with theese settings from this forum its great:Forza 6 IN GAME (advanced settings)Deadzone Inside - all at 0Deadzone Outside - all at 100 (* this gives you full dynamic range of the pedals)Vibration - 60FFB - 100Wheel Rotation - 900CSW SettingsSENS - AutoFFB - 25SHO - 40ABS - 40LIN - OffDEA - OffDRI - 1
Thanks for the feedback. Looking for a bigger wheel than my f1 for gt cars.
Just ran Iracing Nürburgring csw v2 F1 wheel WOW. Both A.C. and iracing versions are great. But I prefer iracings clean cut graphics at speed. Maybe its my old eyes.
@Matt Eseltine[The wheel has a significant amount of wobble if you take it and lift it a little bit after tightening the lock screw. There is no wobble rotationally. The wobble does not seem to affect driving at all. I have a service ticket submitted to Fanatec to see if the wobble is normal or if I have an issue to be resolved.]I think I had the same problem, the wheel forcing it forward on the top it look like it was loose.I remove the wheel and tighten the screws near the data connection of the wheel. Now I have played more time than before that and the wheel is very solid. Don't know if that is a defect on the assembly but is very bad because after some play with got worst.
Hello all,The bolts came loose on me twice so far. Fanatec advised me to apply Loctite. It was advised to loosen one at a time then Loctite it. I have yet to do this because they have not come loose a third time (yet). The first time I tightened them it only took a couple of hours to come loose. I played for about three hours last night and they seemed to be fine. Personally, I would like for Fanatec to come up with a better solution than having me Loctite the bolts myself but I also don't want to have to send the base in for repair/modification. For now I am going to see if the bolts come loose a third time then Loctite them. This is my first experience with Fanatec Products. I am very happy so far. My T300RS would always loose Ffb after a couple of hours of racing due to overheating. I do not have this problem with the Fanatec. Also, the V3 Pedals are so much better than anything I have used previously. It took me a while to get them mounted and adjusted to my preferences but now they are awesome.
But it don't work with some android devices:Important Notice to PS4 / XBox1 users with Android devices: Some android devices will not work with the new broadcast UDP stream interface. If you have one of these devices and you play Project CARS on PS4/XBox1 then you will not be able to use this or any other 3rd party companion app. This is a networking restriction imposed by the manufacturer of your Android device, it is outside the control of myself and Slightly Mad Studios. In the future I will likely develop a relaying application that can be run on a PC on the same network as your console which would capture the UDP stream and convert it into something that your Android device will accept, but that is currently not available yet. Project CARS PC users with one of these problematic android devices can use the Shared Memory interface via the pCars Transmitter which will work fine as it can use the direct address of your device instead of a broadcast. http://www.pocketplayground.net/pcars-dash.html
You can see that info in the site:http://www.projectcarsgame.com/apps.html- pCars Dash - reported working on PS4 with Ipad 2 / Iphone 6 / Iphone 4, probably will work also with X1:https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/pcars-dash/id675649462?ls=1&mt=8X1 update 7.0 relased estimated for today
Guys this is a dumb question but can this new 139 wheel rim be used without purchasing the hub? Is there any downside to doing this for Xbox one users?Thanks, and I'd love some more reviews
This is outrageous, I ordered my wheel during the black Friday
sale and I got a defective product. I understand that not a single product is
free from manufacturing defects. What is absurd is that I sent the wheel for
repair and it was sent back to me unrepaired. I sent the rim and base for
repair by strictly following Fanatec’s RMA process to the letter. The technical
issue is the same but accentuated!
I found no note inside the package indicating what was done
to fix the wheel. The only thing I found
was a sticky note attached to the Allen key and screw that come with the rim
that said something like “use key to assemble with P1 Rim”. Obviously I used
this said screw when I mounted the P1 rim from the beginning as instructed in
the quick start guide.
Over a month has passed since I received this bundle for the
first time. I emailed Fanatec the 29th and I still got no response. I
hope somebody within Fanatec will take this issue seriously, I am tremendously
Natalie Bissell said:
What exactly is the issue you are experiencing, perhaps we can all chip in and help you out
Basically there is a false contact in the data connector
pins between the P1 rim and Clubsport base. At first, the rim connected with
the base as long as no external force was added to the rim. After I got the
system back from Fanatec’s repair shop , the issue has worsened, I have to push
heavily the rim into the base to get connection, if I don’t, the rim/base do
not connect at all. With or without the collar screw the issue persists. There
is no visual damage in both male and female connectors.
Another day has passed and still no official response from