Just here to say that, the problem with my ffb getting weak after pitting or pausing going to race lobby, that I have, in the GT Sport, seems to be gone...
What I done?... changes my wheel, when playing GT Sport, on PS5, to the "COMP PS4" mode. Im not having problems anymore. Just 3 days playing, will play more time this week, and keep guys noted again.
This is happening on PlayStation and in the error case things like buttons, steering, pedals won't work anymore but the FFB and LEDs are still coming in from the game? We are currently working on this.
Yes exactly this is the common issue. I also tried the comp mode the same issue appears.
I listed all the settings and you said you would do a 50%/51% ffb test comparison
I used a screen with the fanatec logo
This happens randomly in game when you step on a collision effect or curb.
This is similar to the shock that occurs at the [FFB] intensity of 51% or more in the fanatec software force feedback test.
[FFB] If the strength is less than 50%, the test is very smooth.
This happens regardless of PEAK or LINEAR
Just 1% difference causes sharp jols and rattles. I think there is definitely a problem with this.
I am using dd2 and using Torque Key
I believe in fanatec. I ordered the v3 pedals, damper kit and SQ1.5 shifter yesterday....
We could now reproduce it and will have a closer look on why and how to fix it.
What I've noticed so far while trying is that INT (interpolation) seems to stop working with 51 and higher. When I set INT to 0, then FF of 50 and 51 have no difference, but when I set INT to 20, then there is a huge difference between 50 and 51.
Hi marcel!! Thank you so much for the help!! I appreciate that someone of the Fanatec team are trying to help.
1- I´m using the last compelte driver, 434 think, from the fanatec website.
2- This is the unique driver I install, since I have bought it in November, and installed it in December.
3- Settings stays the same, nothing happens to the settings. What I tried to mean in that the wheel get weaker, a lot weaker, from my actual FFB configuration.
4- I have Fanatec Podium DD bundle for Ps4/Ps5 - With the actual wheel, the F1 wheel.
5- That I remember, it always shows me low torque.
Yesterday night, as I related here... I changed my base from the mode "PS4/PS5" to "COMP PS4", but I only played for 30 minutes, doing stuff in online lobby, that normally would give the problem that makes the wheel/base to get a weak sense of my FFB configuration. Today, im going to play a lot more, and in the weekend too, so Ill post here what happens, If changing the mode to "COMP PS4" will help me to kill this problem.
Please, be here to help us, and get the notice if changing the mode works for me.
See you, and thanks again.
If it always shows low torque then I guess you don't have to torque key inserted right?
Theoretically PS mode or PS comp mode should not have a different feeling in this regard but let me know if you notice something.
I would not be so sure about that. It is a force that acts on one side of the axle and can therefore damage the bearings. Like a glow ignition in the combustion engine that damages the connecting rod bearings and then it still runs, but rattles.
I've had these "jolts" from the start on my DD1 and they accompany me in all games, AC, ACC, DR, DR 2.0, rFactor 2, Race Room Racing Experience, Automobilista 2, WRC 10, regardless of FFB strength they sometimes appear and that with the standard Fanatec logo on the screen. So it's not a fix for me.
I'm really curious if I can get a new base if the bearings are damaged!?
The jolt introduces a rotation to one side, similar to when you would hit the wall with a car in-game. The jolt won't hurt your base more than any other FFB. The knock is created because of the harsh angular acceleration. The bearings should not be affected by that at all.
This never happened before and I believe I installed every beta. Manually update the wheelbase firmware, still hangs at the end btw., connect an R300 wheel to perform the wheel calibration and the wheel torques to the left. I tried manually updating the Formula v2 wheel like 10 times but that was futile, the wheel starts vibrating and the thing hangs. Have to kill setup with task manager and power cycle the DD2. If you reopen Fanatec Control Panel while the DD2 is in this state it shows no devices found. A few days ago I reported that the torque to one side when you crash stopped. Well that's back. Just crashed running a Rally in Monoro and had to use two hands to keep the wheel from spinning it finally released when the flag dropped on a new rally. Didn't happen at all with 435.
DD2 all the latest firmware manually updated
R300 Podium
Windows 10 21H2 all the latest patches.
Jim Nasium
Do the updates and center calibration work fine again when going back to the last driver you didn't have the issues with?
In case of the center calibration, do I understand it correctly that you clicked the center calibration button in the UI and then the wheel started turning left? Did it to that for a short moment or for longer?
Maurice Böschen is there somewhere any list of all racing games which supports (pc mode) or (comp mode)?
Keep in mind that there is at the moment not any downside of using COMP mode in any game so if you are in doubt you can just keep COMP mode enabled.
If you really want to use PC mode, then give it a try. If it works, keep it. if not, use comp. Some games get regular updates and either have added the CSL DD or will add it. Other games which haven't added it by now might be end of life and won't ever get it, or at least not before the next iteration of the game. But when a new game comes out this year or later, it should support the CSL DD.
I found an old post here on the forum suggesting that tunring DPR to OFF might solve the issue.
Yep, it's the exact same in iRacing where after a big Crash suddenly the DPR channel is active 100% for no reason. Setting DPR to off is also the only solution for that one as well.
Come on Maurice, it's been over two years. It took three years just to invert shifter2 when F1 wheel was connected. I wonder how many years it will take to fix the jolts if it needs so much work to rewrite it. Also Marcel said he will ask and tell ETA for the fix. Did i miss anything?
I got an answer that its hard to estimate how long it will take and if the part they want to re-write will be enough.
It's definitely not forgotten and still very high priority, work is currently ongoing.
I just very recently updated my dd1 to the 435 version.
2 things seem (feel) very wrong.
Firstly - I play multiple sims, and on a lot of them, i keep the AUTO setting usually. Rfactor2 now seems to change the AUTO for every setup, every sim, even in the fanatec drivers, and persists it somewhere.
Example - taking the ferrari 488 gt3 will set the cars wheel to behave 1:1 to your wheel with the auto setting, fine.
Problem is, this will persist into other fanatec "auto" settings for other setups as well.
Switching to the Clio in rFactor2 will change the auto setting again, meaning whatever was 90 degrees, will be 110 degrees now. So the rFactor2 setting will overwrite the fanatec setting completely, and persist.
Only way for me to return it to normal is to reinstall the firmware.
Secondly - Whats the point of "Setup 1"? Something is bugged here, or not explained.
If i customize my "Setup 1", click on "Standard Mode"/"Auto setup", it will completely reset my customization on "Setup 1" to factory default/driver default.
Note: This only happens on "Setup 1" for me.
Seems the AUTO SEN command is not set back to the default when leaving rF2. To workaround this you could use 1080 in the other games like AC
That's the normal behavior, in simple/standard setup there is the custom setup replacing S_1. When going back and forth S_1 will be overwritten by the locked settings of the custom setup. However it's not meant to switch back and forth between standard/advanced. Because the idea is you either are inexperienced and don't want too many settings, so you stay in standard, or you know what you are doing, then you stay in advanced.
Thirdly (added to my previous comment, since i cannot edit it) - i noticed that in iRacing, i have to tune the exact wheel steering angle, to the car.
I used to keep it on "AUTO", id set the 900 degree angle in game for gt3 cars, 1080 for the mazda and it would be 1:1 to my wheel.
Right now, its set to "AUTO", and i see it in game configuring to 1080 degree in every car.
Am i misunderstanding something or?
In iRacing you can keep a constant SEN setting like 1080 and the game will match it to each car after you've correctly calibrated the steering angle in their wizard. iRacing will then apply the correct angle and end stop for each car.
The jolt introduces a rotation to one side, similar to when you would hit the wall with a car in-game. The jolt won't hurt your base more than any other FFB. The knock is created because of the harsh angular acceleration. The bearings should not be affected by that at all.
Thanks for explaining the effect and what is causing the jolts. Now I have a clear and different understanding of it.
Thanks for your hard work! I have always been a fan of FANATEC, using every version of the driver and fanalab software. Last night, I updated the test version of the motor firmware (version number: 42) , turned off the NFR. When the FFB was adjusted to 60%, there would still be abnormal bumping reaction (instantaneous). Even on the straight road, it would still appear, and the shoulder was more obvious, with a strong "click" sound.
Then, I resumed the motor firmware of the driver 436, still turned off the NFR, reduced the FFB to 45%, and ran more than a dozen laps in Spa without any problems (my pedestal screen interface is not the interface with “FANATEC”). I don't know if this will help you? Thank you!
We could now reproduce it and will have a closer look on why and how to fix it.
What I've noticed so far while trying is that INT (interpolation) seems to stop working with 51 and higher. When I set INT to 0, then FF of 50 and 51 have no difference, but when I set INT to 20, then there is a huge difference between 50 and 51.
I also tested by changing the INT value and it matches what Marcel said.
[FFB] INT doesn't seem to work if the intensity is 51 or higher
Fortunately, it happens at [FFB]51 or higher, regardless of PEAK or LINEAR
Therefore, unless it is a problem that occurs above a certain torque, I don't think it's a hardware problem.
thank you for listening to me
Thank you very much for your hard work and i will wait for the issue to be resolved.
I still use a csw v1 with the bmw gt3 rim - yesterday I switched from an older driver to the 434.
WIth both drivers I have a problem in Forza Motorsport 7. The rev leds on the wheel causing game lag. When I turn the engine into the red range the flashing blue led's cause massive frame spikes. The game gets unplayable. When I use a controller I have steady 160fps+ and all frame spikes are gone. I think this bug has also some influence on the game performance at lower car revs but it gets super obvious when the shift flash is on.
An option in the driver to disable the led's would be very helpful as a quick workaround or a profile for fanalab.
I listed all the settings and you said you would do a 50%/51% ffb test comparison
I used a screen with the fanatec logo
This happens randomly in game when you step on a collision effect or curb.
This is similar to the shock that occurs at the [FFB] intensity of 51% or more in the fanatec software force feedback test.
[FFB] If the strength is less than 50%, the test is very smooth.
This happens regardless of PEAK or LINEAR
Just 1% difference causes sharp jols and rattles. I think there is definitely a problem with this.
I am using dd2 and using Torque Key
I believe in fanatec. I ordered the v3 pedals, damper kit and SQ1.5 shifter yesterday....
I tried to retrace the discussion, but still unsure if the problem I observe is the same. I'm using the latest driver (no beta version - so maybe off topic her?) and observe heavy jolts or jerks that feels very strange and unnatural when crossing a border (even with very low speed) and a (more subtle) rattling on a straight. You can hear the sound in this video: https://youtu.be/5OOi9fADQKs (e.g. at 6 sec.). Is this a normal behavior of the CSL DD in ACC when using the recommend settings (from this forum)? For me this feels very strange and annoying - a GT3 car will have a firm feeling, but you will never get such jolt in the steering wheel when crossing with 5 km/h a curb...
Keep in mind that there is at the moment not any downside of using COMP mode in any game so if you are in doubt you can just keep COMP mode enabled.
If you really want to use PC mode, then give it a try. If it works, keep it. if not, use comp. Some games get regular updates and either have added the CSL DD or will add it. Other games which haven't added it by now might be end of life and won't ever get it, or at least not before the next iteration of the game. But when a new game comes out this year or later, it should support the CSL DD.
May I ask whats the point of having PC Mode and COMP mode if there is no downside "at the moment" using COMP mode for every given game. And what could change in the future to make it a "downside" using COMP mode? No offense, just a curious costumer.
I still use a csw v1 with the bmw gt3 rim - yesterday I switched from an older driver to the 434.
WIth both drivers I have a problem in Forza Motorsport 7. The rev leds on the wheel causing game lag. When I turn the engine into the red range the flashing blue led's cause massive frame spikes. The game gets unplayable. When I use a controller I have steady 160fps+ and all frame spikes are gone. I think this bug has also some influence on the game performance at lower car revs but it gets super obvious when the shift flash is on.
An option in the driver to disable the led's would be very helpful as a quick workaround or a profile for fanalab.
PS: It's the same in Forza Horizon 5
No issues for me with Forza 7 or 4(still not playing 5 till Playground fixes support)
I did have similar frame rate jitter awhile back though that sounds like your issue, found out the USB cable turned bad and once I replaced it, all worked perfectly. I’d try swapping the USB and see if it fixes the issue.
Hello. As previously reported AMS2 causes the podium module to freeze after some time. Reproduced multiple times at random times. Log attached:
Wheel Base Model (product ID): DD2
Steering Wheel Model (product ID): Podiuem hub + module
Driver Version: 343
Base FW Version: 690
Motor FW Version: 42
Wheel FW Version: 6
FanaLab Version: 1.61.3
Tuning Menu settings
Driver/FanaLab installed on C: drive or else? C Drive
I reported the exact same issues with CSL DD, podium Hub+PBME (434 or 435 drivers/Fw) in the fanalab forum...
My lasts tests with disabled ITM seems to solve the issue (but really annoying...). More play time in races (offline/online) needed to validate this...
If it always shows low torque then I guess you don't have to torque key inserted right?
Theoretically PS mode or PS comp mode should not have a different feeling in this regard but let me know if you notice something.
@marcel Pfister
Just to let you know, that yesterday my wheel, from nothing, stops to work, it was like paused/locked, with the accelerator at 100%, and the buttons and pedals stops working... I reiniciated the wheel, but it feels with no weight after the problem... the buttons didnt work... To the wheel get to work again, I needed to take off cables and turning wheel off.... then turned on, it works again... ... it happens during a championship training... please guys, you need to take note, and be aware of these console/DD POdium problems, and fix it in the next update... Come on... I payed a high price on the product, and Im very upset, to having these problems... Bought the compatiblee DD for playstation, and im having a lot of trouble... please do something...
Just to let you know, that yesterday my wheel, from nothing, stops to work, it was like paused/locked, with the accelerator at 100%, and the buttons and pedals stops working... I reiniciated the wheel, but it feels with no weight after the problem... the buttons didnt work... To the wheel get to work again, I needed to take off cables and turning wheel off.... then turned on, it works again... ... it happens during a championship training... please guys, you need to take note, and be aware of these console/DD POdium problems, and fix it in the next update... Come on... I payed a high price on the product, and Im very upset, to having these problems... Bought the compatiblee DD for playstation, and im having a lot of trouble... please do something...
I totally agree!!! Slowly I have enough research instead of racing. For 2000 € must work 24h / day withouth any issue !! It's starting to annoy me more and more! I have a lot of races and there is no time to figure out what's wrong, ... I think Fanatec could hire me 😅
No issues for me with Forza 7 or 4(still not playing 5 till Playground fixes support)
I did have similar frame rate jitter awhile back though that sounds like your issue, found out the USB cable turned bad and once I replaced it, all worked perfectly. I’d try swapping the USB and see if it fixes the issue.
Thanks for the tipp. The cable I found in my collection was worse. Are there any requirements/specifications for the cable to meet?
Comments
Just here to say that, the problem with my ffb getting weak after pitting or pausing going to race lobby, that I have, in the GT Sport, seems to be gone...
What I done?... changes my wheel, when playing GT Sport, on PS5, to the "COMP PS4" mode. Im not having problems anymore. Just 3 days playing, will play more time this week, and keep guys noted again.
Yes exactly this is the common issue. I also tried the comp mode the same issue appears.
We could now reproduce it and will have a closer look on why and how to fix it.
What I've noticed so far while trying is that INT (interpolation) seems to stop working with 51 and higher. When I set INT to 0, then FF of 50 and 51 have no difference, but when I set INT to 20, then there is a huge difference between 50 and 51.
If it always shows low torque then I guess you don't have to torque key inserted right?
Theoretically PS mode or PS comp mode should not have a different feeling in this regard but let me know if you notice something.
The jolt introduces a rotation to one side, similar to when you would hit the wall with a car in-game. The jolt won't hurt your base more than any other FFB. The knock is created because of the harsh angular acceleration. The bearings should not be affected by that at all.
Do the updates and center calibration work fine again when going back to the last driver you didn't have the issues with?
In case of the center calibration, do I understand it correctly that you clicked the center calibration button in the UI and then the wheel started turning left? Did it to that for a short moment or for longer?
Keep in mind that there is at the moment not any downside of using COMP mode in any game so if you are in doubt you can just keep COMP mode enabled.
If you really want to use PC mode, then give it a try. If it works, keep it. if not, use comp. Some games get regular updates and either have added the CSL DD or will add it. Other games which haven't added it by now might be end of life and won't ever get it, or at least not before the next iteration of the game. But when a new game comes out this year or later, it should support the CSL DD.
I found an old post here on the forum suggesting that tunring DPR to OFF might solve the issue.
Yep, it's the exact same in iRacing where after a big Crash suddenly the DPR channel is active 100% for no reason. Setting DPR to off is also the only solution for that one as well.
I got an answer that its hard to estimate how long it will take and if the part they want to re-write will be enough.
It's definitely not forgotten and still very high priority, work is currently ongoing.
Sorry that it's not fixed already.
Only in the driver UI or also on games?
In iRacing you can keep a constant SEN setting like 1080 and the game will match it to each car after you've correctly calibrated the steering angle in their wizard. iRacing will then apply the correct angle and end stop for each car.
Hello. As previously reported AMS2 causes the podium module to freeze after some time. Reproduced multiple times at random times. Log attached:
Thanks for explaining the effect and what is causing the jolts. Now I have a clear and different understanding of it.
436
1.61.3
Podium DD1 shows "CAUTION - Steering wheel not supported! Please update the firmware" when attached the Clubsport RS Wheel . Sometimes the DD1
In Fanatec Drivers IU shows "No Steering Wheel attached to base"
No manual driver update available
Fanalab says "Not available"
Hello!
Thanks for your hard work! I have always been a fan of FANATEC, using every version of the driver and fanalab software. Last night, I updated the test version of the motor firmware (version number: 42) , turned off the NFR. When the FFB was adjusted to 60%, there would still be abnormal bumping reaction (instantaneous). Even on the straight road, it would still appear, and the shoulder was more obvious, with a strong "click" sound.
Then, I resumed the motor firmware of the driver 436, still turned off the NFR, reduced the FFB to 45%, and ran more than a dozen laps in Spa without any problems (my pedestal screen interface is not the interface with “FANATEC”). I don't know if this will help you? Thank you!
As you hint me... now I had the torque key inserted... and playing GT Sport in COMP PS$ mode... my p´roblemas are solved for now.,
Will let you know if it happens again.
I also tested by changing the INT value and it matches what Marcel said.
[FFB] INT doesn't seem to work if the intensity is 51 or higher
Fortunately, it happens at [FFB]51 or higher, regardless of PEAK or LINEAR
Therefore, unless it is a problem that occurs above a certain torque, I don't think it's a hardware problem.
thank you for listening to me
Thank you very much for your hard work and i will wait for the issue to be resolved.
I still use a csw v1 with the bmw gt3 rim - yesterday I switched from an older driver to the 434.
WIth both drivers I have a problem in Forza Motorsport 7. The rev leds on the wheel causing game lag. When I turn the engine into the red range the flashing blue led's cause massive frame spikes. The game gets unplayable. When I use a controller I have steady 160fps+ and all frame spikes are gone. I think this bug has also some influence on the game performance at lower car revs but it gets super obvious when the shift flash is on.
An option in the driver to disable the led's would be very helpful as a quick workaround or a profile for fanalab.
PS: It's the same in Forza Horizon 5
It`s a Clubsport RS steering wheel problem. Driver 436 working great with others wheels
I tried to retrace the discussion, but still unsure if the problem I observe is the same. I'm using the latest driver (no beta version - so maybe off topic her?) and observe heavy jolts or jerks that feels very strange and unnatural when crossing a border (even with very low speed) and a (more subtle) rattling on a straight. You can hear the sound in this video: https://youtu.be/5OOi9fADQKs (e.g. at 6 sec.). Is this a normal behavior of the CSL DD in ACC when using the recommend settings (from this forum)? For me this feels very strange and annoying - a GT3 car will have a firm feeling, but you will never get such jolt in the steering wheel when crossing with 5 km/h a curb...
May I ask whats the point of having PC Mode and COMP mode if there is no downside "at the moment" using COMP mode for every given game. And what could change in the future to make it a "downside" using COMP mode? No offense, just a curious costumer.
Glück Auf
No issues for me with Forza 7 or 4(still not playing 5 till Playground fixes support)
I did have similar frame rate jitter awhile back though that sounds like your issue, found out the USB cable turned bad and once I replaced it, all worked perfectly. I’d try swapping the USB and see if it fixes the issue.
Every update is worse and worse...
And how is your comment related to the quote?!
Correct, not at all.
I reported the exact same issues with CSL DD, podium Hub+PBME (434 or 435 drivers/Fw) in the fanalab forum...
My lasts tests with disabled ITM seems to solve the issue (but really annoying...). More play time in races (offline/online) needed to validate this...
@marcel Pfister
Just to let you know, that yesterday my wheel, from nothing, stops to work, it was like paused/locked, with the accelerator at 100%, and the buttons and pedals stops working... I reiniciated the wheel, but it feels with no weight after the problem... the buttons didnt work... To the wheel get to work again, I needed to take off cables and turning wheel off.... then turned on, it works again... ... it happens during a championship training... please guys, you need to take note, and be aware of these console/DD POdium problems, and fix it in the next update... Come on... I payed a high price on the product, and Im very upset, to having these problems... Bought the compatiblee DD for playstation, and im having a lot of trouble... please do something...
I totally agree!!! Slowly I have enough research instead of racing. For 2000 € must work 24h / day withouth any issue !! It's starting to annoy me more and more! I have a lot of races and there is no time to figure out what's wrong, ... I think Fanatec could hire me 😅
Thanks for the tipp. The cable I found in my collection was worse. Are there any requirements/specifications for the cable to meet?