Automobilista 2 - need correct settings

Hi,

Automobilista 2 is released is steam.

Any official recommended settings for tuning menu and ingame ?

I personally own dd2 with 356 drivers, but I guess all wheel owners will need proper settings.

Comments

  • edited April 2

    Proper settings are what is right for you. I've been playing AMS2 through the beta stages and the FFB is constantly being revised and this will continue through the existing early access - current version is not full release.

    Some tips though - LFB in game helps even with DD2, I use 50 gain, 20 LFB. Wheel gain around 50, 15 natural damper, 5 inertia and friction. other settings to suit.

  • i was also looking for recommended settings. Using CSL elite. Currently using GAIN 55, LFB 25, FX 15. Feels great for P3 but seems to need some tweaking between cars. Hopefully that will get sorted when it leaves early access

  • changed it to 45 35 10 seems a bit more consistent

  • edited April 2

    I have played around with this some over the past couple of days and these are working for me for now on my DD1:

    S-AUTO (the most important setting, otherwise the DoR will not be set correctly for each car in game)

    FF-30

    L-ON

    ND-25

    NF-5

    NI-3

    I-6

    FFI-100

    F-100

    S-OFF

    D-100

    In game, I am using the default settings, which I think were 100, 0, 50, 10, but I didn't touch those.

    Be sure to calibrate your wheel rotation to 1080 in-game on a DD1/DD2.

    Also, depending on what kind of pedals you have, you may need to lower the brake force setting to avoid locking up.

  • How can I can AMS 2 in Fanalab? Or do I have to use the small screen on the base for now and create a setup with it?

  • Damn... the game doesn't allow to calibrate the wheel or the pedal :(

    Not sure what is going on... any ideas?

  • Where can we adjust the 1080 wheel rotation in game? I cannot find such option.

  • You just have to calibrate the wheel correctly in the controls menu. You will turn the wheel 1.5 times from center for the max rotation, then back to center and a 90 degree turn from center should read as 1080 on the calibration.

  • If you have problem with the game detecting your DD wheel or your paddle shifters in game, simply use the Custom wheel instead of the Fanatec preset, then everything works just fine.

  • Hi Joshua

    Please update your abreviations for the settings. I am unable to find a lot of them unless I guess.

    I have put mine below in the order they show on the DD1 PS4 base menu with the v347 driver firmware:

    S-AUTO = SEN, set to AUTO ?

    FFB = FF, set to 30 ?

    SHO = S ?

    ABS = you didn't mention that did you?

    FOR = F ?

    SPR = you didn't mention that did you?

    NDP = ND ?

    NFR = NF ?

    BFR = you didn't mention that did you ?

    FEI = FFI ?

  • OP has listed in the order they are on driver 352 and later

    FF-FFB

    L-Linearity

    ND-Natural Damper

    NF-Natural Friction

    NI-Natural Inertial

    I-Interpolation

    FFI-Force Feedback Intensity

    F-Force

    S-Spring

    D-Damper

  • Ok I have been adjusting a few settings and trying to get a proper feel for my DD2. As Gagaryn has already stated "Proper settings are what is right for you. I've been playing AMS2 through the beta stages and the FFB is constantly being revised and this will continue through the existing early access - current version is not full release.".

    But I can give you a place to start. Here are my settings using a 320mm wheel of my own design, mounted to a Porsche button box from Fanatec. Depending upon the weight of the wheel you choose to use or it's diameter your setting will need to be tweaked for your personal situation. I had these settings nearly tweaked out once but inadvertently overwrote them when I loaded a profile for another sim. Therefore I would suggest using another games profile and create one in there called AM2-yourname, so you can try different things but not lose your reference point. Change ONE setting at a time and try it out for at least a few full laps. If it 's not doing what you want change it back, look at the following suggestions, and try something else. I sincerely hope this helps.

    If you want more detail, lower your INT# or lower your NDP#

    If you want smoother FFB try using a higher INT# and then gradually raise your NDP# to smooth out finer details.

    Increasing your NDP# will conversely add some weighted feel to the wheel like adding wider tires would in a real car.

    If you feel the wheel weight is too light under low downforce or on straights increase the NFR#

    Your NIN# will help with feeling bumps and how the wheel behaves leaving a corner.

    Those adjustments will have far more effect on FFB feel than the rest so get those right first, and tweak the rest afterwards.

    INITIALLY: use the GAIN setting to set your preferred force amount before adjusting further.

    If it still does not give you a feeling of immersion I would suggest looking at your camera settings and getting the FOV correct for your screen(s)

    Proper FOV can affect how your brain processes the FFB your hands receive through the wheel.


    Here are my preliminary settings if you would like to try them.



  • You should try adding in some Low Force Boost. We are conditioned to think that we don't need it on Fanatec wheels but I m using in game 45 gain and 30 LFB on my DD2. With that you should be able to lower in game gain slightly (maybe) and slightly lower natural damper friction and inertia to around 20, 10, 5. Give it a shot and let me know how you find it. For me and a lot of guys on the Reiza early backer thread adding LFB is currently essential even on DD wheels to get some weight in the steering on the straights.

  • I did add a little amount 5-10 of low force boost and it makes the road and wheel a little more alive on my DD2. You feel the road grooves and imperfection a little better, which is more realistic then a perfectly flat surface with no details.

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