Fanatec Clubsport Table Clamp V2 holes?
Daniel Bang Member
I just recently got my order of a CSL DD etc etc and the Table Clamp V2, but the thing is, it only has 6 holes in the top piece, where only 2 of them are lined up to match the CSL DD, it doesn't looks like the one https://youtu.be/tWlatCB0PRY?t=178 has with 8 holes...
Ok... I guess it is the V1 with more holes, which would be better for CSL DD...
I took the top piece off of my V1 table clamp and drilled some mounting holes for my CSL DD into the bottom piece, worked great, very solid but couldn't tilt the wheel base up so I then made some metal side plates to mount the wheel base to the table clamp that allow up to about 10° of up tilt, works perfectly. I'll add a photo here later for reference.
Thanks, I will see if I can do the same on mine, it is very stable with just two screws, but it has a tiny side-flex, but the up-down flex is a bit more due to it missing something in the back, i have also been thinking about just adding some hard rubber dots on the parts between the lower metal of the table clamp against the DD to hold against it.
Check the manual, cos I think Fanatec recommends at least 3 mounting points for the CSL DD.
This is how it looks currently, I will be painting it black of course. It's holding the wheelbase with 4 bolts and the T-Slots allow the wheelbase to tilt upwards to about 11°, it's very solid.
I had to drill 4 holes in the table clamp which had to be pretty accurately placed so the wheel base slotted in between the metal plates perfectly, I did this by putting some masking tape on the table clamp and marking the holes with a sharp pencil and a square and then center punched them and drileld them with a battery drill and then countersink them on the underside with a countersink bit. Ignore the other messy holes, they were from when I initially mounted the wheel base flat but I quickly realized I needed some upwards tilt.
And another random view.
Steel plates are 150x90x12mm and obviously needed some decent kit to tap some nice M6 holes in to in order to mount them to the table clamp (I used a CNC Milling machine but it could be drileld with a pillar drill and tapped by hand), the holes in the side are just plain holes and I used some big washers and M6 capscrews to attach to the T-Nuts in the side of the wheel base.
This is just a prototype at the moment so I imagine I'll make another version with a grid of mounting holes so the wheel base can be moved forward, backwards and up and down.
I found a way to attach the CSL DD on 3 points, if I take the angle-plate off and screw it directly to the base of the table clamp.
Tho, I will loose any angle on it, but then again, this Table Clamp only supported downwards angle, not upwards which is what I need.
There is NO flex at all now :)
I originally did exactky that myself using 4 holes but couldn't quite get comfortable racing with no up-tilt so that's why I made my metal side plates, in fact I redesigned my pedal mount today too so I can now adjust the pedals up, down, forwards backwards and tilt up and down so I'm much happier with my positioning now.