Formula v2.5x Paddles miss shifting
Hi,
I finally received my Formula v2.5x from my BF order, and already I have an issue.
It seems my paddle are miss shifting suite often during a race, sometimes becoming irresponsive for a couple seconds.
I have a CSL DD + Formula wheel v2.5x + Elite v2 pedals.
I've updated to the latest firmware and drivers, even the beta release candidate without any success.
Is it a known issue ?
Could it be a grounding issue or do I already need RMA after 4 months of waiting ?
Comments
For what its worth, my Formula V2.5 wheel left paddle shifter never worked brand new out of box, I had to return and get a replacement wheel thru RMA.
Have you verified that cables are seated properly? There's video/pictures by Fanatec on how to verify cable seat/install, there are 2 screws I think on backside, bottom. I would open a support ticket, and I think they send you the link to video or pictures to help check this.
My guess is something mechanical as it works sometimes, maybe switch is bad. Either Fanatec support and/or upgrade to Advanced Paddle Module IF you can determine that the shifter is bad and not the circuit board. I would RMA it IMHO.
I haven't checked the paddles directly yet, I don't have the right alen key unfortunately. :(
Man if I need to RMA after waiting 4 months to get it...it's such a pain.
One thing I would try before a RMA, is to swap the suspect shifter connector to opposite socket and see if still won't shift. This will tell you if the shifter switch is bad or the wheel is defective. Only if it's the wheel would I RMA it. Otherwise I would order a APM as Tae suggested or try to fix the shifter micro switch myself.
Mine started doing this exact thing when I got my CS DD. I did update it to latest FW version, I wonder if that's the culprit?
I had this issue on the left shifter (about a 30% miss rate on downshifts) on my V2.5 CSW. I swapped the connectors at the rear base of the wheel (accessed by unscrewing the lowest 2x small screws at the front of the wheel then removing the cover at rear base), and the problem followed the magnetic shifter. So I removed the offending shifter completely from the wheel then removed the actual push switch (released by a single screw on the shifter body). I then noticed the conical contact on the push switch had exposed a tiny metal pin and there was matching indentation on the metal arm of the shifter - as if the switch pin has dug into it. I used a small foam tape piece (about 2mm depth) to cover the indentation and then mounted the pin switch back in place with the screw (there is a guiding lug to help get it into fixed position) before re-running the connector cable back into the wheel body and re-connecting it back up. It.all took about 10 minutes with just a couple of small allen keys. After reassembly, plugged the wheel back into the base and restarted it. No misses so far.