Just here to say that, the problem with my ffb getting weak after pitting or pausing going to race lobby, that I have, in the GT Sport, seems to be gone...
What I done?... changes my wheel, when playing GT Sport, on PS5, to the "COMP PS4" mode. Im not having problems anymore. Just 3 days playing, will play more time this week, and keep guys noted again.
We could now reproduce it and will have a closer look on why and how to fix it.
What I've noticed so far while trying is that INT (interpolation) seems to stop working with 51 and higher. When I set INT to 0, then FF of 50 and 51 have no difference, but when I set INT to 20, then there is a huge difference between 50 and 51.
The jolt introduces a rotation to one side, similar to when you would hit the wall with a car in-game. The jolt won't hurt your base more than any other FFB. The knock is created because of the harsh angular acceleration. The bearings should not be affected by that at all.
Do the updates and center calibration work fine again when going back to the last driver you didn't have the issues with?
In case of the center calibration, do I understand it correctly that you clicked the center calibration button in the UI and then the wheel started turning left? Did it to that for a short moment or for longer?
Keep in mind that there is at the moment not any downside of using COMP mode in any game so if you are in doubt you can just keep COMP mode enabled.
If you really want to use PC mode, then give it a try. If it works, keep it. if not, use comp. Some games get regular updates and either have added the CSL DD or will add it. Other games which haven't added it by now might be end of life and won't ever get it, or at least not before the next iteration of the game. But when a new game comes out this year or later, it should support the CSL DD.
Yep, it's the exact same in iRacing where after a big Crash suddenly the DPR channel is active 100% for no reason. Setting DPR to off is also the only solution for that one as well.
Seems the AUTO SEN command is not set back to the default when leaving rF2. To workaround this you could use 1080 in the other games like AC
That's the normal behavior, in simple/standard setup there is the custom setup replacing S_1. When going back and forth S_1 will be overwritten by the locked settings of the custom setup. However it's not meant to switch back and forth between standard/advanced. Because the idea is you either are inexperienced and don't want too many settings, so you stay in standard, or you know what you are doing, then you stay in advanced.
In iRacing you can keep a constant SEN setting like 1080 and the game will match it to each car after you've correctly calibrated the steering angle in their wizard. iRacing will then apply the correct angle and end stop for each car.
Thanks for your hard work! I have always been a fan of FANATEC, using every version of the driver and fanalab software. Last night, I updated the test version of the motor firmware (version number: 42) , turned off the NFR. When the FFB was adjusted to 60%, there would still be abnormal bumping reaction (instantaneous). Even on the straight road, it would still appear, and the shoulder was more obvious, with a strong "click" sound.
Then, I resumed the motor firmware of the driver 436, still turned off the NFR, reduced the FFB to 45%, and ran more than a dozen laps in Spa without any problems (my pedestal screen interface is not the interface with “FANATEC”). I don't know if this will help you? Thank you!
I still use a csw v1 with the bmw gt3 rim - yesterday I switched from an older driver to the 434.
WIth both drivers I have a problem in Forza Motorsport 7. The rev leds on the wheel causing game lag. When I turn the engine into the red range the flashing blue led's cause massive frame spikes. The game gets unplayable. When I use a controller I have steady 160fps+ and all frame spikes are gone. I think this bug has also some influence on the game performance at lower car revs but it gets super obvious when the shift flash is on.
An option in the driver to disable the led's would be very helpful as a quick workaround or a profile for fanalab.
I tried to retrace the discussion, but still unsure if the problem I observe is the same. I'm using the latest driver (no beta version - so maybe off topic her?) and observe heavy jolts or jerks that feels very strange and unnatural when crossing a border (even with very low speed) and a (more subtle) rattling on a straight. You can hear the sound in this video: https://youtu.be/5OOi9fADQKs (e.g. at 6 sec.). Is this a normal behavior of the CSL DD in ACC when using the recommend settings (from this forum)? For me this feels very strange and annoying - a GT3 car will have a firm feeling, but you will never get such jolt in the steering wheel when crossing with 5 km/h a curb...
May I ask whats the point of having PC Mode and COMP mode if there is no downside "at the moment" using COMP mode for every given game. And what could change in the future to make it a "downside" using COMP mode? No offense, just a curious costumer.
No issues for me with Forza 7 or 4(still not playing 5 till Playground fixes support)
I did have similar frame rate jitter awhile back though that sounds like your issue, found out the USB cable turned bad and once I replaced it, all worked perfectly. I’d try swapping the USB and see if it fixes the issue.
I reported the exact same issues with CSL DD, podium Hub+PBME (434 or 435 drivers/Fw) in the fanalab forum...
My lasts tests with disabled ITM seems to solve the issue (but really annoying...). More play time in races (offline/online) needed to validate this...
Just to let you know, that yesterday my wheel, from nothing, stops to work, it was like paused/locked, with the accelerator at 100%, and the buttons and pedals stops working... I reiniciated the wheel, but it feels with no weight after the problem... the buttons didnt work... To the wheel get to work again, I needed to take off cables and turning wheel off.... then turned on, it works again... ... it happens during a championship training... please guys, you need to take note, and be aware of these console/DD POdium problems, and fix it in the next update... Come on... I payed a high price on the product, and Im very upset, to having these problems... Bought the compatiblee DD for playstation, and im having a lot of trouble... please do something...
I totally agree!!! Slowly I have enough research instead of racing. For 2000 € must work 24h / day withouth any issue !! It's starting to annoy me more and more! I have a lot of races and there is no time to figure out what's wrong, ... I think Fanatec could hire me 😅
Comments
Just here to say that, the problem with my ffb getting weak after pitting or pausing going to race lobby, that I have, in the GT Sport, seems to be gone...
What I done?... changes my wheel, when playing GT Sport, on PS5, to the "COMP PS4" mode. Im not having problems anymore. Just 3 days playing, will play more time this week, and keep guys noted again.
Yes exactly this is the common issue. I also tried the comp mode the same issue appears.
We could now reproduce it and will have a closer look on why and how to fix it.
What I've noticed so far while trying is that INT (interpolation) seems to stop working with 51 and higher. When I set INT to 0, then FF of 50 and 51 have no difference, but when I set INT to 20, then there is a huge difference between 50 and 51.
If it always shows low torque then I guess you don't have to torque key inserted right?
Theoretically PS mode or PS comp mode should not have a different feeling in this regard but let me know if you notice something.
The jolt introduces a rotation to one side, similar to when you would hit the wall with a car in-game. The jolt won't hurt your base more than any other FFB. The knock is created because of the harsh angular acceleration. The bearings should not be affected by that at all.
Do the updates and center calibration work fine again when going back to the last driver you didn't have the issues with?
In case of the center calibration, do I understand it correctly that you clicked the center calibration button in the UI and then the wheel started turning left? Did it to that for a short moment or for longer?
Keep in mind that there is at the moment not any downside of using COMP mode in any game so if you are in doubt you can just keep COMP mode enabled.
If you really want to use PC mode, then give it a try. If it works, keep it. if not, use comp. Some games get regular updates and either have added the CSL DD or will add it. Other games which haven't added it by now might be end of life and won't ever get it, or at least not before the next iteration of the game. But when a new game comes out this year or later, it should support the CSL DD.
I found an old post here on the forum suggesting that tunring DPR to OFF might solve the issue.
Yep, it's the exact same in iRacing where after a big Crash suddenly the DPR channel is active 100% for no reason. Setting DPR to off is also the only solution for that one as well.
I got an answer that its hard to estimate how long it will take and if the part they want to re-write will be enough.
It's definitely not forgotten and still very high priority, work is currently ongoing.
Sorry that it's not fixed already.
Only in the driver UI or also on games?
In iRacing you can keep a constant SEN setting like 1080 and the game will match it to each car after you've correctly calibrated the steering angle in their wizard. iRacing will then apply the correct angle and end stop for each car.
Hello. As previously reported AMS2 causes the podium module to freeze after some time. Reproduced multiple times at random times. Log attached:
Thanks for explaining the effect and what is causing the jolts. Now I have a clear and different understanding of it.
436
1.61.3
Podium DD1 shows "CAUTION - Steering wheel not supported! Please update the firmware" when attached the Clubsport RS Wheel . Sometimes the DD1
In Fanatec Drivers IU shows "No Steering Wheel attached to base"
No manual driver update available
Fanalab says "Not available"
Hello!
Thanks for your hard work! I have always been a fan of FANATEC, using every version of the driver and fanalab software. Last night, I updated the test version of the motor firmware (version number: 42) , turned off the NFR. When the FFB was adjusted to 60%, there would still be abnormal bumping reaction (instantaneous). Even on the straight road, it would still appear, and the shoulder was more obvious, with a strong "click" sound.
Then, I resumed the motor firmware of the driver 436, still turned off the NFR, reduced the FFB to 45%, and ran more than a dozen laps in Spa without any problems (my pedestal screen interface is not the interface with “FANATEC”). I don't know if this will help you? Thank you!
As you hint me... now I had the torque key inserted... and playing GT Sport in COMP PS$ mode... my p´roblemas are solved for now.,
Will let you know if it happens again.
I also tested by changing the INT value and it matches what Marcel said.
[FFB] INT doesn't seem to work if the intensity is 51 or higher
Fortunately, it happens at [FFB]51 or higher, regardless of PEAK or LINEAR
Therefore, unless it is a problem that occurs above a certain torque, I don't think it's a hardware problem.
thank you for listening to me
Thank you very much for your hard work and i will wait for the issue to be resolved.
I still use a csw v1 with the bmw gt3 rim - yesterday I switched from an older driver to the 434.
WIth both drivers I have a problem in Forza Motorsport 7. The rev leds on the wheel causing game lag. When I turn the engine into the red range the flashing blue led's cause massive frame spikes. The game gets unplayable. When I use a controller I have steady 160fps+ and all frame spikes are gone. I think this bug has also some influence on the game performance at lower car revs but it gets super obvious when the shift flash is on.
An option in the driver to disable the led's would be very helpful as a quick workaround or a profile for fanalab.
PS: It's the same in Forza Horizon 5
It`s a Clubsport RS steering wheel problem. Driver 436 working great with others wheels
I tried to retrace the discussion, but still unsure if the problem I observe is the same. I'm using the latest driver (no beta version - so maybe off topic her?) and observe heavy jolts or jerks that feels very strange and unnatural when crossing a border (even with very low speed) and a (more subtle) rattling on a straight. You can hear the sound in this video: https://youtu.be/5OOi9fADQKs (e.g. at 6 sec.). Is this a normal behavior of the CSL DD in ACC when using the recommend settings (from this forum)? For me this feels very strange and annoying - a GT3 car will have a firm feeling, but you will never get such jolt in the steering wheel when crossing with 5 km/h a curb...
May I ask whats the point of having PC Mode and COMP mode if there is no downside "at the moment" using COMP mode for every given game. And what could change in the future to make it a "downside" using COMP mode? No offense, just a curious costumer.
Glück Auf
No issues for me with Forza 7 or 4(still not playing 5 till Playground fixes support)
I did have similar frame rate jitter awhile back though that sounds like your issue, found out the USB cable turned bad and once I replaced it, all worked perfectly. I’d try swapping the USB and see if it fixes the issue.
Every update is worse and worse...
And how is your comment related to the quote?!
Correct, not at all.
I reported the exact same issues with CSL DD, podium Hub+PBME (434 or 435 drivers/Fw) in the fanalab forum...
My lasts tests with disabled ITM seems to solve the issue (but really annoying...). More play time in races (offline/online) needed to validate this...
@marcel Pfister
Just to let you know, that yesterday my wheel, from nothing, stops to work, it was like paused/locked, with the accelerator at 100%, and the buttons and pedals stops working... I reiniciated the wheel, but it feels with no weight after the problem... the buttons didnt work... To the wheel get to work again, I needed to take off cables and turning wheel off.... then turned on, it works again... ... it happens during a championship training... please guys, you need to take note, and be aware of these console/DD POdium problems, and fix it in the next update... Come on... I payed a high price on the product, and Im very upset, to having these problems... Bought the compatiblee DD for playstation, and im having a lot of trouble... please do something...
I totally agree!!! Slowly I have enough research instead of racing. For 2000 € must work 24h / day withouth any issue !! It's starting to annoy me more and more! I have a lot of races and there is no time to figure out what's wrong, ... I think Fanatec could hire me 😅
Thanks for the tipp. The cable I found in my collection was worse. Are there any requirements/specifications for the cable to meet?