Are you using the retaining screw on the QR1? I've got one and the black collar knocked on the screw really badly. I had to put a bit of small silicon hose around the screw the stop the knocking so could this be the issue? You can also wrap electrical tape around it to prevent it.
Please give my current settings a try, I’ve owned my podium sine 2018 and have spent numerous hours messing with the set up for GT7.
defo worth a try, see below
sen - Auto
ffb - 50
ff scale - peak
ndp - 42
nat fri - off
nat inertia - off
ffb interpol - off
fe intensity - 40
force effect str - 40
spring - 100
dpr effect - 100
in game settings are
controller sens - 5
torque - 5
ffb sens - 8
with the above settings on this weeks daily race C, I’ve set a 1,25.500 but I rekon if I spent a couple of hours lapping I could get it down another half a second 👍👍
i wish more ppl with podiums would post their settings, I’ve reduced the intensity and strength to 40 to try and mimic the output on the GT DD Pro, then messed about with other settings and in game settings.
Probably the best I’ve ever felt it on any Gran Turismo game 👌
Also not sure if anyone’s noticed but if you’ve got your controller sens on 10, good luck getting to the end of race C without changing your tyres.
I struggle on 10, the right front is history on lap 12. Controller sens on 5, I’ve got at least 1 a quarter of wear left on the right front at end of race, so can push right till the end 👌
Why are you driving a Podium DD1 with just 4 Nm? For that kind of strength a DD1 is overkill and a GT DD Pro 5 Nm version would be enough.
Also your FEI setting is way too low, it introduces latency and kills a lot of FFB effects. Its better to use a higher FEI setting and smooth out the FFB with higher INT settings as that way the FFB gets just smoothened without completely killing details.
Also the lack of support on the podium with regards to GT7 settings just makes people fiddle looking for better settings.
you say there is no better settings due to the game FFB, if I use the recommended settings from this thread I can’t get my time under 1.27 on this weeks daily C 🤷🏻♂️ the car is a handful to drive, my botty is twitching when cornering and I’m all over the road.
Even though it is "ripping your arms out of your sockets" its still only 4 Nm. Easy formula: Your base could do 20 Nm when FFB Strength and Force Strength is set both to 100. You have set your FFB strength to just 50% which already limits the max motor output to 10 Nm and on top of that you then also use a FOR setting of just 40 which then further limits your motor to 4 Nm (20*50%*40%=4).
Maybe you hit the nail on the head there Maurice…….
Would Sony use the 5nm DD Pro as the benchmark for the Fanatec FFB from game to wheel ?
If yes, this would explain why dialling back the settings on a podium gives a more realistic feeling and control or more what Sony would expect you to feel.
I cannot drive in GT7 with what in theory is correct settings, ive had FEI and FFs on 100% for years, always been a B ranked driver.
A week ago, I put FEI and FFs on 40/50%, turned FF from 25/30% to 50%, its been a game changer for me… I’m not fighting with the wheel any more, i can hold it lightly without worrying about it snatching out of my handson corner exits etc, I’m having a far more enjoyable experience 😬
The problem with Gran Turismo is that to be fast you just have to drive with less fidelity. Clipping is the way to go. The less you feel the faster you go in most case scenario.
I have heard many times " When i have less curb feeling my attention isn't distracted and i can point to the exit better''
There are people in Gran Turismo that when they feel as much as possible they can not even drive fast. And of course this has nothing to do with the amount of force in Nm.
Stephen Sims:
The thing with the Podium wheelbase is that because of the hevier axle in such low torque it can not give that fine detail as the CSL DD/DDpro which has much lighter axle and much less damping because of this also. Why would some one buy a 20 nm wheelbase to use the 10% of it's power output when there is such a huge price difference ? I understand people if they can they will do it but it is out o point.
i will try to give you the same settings as yours but with much more fidellity at about the same 2 Nm ( because 4nm is the output of your wheelbase but you have about the half of this when the torque value is 5 in game )
Try them. You have such a powerful wheelbase and such headroom. It seems that you might not have understand what every setting is doing.
No offence just trying to help you or some other that reads this thread. Just like you are trying to do.
So :
sen - Auto
ffb - 100
ff scale - peak
ndp - 42 ( i would lower the value down to 35 )
nat fri - off ( i would defenatly raise the value up to 5)
nat inertia - off ( if you drive through a very light steering wheel you can raise the value up to 3)
ffb interpol - off ( you should raise this value up to 6 or a bit more when in use with FEI at 100 this will result to much more road feeling )
fe intensity - 40 ( there is no need to have so low this value, all the way up to 100 is the way to go and you can raise the interpolation setting to value 6 or maybe a bit more )
force effect str - 100
spring - 100 ( what ever value here it does not matter since it is not in use from the developer )
dpr effect - 100 ( what ever value here it does not matter since it is not in use from the developer )
in-game settings:
controller sens - 5 ( you can try 4 it is more direct with what is going on in your ''virtual steering column" the value (4) is right in the "middle" and there is a reason for this, but in 5 it fine also for most cases )
torque - 2 (4nm) / 1 (2nm) ( with your ffb at 100 and ff scale peak and Force effect strength 100, you have the 20 nm of your wheelbase down to approximately 20% when setting is 2 and 10% when this setting is 1. The final torque output should be 4nm at 20% and 2nm at 10% but with much much less clipping. If you want to raise/lower the torque output (by 0.X nm it is wiser tto do it through the Force Effect strength in your wheel setting menu to avoid clipping as much as you can.
ffb sens - 1 ( you can raise up to value 2 to enhance the low end effects a bit more )
Also Maurice knows way much more technical data / specs / or what ever, from the tester perspective that he has and he is always trying to help us all.
Maurice Böschen i supose you have the CS DD already in your hands, so i have to ask you:
Just thought I’d say this because no doubt there are other people reading my post thinking doh why didn’t you just buy a GT DD ?
I probably would have done so if they were available in 2018 but they were not released at that point. On GT Sport the podium was even harder to get right, tried it recently with my GT7 settings and was all over the shop 🙈
There is no such thing as better or worst settings. In the end it is all about what suits you better aka personal preference.
But according to the owner's manual every setting has a purpose and some acceptable limits.
Even Aris Vasilakos ( "Head of Vehicle & Handling R&D" at KUNOS Simulazioni, creators of netKar PRO, Ferrari Virtual Academy, Assetto Corsa and Assetto Corsa Competizione ) in his videos says: " Always max out your wheelbase settings in term of power and then adjust through the in-game tourqe setting (Gain/Power/Torque, etc) to avoid clipping usually about 75% of this in game setting is the max in order to have clean signal" . That occurs in every title in every platform. Only in Gran Turismo for some reason the ffb signal is clipping almost in every in-game Torque setting value. Even if you have it at value 1. So the lower this setting the cleaner the signal you have.
What i mean is that some people without knowing the fundamental characteristics they cannot have a propper experience. But in a game as Gran Turismo people are used to play more with what they see than with combination of what they feel also, because almost everyone starts with a game pad. Gran Turismo does not have a propper ffb to help also .
I try to have a realistic experience as much as possible through my settings. From my personal experience i feel that in order to drive acceptable even with a Gr3 car, i should go no more than value 3 in game torque setting. Above 3 it starts clipping mid corner really easy.
So just check my recomendations i gave Stephen but with NDP 30 because of the heave steering wheel. You do not need that much damping.
Just to clarify i am here in this forum since 2017 and i am constantly reading almost everything in here. I am not an expert i just try to learn as much as i can and help where ever i can .
Kind of confused with the DD1 setting for FFS (Peak or Linear). I've been running my DD1 with GT7 at 75% FFB and FFS on Peak. All recommended settings I've seen say to use FFS on Peak. However, I've also seen that with a powerful direct drive wheelbase, to use Linear. So, which is the proper setting on a DD1, is it Linear or Peak?
Currently trying 100% FFB on the DD1 with FFS on Linear. I think I like it better than 75% and Peak. They seem very similar, I don’t know. 🤷♂️
Maurice or maybe Andreas (you guys know this stuff much more than me), could you please let me know your thoughts on my question above regarding Linear or Peak? Thank you.
I am not sure if there is any real use scenario deference though.
I can understand that "linear mode" also is consistent stable torque without overheating the motor , aka holding torque, where in "peak mode" the motor reaches full power in 100% ffb (20nm) but not continuously.
There should be also mentioned in the manual.
You can also see the exact max nm in the control panel in tuning menu on your pc if you have one of the latest drivers.
These don't feel too bad. Thanks for sharing. I haven't played in about a year as well and jumped back in hoping the FFB would be great but the rubber band feeling on corners is still there. trying to figure out how to feel the grip in the tires still. ugh!
Yeah, I've tried everything to get rid of that feeling in corners but to no avail. Been hoping they'd add support for the SPR setting on the wheelbase as that would help but I don't think they ever will.
Podium Racing Wheel F1 (includes use of torque key)
Tuning Menu Settings:
FF 30
FFS Peak
NDP 40
NFR 15
NIN 20
INT 20
FEI 80
FOR 60
SPR OFF
DPR 100
In-Game Settings:
Assist Settings:
Countersteering Assistance: Off
Controller Settings:
Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5
Force Feedback Sensitivity: 10
All since the latest Gran Turismo Update 1.41
Previous settings did not allow the wheel to oscillate while vehicle was parked, BUT oscillations would occur during high velocities on straight sections of tracks.
Largely in part due to the Force Effect Strength setting at 80 and Force Effect Intensity at 100. Lowering these values causes the wheel to feel somewhat 'light' during car rotation in turns and/or riding over sausage type curbs. To combat the 'light' feeling during these conditions I increased the NDP to 40 and Natural Inertia to 20.
I realize the FFB Interpolation setting seems really high, BUT it really helps to make the wheel feel like a steering wheel being rotated and turning RUBBER ON TARMAC sensation.
I used to have this setting at 1 because putting it to 2 would over smoothen the FFB to almost nothing (meaning not just smoothening but also becoming a cut off filter so to speak by flattening some smaller amplitude signals), BUT it seems now the resolution of the FFB Interpolation adjustments has been altered. (this was while having the in game Max Torque setting at 3) At the same time it appears/feels that some of the smoothening has been split to the Force Effect Intensity setting as well.
You see... my personal understanding of Interpolation of signals (such as square, sawtooth, stair step, etc). The interpolation is there to alter the signal/s to a more curvy/sinusoidal appearing signal. fucking integrals
I can only repeat myself from months ago: You should highly consider to sell your P DD1 and get a GT DD Pro 5Nm Base. You are using just 3.6 Nm with your current settings which makes a DD1 completely overkill and a GT DD Pro would be absolutely sufficient for your strength needs. By doing this you would also make some money as you can sell the DD1 for more than what a GT DD Pro Base costs...
Comments
Are you using the retaining screw on the QR1? I've got one and the black collar knocked on the screw really badly. I had to put a bit of small silicon hose around the screw the stop the knocking so could this be the issue? You can also wrap electrical tape around it to prevent it.
Yeah using the screw it seems to come from inside the base. Will try tape on the screw later.
Hi Peter
Please give my current settings a try, I’ve owned my podium sine 2018 and have spent numerous hours messing with the set up for GT7.
defo worth a try, see below
sen - Auto
ffb - 50
ff scale - peak
ndp - 42
nat fri - off
nat inertia - off
ffb interpol - off
fe intensity - 40
force effect str - 40
spring - 100
dpr effect - 100
in game settings are
controller sens - 5
torque - 5
ffb sens - 8
with the above settings on this weeks daily race C, I’ve set a 1,25.500 but I rekon if I spent a couple of hours lapping I could get it down another half a second 👍👍
i wish more ppl with podiums would post their settings, I’ve reduced the intensity and strength to 40 to try and mimic the output on the GT DD Pro, then messed about with other settings and in game settings.
Probably the best I’ve ever felt it on any Gran Turismo game 👌
Also not sure if anyone’s noticed but if you’ve got your controller sens on 10, good luck getting to the end of race C without changing your tyres.
I struggle on 10, the right front is history on lap 12. Controller sens on 5, I’ve got at least 1 a quarter of wear left on the right front at end of race, so can push right till the end 👌
Why are you driving a Podium DD1 with just 4 Nm? For that kind of strength a DD1 is overkill and a GT DD Pro 5 Nm version would be enough.
Also your FEI setting is way too low, it introduces latency and kills a lot of FFB effects. Its better to use a higher FEI setting and smooth out the FFB with higher INT settings as that way the FFB gets just smoothened without completely killing details.
I have no idea Maurice, all I know is it feels correct and I can control the car 🤷🏻♂️
im only 1.4 seconds off the fastest in the world and know I can be less than a second as fast as them. That’s good enuff for me at the min.
you say I’m only 4nm but if I turn in game torque to 10, no way on earth is that only 4nm, it’s ripping my arms out my sockets 🤷🏻♂️
Also the lack of support on the podium with regards to GT7 settings just makes people fiddle looking for better settings.
you say there is no better settings due to the game FFB, if I use the recommended settings from this thread I can’t get my time under 1.27 on this weeks daily C 🤷🏻♂️ the car is a handful to drive, my botty is twitching when cornering and I’m all over the road.
Even though it is "ripping your arms out of your sockets" its still only 4 Nm. Easy formula: Your base could do 20 Nm when FFB Strength and Force Strength is set both to 100. You have set your FFB strength to just 50% which already limits the max motor output to 10 Nm and on top of that you then also use a FOR setting of just 40 which then further limits your motor to 4 Nm (20*50%*40%=4).
All you feel in corners will be clipping.
So why would I be faster if all I’m feeling is clipping ?
doesn’t make sense, puts the settings to what in theory is correct and be slow
or
set them to clipping and be faster 🤷🏻♂️
no brainer for me, I threw the theory of settings out the window in 2020 and thought I’ll set it to what makes me fast and be done with it 😉
This weeks daily Race C, for GR4 all ive changed is…
FEi - 50
FEs -50
interpolation - 3
Ive always been ranked B, yesterday I hit rank A and was put in a lobby with the top you tube streamers 😯
Maybe you hit the nail on the head there Maurice…….
Would Sony use the 5nm DD Pro as the benchmark for the Fanatec FFB from game to wheel ?
If yes, this would explain why dialling back the settings on a podium gives a more realistic feeling and control or more what Sony would expect you to feel.
I cannot drive in GT7 with what in theory is correct settings, ive had FEI and FFs on 100% for years, always been a B ranked driver.
A week ago, I put FEI and FFs on 40/50%, turned FF from 25/30% to 50%, its been a game changer for me… I’m not fighting with the wheel any more, i can hold it lightly without worrying about it snatching out of my handson corner exits etc, I’m having a far more enjoyable experience 😬
The problem with Gran Turismo is that to be fast you just have to drive with less fidelity. Clipping is the way to go. The less you feel the faster you go in most case scenario.
I have heard many times " When i have less curb feeling my attention isn't distracted and i can point to the exit better''
There are people in Gran Turismo that when they feel as much as possible they can not even drive fast. And of course this has nothing to do with the amount of force in Nm.
Stephen Sims:
The thing with the Podium wheelbase is that because of the hevier axle in such low torque it can not give that fine detail as the CSL DD/DDpro which has much lighter axle and much less damping because of this also. Why would some one buy a 20 nm wheelbase to use the 10% of it's power output when there is such a huge price difference ? I understand people if they can they will do it but it is out o point.
i will try to give you the same settings as yours but with much more fidellity at about the same 2 Nm ( because 4nm is the output of your wheelbase but you have about the half of this when the torque value is 5 in game )
Try them. You have such a powerful wheelbase and such headroom. It seems that you might not have understand what every setting is doing.
No offence just trying to help you or some other that reads this thread. Just like you are trying to do.
So :
sen - Auto
ffb - 100
ff scale - peak
ndp - 42 ( i would lower the value down to 35 )
nat fri - off ( i would defenatly raise the value up to 5)
nat inertia - off ( if you drive through a very light steering wheel you can raise the value up to 3)
ffb interpol - off ( you should raise this value up to 6 or a bit more when in use with FEI at 100 this will result to much more road feeling )
fe intensity - 40 ( there is no need to have so low this value, all the way up to 100 is the way to go and you can raise the interpolation setting to value 6 or maybe a bit more )
force effect str - 100
spring - 100 ( what ever value here it does not matter since it is not in use from the developer )
dpr effect - 100 ( what ever value here it does not matter since it is not in use from the developer )
in-game settings:
controller sens - 5 ( you can try 4 it is more direct with what is going on in your ''virtual steering column" the value (4) is right in the "middle" and there is a reason for this, but in 5 it fine also for most cases )
torque - 2 (4nm) / 1 (2nm) ( with your ffb at 100 and ff scale peak and Force effect strength 100, you have the 20 nm of your wheelbase down to approximately 20% when setting is 2 and 10% when this setting is 1. The final torque output should be 4nm at 20% and 2nm at 10% but with much much less clipping. If you want to raise/lower the torque output (by 0.X nm it is wiser tto do it through the Force Effect strength in your wheel setting menu to avoid clipping as much as you can.
ffb sens - 1 ( you can raise up to value 2 to enhance the low end effects a bit more )
Also Maurice knows way much more technical data / specs / or what ever, from the tester perspective that he has and he is always trying to help us all.
Maurice Böschen i supose you have the CS DD already in your hands, so i have to ask you:
😁Is this the ONE ?😁
Will give the settings a try tomorrow and let you know how I get on 👍🏼
Hy guys, i have also a Podium and the heavy porsche wheel. I see that here are realy some professionals!
So you think the setup from Andreas Andritsos are one of the best in combination with the F1 wheel, right?
Andreas Andritsos, can you give me also a setup for Podium + porsche wheel? i would like to test it today, now i´am in the office.
Sorry i ´am a beginer with fanatec, and i´am a little bit overwhelmed with the setup.
Thanks. HatzerDuke
Just thought I’d say this because no doubt there are other people reading my post thinking doh why didn’t you just buy a GT DD ?
I probably would have done so if they were available in 2018 but they were not released at that point. On GT Sport the podium was even harder to get right, tried it recently with my GT7 settings and was all over the shop 🙈
so you mean the DD Pro ist faster than the podium in GT7?
There is no such thing as better or worst settings. In the end it is all about what suits you better aka personal preference.
But according to the owner's manual every setting has a purpose and some acceptable limits.
Even Aris Vasilakos ( "Head of Vehicle & Handling R&D" at KUNOS Simulazioni, creators of netKar PRO, Ferrari Virtual Academy, Assetto Corsa and Assetto Corsa Competizione ) in his videos says: " Always max out your wheelbase settings in term of power and then adjust through the in-game tourqe setting (Gain/Power/Torque, etc) to avoid clipping usually about 75% of this in game setting is the max in order to have clean signal" . That occurs in every title in every platform. Only in Gran Turismo for some reason the ffb signal is clipping almost in every in-game Torque setting value. Even if you have it at value 1. So the lower this setting the cleaner the signal you have.
What i mean is that some people without knowing the fundamental characteristics they cannot have a propper experience. But in a game as Gran Turismo people are used to play more with what they see than with combination of what they feel also, because almost everyone starts with a game pad. Gran Turismo does not have a propper ffb to help also .
I try to have a realistic experience as much as possible through my settings. From my personal experience i feel that in order to drive acceptable even with a Gr3 car, i should go no more than value 3 in game torque setting. Above 3 it starts clipping mid corner really easy.
So just check my recomendations i gave Stephen but with NDP 30 because of the heave steering wheel. You do not need that much damping.
Just to clarify i am here in this forum since 2017 and i am constantly reading almost everything in here. I am not an expert i just try to learn as much as i can and help where ever i can .
nice man!!!! i will test it today... Many THX for your feedback!!!!
Thanks Stephen, I'll give the settings a go. Appreciate the feedback.
Hello guys.
Haven't play for about a year, what settings right now are best for DD Pro 8nm / standart wheel?
As I see recommended settings are outdated?
Big thanks for help!
You can try mine if you want.
FFB 100
PEAK
NDP 10
NFR 15
NIN 10
INT 5
FEI 80
FOR 100
In game 6 & 3
Kind of confused with the DD1 setting for FFS (Peak or Linear). I've been running my DD1 with GT7 at 75% FFB and FFS on Peak. All recommended settings I've seen say to use FFS on Peak. However, I've also seen that with a powerful direct drive wheelbase, to use Linear. So, which is the proper setting on a DD1, is it Linear or Peak?
Currently trying 100% FFB on the DD1 with FFS on Linear. I think I like it better than 75% and Peak. They seem very similar, I don’t know. 🤷♂️
Maurice or maybe Andreas (you guys know this stuff much more than me), could you please let me know your thoughts on my question above regarding Linear or Peak? Thank you.
In terms of raw force:
75% peak = 100% linear = 15nm
I am not sure if there is any real use scenario deference though.
I can understand that "linear mode" also is consistent stable torque without overheating the motor , aka holding torque, where in "peak mode" the motor reaches full power in 100% ffb (20nm) but not continuously.
There should be also mentioned in the manual.
You can also see the exact max nm in the control panel in tuning menu on your pc if you have one of the latest drivers.
These don't feel too bad. Thanks for sharing. I haven't played in about a year as well and jumped back in hoping the FFB would be great but the rubber band feeling on corners is still there. trying to figure out how to feel the grip in the tires still. ugh!
Yeah, I've tried everything to get rid of that feeling in corners but to no avail. Been hoping they'd add support for the SPR setting on the wheelbase as that would help but I don't think they ever will.
Thank you for these settings!
I'm using the DD1 with F1 wheel. Because I've had an arm injury, I've been using the wheel with low-torque settings for about six months now.
Yesterday I've decided that I could try to increase the ffb and with your settings I can increase them in-game.
I'm starting with in-game torque-setting 2 and from what I've experienced yesterday these settings seem to fit my needs. (I'm no professional though)
Planning on increasing the in-game torque along the way. :)
MAIN:
FW: v3.0.1
HW : v3
MOTOR:
FW: v3.0.0
HW: v3
ACV: v3
Podium Racing Wheel F1 (includes use of torque key)
Tuning Menu Settings:
In-Game Settings:
All since the latest Gran Turismo Update 1.41
After acquiring the NSX CONCEPT-GT '16 vehicle...
MAIN:
FW: v3.0.1
HW : v3
MOTOR:
FW: v3.0.0
HW: v3
ACV: v3
Podium Racing Wheel F1 (includes use of torque key)
Tuning Menu Settings:
In-Game Settings:
All since the latest Gran Turismo Update 1.41
Previous settings did not allow the wheel to oscillate while vehicle was parked, BUT oscillations would occur during high velocities on straight sections of tracks.
Largely in part due to the Force Effect Strength setting at 80 and Force Effect Intensity at 100. Lowering these values causes the wheel to feel somewhat 'light' during car rotation in turns and/or riding over sausage type curbs. To combat the 'light' feeling during these conditions I increased the NDP to 40 and Natural Inertia to 20.
I realize the FFB Interpolation setting seems really high, BUT it really helps to make the wheel feel like a steering wheel being rotated and turning RUBBER ON TARMAC sensation.
I used to have this setting at 1 because putting it to 2 would over smoothen the FFB to almost nothing (meaning not just smoothening but also becoming a cut off filter so to speak by flattening some smaller amplitude signals), BUT it seems now the resolution of the FFB Interpolation adjustments has been altered. (this was while having the in game Max Torque setting at 3) At the same time it appears/feels that some of the smoothening has been split to the Force Effect Intensity setting as well.
You see... my personal understanding of Interpolation of signals (such as square, sawtooth, stair step, etc). The interpolation is there to alter the signal/s to a more curvy/sinusoidal appearing signal. fucking integrals
I can only repeat myself from months ago: You should highly consider to sell your P DD1 and get a GT DD Pro 5Nm Base. You are using just 3.6 Nm with your current settings which makes a DD1 completely overkill and a GT DD Pro would be absolutely sufficient for your strength needs. By doing this you would also make some money as you can sell the DD1 for more than what a GT DD Pro Base costs...