Clubsport v2.5 has lost strength and feedback in iRacing

Hi folks -

My 3 week old Clubsport v2.5 has already started acting up.

Was great initially - could feel loss of traction at front-end which helped a lot with trail braking. Strength was lots of fun too.

As of yesterday, it's gone completely limp. Numb. Very little feeling and much reduced strength. I didn't change any settings in iRacing, nor did I update drivers or firmware.

Settings:

PC Driver: 356

Wheelbase Firmware: 669

Wheelbase Motor Firmware: 22

It seems a little louder than before, like there's some audible slack on a change of direction that wasn't there before.

Thoughts?

Comments

  • edited June 2020

    Driver 356 is for Podium bases only, try 365

  • Kyle StephensKyle Stephens Member
    edited June 2020

    Product page for the Clubsport 2.5 lists 328 and 311 so I downgraded to 328. Same issue.

    Could be wrong, but it seems hardware related - when I ride curbs, I can hear a noise that I didn't hear before. Like there is some slack inside the motor or something.

    Also, not sure if this is normal but there seems to be some lateral play in the wheel (may be normal, may be unrelated - but I'm just looking at everything now because I only have this wheel 3 weeks and this experience is tremendously disappointing ! )

    Turn the sound up:


  • Kyle StephensKyle Stephens Member
    edited June 2020

    Update: Fan seems to be working extra hard even though it's well ventilated (as you can see from video). The vibration on the rim itself seems to be a bit noisier than before and it is also weaker and not as smooth.

    There is an audible sound when I run over curbs and the FFB is not smooth as it had been before.

  • Kyle StephensKyle Stephens Member
    edited June 2020

    I've captured some videos illustrating how the wheel has become both jerky (with slack) and very noisy. I'd come to it from the Logitech G29 so it was initially remarkable how much of an improvement it was over the Logitech - smooth and quiet. Now it's... well... listen for yourself:


  • I just had something very similar. Was playing iRacing, doing 3x 15 minute races, and in the middle of the last one in a corner it suddenly lost strength. Everything was so easy and numb. I haven‘t yet checked for the noises though, but it really made a difference. I wonder what happened there.

  • Did you ever find a solution for this. I have also been driving with CSW 2.5 for about three weeks. Yesterday mid race while cornering on a curb suddenly the FFB lost half of it's strength. The MX-5 feels like driving on ice. I can feel the bumps and notches while driving but it almost feels like the base resistance of turning the wheel is missing.

    Wheel base is not hot. Problem did not go away overnight so not heat issue.

    From the iRacing widget I can see the FFB going up to 0.500 in the turns, but I can still drive with one finger.

    It was working perfectly up until now.


    driver: 373

    wheelbase fw: 674

    wheelbase motor fw: 22

  • In my case the correct startup order of the devices seem to fix the problem. If I first power up the wheelbase and wait until it has finished the automatic calibration and only then boot up the computer, the ffb is normal. When not following this start up order the ffb sometimes is weak.

  • Except now the problem came back and correct boot order does not help.

  • I noticed the wobble on mine was due to the safety screw coming loose. Retightening did the trick. This may also solve the ffb problem because the pins are less loose.

  • The following seems to help:

    1. Open File Explorer -> This PC -> Computer tab -> Open Settings -> Devices - Find FANATEC Wheel base under Other devices - Right Click - Remove device
    2. Power down wheel
    3. Restart computer
    4. Power on wheel - should see a popup saying something like "Windows is setting up you new device Fanatec…."


  • R .R . Member

    Hi all,

    I had a similar issue and I discovered that the problem was a bad (really bad) contact between the main board and the driver board.

    In my case, the white wire (+5V) caused the problem, loss of ffb and sometimes made start button red leds blinking.

    I replaced the original cable tie, separating the power (the bigger wires) and the 7 pin connectors to avoid the impact of the vibrations and forcing the contact and right now is smooth as never before!

    If it can help, remove the back cover, power on the base+wheel and after the centering slightly move the wires and see if the problem appears again. You don't need to be in a game to check it. Be careful that you need to keep the lateral fan connected (not the one on the back cover) else it will not start.

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