It would be significantly less for me since I just started using Fanalab and don't have any car specific profiles (do want to try out the ones you created for Automobilista 2 at some point though).
If I want to keep using AUTO, can the issues be avoided by restarting PC and/or wheelbase after using AUTO?
This still sounds a lot like a USB issue. If the steering angle is getting stuck like in your video then its not an issue of the connection between steering wheel and base but of the connection between base and PC.
Do you use any extensions or hubs? If yes try without them.
Does the cable look damaged? If you have another USB C cable you could try if it makes a difference.
Do you have a lot of USB plugged in at the same time and could you try if it makes a difference with only the base connected?
Do you have other USB ports you can try? For example switching from USB 3.0 to 2.0 or the other way around or switching from Front usb to directly on the mainboard and so on.
I think you've mentioned that you have checked the boxes in device manager to not allow power saving of USB. Maybe have another look to make sure its done for the correct device by unplugging everything and making sure its the CSL DD.
Thanks for the info, then this seems another different issue than the other guy has.
You mention that you are using it in combination with bolts. Does that mean you are using the extra fixation screw to bolt the wheel side QR into the base side QR? If so, do you first tighten the bolt or the big golden ring to compress the rubber? You should first compress the rubber and only after that put in the bolt because otherwise putting in the bolt will force the QR out of the middle position trying to bend it.
I'm not sure anymore if I asked it before but have you already tried to use the downgrade feature of the driver to go back to an older firmware version and see if it still happens then or not?
I will explain again I am a person who knows a lot about software and hardware and I am not doing things wrong I am not so stupid not to have restarted the pc. I have tried everything possible to install a firmware that works on my DD2 the only firmware that works for me en: V30 base V662 wireles quick release V6 engine.
the new updates and following Driver do not work leave me without Force feedback. everything else works (WHEEL PEDALS BUTTONS SENSOR) done absolutely everything: I have reinstalled Windows I have changed USB ports, I have uninstalled all the devices from the menu, I have reinstalled all the drivers, I have deleted all the records, check the qr by removing it by disconnecting it, leaving everything disconnected for 48 hours. but none of this works I just do not have Force feedback with new firmware Therefore I cannot and use my new m3 gt2 V2 steering wheel since the firmware with which it works for me is from 2019 and the steering wheel is 2021 I need you to please give me a solution or Failing that, give me a new one, the base simply stops working with the updates. As you can see in my profile, I have made many purchases from your company and I have never had a problem except for this base.
I tired rolling the driver back but the crashing continued to the point where it completely bricked the PC. I had to do a complete wipe of windows and reinstall EVERYTHING.
And now, having spent 10+ hours getting everything installed again, first test with 447 on AC/CM and the shifters crash after 5 laps. This is a bug that hasn't happened for sometime. 443 was far more stable a firmware than 447.
this not correct. I only drive rFactor2 - and no other sims! - and have the problem with SEN AUTO.
It worked perfectly with driver 443, since upgraded to 447 it no longer works, only if I fix the wheelrange in the tuning menu. So it can´t only by switching various games.
Devices I use are CSL DD, CSL Elite Pedals LC, Shifter.
Installed driver and software fine.
Tried updating firmware, but it kept freezing on after the countdown prompt. Solution for this was to power off wheel and update Pedals, which initiated fine. Firmware was erased, then update froze and stopped responding. CSL DD has now done the same thing - firmware update process initiated, firmware erasure completed, and then the update froze/stopped responding.
I am now the proud owner of a Bricked CSL DD, and Bricked CSL Elite Pedals LC.
Well done guys, you've really knocked this one out of the park.
This was going to be the first time I'd used my wheel for months.
Unfortunately I don't have time to spend hours looking for a solution right now, and I'm pretty fucked off too.
Some how it's all working now, or at least detected. I have not tried the devices out yet, but I will later on.
I started the wheel in bootloader mode and it completed the firmware upgrade. The pedals also completed the upgrade, but I have no idea what I actually did.
It was not my intend to make you feel "stupid" or else, I just wanted to give tips on what might help or be good to try to learn more about the issue you have and we can't reproduce so far.
You answered a lot of questions in this text but I'm still missing if you have tried my suggestion:
It's not a direct copy and a direct copy is also not needed. Some of the improvements the P DD got the CSL DD already had and some issues the P DD had weren't the case for the CSL DD. It's still high priority to solve the currently known issues of the CSL DD and we are working on them, I don't have an ETA on the update yet though.
Sorry that you were having those update issues. I'm glad that you've managed to get them un-bricked. If you have issues again, let me know and I'll try to help.
Maybe there was an issue with the USB connection being instable when you first tried.
Are you guys going to fix the disconnects with PS4 and FFB spikes with the CSL DD, or are fixes only reserved for people who buy your top-tier products?
Think you mean GT DD Pro? For the GT DD Pro there are no known issues for PS4 disconnects. There is only a known issue for the GT DD Pro where the Inputs to the Playstation can freeze and yes, there is a fix for that issue for the next Firmware.
The steering input jump, which can result in a Jolt, is planned to be fixed for both Podium DD and CSL / GT DD Pro as you can read in the first post in the Known issues.
So you see, fixes are not only reserved for the top-tier products.
Users of the lower tier products are being treated equitably to those owners of higher tier products. In other words, you are expected to wait patiently for years and be placated by the assurance that Fanatec are working on a fix. Resolution will be included in a future release "soon"™.🤣
It's in no way a widespread issue which affects everyone but actually it only affects you so it's more likely that something is not right on your end...
Did you tried a different USB cable and different USB Port of the Playstation?
The PlayStation related disconnect got fixed for the GT DD Pro and should not happen anymore. At least several confirmed the fix, we didn't get much feedback on it still happening so far and in internal testing the connection stays stable over days while before we could reproduce fixes regularly.
Can you explain in more detail how the issue appears to you, on which firmware version you are and what you've already tried. For example are you using any extension cables or hubs?
Can you please also describe the FFB spikes you are having?
It's not true that we handle the top tier products with priority, the CSL DD got fixes with pretty much all drivers so far and we even still fix issues or improve things with even older, lower tier products. The last update concentrated on the P DD because there were a lot of overdue fixes to be made as it had more issues than the CSL DD before that update. There were also fixes witch the GT DD got first and the P DD after.
I now see that working on the PlayStation related disconnect fix for the Podium DD brought some new findings and those changes were now also applied to the GT DD firmware.
Marcel - it was a joke. I said all products were updated at the same rate. The joke was that the Podium fixes took a long time, likely the CSL fixes will take equally long. Lost in translation, or not funny because it is true, who knows.
When using Fanatec DD1/DD2/CSL DD/DD pro wheelbases to drifting, there are two unbearable drawbacks:
1. for the lock-to-lock feeling, it feels laggy and bogged when reaching the soft lock. For example, if we use 900deg, when you want the steering wheel to move from +380 to -450, the speed will gradually slow down in the range around -430 to -460 with a spring/damper mixed effects, to be more realistic this should be stopped at wheel lock(exactly 450deg).
when counter-steering, Fanatec algorithm would be slower if you compare it with Simucube, Simagic and the rest of openFFB DD. It starts from -460 to -420 and gradually speeds up(again, not instantly full speed, slower than a real car and other wheel bases), somehow inaccurate and will make the driver slower.
The Simucube user has a feature called 'Bumpstop' to adjust this, and is way better than Fanatec's hardcoded one here for drifting, could you please consider adding a similar feature? at least provide levels to adjust it? (soft, middle, hard. Or slow, normal, fast)
2. for the old bug(from 2019 dd1 release to ver 447, today), when counter-steering with the large angle in drifting(which is normal operation), the wheelbase would crash in the middle of the wheel spin and generates one huge cluck noise. You can easily reproduce it in Assetto Corsa: playground map, by using any drifting car to do a large angle drifting (say -450deg to +450 counter-steering).
I guess these are not that hard to solve, could you please consider prioritizing those features?
Regards,
Lin
PS: for impl,😏
1. for the soft-lock function, we could preset 3 levels of parameters, not too much additional complexity for the end user and brings a lot of flexibility, and, it's a lifesaver for the drifter. (testing&dev easy)
2. for the 'old high-speed counter steering crash noise bug', I assume this must be highly coupled with the motor self-protection mechanism or something else related to the FFB algorithm, the debugging maybe painful but, it's worth taking a look.
😀
Testing parameters for refer(drifting):
Device: for example Fanatec DD1
FFB: PEAK, FF 20%, Deg 900 or 1080, NDP 5%, NFR 0%, NIN 0%, INT 2%, FEI 100%, FOR 100%, SPR 100%, DPR 100%.
Plugin: Not use FanaLab
Game: Assetto Corsa
Game Parameter: Default gain 100%, without in car changing, without software 'soft lock', without FFB extra postprocessing.
Map: Playground or Kuno drift
Driver: from day1 2019 DD1 release to today --- ver 447
Comments
I have changed all my 200+ profiles in FanaLab to not use SEN AUTO anymore, yes.
It would be significantly less for me since I just started using Fanalab and don't have any car specific profiles (do want to try out the ones you created for Automobilista 2 at some point though).
If I want to keep using AUTO, can the issues be avoided by restarting PC and/or wheelbase after using AUTO?
This still sounds a lot like a USB issue. If the steering angle is getting stuck like in your video then its not an issue of the connection between steering wheel and base but of the connection between base and PC.
Do you use any extensions or hubs? If yes try without them.
Does the cable look damaged? If you have another USB C cable you could try if it makes a difference.
Do you have a lot of USB plugged in at the same time and could you try if it makes a difference with only the base connected?
Do you have other USB ports you can try? For example switching from USB 3.0 to 2.0 or the other way around or switching from Front usb to directly on the mainboard and so on.
I think you've mentioned that you have checked the boxes in device manager to not allow power saving of USB. Maybe have another look to make sure its done for the correct device by unplugging everything and making sure its the CSL DD.
Thanks for the info, then this seems another different issue than the other guy has.
You mention that you are using it in combination with bolts. Does that mean you are using the extra fixation screw to bolt the wheel side QR into the base side QR? If so, do you first tighten the bolt or the big golden ring to compress the rubber? You should first compress the rubber and only after that put in the bolt because otherwise putting in the bolt will force the QR out of the middle position trying to bend it.
I'm not sure anymore if I asked it before but have you already tried to use the downgrade feature of the driver to go back to an older firmware version and see if it still happens then or not?
I will explain again I am a person who knows a lot about software and hardware and I am not doing things wrong I am not so stupid not to have restarted the pc. I have tried everything possible to install a firmware that works on my DD2 the only firmware that works for me en: V30 base V662 wireles quick release V6 engine.
the new updates and following Driver do not work leave me without Force feedback. everything else works (WHEEL PEDALS BUTTONS SENSOR) done absolutely everything: I have reinstalled Windows I have changed USB ports, I have uninstalled all the devices from the menu, I have reinstalled all the drivers, I have deleted all the records, check the qr by removing it by disconnecting it, leaving everything disconnected for 48 hours. but none of this works I just do not have Force feedback with new firmware Therefore I cannot and use my new m3 gt2 V2 steering wheel since the firmware with which it works for me is from 2019 and the steering wheel is 2021 I need you to please give me a solution or Failing that, give me a new one, the base simply stops working with the updates. As you can see in my profile, I have made many purchases from your company and I have never had a problem except for this base.
Then it's time to contact the support as it's very likely a hardware issue of the base.
I tired rolling the driver back but the crashing continued to the point where it completely bricked the PC. I had to do a complete wipe of windows and reinstall EVERYTHING.
And now, having spent 10+ hours getting everything installed again, first test with 447 on AC/CM and the shifters crash after 5 laps. This is a bug that hasn't happened for sometime. 443 was far more stable a firmware than 447.
Weird, as 443 had the same Firmware than 447...
Hi Maurice,
this not correct. I only drive rFactor2 - and no other sims! - and have the problem with SEN AUTO.
It worked perfectly with driver 443, since upgraded to 447 it no longer works, only if I fix the wheelrange in the tuning menu. So it can´t only by switching various games.
Greetz
Patrick
Then... Dont use SEN AUTO until the fix was implemented into the SDK and the game got an update to include this new SDK.
I tightened the bolts first and did the rubber compression (golden ring)
After listening to your words, I did the rubber compression (golden ring) first and then tightened the bolts.
Now let's test it for a few days to see if it happens again.
I have no desire to go back to the old firmware because the symptoms are intermittent and the old firmware has a jolt.
But if the symptom still occurs, I'll try the test with an older firmware.
New Windows 11 install.
Devices I use are CSL DD, CSL Elite Pedals LC, Shifter.
Installed driver and software fine.
Tried updating firmware, but it kept freezing on after the countdown prompt. Solution for this was to power off wheel and update Pedals, which initiated fine. Firmware was erased, then update froze and stopped responding. CSL DD has now done the same thing - firmware update process initiated, firmware erasure completed, and then the update froze/stopped responding.
I am now the proud owner of a Bricked CSL DD, and Bricked CSL Elite Pedals LC.
Well done guys, you've really knocked this one out of the park.
This was going to be the first time I'd used my wheel for months.
Unfortunately I don't have time to spend hours looking for a solution right now, and I'm pretty fucked off too.
It's just frozen.
Some how it's all working now, or at least detected. I have not tried the devices out yet, but I will later on.
I started the wheel in bootloader mode and it completed the firmware upgrade. The pedals also completed the upgrade, but I have no idea what I actually did.
@Marcel
When are you going to put the DD changes in csldd/ddpro? we have been waiting for months for it :-) even if it is a beta so we can test it
It was not my intend to make you feel "stupid" or else, I just wanted to give tips on what might help or be good to try to learn more about the issue you have and we can't reproduce so far.
You answered a lot of questions in this text but I'm still missing if you have tried my suggestion:
It's not a direct copy and a direct copy is also not needed. Some of the improvements the P DD got the CSL DD already had and some issues the P DD had weren't the case for the CSL DD. It's still high priority to solve the currently known issues of the CSL DD and we are working on them, I don't have an ETA on the update yet though.
Sorry that you were having those update issues. I'm glad that you've managed to get them un-bricked. If you have issues again, let me know and I'll try to help.
Maybe there was an issue with the USB connection being instable when you first tried.
Are you guys going to fix the disconnects with PS4 and FFB spikes with the CSL DD, or are fixes only reserved for people who buy your top-tier products?
The CSL DD is not Playstation compatible?
Think you mean GT DD Pro? For the GT DD Pro there are no known issues for PS4 disconnects. There is only a known issue for the GT DD Pro where the Inputs to the Playstation can freeze and yes, there is a fix for that issue for the next Firmware.
The steering input jump, which can result in a Jolt, is planned to be fixed for both Podium DD and CSL / GT DD Pro as you can read in the first post in the Known issues.
So you see, fixes are not only reserved for the top-tier products.
Users of the lower tier products are being treated equitably to those owners of higher tier products. In other words, you are expected to wait patiently for years and be placated by the assurance that Fanatec are working on a fix. Resolution will be included in a future release "soon"™.🤣
Well then I'm here to tell you with absolute certainty that the GT DD (Pro) will disconnect from the PS4 for no reason whatsoever.
I've had it happen 3 times before F1 2021 could even finish loading. I've yet to have it occur during a race, thankfully.
It is intermittent, but it is in no way a phantom issue that doesn't exist.
It's in no way a widespread issue which affects everyone but actually it only affects you so it's more likely that something is not right on your end...
Did you tried a different USB cable and different USB Port of the Playstation?
The PlayStation related disconnect got fixed for the GT DD Pro and should not happen anymore. At least several confirmed the fix, we didn't get much feedback on it still happening so far and in internal testing the connection stays stable over days while before we could reproduce fixes regularly.
Can you explain in more detail how the issue appears to you, on which firmware version you are and what you've already tried. For example are you using any extension cables or hubs?
Can you please also describe the FFB spikes you are having?
It's not true that we handle the top tier products with priority, the CSL DD got fixes with pretty much all drivers so far and we even still fix issues or improve things with even older, lower tier products. The last update concentrated on the P DD because there were a lot of overdue fixes to be made as it had more issues than the CSL DD before that update. There were also fixes witch the GT DD got first and the P DD after.
I now see that working on the PlayStation related disconnect fix for the Podium DD brought some new findings and those changes were now also applied to the GT DD firmware.
@Jason Cavanaugh I've sent you a PM then you can give it a try.
Marcel - it was a joke. I said all products were updated at the same rate. The joke was that the Podium fixes took a long time, likely the CSL fixes will take equally long. Lost in translation, or not funny because it is true, who knows.
@Marcel Pfister
Regarding the SEN Auto issue - If I want to keep using AUTO, can the issues be avoided by restarting PC and/or wheelbase after using AUTO?
Thank you!
Feature Request😹:
Dear Developer,
When using Fanatec DD1/DD2/CSL DD/DD pro wheelbases to drifting, there are two unbearable drawbacks:
1. for the lock-to-lock feeling, it feels laggy and bogged when reaching the soft lock. For example, if we use 900deg, when you want the steering wheel to move from +380 to -450, the speed will gradually slow down in the range around -430 to -460 with a spring/damper mixed effects, to be more realistic this should be stopped at wheel lock(exactly 450deg).
when counter-steering, Fanatec algorithm would be slower if you compare it with Simucube, Simagic and the rest of openFFB DD. It starts from -460 to -420 and gradually speeds up(again, not instantly full speed, slower than a real car and other wheel bases), somehow inaccurate and will make the driver slower.
The Simucube user has a feature called 'Bumpstop' to adjust this, and is way better than Fanatec's hardcoded one here for drifting, could you please consider adding a similar feature? at least provide levels to adjust it? (soft, middle, hard. Or slow, normal, fast)
2. for the old bug(from 2019 dd1 release to ver 447, today), when counter-steering with the large angle in drifting(which is normal operation), the wheelbase would crash in the middle of the wheel spin and generates one huge cluck noise. You can easily reproduce it in Assetto Corsa: playground map, by using any drifting car to do a large angle drifting (say -450deg to +450 counter-steering).
I guess these are not that hard to solve, could you please consider prioritizing those features?
Regards,
Lin
PS: for impl,😏
1. for the soft-lock function, we could preset 3 levels of parameters, not too much additional complexity for the end user and brings a lot of flexibility, and, it's a lifesaver for the drifter. (testing&dev easy)
2. for the 'old high-speed counter steering crash noise bug', I assume this must be highly coupled with the motor self-protection mechanism or something else related to the FFB algorithm, the debugging maybe painful but, it's worth taking a look.
😀
Testing parameters for refer(drifting):
Device: for example Fanatec DD1
FFB: PEAK, FF 20%, Deg 900 or 1080, NDP 5%, NFR 0%, NIN 0%, INT 2%, FEI 100%, FOR 100%, SPR 100%, DPR 100%.
Plugin: Not use FanaLab
Game: Assetto Corsa
Game Parameter: Default gain 100%, without in car changing, without software 'soft lock', without FFB extra postprocessing.
Map: Playground or Kuno drift
Driver: from day1 2019 DD1 release to today --- ver 447
for point 2. bug, try counter steering without your hands holding it, it will 100% repro the bug.
Hi, please release fix for turning wheel to one side on CSL DD ASAP - literally can`t play for 2 minutes as wheel turning to one side
Wont affect regular driving, only is an issue when you open the game Menu. So... Dont open the game Menu every 2 minutes :D