properly . because it's being detected by the base properly it will then automatically calibrate as intended on ps4 , Why it's doing that ,I have no idea. why I can reconcile whatever the input is by doing this , I also have no idea.
all tech support says is calibrate min/max in advance settings of the driver, i remind them most ps4 titles automatically calibrate and dont have this option.
they say firmware and then come up with an elaborate system to update that requires computer science. this basically gets them off the hook for selling junk under false pretenses?
Unless you have a high end pc.
I get pretty frustrated with tech support as i mostly feel they aren't reading or not understanding these issues
My case, the problem start before I install the Beta driver... The first time I thought it was a Driver or Firmware problem. But it is not... i'm sure.
In your case, a DD wheel cost as much as my bundle (CSW V2.5, pedals and shifter), and to don't have them working the way it should must be very frustrating.
In my experience, solution on 99% of the cases is found in specialized forums, but first you must follow all the steps with CS (Customer Support). Most of the times they put someone without any experience to answer pre defined questions (I know how it works, I worked for about 8 years in Customer Experience). When that thing don't work (they don't understand the issue and they answer are with no sense), you have to start escalating your messages, to all email address that you could find related to the issue.... once in a while you get with the right guy (and most of the time they are very very helpful) ..
I just wrote to CS, let's see their reply, in the meantime I have hope that it would be solved.
P.D. Can you roll back to the old firmware? The one last one that is not Beta?
This is the same issue I was having. Cracked open the case and added a layer of insulation behind the small PCB at the front of the main shifter shaft. Found the video fix on YouTube. Haven’t had any issues on Forza, DiRT 2.0, or Assetto Corsa. No more blown engines due to shifting into the wrong gear.
Same here, it switches to reverse mid racing. Do we have to open it up and seal it?
I connected a 1uF capacitor from the black wire on the cable assembly connecting the two PCBs, to the case via one of the screws holding one of the PCBs in place. This I believe ties the 0 volt line to the case stopping cross coupling of signals via the metal shifter case. In my case it stopped the issue dead. It has been working without fault for a month.
I think Richard might be on track to find a proper solution.
The thing is that the issues we experience can be easily replicated:
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If you do the same with, for instance, 4th gear it will show 2nd gear upon reconnecting the cable. You can also do the following to trigger this behavior without disconnecting the cable:
Now, what all this tells us is that the X axis takes certain time to give proper readings and, at first, it always reports being fully to the left. That also means that a slight current fluctuation for the second board (controlling the X axis) is causing the problems.
In my case usually the problems arises from going to 3rd and registering as 1st gear. This also suggests that the difference in current is very little as opposed to fully disconnect the cable and reconnecting with, instead of 1st gear, goes to reverse.
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Possible solutions:
I don't know exactly what Richard did. A picture or a schema would be helpful.
Any help would be appreciated.
I have the same issue, worked fine for about a month then started miss shifting when going into 5th gear (shifts into R half the time) a few days ago, now the problem includes gear 3 (shifts into R) and 4 (shifts into 2).
Now it more often shifts into incorrect gear than into correct.
It worked for a month.
I've been using my G25 + shifter since 2007. It still works today.
To say I'm shocked at the low quality of this Fanatec product would be a massive understatement. I'm in awe at how bad this is.
Jakub Wieczorkiewicz's solution of replacing the steel bolts holding down the two printed circuit boards (PCBs) with nylon bolts and isolating both PCBs with nylon washers underneath COMPLETELY RESOLVED MY SYMPTOMS. I performed the modification in July 2024, and as of December 2024, symptoms have never returned. I had tried many of the commonly cited solutions (different cables; ferrite beads; insulating PCB bottoms), none produced results for my symptoms.