My V3:s are connected to CSL DD and they dont store the min value for brake calibration. I have to redo it everytime I open comp.
There is an old and small PC App, called Diview, which allows you to calibrate any axis recognized on a PC, and keeps the settings.
It is an executable .exe file and should not be installed.
It keeps the Fanatec software settings, changes only the start, end and center point, so I set the load cell to 80% with the Fanatec software and only set the initial brake gap to 6% with Diview.
The possibility of calibrating a central point is interesting. If you use a round steering wheel, you can improve the pedal clutch, with a slower stroke at the beginning and a firmer release at the end.
There were other apps of this type, but they are no longer compatible with Windows 10. This one continues to work and I always use it.
Cheers, will try.
Was wondering why I was so slow. Now the same happened to the gas pedal it was at 90%. Well now I know how much slower I am with 10% reduction. :) Try this Diview tonight. Just stupid that I have to use a third party app.
I use an old pair of Clubsport v1's, which I know are significantly mechanically different from your v3's, so what I'm about to say may not be relevant, but I'll offer it anyway.
Every once in a while, I'll notice that I'm going 3-4 seconds a lap slower than what I know I should be capable of. Usually, I find the culprit is that there is some dust and grime that has built up near the hall effect sensor in the accelerator pedal, which prevents it from registering 100% throttle (even though my foot is flat to the floor). I'll remove the little housing for the sensor, and clean all around the magnet with a tissue, and when I put everything back together, inevitably it's been a case of problem solved.