Automobilista 2 (PC) - Fanatec Recommended Settings
Dominic Brennan
Member, Administrator
General Notes:
- The settings below are considered to be reasonable baseline values for Automobilista 2 (PC). They might not suit all tastes and driving styles, but they are a good starting point. Bear in mind that Automobilista 2 uses a dynamic physics engine covering a broad range of cars and tracks, meaning that these settings might not be 'optimal' for every possible driving scenario.
- In order to apply the suggested settings correctly, it is important to assign both the Tuning Menu values AND the suggested In-Game settings together.
- For the Podium Series settings, it is assumed that the Torque Key is being used.
- In the 'Controls' menu, under 'Control Scheme', your Fanatec hardware should be automatically detected. Select the options to calibrate the wheel and pedals and follow the instructions. The 'Configuration' menu and 'Edit Assignments' menu should also have sensible defaults automatically applied.
- Wheel speed varies significantly between different car classes. Controlling wheel speed is essential for realistic FFB. For direct drive bases, this is largely influenced through the Natural Damper (NDP), and on CSL Elite and ClubSport bases, the Drift Mode (DRI). The settings below should feel reasonable with all cars, but it is weighted towards 'fast' wheel speed, which is typically more suited to open-wheel cars. Some car classes may require higher values of NDP (or lower values of Drift Mode) in order to reduce wheel speed.
- Ensure you are using the latest wheel base firmware.
Podium Wheel Base DD1 / Podium Racing Wheel F1® PS4™
Tuning Menu Settings:
- SEN Auto
- FF 42
- FFS Peak
- NDP 22
- NFR 1
- NIN 6
- INT 2
- FEI 100
- FOR 100
- SPR 100
- DPR 100
- BLI User Preference
- SHO 100
- BRF User Preference
In-Game Settings:
- Gain: 65
- Low Force Boost: 0
- FX: 0
- Menu Spring Strength: 0
Podium Wheel Base DD2
Tuning Menu Settings:
- SEN Auto
- FF 42
- FFS Peak
- NDP 22
- NFR 1
- NIN 6
- INT 2
- FEI 100
- FOR 100
- SPR 100
- DPR 100
- BLI User Preference
- SHO 100
- BRF User Preference
In-Game Settings:
- Gain: 65
- Low Force Boost: 0
- FX: 0
- Menu Spring Strength: 0
ClubSport Wheel Base V2
Tuning Menu Settings:
- SEN Auto
- FF 100
- SHO 100
- ABS User Preference
- DRI 002
- FOR 100
- SPR 100
- DPR 100
- BLI User Preference
In-Game Settings:
- Gain: 65
- Low Force Boost: 0
- FX: 0
- Menu Spring Strength: 0
ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5
Tuning Menu Settings:
- SEN Auto
- FF 100
- SHO 100
- ABS User Preference
- DRI -02
- FOR 100
- SPR 100
- DPR 100
- BLI User Preference
- FEI 100
In-Game Settings:
- Gain: 65
- Low Force Boost: 0
- FX: 0
- Menu Spring Strength: 0
CSL Elite Wheel Base (V1)
Tuning Menu Settings:
- SEN Auto
- FF 100
- SHO 100
- ABS User Preference
- DRI 002
- FOR 100
- SPR 100
- DPR 100
- BLI User Preference
- FEI 100
In-Game Settings:
- Gain: 65
- Low Force Boost: 0
- FX: 0
- Menu Spring Strength: 0
CSL Elite Wheel Base V1.1 / CSL Elite Wheel Base +
Tuning Menu Settings:
- SEN Auto
- FF 100
- SHO 100
- ABS User Preference
- DRI -02
- FOR 100
- SPR 100
- DPR 100
- BLI User Preference
- FEI 080
In-Game Settings:
- Gain: 65
- Low Force Boost: 0
- FX: 0
- Menu Spring Strength: 0
CSL DD
(Compatibility Mode)
Tuning Menu Settings:
- SEN Auto
- FF 100
- FFS Peak
- NDP 25
- NFR Off
- NIN Off
- INT 4
- FEI 100
- FOR 100
- SPR 100
- DPR 100
- BLI User Preference
- SHO 100
- BRF User Preference
In-Game Settings:
- Gain: 65
- Low Force Boost: 0
- FX: 0
- Menu Spring Strength: 0
Comments
What is BLI?
Default is off
Brake Level Indicator, formerly known as ABS. It controls the Threshold for Brake Vibration.
Suggestions on settings for ClubSport V3 pedals with Load Cell and Performance Kit that doesn't have the brakes locking up so easily?
Am curious what people are using for the in game settings with the new update that changed ffb so much. I have a Fanatec CSW 2.5 and after I turned off damping on the wheel (per guidance from Reiza), I was simply floored at how good the ffb felt compared to last versions. The Merc on Donington Park felt just planted with great detail. I ran default recommended settings per above on the wheel. In game, I set Gain 65, low end force to 0, fx to 40, and damper to 25. I was up late last night trying to get the Porsche cup cars to work until I saw that they seem to be gorked in this release. All good. Otherwise excellent and know it will be fixed.
Yeah the latest update to FFB is great. What I dont understand tho, is if we set Dampening to zero on the wheel, wont that mean the new in-game Dampening doesnt work? Or is the in-game Dampening setting using the main Force feedback channel?
I am no expert, but I think it just means that there was no discrete damping control coming from AMS2 and now with the add there is. With the wheel control to 0, I think you get just the damping signal from the game. I also turned off Spring on the wheel and felt like I noticed an improvement, but have no idea if thats right or wrong.
BTW, here is where I ended up happy on my CSW 2.5.
In Fanalab
FF 100
DR -1
FEI 80
FOR 100
SPR OFF
DPR OFF
In game
Gain 65
Low Force 0
FX 30
Damping 15
Menu Spring 0
for me this settings works fine in different car classes, GT3+GT4, Ultima GT and Formula Reiza.
in Fanalab for CSL Elite:
SEN AUTO
FF 100%
DRI -2
FEI 70
FOR 80-100 (depending on how much steering force you want in diffrent cars. Value is also depending on used steringwheel size )
SPR 100%
DPR 100%
in game:
Gain 50
Low Force 5
FX 15
Damping 50
Meny Spring as you like
Over all the new update provides fantastic FFB, feeling what the car is doing on the track was never this good!
I am not sure yet if i like the new AMS2 FFB more than ACC. But i will rate it with 9,5/10
Please update this recommended settings because it’s not on par with the current state of FFB in automobilista 2. When using this setting on DD2 I got injured wrists because the wheel is violently snapping at wheel centre.
Hi,
first of thanks for the settings, but ...
I have an "multiple input detected" error when trying to set up the Fanatec CSL Elite's steering axis in AMS2.
It used to work but for what ever reason it does not anymore (PC Updated, and also AMS2 Updated) now I can not configure the steering.
Its working fine in other games (Dirt2.0, ACC), and all but the steering axis can be configured AMS2. I am not sure whats causing it.
Also the calibration of the wheel does not work - it keeps showing zero. Is there a trick to force AMS2 to configure it correctly?
I have of course unplugged everything I can and I dont have the shifter (there is a thread about that in AMS2 Forum).
Kind reagrds,
Ok, so the FFB on AMS2 through the updates have been all over the place. I had given up hope and almost uninstalled the game after trying many different combos of settings, but everything felt like I was driving on ice and no real communication at the limit.
With the new update today, I tried something simple. Ignore all the advice of the update notes from Reiza and just set the settings the way that Fanatec recommends. And holy crap was it better, like a great game better. I tried the Porsche on Brands Hatch on AAC and on Rf2 and AMS2 was right up there in terms of feel and precision.
For me it was factory as directed above with two tweeks. Adjusted FFB down to 90 and then Drift mode from -2 to -1. Super happy now.
amazing settings
cheers
Hello @all,
could someone please give me his current DD1 Tuning Menu Settings and InGame Settings?
I do not really get along and am dissatisfied with the FFB.
Around the centering I have little feedback.
I drive with the DD1 + Formula V2 and V3 pedals.
Thank you.
Thomas
Hello , My FFB settings are great , I don't have them very strong as I don't want to tear my old shoulders. The problem is when the car reaches it's full Angle of steering which in the F1 Ultimate maybe 360 or so I have in Auto sen , Anyway when full lock at hairpin at monaco gp the wheel hits back hard and is dangerous ? can this hit back at full lock be toned down independently? Also any car if I spin and the wheel gets to full angle , Smash'O!! potential broken fingers or wrist .Cheers for any help.
Hi @Dominic Brennan
Not sure if you have any contact with Rezia, but current release 1.2.3.11776 of AMS2 doesn't let you use wheel buttons while driving (eg. no paddles), but does detect them for mapping.
Thread on the AMS2 forums hints that it's because it's looking at one of the 2 devices of the Fanatec wheels, and somehow not seeing the buttons. (DD1 + CSL-DD)
Any reg hack / magic button mapping to USB devices?
Is there any update on these settings since the 1.3 update is out ?
No
Hello.
I've been testing your latest drivers, software and recommended settings for AMS2 and when I crash into objects i get very strong jolts/spikes in FFB where I've come very close to causing serious injury. I've reported this to AMS2 forums but some are saying this is the hardware settings fault. I've tried messing with all the settings and no matter what i try this continues to happen. If i turn down the overall gain i most FFB while normal driving so this is not an option.
Any suggestions? Is this the game or the drivers/hardware settings?
I have the DD2 with 1.6.06 fanalab and 431 drivers. Using profiles uploaded here as well as recommended settings within fanalab
Just said the same thing in the Automobilista forums
Automobilista 2 Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations | Page 96 | Reiza Studios Forum
Could it be that this is basically project cars 2 so DD1's need to be in v2.5 mode?
Ok have put my DD1 in v2.5 mode and its 100% better!
Further testing its works awesome on some cars and still awful on others back to the testing!
Ok im defeated. i'll come back in the future at some point when it gets fixed, like what happened with Raceroom and ACC, their FFB was fixed and made a huge improvement, heres hoping as I really do like this game!
Hey Dean. Saw your message on the other forum as well. I'm surprised others aren't reporting similar issues, but i see that both you and I are on the latest fanalab and firmware drives. I wonder if this is related?
Anyone else here able to confirm that when playing AMS 2 when hitting large curbs or big changes to suspension/wheels that you do or do not get high force spikes in the FFB? I've came close to injuring myself multiple times now because of this.
I've had one big spike since Ams2 update dropped. It really caught me by surprise and yes, it hurt. Not sure how random it is but I haven't really touched Ams2 since. Too scared.
i have a problem with some cars (the sigma p1 for example) where the wheel starts oscillating like crazy while the car is standing still.
if you give the wheel a short spin the oscillation starts.
i aready deleted any custom ffb ffb files, used the recommended settings and tried to turn up the natural friction/inertia and damper, nothing works. is this a known problem for ams2?
Yes that's a known issue of the games FFB implementation
hello guys,
i am kinda new too automobilista 2
but i finally changed form my g29 too a CSL DD (playing in VR) happy me.😎
my question is:
how do i get the CSL DD working in PC MODE ? (for now i only get it too work in COMP mode)
also the calibration ingame is not working for me. (in fanatec itself it is working)
ingame must i choose the option Wheel ---> Fanatec ----> csw2.5 ??? (or something else ?)
i use clubsport v3 pedal + CSL DD
thanks in advance
Jordy
Yes, confirm almost broke my wrist but looks like found what is causing it. I was trying to find some solution for oscillation and lowered in game gain to 20 and raised fanatec ffb to 80 on my DD2. While driving on road everything was fine and had very very low ffb until drove into grass then got huge spike.
In my test the problem is in new "Default+" ffb type. In "Default" there are no problems. Tested it by driving paralel to road while beeing on the grass then start to drift/spin to the road and when front wheels hit tarmac Default+ gets huge ffb spike.
I just bought AMS2 on the winter steam sale. Popped Dominic's recommended settings in for my CSL DD 5Nm, and the only things I changed were adding a slight amount of NFR (0 ->5) because the wheel (McLaren v2) felt a little bit light.
I also upped the in-game Gain from 65 to 75. Tested in a range of cars including the Rental Kart, the VW Polo, the Ginetta Cup, and the F3 car... all felt really good... if it's not on par with AC/Raceroom/Rfactor quality of FFB, it's damn close.
------------------------------------------------
(As a side note...I really don't think Reiza have done themselves any favors with the AMS2 Demo they recently released. The two cars available are absolutely DREADFUL to drive. Lame, underpowered family cars on what could basically be considered a kart track is not exactly an awe-inspiring experience. On top of that, I don't think the demo has all of the new FFB/physics changes currently in the full game. I was so unimpressed with it, I wanted to buy the game initially but after playing the demo, I had changed my mind!
It was only due to the encouragement of a couple of friends who insisted that the full game really IS worth my time and money, that I actually caved and decided to buy it. And I have to say that after spending a few hours with it now, I'm glad I did.)
The new AMS update added CSL DD support (its in the list now)
+ It says something about limiting rumble in the changelog.
+ There is a damping setting now
Pretty new to this, but the wheel now works in PC mode for me. Any changes to recommended settings?
TBH, I can't say I really get why PC mode exists at all. From everything I've been led to believe, the only difference is that CMP utilizes a different USB ID. And that's it. I mean, if everything needs to utilize CMP mode initially upon the wheelbase's release, and games all seem to be working fine with it...then what is the point of ever switching to PC mode? There must be some sort of performance or functionality benefit, right? Otherwise why would it exist?
hello everyone, I too have just switched to pc mode with csl dd on driver, updated or advice on settings ?? in my opinion fanatec should correct the recommended settings for every single game that receives update to pc mode!