OK thanks. I'm worried, this is my second base and with 2 different F1 wheels eSports V2 the same problem. I'm happy with my wheelbase and would be even happier if I knew the problem would be fixed with a new driver/firmware. Otherwise I have to send it back for RMA.
I tried rolling back to driver package versions v451 and v450 but they don't seem to be rolling back the firmware. The Fanatec software page displays the rolled back driver package number but the firmware stays the same. It's almost as though the driver package roll back isn't actually doing anything. It's bizarre.
I'd be happy to manually flash firmware but I don't know where to download the necessary firmware files. As I understand the best/safest/recommended way to roll back firmware is to roll back the driver package. I was concerned that if I did something wrong I'd make things even worse and risk bricking my wheel base.
Just rolling back the Driver does not roll back the FW for all the components, however the Driver does include all the FW revisions necessary, you have to manually downgrade each and every FW individually, unfortunately I have never had to do it myself and I assumed that when you do a manual roll back it would automatically only allow you to pick the one FW that corresponded with that driver and component, such as Base, Motor, WQR , Wheels and Pedals.
Like you I don't take FirmWare roll backs lightly as there is a high chance of bricking your gear, I just wouldn't do it unless there was no other option, I would best wait until Fanatec resolve it with a driver and other FW updates.
Re: The manual Firmware Upgrade asking for a Hex file, you don't ever load or look for a file, just continue with the "Upgrade and Flash" and it should automatically load the appropriate version needed for the component selected to upgrade based on the older Fanatec Driver version you have loaded.
Read the below forum, Maurice mentions the procedure for downgrading FW.
Thanks, I appreciate your help. That seems to all make sense and I reckon I'd be able to do it. But as you say, I think it will be wise for me to just hold tight and wait for Fanatec support to get back to me and give me assurance to proceed with a roll back. At least if I wait for their instruction I'll have recourse if something goes wrong. At the moment I have remapped my brake bias to buttons rather than the funky switch rotation. Therefore my gear is at least usable. With rain around the corner in iRacing the last thing I want is bricked hardware! Hopefully support get back to me soon.
Luke, I know this is not a proper solution but only a workaround but if you badly want funky rotation functioning correctly you could use Joy2key app and assign funky rotation left/right to keyboard keys and the map these keys in the game while the app is running in the background (hidden in tray e.g.). Works fine on my end. However, I would rather it worked like it used to, ehhh.
It's a simple yet powerful software. Might be a little intimidating at first but just create a profile, find the tab that corresponds to your wheel (if you have multiple controllers connected) find the funky left/right on the list (buttons 23 24 iirc), double click, assign keyboard key, save profile and that's it.
Hmmmm still seems to be having the same issue. It's still giving multiple inputs. The trouble is the issue is not consistent. Sometimes the funky switch will give zero input, sometimes a single input, sometimes 3x, sometimes 5x, sometimes it'll jam completely. It's hard to set thresholds within the software to get around this. Any ideas?
I cannot update Firmware of my new DD+. After several tries I did this:
I erased all of the Fanatec Hardware to try a complete reset - not having any old wheel base driver being cause of a failure; uninstalled Fanatec Control Panel and Fanalab. I used several Software to get rid of any traces in registry etc.
Starting from scratch I installed Fanatec Driver first but didn‘t open it. I connected DD+ to PC and turned power on in PC mode. Windows notified me about driver installation. After being notified about successful driver installation I started Fanatec Control Panel and Firmware Updater.
As soon as I start the Firmware update of the wheel base USB Connection gets lost after UpdateRequest response = wait. Wheel base Power/ Mode button is not responding anymore.
After power cut off & power on USB Connection is established again. SetParameterRequest response failes. FirmwareFlash failes. I shall reboot the wheel base.
After reboot USB Connection is established again. As soon as I Click Flash Firmware button FirmwareUpdaterEufe.exe stops working.
The first time I did it that way (2 times reboot) Quick Release Firmware Update was conducted successfully.
In your orders you should see a serial number. If it‘s different it‘s not the same wheel base. If it‘s the same you might got your old base back or serial number has been updated.
Pretty much exactly the same. When I rotate the switch one increment I can see it detects multiple inputs. Sometimes one, sometimes several, sometimes it sticks, and sometimes no input at all.
Ohh. Then it's a different issue and looks like the wheel is already sending wrong signals. No wonders Joy2key doesn't help here.
Please remind us, are you 100% sure this started happening bright after updating driver and firmwares?
There is still hope and a few simple things you could check.
1. How does it behave if you change settings on the wheel's LCD screen? Like sensitivity. If it's the same then the only idea is rolling back driver and firmware to check if it fixes it.
2. Trying different USB socket, preferably at the back of PC, no hubs
3. Does it feel OK under fingers when rotating? If you feel something weird then maybe there is a tiny object inside that mechanically interferes. Or it's dead broken
Yes, I am 100% sure this started happening after updating the driver package. I hadn't updated in a while and had let several driver packages pass me by because things were stable. But I decided that because it had been so long I would give a newer package a go (including updating Fanalab) but this is when the issues started occurring.
The behaviour is also faulty when I try to do on the fly adjustments using the digital display
A different USB port doesn't help (and I'm not using any hubs. I have always gone straight into my PC)
Hm. I am not sure if a faulty firmware update could cause such a behaviour. Very selective one, since everything else works fine. A pushed-in, dirty, greasy or bent pin in the wheel would cause more problems I think. Is the usb-c short cable well inserted to the hub?
Well, other than this the only thing left to do is to roll back both driver AND firmware. Reverting drikver alone won't change a thing. If this doesn't help the RMA is the only solution unless Maurice says otherwise.
I'm fairly confident it's not a bent pin. I just unseated the wheel and inspected it closely. None of the pins are bent and they don't look dirty or greasy. I have never touched the pins at any point in the time I've owned the wheel. When I reseated the wheel the problem remains. The cables are all fitted properly and indeed haven't been touched. The wheel was fine one day, I did the driver update, and now I have an issue. Literally the only thing that changed was software.
I have raised a support ticket and have been offered to send my wheel in for inspection and repair. I'm just a little annoyed that I am going to be charged for a repair that I feel I didn't cause. I believe the issue was caused by the driver update.
Yes it's well out of warranty. I haven't got a repair quote yet. I need to send it away to be diagnosed by a technician first.
I decided to brave it out just now and flash old firmware..... no bricks but the issue remains. I think I'm out of options. I'm going to have to send my wheel away.
Any idea why this wireless QR firmware update is available but not populated and if I do auto update nothing happens, it just tries to update and wheel never goes into blue light blinking mode and have to exit out. GT DD Pro with QR1 and CSL Elite V2 pedals.
Also how can I update CSL Elite V2 pedal FW if my PC doesn't have a USB type C port? Can I use an type C to type A usb adapter?
In order to update the WQR you need to detach the wheel.
The pedals come with a USB-B to USB-A cable in the box to directly connect the pedals via a regular USB-A connection to any standard PC. Note: unplug RJ12 cable from the pedal or base when you connect them via USB, NEVER connect them with both connections at the same time!
Comments
No, otherwise I would have answered your question.
OK thanks. I'm worried, this is my second base and with 2 different F1 wheels eSports V2 the same problem. I'm happy with my wheelbase and would be even happier if I knew the problem would be fixed with a new driver/firmware. Otherwise I have to send it back for RMA.
Hi,
Thanks for the response.
I tried rolling back to driver package versions v451 and v450 but they don't seem to be rolling back the firmware. The Fanatec software page displays the rolled back driver package number but the firmware stays the same. It's almost as though the driver package roll back isn't actually doing anything. It's bizarre.
I'd be happy to manually flash firmware but I don't know where to download the necessary firmware files. As I understand the best/safest/recommended way to roll back firmware is to roll back the driver package. I was concerned that if I did something wrong I'd make things even worse and risk bricking my wheel base.
t n k
Just rolling back the Driver does not roll back the FW for all the components, however the Driver does include all the FW revisions necessary, you have to manually downgrade each and every FW individually, unfortunately I have never had to do it myself and I assumed that when you do a manual roll back it would automatically only allow you to pick the one FW that corresponded with that driver and component, such as Base, Motor, WQR , Wheels and Pedals.
Like you I don't take FirmWare roll backs lightly as there is a high chance of bricking your gear, I just wouldn't do it unless there was no other option, I would best wait until Fanatec resolve it with a driver and other FW updates.
Re: The manual Firmware Upgrade asking for a Hex file, you don't ever load or look for a file, just continue with the "Upgrade and Flash" and it should automatically load the appropriate version needed for the component selected to upgrade based on the older Fanatec Driver version you have loaded.
Read the below forum, Maurice mentions the procedure for downgrading FW.
So to roll back with Driver v455 you would do, ie:
When changing base firmware, have wheel removed from base and only install when software asks to do wheels.
• CSW V2.5 Base : 693 -> Back to 692
• CSL / CSW Motor : 22 -> No Change
• CSL Elite SW McLaren GT3 : 37 -> Back to 36
• CSL Elite SW McLaren GT3 V2 : 47 -> Back to 46
• CS SW Formula Carbon : Unknown -> No change I suspect
Changelog of driver 451
*** Firmware versions included ***
• Podium DD1 / DD2 Base : 3.0.1.4
• Podium DD1 / DD2 Motor : 3.0.0.2
• CSL DD / GT DD PRO Base : 1.1.8.5
• CSL DD / GT DD PRO Motor : 1.0.3.2
• CSW V1 Base : 692
• CSW V2 Base : 692
• CSW V2.5 Base : 692
• CSL Elite Base : 692
• CSL Elite Base PS4 : 692
• CSL / CSW Motor : 22
• Podium BMW M4 GT3 : 8
• Podium Hub : 6
• Podium BME : 22
• CS SW Formula V2(X), V2.5(X) : 46
• CS SW RS : 4
• CS SW BMW V2 : 3
• CS SW F1 Esports V2 : 5
• CS UH V2 / UHX V2 : 2
• GT DD PRO SW: : 8
• CSL Elite SW McLaren GT3 : 36
• CSL Elite SW McLaren GT3 V2 : 46
• CSL Elite SW WRC : 4
• CSL UH, CSL UH V2 : 8
• CS P V3 : 1.35
• CSL Elite Pedals V2 : 1.6
• CSL Elite Pedals Load Cell Kit : 1.13
• CSL Pedals Load Cell Kit : 1.8
• CS USB Adapter - Handbrake : 1.10 (NEW)
• CS USB Adapter - Shifter : 1.12
• CS USB Adapter - CSL Pedals : 1.1
• CS USB Adapter - CSL Elite Pedals : 0.1
Thanks, I appreciate your help. That seems to all make sense and I reckon I'd be able to do it. But as you say, I think it will be wise for me to just hold tight and wait for Fanatec support to get back to me and give me assurance to proceed with a roll back. At least if I wait for their instruction I'll have recourse if something goes wrong. At the moment I have remapped my brake bias to buttons rather than the funky switch rotation. Therefore my gear is at least usable. With rain around the corner in iRacing the last thing I want is bricked hardware! Hopefully support get back to me soon.
Luke, I know this is not a proper solution but only a workaround but if you badly want funky rotation functioning correctly you could use Joy2key app and assign funky rotation left/right to keyboard keys and the map these keys in the game while the app is running in the background (hidden in tray e.g.). Works fine on my end. However, I would rather it worked like it used to, ehhh.
Hmmm I've never heard of that software before. Is it easy to use and set up? Thanks for the tip! I'll check it out tonight.
It's a simple yet powerful software. Might be a little intimidating at first but just create a profile, find the tab that corresponds to your wheel (if you have multiple controllers connected) find the funky left/right on the list (buttons 23 24 iirc), double click, assign keyboard key, save profile and that's it.
Hmmmm still seems to be having the same issue. It's still giving multiple inputs. The trouble is the issue is not consistent. Sometimes the funky switch will give zero input, sometimes a single input, sometimes 3x, sometimes 5x, sometimes it'll jam completely. It's hard to set thresholds within the software to get around this. Any ideas?
I cannot update Firmware of my new DD+. After several tries I did this:
I erased all of the Fanatec Hardware to try a complete reset - not having any old wheel base driver being cause of a failure; uninstalled Fanatec Control Panel and Fanalab. I used several Software to get rid of any traces in registry etc.
Starting from scratch I installed Fanatec Driver first but didn‘t open it. I connected DD+ to PC and turned power on in PC mode. Windows notified me about driver installation. After being notified about successful driver installation I started Fanatec Control Panel and Firmware Updater.
As soon as I start the Firmware update of the wheel base USB Connection gets lost after UpdateRequest response = wait. Wheel base Power/ Mode button is not responding anymore.
After power cut off & power on USB Connection is established again. SetParameterRequest response failes. FirmwareFlash failes. I shall reboot the wheel base.
After reboot USB Connection is established again. As soon as I Click Flash Firmware button FirmwareUpdaterEufe.exe stops working.
The first time I did it that way (2 times reboot) Quick Release Firmware Update was conducted successfully.
So, these are my latest Log Files:
And how does it behave when testing in Fanatec control panel?
Good evening friends.
Looks like I'm getting my base delivered from the FANATEC RMA on Monday.
I haven't yet figured out whether it's the same one or another base and steering wheel.
Because in my case the steering wheel was also asked for.
How do I know if the base is the same or if they have changed?
In your orders you should see a serial number. If it‘s different it‘s not the same wheel base. If it‘s the same you might got your old base back or serial number has been updated.
It does not have a serial number.
I only have item pricep unit zero.
then I know that they are 2 packages because there are 2 track numbers.
Sorry, misunderstood. I thought you wanted to find out if it‘s the same wheel base because you already received it and don‘t know.
Pretty much exactly the same. When I rotate the switch one increment I can see it detects multiple inputs. Sometimes one, sometimes several, sometimes it sticks, and sometimes no input at all.
Ohh. Then it's a different issue and looks like the wheel is already sending wrong signals. No wonders Joy2key doesn't help here.
Please remind us, are you 100% sure this started happening bright after updating driver and firmwares?
There is still hope and a few simple things you could check.
1. How does it behave if you change settings on the wheel's LCD screen? Like sensitivity. If it's the same then the only idea is rolling back driver and firmware to check if it fixes it.
2. Trying different USB socket, preferably at the back of PC, no hubs
3. Does it feel OK under fingers when rotating? If you feel something weird then maybe there is a tiny object inside that mechanically interferes. Or it's dead broken
Yes, I am 100% sure this started happening after updating the driver package. I hadn't updated in a while and had let several driver packages pass me by because things were stable. But I decided that because it had been so long I would give a newer package a go (including updating Fanalab) but this is when the issues started occurring.
Hey,
New update of drivers 455 -
DD2 won't accept the hi-torque notification with 90 degree turn - it keeps looping out and never accepts.
Worked fine until update - (455/3.0.4.3/3.0.0.2/7)
QR2, clubsport formula wheel & 3rd party
Good morning.
I received the csl dd base from RMA FANATEC today.
Currently I only play on Xbox.
Do I need to update the driver?
If so which is the 455?
Thank you.
Hm. I am not sure if a faulty firmware update could cause such a behaviour. Very selective one, since everything else works fine. A pushed-in, dirty, greasy or bent pin in the wheel would cause more problems I think. Is the usb-c short cable well inserted to the hub?
Well, other than this the only thing left to do is to roll back both driver AND firmware. Reverting drikver alone won't change a thing. If this doesn't help the RMA is the only solution unless Maurice says otherwise.
I'm fairly confident it's not a bent pin. I just unseated the wheel and inspected it closely. None of the pins are bent and they don't look dirty or greasy. I have never touched the pins at any point in the time I've owned the wheel. When I reseated the wheel the problem remains. The cables are all fitted properly and indeed haven't been touched. The wheel was fine one day, I did the driver update, and now I have an issue. Literally the only thing that changed was software.
I have raised a support ticket and have been offered to send my wheel in for inspection and repair. I'm just a little annoyed that I am going to be charged for a repair that I feel I didn't cause. I believe the issue was caused by the driver update.
I imagine your product is out of warranty, how much did they ask you for the repair?
They deleted the message.
Send me on private messages.
Yes it's well out of warranty. I haven't got a repair quote yet. I need to send it away to be diagnosed by a technician first.
I decided to brave it out just now and flash old firmware..... no bricks but the issue remains. I think I'm out of options. I'm going to have to send my wheel away.
Darn it, pity none of my ideas worked. Good luck with the RMA.
I very much appreciate your help though. Thanks again.
Any idea why this wireless QR firmware update is available but not populated and if I do auto update nothing happens, it just tries to update and wheel never goes into blue light blinking mode and have to exit out. GT DD Pro with QR1 and CSL Elite V2 pedals.
Also how can I update CSL Elite V2 pedal FW if my PC doesn't have a USB type C port? Can I use an type C to type A usb adapter?
Windows 10 everything updated.
In order to update the WQR you need to detach the wheel.
The pedals come with a USB-B to USB-A cable in the box to directly connect the pedals via a regular USB-A connection to any standard PC. Note: unplug RJ12 cable from the pedal or base when you connect them via USB, NEVER connect them with both connections at the same time!