You saved my family life 😂😂😂. Last few days I have spend hours to fix those settings after last path. I dont know why but after that everythink fu… up in my wheel 🙈
Whole Family wanted to kill me because all the time I was playing and trying to fix the game😂.
I have tried Your settings and they are very good.
All turns and more precise!!!
I think the key was to make nfr, nin on zero and int on 1. Because similar settings in the game I was trying but I had difrent settings on wheel and all was not so good.
I made some small changes to Yours settings. Maybe for other drivers there will have some other options to check out.
I have made Fei and For on 80 - 90 ( still checking wchich is better ). There was to much bumping on the wheel for me so I made litle bit less.
Also I made litle bit more FFB on snow to 90. On 80 was litle bit soft for me.
On game settings I have made tire sleep on 60. To much bumping on the wheel for me in some bigger turns.
It's obvious you know nothing about DD technology with ffb always 100%...
Reducing the steering wheel force from dd will reduce the torque force, not that you will lose steering wheel function. Such a fanatic DD1 has 25nm of torque force. That could break your arms. All the top esport players drive with reduced torque money. The (nm) FFB in the game is used to tune the vibration and drag you need. If 8nm is not enough for you, then yes, but you need to get a more powerful wheel with more nm. My setup is done for Rally and the torque force is perfectly fine with me and now also for Jacek Żak...
Reducing the force with only 8 Nm is the wrong approach. Use Linear mode instead of Peak, which reduces the peak to 6 Nm but gives you more Dynamic Range. Improve the details, if you don't need all 8 Nm.
You are mixing essential concepts for strong wheelbases, with 15-25 Nm, applying them to wheelbases with less than 10 Nm, whose strength must be fully exploited, in order to avoid the clipping that comes from the game as much as possible. It is always better to lower the game forces.
Ok, I don't dispute the result there, but the approach. If you like the settings, leave them as they are and focus on the game. This is a discussion that has already been held, which you can find here on the site, and which ended more or less like this, just configure, let's start playing.
When you have a high-end wheelbase, 20-25 Nm, but also 12-15 Nm of the new CS DD and CS DD+, what you have to try to optimize is the dynamic range of the FFB, basically try to use all the "resolution" of forces offered by the game. From the game, not from wheelbase, wheelbase is powerful enough to play them all. So you will never use all the power, but only the necessary one, focusing on the game settings.
Instead, when you have an entry level wheelbase, say 8-10 Nm, what you need to keep under control is clipping. Which means using all the torque available, and highlighting medium-low forces. But it is not forbidden to lower the strength, if it seems too much and you have no clipping.
Now, setting your wheelbase from 8 Nm to 81%, so it's 6.5 Nm, doesn't make any sense. Telling others they don't understand DD makes even less sense. Then everyone does as they want.
Don't get fixated on other people's settings. Other people's setups are like farts, everyone likes their own.
Jacek Żak
Member
Comments
Try this...you don't need always full power (8Nm) for a good FFB.
Thanks a lot.
You saved my family life 😂😂😂. Last few days I have spend hours to fix those settings after last path. I dont know why but after that everythink fu… up in my wheel 🙈
Whole Family wanted to kill me because all the time I was playing and trying to fix the game😂.
I have tried Your settings and they are very good.
All turns and more precise!!!
I think the key was to make nfr, nin on zero and int on 1. Because similar settings in the game I was trying but I had difrent settings on wheel and all was not so good.
I made some small changes to Yours settings. Maybe for other drivers there will have some other options to check out.
I have made Fei and For on 80 - 90 ( still checking wchich is better ). There was to much bumping on the wheel for me so I made litle bit less.
Also I made litle bit more FFB on snow to 90. On 80 was litle bit soft for me.
On game settings I have made tire sleep on 60. To much bumping on the wheel for me in some bigger turns.
Thank U very much for help 🙏😀.
on wheelbase
ffb always 100%
ndp 30%
nfr 5%
nin 10%
fei 80%
int 3
in game :
SAT : 45
Wheel friction 30
Tire friction 75
Suspension 100
tire sleep 85
collision 50
EA wrc have bad FFB overall, poor rally game in my opinion
ps : sensitivity on wheelbase 1080° then calibrate in game and use soft lock on
every car is automatic correctly.
Sen 540 is ok for me. On dirt 2.0 and in the begining on EA Wrc was ok.
Try those settings what Edwin have sended to me. It changed a lot for me.
It's obvious you know nothing about DD technology with ffb always 100%...
Reducing the steering wheel force from dd will reduce the torque force, not that you will lose steering wheel function. Such a fanatic DD1 has 25nm of torque force. That could break your arms. All the top esport players drive with reduced torque money. The (nm) FFB in the game is used to tune the vibration and drag you need. If 8nm is not enough for you, then yes, but you need to get a more powerful wheel with more nm. My setup is done for Rally and the torque force is perfectly fine with me and now also for Jacek Żak...
Reducing the force with only 8 Nm is the wrong approach. Use Linear mode instead of Peak, which reduces the peak to 6 Nm but gives you more Dynamic Range. Improve the details, if you don't need all 8 Nm.
You are mixing essential concepts for strong wheelbases, with 15-25 Nm, applying them to wheelbases with less than 10 Nm, whose strength must be fully exploited, in order to avoid the clipping that comes from the game as much as possible. It is always better to lower the game forces.
Hi Alessandro.
Maybe please let us know what kind of settings do U have.
We can try.
I think it is good discussion here to fix the best settings for each of us.
Ok, I don't dispute the result there, but the approach. If you like the settings, leave them as they are and focus on the game. This is a discussion that has already been held, which you can find here on the site, and which ended more or less like this, just configure, let's start playing.
When you have a high-end wheelbase, 20-25 Nm, but also 12-15 Nm of the new CS DD and CS DD+, what you have to try to optimize is the dynamic range of the FFB, basically try to use all the "resolution" of forces offered by the game. From the game, not from wheelbase, wheelbase is powerful enough to play them all. So you will never use all the power, but only the necessary one, focusing on the game settings.
Instead, when you have an entry level wheelbase, say 8-10 Nm, what you need to keep under control is clipping. Which means using all the torque available, and highlighting medium-low forces. But it is not forbidden to lower the strength, if it seems too much and you have no clipping.
Now, setting your wheelbase from 8 Nm to 81%, so it's 6.5 Nm, doesn't make any sense. Telling others they don't understand DD makes even less sense. Then everyone does as they want.
Don't get fixated on other people's settings. Other people's setups are like farts, everyone likes their own.