CSL Elite WRC disconnecting during use
Jeffrey Brown
Member
I just took delivery of the WRC wheel, which I got for those times when the F1 wheel just doesn’t seem appropriate, e.g. dirt, stocks, etc.
I am able to hook this up to my DD1 base just fine, got the firmware updated to 374 without too much of an issue, as well. Initially everything seems to work well (though I can’t seem to figure out what button or combo is needed to give an “ok” to the wheelbase). But the the wheel constantly loses connection to the base during gameplay (iRacing), and I can’t change gears or get any other buttons to work. It seems the FFB goes away, as well. If I give the wheel a good shove/jerk, it may temporarily reconnect, but it typically requires removal and reseating, at which point it might work for a lap before the issue occurs again.
Any thoughts?
Comments
Are you sure you're inserting the steering wheel all the way in on the wheel base QR?
It sure seems that way. I mean, I haven’t put it in a vise, or anything... but it sure seems seated as far as it can go.
After pushing the wheel in place did you remember to turn the quick release to lock it in place?
And are you able to turn the QR nut about 220 degrees until it reaches the limiter?
So, I tried it again this morning. Made extra sure the the wheel was fully seated onto the DD1 hub. And (as I had before) the QR lock was locked all the way to its stop.
I could run a few laps, but then I would lose the ability to downshift- which was fixed by a yank and shove of the wheel onto the base, but it keeps recurring once it happens. It seems like it is just not able to keep a connection (and then the annoying "enable torque?" message pops up, and I still can't figure out how to acknowledge it and make it go away from this wheel...)
So the problem is definitely reproducible, and while not constant (I got a few laps in before it started doing it), it does seem to consistently happen. If I'm the only one seeing this problem, maybe it's just a defect in my wheel. I can certainly just send it back if that's the case. I am worried that it just won't play well with the podium hub, though, and that I should have ponied up more $$ for a higher quality wheel.
"......which was fixed by a yank and shove of the wheel onto the base".
Careful how you yanking and shoving the wheel onto the base. You may end up damaging the pins and you'll be in a worse off situation.
Truth. That sounded more violent than I meant it, LOL. Probably push/pull is more appropriate. But I think it really comes down to the fact that the wheel is slipping off the hub while I'm driving- probably due to some tension I'm putting on it during active use, of course.
But anyway, I tested it in a race this morning and on the white flag lap the entire wheel quit responding, buttons and steering input. Thankfully I had a bit of track to myself and didn't ruin anyone else's day when I put it into the tires... After that, the hub was frozen and needed a power cycle to reboot. I think it's time to just stick to the F1 wheel and call it a day.
But I think it really comes down to the fact that the wheel is slipping off the hub while I'm driving-
Because you pull the steering wheel towards you?
I'm thinking so. But it's not like I'm hanging from it or actively pulling on it or anything.
Mounting the wheel properly to begin with, I would run 3-4 laps on a rallycross track (so many turns, a jump, dirt, etc.- so lot's of FFB inputs) and pull over. Then, after unlocking the QR, I would try and snug the wheel up to the hub again. Each and every time I'd find I'd have a few millimeters of movement there that wasn't present when I started. So the wheel just isn't locking tightly to the hub.
Realizing that, I can say in hindsight that when locking the QR up to the stop, I really don't feel much resistance at all. Not sure I should, but it is very easy to lock it to the stop. I've tried tightening the hub a bit, as well, to get a little rubber ring swell to hold it in, but that doesn't seem to make much difference, in all honesty.
Please can you make a video of how you put the steering wheel on the wheel base.
That is so strange the issues you're having with that wheel. The disconnections, looseness et al. As for the tightness I've seen reviews from some of the top reviewers praising that new QR locking system and hoping it gets introduced as a standard for future wheels....that it is easy to affix and really locks the wheel in place.
BTW which platform are you racing on? PS4, Xbox console or PC? Don't know if you stated it before but I may have missed it.
Not really, it is a two handed job. But I do it EXACTLY as in the video guide between 2:10 and 2:25.
https://youtu.be/p5NdcKsidWc?t=130
As I said above, I later did try tightening the hub ring a bit to see if it made a difference, but it didn't seem to.
David - I've just used it for PC racing to this point (I keep thinking I might use it for Xbox later, especially if the new series X supports multiple monitors- but I haven't to this point). I only have so much gaming time available, after all...
I find it surprising, too. That's why I was posting to see if anyone else had a similar experience. At least now that I figured out the thing is slipping, I can make sure I unlock and re-seat it periodically to make sure it doesn't lose connection during a race again. But I'll probably look into sending it back and trying a replacement if I can't figure it out.
You must be royally pissed. You don't expect to have those kind of issues with a new product especially when it takes so long to get. And now most likely having to send it back etc etc and you know how much longer that takes. I do hope you get this resolved.
And you are able turn the QR nut 220 degrees until it reaches the limiter?
Because if you can't turn the QR nut more than 90 degrees it means that the steering wheel is not inserted all the way in.
I wouldn't say that I'm mad as much as disappointed. But you do get what you pay for, I suppose.
Hristo- I think I've stated that multiple times. The lock moves to the stop with no significant resistance or effort. All the way to the lock. I appreciate your presence here trying to help, but I'm getting the impression you think I'm an idiot. Trust me, I'm not.
I apologize.
The first option is to contact Fanatec support.
The second option is to buy ClubSport Quick Release Adapter which will eliminate the problem but will cost you 100 Euros.
The third option is to remove the limiter in the QR which limits how much the nut can be tightened, as I did with this QR:
From one red arrow to the other, the thread is significantly thickened, which limits how much it can be tightened.
If you are good in DIY, you can use a file to thin the thread and thus remove the restriction. Which will allow you to tighten the nut more and possibly eliminate the problem.
I have an issue with same wheel.
Wheel base is
CSL Elite Wheel Base officially licensed for PS4
I have latest 3.28 firmware
I have installed the wheel
When powering up I get red flashing led
When I change from one system to other I get flashing blue light and flashing red light
No any contact to xbox one x
You need driver 374 which you can find here in the download section.
Firmware update of wheel worked
I also meet theis problem..... My CSL+F1 is great, but when I use the WRC wheel it always disconnect.
Hi, have you solve the problem?
Hi
I have bought, one month ago, exactly the same setup (F1 Podium DD1 base for PS4 + CSL Elite WRC steering wheel. I have exactly the same issue. Even by mouting the steering wheel exactly as shown in the video, after a few minute, I lose the electrical connection : It's obvious that the reason is the same as you, Jefferey, described : THe tightening of the steering wheel on the base is not strong enough ! That allows during driving a slippering of the steering wheel... When the movement achieves some mm the pins are not connected anymore!
Jeffrey could you fix this issue ? Did you get support from Fanatec ? Have you tried out the DIY proposal from Hristo (wich seems to make sense) ?
Best regards, Bruno
Hello! Do anyone knows a way of changing the language of co-o driver's voice in game (WRC 9 on pc)?? I want to change it into greek. Thanks and appreciate it!!
Bruno-
I did get an email from Fanatec CS, but it wasn't terribly helpful (other than to offer a refund, which was nice). I still have the wheel, but saved it only to give along with a CS wheelbase as an Xmas present.
I solved the problem (kind of) by buying the Porsche wheel/button with the podium connector... which works great (but was admittedly three times the price, and won't work with Xbox- though I'm really just a PC/iRacing guy). If I was keeping it, I wouldn't have hesitated to try the DIY fix- I think it makes sense- or simply buy a different mount for it (but I felt the wheel was too cheap to invest more money in, hence just splurging on the Porsche replica wheel. I go between that and the formula V2 rim depending on what I'm driving.
I was sorry to see they used the same quick connector with the McLaren reboot- I hope more people aren't faced with the same issue with that one.
Jeffrey
thank you for your reply. Depending on the feedback from the CS, I will try the DIY solution.
BEst regards
Did you ever fix it this issue having the same problem, and you selected it and based it? But from time to time, I think it does disconnect more if I’m hitting the wall or crashing more. I did everything that people recommended on here, I think
The WRC ÉLITE wheel is not built properly. I’m also reading it could be the plastic release plate. It’s not sturdy enough. So I just ordered a more expensive wheel with the WR MTL QUICK RELEASE Plate. I hope this helps. What did you do? Did you resell this issue?
PS5 CSL DD WRC ELITE (Xbox,pf,ps) ready
I just did all of tightening up of all pics and did everything required Up to this point.
any thoughts can anyone help me here ?