Any good DriveHub Racing Wheel Converter settings
William Hanoman
Member
in Gran Turismo
Any good DriveHub Racing Wheel Converter settings for DD since it’s not compatible with PS4/ps5 ?
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use it @PS5/PS4 you also will need a wired PS4 Controller Licensed by Sony (look for Horipad Mini).
I have it but I’m struggling with finding the right setting I can’t stand this wobble in the center it’s disgusting just got my ps5 for GT7. And iv had my DD for a while I just think it’s crazy i need a converter to make my very expensive wheel appear as a Logitech 🥲
Iv made some really good setting but can’t find away to get rid of this wobble
whatever this wobble means :) ... Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1 is the lowest possibility ... l8ter I try the latest Gran Turismo 7 (PS4/PS5) - Fanatec Recommended Settings
I have this it all works fine csl dd with the drivehub on ps5 in gt7 APART from when you hold wheel perfectly straight, I did not have this in gt sport, I have tried tweaking turning settings like damper or spring, but I still get the issue, tweaking spring and putting it in linear instead of peak helps a little, but then the rest of the ffb feels tepid, I am guessing drivehub will release a patch for this, will post on collective minds forum and see what they say
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You need to press the buttons mapped for share and options for aprox. 10 seconds. On the Oled of your wheel it should show "L" or "F" for the mode you just selected.
Fmode worked
Thanks for this, I had seen people saying about switching modes and thought the yellow / green / red on power was what they were talking about, I will give F mode a go, 😊
Greetings all. So I've got GT7 on PS5. I've got the DriveHub with the latest firmware that was available for GT Sport. I also use...
CSW v2.5
F1 2020 or BMW steering wheels
The original CSL Elite with LC brake pedals (aka not the new ones)
(Note: I always use the DriveHub with the CSW v2.5 wheelbase in Red / PC mode. If I'm supposed to use PS4 or Compatibility modes, that's news to me.)
And I don't use the "telephone" cable to connect my brake pedals. It was unreliable when I first got the pedals, occasionally dropping out in the middle of a race in iRacing, etc. Fanatec wanted me to send them video of the problem, so I hooked up the USB cable instead and NEVER had a dropout again. So when I use my setup with my PS5, I unplug the "pedals" from the accessory port on the DriveHub. I then power on the PS5, once that's at the "main screen", I power on the CSW wheel base (always turns on in the Red / PC mode). I wait for that calibrate and to see CS2-50 show up on the DriveHub twice. Then I hold the bottom two "outside" buttons on my BMW rim or F1 2020 rim for about 5 seconds, until I see "Controller Disconnected" at the top of the page. This usually signals I've switched from Logitech mode with the DriveHub, to Fanatec mode. I then plug my pedals into the Drive Hub, I get a reverse C, then "7-30" message just once. At this point, I can use the controls on the rim to move around my PS5 and start GT7.
Most of the basics work fine in this mode (note, I'm using PERFORMANCE mode for my GPU... since the reviews said Lens Flare is nice... but not worth dropped frame rates). But when I go to do License Tests... I only get to do one or two "tries" before the game shows my throttle is still working (goes up and down on the "dash" / screen, but the car doesn't go forward when the 3-2-1 goes to "Start". I can see I'm in 1st gear, and I'm applying throttle, but the car doesn't move an inch. And no amount of "retry" or anything fixes it. If I go back to the PS5 menu and kill the game, turn off the wheel base, and re-connect from scratch... it works fine in the Cafe runs and such. But if I go back to License Tests... one maybe two... then I can't drive the car again.
So F mode works but it introduces the stutter I have seen people commenting on, BUT that only seems to manifest in replay and some interstitial video content, weirdly if you yank the wheel usb cable out of the drive hub, it goes away instantly, as soon as you re connect it starts dropping frames, I have no idea what could be causing that.
Tldr: thank you for bringing my attention to the start / share 10 second switch over for the wheel, F mode totally removes the weird centered wheel vibration.
Gt 7 is fabulous with the csl dd and a drivehub, so much fun.
I have absolutely no idea what this post has to do with the OP?????
you press them on wheel or controller? the issue is gone then when you wheel shows "F"?
what does "L" or "F" mode means ?? Yesterday I tested the latest beta 2.08 from DriveHub ... no differences to 2.07 Release
I press them on wheel an hold them pressed for around 10 sec. L means Logitech mode and F Fanatec mode.
ah ... ClubSport Wheel Formula V2.5 X shows "1" or "2" .... "2" is with "wobbling" but "1" has ab bit weaker FFB and a bit lag ... but led's & speed display works :) But steering feels a bit more directly staying blind with wobbling the middle :/
Some older firmware on the DH showed 1 or 2 on the wheel when switching modes using Share and Option buttons held down. 1=F and 2 =L. this has been fixed in later DH fw release. F emulates a Fanatec CSL elite wheelbase to the game and L emulates a Logitech G27. In F mode various issues exist. I’ve not seen the stuttering, but the game runs slower, not Frame rate per se, just drives slower on my CSW v2. In L mode there is some wheel rocking at high speeds, but game speed seems better.
F mode is better in the other PS4/5 games imo. GTSport ran fine w it but there was some weirdness at full rotation sometimes
maybe a fix will come ... I'm back to DriveHub FW 2.07 Release
1)I am running a drive hub with the gt3 rim and a CSWv2.0 and the PS5 - been trying to toggle between the L and F modes without success - there appear to be 2 raised buttons on the gt3 rim that map to share and options buttons but when I push them nothing happens - am i doing something wrong and should u do it with the PS5 on or off?
2)Actually trying to make sure I am selecting the F mode as I am having some issues getting the drive hub to work with ACC(asseto corsa) and GT7 - am finding on some race tracks at certain points am loosing ffb completely (the wheel seems to be switching off for a few seconds) - note it improves a little if I update the firmware but still have issues with the latest beta firmware - anyone any ideas what might be causing this?