Setting up the max torque: suggestions don't seem right?
Hi guys,
Reading the suggested setups for all kinds of games, I thought something is off.
That is probably not the case because I am no expert at all. But I do wonder.......
The thing is, that the maximum torque (for a Podium DD1) is set in the Fanatec software to -lets say- around 40% for most games. When I try that and see the torque bar in several games, there is clipping.
When I set it to a 100% and lower it to 40% ingame; there is no clipping. With the best will, I can't reach the upper bar.
So, what am I missing here? I figure I am wrong: if so many recommend this..... But why, how?
Comments
With 40% FFB strength and a too high in-game FFB gain you will get clipping, sure..
Thats expected. So you would just need to lower the in-game FFB gain accordingly.
Thank you Maurice.
I can see the clipping is for to much force, but what I meant was, what is better: 100 Fanatec and ingame (say) 40% or the other way around: 40% Fanatec and 100% ingame?
Because the second way is recommended it seems, but when I look at a graph that some games offer, there is clipping when I set it that way.
When I set it the first way, the Fanatec software to 100% and ingame at 40%, there is no clipping.
In my opinion, both ways offer 40%, right? Why does one clip and the other does not then? So, to my simple mind (when it comes to FFB ;) ) the way NOT recommended is better? And that just doesn't seem right.
Its actually quite simple, reducing the FFB strength in the Tuning menu reduces the available torque the motor can output, so 50% = 10Nm. When you now use a too high in-game gain then the expected result is clipping because the in-game gain wants to utilize more than the available torque of the motor.
Therefore a mix of both is the best. For example for AC Fanatec suggests a FFB strength in the Tuning menu of 50% (=10 Nm on a DD1 with FFS set to PEAK) and then in-game gain of 50 as well, NOT 100 as 100 (for sure) causes clipping, as expected. For ACC its 45% in the TUning menu (=9 Nm with FFS set to PEAK) and in-game gain of 60, again NOT 100.
Of course there can not be any clipping when the Tuning Menu FFB strength is seto to 100 (=20Nm with FFS set to PEAK) with a low in-game gain which does not fully utilize the 20Nm headroom.
Ahhh, I start getting it!
That last line made all the difference.
Nice, thank you Maurice!!
It is the game that produces the clipping. In the sense that the game sends the parameters of the FFB, up to a maximum torque percentuale which is the same for each steering wheel. So, simplifying as much as possible, if you set an in-game force of 100% you will have the same clipping, whether you have a 2Nm Logitech G29 or a 20Nm DD1. Obviously in the first case you will have to tolerate clipping, but in the case of a powerful wheelbase you can adjust the torque both in-game and in the wheelbase. The best way to take advantage of the wheelbase pair is to set the game's clipping limit and set the game's FFB to that limit. Then adjust the strength of the wheelbase. What you want is to have the maximum range of detail possible. However, a part of the FFB is not a useful detail, but only potential damage. I'm referring to crashes with other vehicles or when you hit barriers or curb bollards. It's about FFB that doesn't help you in driving, but on the contrary it could hurt your hands, because it comes suddenly.
So to answer your question, no, having 40% game, 100% wheelbase is not the same as having 100 game and 40 wheelbase. They are probably both wrong, but in the first case you have 20 Nm ready to unload on your hands, and no clipping, while in the second case you have only 8, no danger but lots of clipping.
It would probably be fairer to have 67 in game and 60 in wheelbase.
Depends on the game, start at 70 and go down by 1 until the clipping, while driving, disappears altogether. That's the exact value. The best circuits to evaluate clipping are ovals or those with high speed corners.
Aha, it starts getting more clear to me by the second!
So, you guys are saying: both the values make for more detail. Fanatec 100% and ingame 40% is loosing detail, the other way around is to much force but yeah on the detail. So, set it up to give the full range in the graph.
That's what I get out of it, tried it just a minute and yes, there IS more detail even! (Thought I had a lot of that already coming from a TM TS-PC, haha!)
Something to think about.
Our current best FFB runs at 400Hz. This means that FFB is calculated 400 times in one second! Best FFBs, the ones with the highest resolution. Which means FFB is calculated and sent to the wheel a whopping 400 times in one second! Thinking about it is crazy, 400 times in one second!
A car launched at 220 km/h travels 15 cm in 1/400 of a second. Our FFB, our best FFB, works in steps of 15cm! It doesn't seem so accurate anymore. Pointed steps that the old belt-driven wheelbases softened, while the current DDs enhance. Pointed steps that many people confuse with details.
Grip and load transfer i.e. tires and dampers, that's all the FFB you need to have to drive the car. And they are slow and progressive forces. Make your FFB less pointed and you can increase the strength of your wheelbase by a few notches to have a better feeling on tires and dampers.
That is a good read Alessandro, thank you for that!
I need a few times reading it, because this stuff is not really my thing, but I will sort it out, thank you!