Porsche GT3 R wheel ITM and jolts

edited December 2020 in Steering Wheels


I currently have the DD2 and Formula V2 wheel and I would like to get the Porsche GT3 R wheel as well.

With my current setup I have random jolts of my DD2 and I have ITM on the DD2 enabled. I've read that a possible fix is to turn ITM on the DD2 off.

I wonder if it's possible with the 911 GT3 R Podium wheel to enable ITM on the wheel and turn it off on the base, so I get rid of the jolts. Is that possible? Or are the jolts still there if ITM on the wheel is enabled?


  • Yes, that's possible.

    Jolts are only caused by the DD OLED. It Doesnt matter which screen you have enabled in the BME.

  • Thank you Maurice. I will place my order this week. Just trying to decide if I'll get the suede or leather version :D

  • if you potentially have friends coming by and playing on your rig and you want something to last longer and doesn't wear much go for the leather.

    If you are driving on your own, use gloves and want more grip + the actually real deal used in the real cars go for the suede. The suede however requires more care and will wear rather fast.

  • I think I'll go with suede since it will be mainly used by me and I use gloves anyway. I saw that you can get the wheel separately, so if it's worn after 1 or 2 years, I can still get the leather version.

    My F1 v2 wheel with Alcantara is also still in good shape after 1 year of use with gloves.

  • My wheel arrived today and I gave it a quick to try it. The firmware updated correctly, but the Podium Button Module is having dropouts as soon as I go into a corner. When I flex the wheel very slightly upwards, the button module disconnects and reconnects. Is this there a way to solve this?

    Never had problems with my Formula V2 wheel + Podium Paddles.

  • retighten the screws and make sure the USB-C connection is properly plugged in and not loose.

  • I checked everything and it stays the same. The podium shifters keep working, but podium button module keep disconnecting al the time. The connection drops as soon as I turn the wheel with or lift the wheel the slightest bit as you can see in the bottom videos here. I'm quite sure there is either a bad connection inside the shaft of my DD2 or inside the Podium Hub. It only disconnects when there is flex between the shaft and podium hub. When I push the wheelbase shaft in all directions in front on the Podium Hub, it all keeps working.

    My Formula V2 steering wheel is working perfectly, but I guess that one is using less "bandwidth" since it has a simpler display.

  • That's more than unfortunate, one last thing you could check is the wheelside QR's screws, are the screws in the Podium hub itself all tight? the pins are all okay? I believe you have to contact support on this one...

  • The pins look all OK. I checked the screws around the screws and they are also fine.

    I will open a support ticket. I'm quite bummed by this so I hope it can be resolved easily. I saw a Youtube video of someone with the same problem and he had to send in the wheel and wheelbase multiple times before there was a solution (he couldn't race for 2 months). I don't want to go through the same process since simracing is my only hobby I can do during the lockdown over here :/

  • edited January 3

    Any possibility that you have overtightened the steering wheel bolts on the PBME and with the slightest extra pressure from flex movement gets disconnected because of internal board pressure?

    Have red another users post few months back that this was his issue.

  • No, I didn't tighten them very hard. Just enough.

    But I've losend them up (the wheel had 2mm of play) and the problem stays when I put some slight upwards pressure on the Podium Hub.

  • Bummer... please create a ticket for support through your account under the your product tab.

  • edited January 3

    Yesterday evening I bought KartKraft and played it with my Formula V2 wheel at pretty high forces, just like a real kart. I noticed the rev lights would drop sometime, but it was always in the same corner so I thought the game was the issue since its still prerelease.

    Now I just played some iRacing and every time I steer to the right, the rev lights go out on my Formula V2 wheel. But the gear OLED keeps working. The same thing happens in ACC.

    I'm starting to think the issue is inside my QR shaft on the wheel and it probably got worse from trying the Porsche wheel and the very high FFB setting (18nm) of KartKraft.

    EDIT: I removed Formula V2 wheel from the DD2 and mounted it again and now it's fine again. I hope it stays this way.

  • I got a new shaft from Fanatec and I have been using the wheel for the past hour without issues.

    Now I'm trying to find out how I can disable ITM on the wheelbase but keep it on the wheel. It looks like these 2 can't be set independently?

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