Screw in quick release
Abdel Belhadj
Member
Hello everyone.
Can you tell me if I have to fix this screw or it is not obligatory?
Thanks very much
Abdel Belhadj
Member
Hello everyone.
Can you tell me if I have to fix this screw or it is not obligatory?
Thanks very much
Comments
It's purely optional.
Thanks a lot
If you don't want to have any problems related to pin bend in future, I suggest you better use this skrew.
bending pins are not causes by not using the optional fixation screw of the metal QR1.
It's not mandatory, yes, but put it on anyway and you're not gonna lose it. 🤷
Ciao!
My QR1 is moving a lot when there are forces from the right side of FFB. I can see how it gets open a little. Also there is a bad knocking sound in that moment. It definitely should have some bad influence on pins. I put the safty screw and now its ok and safe. Unfurtunately my d-pad dont work anymore. The last owner didn't use the safe screw so I don't know it that cause the problem. Somethimes the d-pad shows life but only for few laps.
Knocking on wood as I type this...
I recently replaced the plastic QR1Lite on my McLaren wheel rim with the metal QR1. The difference was night and day. I am way more confident with the wheel than I was with the QR1L and all of it's slipping, clicking and creaking. I am definitely glad that I got the metal QR1.
Truthfully, I was holding out for the QR2, but the QR1L on my McLaren wheel progressively gotten worse with the movements. It was at the point where I stopped driving with the wheel rim, so I didn't end up with a reason to contact Fanatec about repairing the wheel rim. Seeing that the QR2 is practically vaporware, I went with something that would arrive within a week.
As for the screw (more knuckles hitting wood), I haven't used it yet. There seems to be no issues with the quick release and my CSL-DD. I'll keep an eye out for any funkiness, but so far the metal QR has been rock solid.
I did the same and yeah it is night and day. I had tried several methods to reducing the speaking and movement but finally bit the bullet and bought the metal QR. I did put the screw in - just to make sure everything is tight, and frankly as I only have one wheel, a QR doesn't really make that much sense :) It's simply another mechanical connection to reduce play.
I also just got Fanatec kit this week, and have also had issues making the McLaren wheel and QR1 lite unusable. Switching the metal QR1 to the McLaren wheel seems to have made all the issues (FFB dropouts, buttons not working requiring wheel reboot) go away.
It sounds like the QR1 lite is not fit for purpose.
Did anyone manage to get Support to acknowledge this and assist with the upgrade costs, or anything else helpful? At the moment they are asking for photos of the QR1 Lite pins...
As far as trying to get Fanatec Support to assist with replacing the QR1L, I didn't because the one I use didn't fail. I preemptively replaced it, so the costs were 100% on me.
I do know, that going forward, the metal QR1 is required for any wheel I get. This may not be a problem because the R330 Universal Hub combo comes with the QR1, and that is my next and final steering wheel I will purchase from Fanatec. Wheel rims from then on will be coming from other manufacturers.
Thanks William.
I did not mount nor have used my DD Pro Wheel rim before getting a new metal QR1, right out of the box the "(put whatever description you see fit for the plastic QR here)" plastic QR has been replaced with a metal QR1.
And yes, like @William Otis the cost has been 100% on me, I decided not to run/play even 5 seconds with the original "(put whatever description you see fit for the plastic QR here)" plastic QR.
It's so inadequate and "cheap" that hurts. 😅
Ciaooo!
Thanks Alberto, that's pretty much exactly my conclusion too. I wish I had disovered this before choosing it as an option. They shoudl really just scrap the plastic one and sell the proper one with it!
Support are offering to warranty swap the wheel, even though I've told them the wheel is fine! 🤔