Pins Sheered off in Wheelbase TWICE within a Month -- Advice/Comments?!

I've done Sim Racing on and off for over two decades. After a long dry spell I decided to buy some new gear and get back into it again. A friend recommended that I go with Fanatec equipment (which I've never tried -- was always a Logitech guy) saying it was superior in feel and quality.

Even though the brand is a little pricey for what I'd want to spend, I was able to find a used Clubsport wheelbase V2.5 with a CSL elite steering wheel P1, and CSL Elite 2-pedal set used, but in seemingly good condition for a reasonable price.

I got it all hooked up to my rig and it worked GREAT! For exactly 3 weeks...

It started acting flaky during an F1 race and shortly thereafter shut down. During my troubleshooting effort I discovered that a pin on the rim had sheered off in the wheelbase.

I was so dismayed. Here I had just spent pretty much twice what I had intended for a wheel (used and hence no warranty) and I wasn't eager to now have to replace it.

After some deep soul searching I decided to give it another try, especially since I was able to find a local seller on CL that had a GT DD Pro rim for sale locally for $180. He apparently had just upgraded to DD but had a McLaren rim and prefers it. So I basically got a new rim for less than half of what I would have had to spend for a different (e.g. Logitech) decent new wheel.

Again it worked great and I loved the feel and functionality of it. But after 6 DAYS, the exact same thing happened! Some flaky wheel behavior quickly followed by it shutting down. The exact same pin sheered on the new rim that had sheered on the old!

I'm beside myself with grief/anger/doubt. I'm regretting even getting the original gear to start with. I mean there's obviously an issue with stress on those pins at the connection point that wouldn't exist in a different brand which does NOT have removable rims.

Now I have over $600 of sunk costs in equipment that doesn't work. I'm very fearful of trying a third rim in the same wheelbase (fool me once, fool me twice, and all that). I guess I just wanted to share my story and get feedback/advice from other Fanatec users on their thoughts. Should I just give up and go back to cheaper brands if I don't have this sort of cash to spend (and lose)? It's been awhile (maybe 8 years) since the last time I did a lot of Sim racing. Is Fanatec gear really that much better (FFB wise) that other alternatives available? I certainly have a bad taste in my mouth so far over this experience.



  • lee spinkslee spinks Member
    edited May 13

    Hi quick question, what connections did the wheel have was it the plastic quick release or was it the qr1 metal quick release, and also it sounds like your not using the safety secure bolt that’s used to secure the wheel to prevent movement, or it could be the plug in the back of the shaft has moved, let us know if you were using the locking bolts?

    also how old is the base fanatec allow transfer of guarantee.

  • Keith LenartKeith Lenart Member
    edited May 13

    The original wheel (the CSL Elite P1) has a metal clamp with securing screw which I did use and tighten. The GT Pro wheel has a plastic collar that twists and locks extending a locking metal ball on the inside automatically and that was engaged as well during the second failure.

    I have no idea how old the wheelbase is. I did "register" it with Fanatec online and they explicitly state without original purchase invoice (which I don't have) there is no warranty support regardless of equipment age.

    Also neither wheel rim had any apparently play or looseness to it at all. I especially checked that on the second rim before trying to use it.

    Examining the wheelbase the plug receptor looks perfectly secure. There wasn't any unusual resistance when inserting the rim either as I'd expect if there was an inherent misalignment.

    Additional info all of the other remaining pins on BOTH rims seem to be in perfect condition, no bent pins or stress signs (to the naked eye).

  • Ok so it’s possible to get a replacement pin from some one like R/S electronics or some one like that or at a push take it to an electronics repair centre, or as a last resort, take one of the wheels apart and salvage a pin from it, is my suggestion unless you want to send it to fanatec for repair.

  • This may be a stupid comment, so apologies if it comes across that way: are you sure that the pin has been "sheared off"? When looking at the pins, it is normal for one to appear slightly shorter than the others.

  • No offense taken at all. They broke as the wheel stopped working and I used needle nose pliers to remove the broken pin from the wheelbase connector. In both cases its the bottom right pin when looking into the rim (the pin immediately clockwise adjacent to that short pin you are referring to).

  • Ok so a little research and I found this,

    so if you do a little research you will be able to get this issue fixed yourself, it looks like a very cost effective way to get your wheels back up and running, i hope this helps.

    ps thank you for using NON fanatec customer service, for all satisfied customers there will be a small charge ……lol.

Sign In or Register to comment.