Anyone Remove Factory Podium Button Module Endurance Stickers?
Rob Cohen
Member
Has anyone tried to remove the factory stickers with the yellow lines, etc?
I think it would look cooler without them for an all black carbon fiber look.
(I'd leave the rotary encoder portion, so they stay visible.)
Before I attempt it, I wanted to check with you guys.
Alternately, I could buy a sticker to cover them up. Aside from the expense, it seems like a shame to cover up the carbon fiber with a sticker.
Comments
I've always found the original look rather gaudy. The clean carbon fiber look is a definite improvement, in my book.
I don’t believe it are stickers. Looking up close it looks more like it is painted.
That's a good point. I don't know if they are stickers. That's one reason I was curious if anyone else has tried it before I risk messing mine up.
If it is paint, the sticker covers make the most sense!
Looking closer, I think you're right. Paint, not a sticker.
Made some mockups with the GT World Challenge wheel:
Yes, it is paint (with a primer base underneath), not a sticker.
I bought a pack of exacto blades, removing the carbon fiber plate was easy... 3 hours later I had a clean plate! It is certainly not perfect, there are some scratches but I see none of them with the rim mounted. I much prefer the result, very happy.
Looks nice!
So you removed the carbon fiber plate before scratching the paint off? Why? How did you get it off? I guess you just left the white part of the rotary encoders intact?
Also, how did you get the button caps on? I got the button cap kit, but they wouldn't fit over the existing caps? I assume you have to pull the existing caps off? Did you figure out a good way to do that?
Are you happy with how the new caps feel? The original ones do have a nice feel to them.
I'll try to answer all your questions! 😁
So you removed the carbon fiber plate before scratching the paint off? Why? How did you get it off? I guess you just left the white part of the rotary encoders intact? It seemed easier to remove the plate yes. Working on the plate is just easier than holding the whole module, you can put it flat on a table; otherwise the buttons and the edges of the endurance module will get in your way. And removing the paint makes quite a lot of dust: better to have all the electronics away! I first removed both encoders (you just need to pull them), then there are small screws (don't remember how many) and you can pull the plate without touching the buttons. And yes, the white part for the encoders is the original paint: that part is not perfect, it was hard to be precise here. I first did the right side, the left side looks better... But you need the white to be able to see which number is set (numbers on the encoders are black)
Also, how did you get the button caps on? I got the button cap kit, but they wouldn't fit over the existing caps? I assume you have to pull the existing caps off? Did you figure out a good way to do that? Yes, you need to remove the existing caps: I just used my nails, and pulled the caps. Not the easiest but not a big deal either. I think you can also use the buttons without any caps: it will be smaller but their shape is rather pleasant.
Are you happy with how the new caps feel? The original ones do have a nice feel to them. The caps with stickers have a flat surface on top, with a rather sharp edge, and are using a hard plastic; so you loose the nice feel of the original ones unfortunately. Not a big deal for me: I quite like having a pictogram on the button rather than a sticker next to the button. I also heard the original ones are pretty fragile and break quite easily; that's what convinced me to get the extra set with the wheel (to avoid a separated postage). The wheel is only 4 months old so I can't really tell how durable the new ones are.
I'm thinking about ordering the same parts with a different rim: I will do the same again if I go this way for my next wheel...
Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions! Very helpful!
In case anyone else is shopping for this wheel, compared to a ClubSport RS, it's about double the weight and quite a bit deeper. On my DD1, I actually really like the extra weight, after turning up the FFB a bit. It feels more natural. The extra controls are nice to have, and they're easier to reach. Compared to the RS, the stitching is a bit rougher on my hands (or is that the extra FFB?) The wheel did rattle sometimes, so I had to use my locking pin. I'm not sure if that's inherent in the wheel (weight? depth?) or an unlucky QR1 adapter. That wasn't an issue with the RS.
and so it begins