Anything I can do about the awful QR1 Lite clicking/rattling?

CSL DD + Boost w/ CSL Wheel V2

I had a slight click but it resolved with the recommended method of adding some electric tape but that's no longer working, it's as if the tolerance has gotten worse.

I've had the wheelbase for a few months and it's gotten to the point I can't use it, this replaced a very clunky G29 and the only reason I replaced that wheel was because the noise was unbearable for my wife and to be honest, she's right. Now this wheel is just as bad except now it has 8NM of force which makes the noise much much deeper and travels further in the house.

I'm not buying a QR2 before anyone suggests. This is my first and final Fanatec product.

Has anyone had any luck with a replacement QR1 Lite?

Can I RMA this?


  • Maybe they'd send a replacement QR Lite but I've had two, one that came with the DD Pro bundle and other with a new wheel, both slipped.

    If you don't swap wheels then the cheapest option is to pick up a QR1 and use the retaining bolt with it. There's probably loads on eBay now the QR2 is out.

  • Well that sucks.

    Not really interested in buying a QR1 to be honest, I only have 1 wheel at the moment but have been wanting to pickup a GT3/4 wheel but I'm not planning on doing that now. I'm hoping just to get this wheel base working correctly and then move away from Fanatec.

    Did they acknowledge it has a fault?

  • Stephen JayStephen Jay Member
    edited October 2023

    I've not seen them acknowledge the issue but have seen people get them replaced. Forget about QR1on eBay, people are selling them for more than a new one.

    Someone used a strip of thin metal instead of tape, could be worth giving that a go. Have a look at this.

  • QR1- Lite will be sent to you without sending back what you already have, at least this is my experience. Just open a ticket. They won't get back to you any time soon, I'm afraid.

    Your problem is very strange, to tell the truth. QR1-Lite is made of plastic, it shouldn't make any loud noises, just a few creaks as if the plastic were going to break at any moment. For comparison, my cockpit seat springs are noisier.

    I have three CSL steering wheels and for various reasons 2 QR1-lites were replaced, so I have experience with 5 different examples. A lot of movement and slipping of the steering wheel on the hub, the product is terrible, but not at all noisy, nothing that could disturb the neighbors, or my wife who sits right next to it watching TV or working on the PC.

    I'm also from G29, and it's absolutely not comparable.

    Now I use metal QR1, with some care I have almost completely eliminated the noise, without using the screw, because I change the steering wheel very often. However, on some curbs or in some moments of the game, the rattling of the steel balls can be heard very loudly, a noise similar to that of the G29. That would definitely annoy the neighbors if I played at night, but it's QR1 metal.

  • I think you're describing the same problem. I have a click but also on curbs, a solid thud can be felt/heard as the wheel rapidly moves left to right slightly. I do a lot of drifting and when the wheel goes full lock you can hear it thudding as it comes to a stop, same when you want to stop the opposite lock early and you grab the wheel. The sudden stop can be felt quite clearly as if the base turns an extra little bit before it stops despite the wheel itself being stopped solid.

    I'm going to put an RMA in and if a new QR doesn't fix it I'm tempted to chase for a refund on the basis of defective goods.

  • I might give this a go but really, wtf. If that fixes it with a 0.2mm piece of metal that is some really really really poor tolerances. I've made shelves with a handsaw with better accuracy.

  • Lower FEI until the problem disappears. You might even appreciate the FFB more.

  • It's at 50.

    The problem will never disappear because the actual wheel is rotating every so slightly indepedent of the wheel base. So sharp changes in direction causes a nasty click, a full on clunk if you're doing tight transitions when drifting. In games like ACC, the slightest bit of oversteer with a correction causes the wheel to click really badly as the grip suddenly comes back and the wheelbase wants to self center.

    Unless I'm missing something? If I'm not, this QR is kinda really bad.

  • Look for an O-ring that is 2mm thick, and approximately 35mm in diameter.

    You will still need to use tape.

  • try some Teflon tape for plumbing. wrap around the shaft .

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