GT DD bundle - temporairly loosing connection between wheel and wheel base

Hi guys,

so basically this is warranty related issue however, fanatec already made reparation once which lasts like 10 days or somthing however reparation was good enough for like 2 weeks time and than steering wheel again starts to temporarily losing contact with wheel base. once this happens the steering is not possible and ofc no buttons either paddles are detected. It concern the bundle GT dd Pro express.

Similar topic was already described in the forum and closed due to solution provides by fanatec support, which was based on remounting of QR hub (the metal axis with usb-c) to wheel base and tightening better the clamp.

Did You guys has same/similar issue with necessity to improve/tighten of QR hub?

Does any of You know possible improvement to avoid loosening of QR hub?

Maybe there is design issue with this wheel base, what to You think?

Wondering if this is single issue related to material failure of maybe series issue to that device.

Any technical advise here is appreciated.


  • This is a well-known issue with the CSL / GT DD, and IMO is a serious design flaw. You have the metal of the QR hub in direct contact with the carbon fiber collar, and the only thing that's holding it in place is pressure from the tightening of the U-clamp around the collar. I'm no materials expert, but metal on carbon fiber doesn't seem like the best choice when you need something high-friction that won't move. And with no kind of a locking mechanism present, it seems pretty obvious to me that eventually, over time, that clamp will loosen up a bit. And when it does, the day-to-day stresses of the player inadvertently pulling on the wheel while driving, or while changing/ removing the wheel, will be enough to pull the hub slightly forward and out of secure contact with the necessary USB-C connection.

    I had to RMA my CSL DD over this issue, as the first time it happened, following Fanatec's recommended procedure of removing/ reseating/ retightening of the QR hub worked for only a few days. After that, it didn't matter how many times I followed the procedure or how much I tightened the U-clamp, it still wound up losing connection with the wheel. (How much you're supposed to tighten the clamp is another point of contention, as I've seen both 10Nm and 15Nm mentioned on these boards and in diagrams. Personally, not owning or having access to a torque wrench, I've tightened mine by hand as far as it will go, short of bending or breaking the little hex wrench.)

    I took receipt of my RMA'd CSL DD (which I believe to have been brand new, not a repair job) back in March, I believe it was. Upon getting everything set up again, I made sure that the U-clamp was as tight as I could possibly get it, and I re-check it every month or so. I average probably about 10 hours of use or so per week, and fortunately, everything's been performing as expected.

    If you're still having disconnection problems after trying the method described above, then I suggest you contact Fanatec Support and begin the RMA process for a new wheelbase.

  • I tightened my U-collar to 15Nm. No issues. But if I had issues, I'd try fiber paste, the kind of paste that cyclists use for carbon fiber seatposts, since it increases friction without glueing anything. Yes, I'm a cyclist.

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