Can anyone help me?
I got the CSL DD with 8 Nm and I have to set the FFB strength in driver to 100% and in game to 150 and the FFB is still not as heavy as I would expect it with those settings.
Is my CSL DD broken?
Does it feel weak with other games as well? Post all your game and wheel settings here so people can have a look at them and potentially spot the problem.
This is a bit is out of date, What about FFS, NIN and INT?
the CSL DD is not broken. it's the game that provides only weak FFB. Not enough to wrap your arms off
No recommended settings for CSL DD? :(
Is there a list of recommended FFB setting for the DD Pro 8nm?? Cant seem to find it. And also if it should be set to compability mode or pc mode?
There are no Settings for CSL DD and GT DD PRO yet, no.
Also both bases need to run Compatibility Mode because the game is end of life for a long time already and did not got a game patch anymore to support both bases natively.
And because the game is so long EOL already, its unlikely that recommended settings will be provided for this old game.
"And because the game is so long EOL already, its unlikely that recommended settings will be provided for this old game."
I could maybe see that being the case for an older game that has since gotten a sequel, like AMS1 or PCARS 1 or 2, but DR2.0 is still today a very popular game that I'm sure a lot of people would appreciate having official recommended settings for, that they can use with their expensive new sim equipment they've bought.
Besides, if Assetto Corsa was released in 2014 and has gotten an update here for CSL DD recommended settings: https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/629/assetto-corsa-pc-fanatec-recommended-settings/p1 then there's no reason DR2.0 (released in 2019) should be considered "too old" to receive the same treatment.
first thanks for the work you do with the new driver 443, update right now and no problem dd1ps4 and ring porsche 911GT3 R all correct. I know it does not correspond here but it is not wrong to mention it.
With this change of writing it would not be convenient to make some change in your good profiles like this dirt 2.0.
Thanks a greeting
I know these aren't "official" settings, but since we clearly won't be getting any from Fanatec for the CSL DD / GT DD Pro, I thought I'd share my settings, which I am pretty happy with how they feel.
(CSL DD 5Nm, McLaren GT3 v2 wheel, driver 439)
SEN 360 (probably want to go higher if using a round, non-formula style rim)
BLI (User Preference)
Force Feedback Override Enabled
Vibration & Feedback On
Self Aligning Torque 70
Wheel Friction 15
Tire Friction 30
(Tire Slip 100)
Soft Lock 100
Steering Center Force Enabled On
Steering Center Force 50
The way to play Dirt Rally 2.0 with the correct degree of wheel rotation is to set Soft Lock to 150.
Each car has different degrees of rotation of both the steering wheel and the wheels. Setting a fixed rotation value is fundamentally wrong. There will be cars that are too sensitive while others with too slow steering.
If car A has 540° steering, and a wheel rotation of 18°, 18° to the right and 18° to the left, while car B has a 1080° steering rotation, and the wheels rotate 36°, which of the two will have the most sensitive steering? The answer is that they will both have the exact same sensitivity. Both cars have a steering ratio of 15, which means that you need to turn the steering wheel 15° to get a 1° angle on the wheels. With car B it will be easier to park in the Ikea square, but I would say that it is not important. The steering sensitivity is the same, except that car B can steer the wheels more, but we will never use the greater steering in a rally, where cars are cornered with load transfer.
Now, if we use a fixed rotation of 540° for both cars, car A will be perfect, but B will become a kind of crazy Kart. Conversely, using 1080 for both cars A will drive too much steering.
So, to get the right steering ratio for each car, I recommend setting SEN = 1080 on the steering wheel, doing the calibration in the game and setting SOFT LOCK = 150.
At this point, get into the car, and you will notice how the real steering is perfectly synchronized with the virtual one you see on the screen. If there is no synchronization, you will need to perform the in-game steering calibration again.
Okay, try the cars, now they have all the right sensitivities. If you are a fan of realism at all costs, that's fine, and that's the way it should be. But...
What do you say? You only have one formula wheel and can't really rotate your wheel that much? Do you want a 270° rotation?
Fortunately, it is possible to adjust the sensitivity, not of just one car, but of all the cars in the game at the same time.
Enter the options of the steering wheel and the tab where you adjust the parameters of the axes, lower the maximum rotation, from 100 to 50. Now, any car that has a 540° steering wheel, will have a maximum rotation of 270°. And the interesting thing is that the virtual steering wheel will still be synchronized with yours! Very comfortable to play with the McLaren or formula steering wheel. Older cars will have more steering degrees, but as already explained you will never use them during special stages. You will drive all cars with roughly the same sensitivity. Probably the RallyKart will be a little too direct.
By setting 67, you will have most cars with 360°, 78 equals 420°, while 83 brings the rotation to 450° (the value I use), 89 equals 480°.
I'm using the DD pro and can't find any settings, I assume we just use the club sport 2.5 settings and use compatibility mode?
I'll update the post once I have some working settings and share them seeing as there isn't really anything clear here.
Feel free to try my settings which I posted a couple of posts earlier for the CSL DD, which for all intents and purposes is identical to the GT DD Pro. They should make for a decent starting point, at least in my opinion.
There are a couple of things to know about DR2 though.
The first is that the simulation was born for gravel. You will never find a decent feeling on asphalt. There are no forces, it seems to float, it's something you don't notice with a Logitech, where the torque is low, but with a Fanatec it becomes awkward. The only thing you can do is raise the Natural Dumper to get some steering wheel texture, or use the steering wheel friction play options. Lower the height of cars to a minimum and stiffen the car's shock absorbers, springs and suspension.
So NDP = 25, FF, FEI, FOR, SPR, DPR, all at 100, INT = 2, NFR and NIN at 0.
Now the most important thing. SEN = 1080.
You have to let the game choose the degrees of rotation. I discovered this trick on a forum, unfortunately it's been too long time and I can't tell which forum it was. The way to enable the function to get the right degrees of steering wheel rotation is to enable Soft Lock. And this is normal, it just doesn't work on some steering wheels! It definitely didn't work with mine, and I suspect on many, perhaps all Fanatecs. I can't say this, but it would explain why every Fanatec guy uses "exotic" values for SEN. The Logitech guys plug in the wheel and play. This made a difference for me, I no longer regret the G29.
The trick is to set Soft Lock to 150.
This unlocks soft lock. Set SEN = 1080 and in game Soft Lock = 150. Then calibrate the steering wheel. It is important to re-calibrate the steering wheel, even if you have done so before. Game calibration must also be 1080.
Now enter the free game and choose an R5 car (540°). Choose the cockpit view. This ensures that the real wheel and the virtual wheel are synchronized. Pull the handbrake and when you're in control, steer all the way to the right. You will see that the steering wheel will lock at 270 ° with a violent impact. Do the same thing on the left. Now pause the game, go to the options and lower the Soft Lock value to the ones you prefer. I use 60.
Now every car has the right degree of rotation. If you want faster and more direct steering, go to the steering wheel settings and lower the Steering Saturation value. I use 83. You can also turn it up if you prefer a longer and more precise steering.
These cars are driven with very little steering, meaning that the front wheels have to steer very little. If you go to the official WRC website you will notice that drivers hardly exceed 60 ° of steering while driving. Only after accidents do they use the entire steering wheel to get back on the road. Typically 540° for modern rally cars. These cars are driven by taking advantage of load transfer. Using all the steering, even in the hairpin bends just means you failed to properly slide the car in full control.
A lot of ACC cars have 540 degrees of steering, some more. Many play with formula steering wheels and all with real steering degrees, and no one complains that they can't use all of the steering wheel. On the contrary, everyone is complaining about Dirt Rally 2.0.
These are my settings for DD Pro in compatible mode (yellow) and works well, feels better than my csl elite did!
Remember to calibrate in game as well. Also try FFB of 70 depending on the car. If you don't want to use 550 sensitivity (wheel rotation) then you can leave at 1080 and then set in game saturation to 50 instead of the default 100 in advanced settings in game.
Hi, I have a DD PRO GT (8nm) and it's my first Fanatec Wheel. I bought the DD PRO Gt version because I have a PS5 and it the future I want to play GT7, but for now i'm on PC with Dirt Rally 2.0. I read a lot of discussion about DD PRO GT on PC on Dirt Rally but now I'm a little confused. I understand that there is no "perfect" settings, but I found too different settings.
Everyone has their own settings, FFB is really very personal.
In fact, it is better to understand what the various settings do to have a ffb more suited to our needs, rather than copy the setup of others.
Since FFB settings are so personal... I'll just go ahead and post my settings here.
Podium Wheelbase DD1 (PS4 version) in PC compatibility mode
IN GAME SETTINGS
Self Aligning Torque: 0
Wheel Friction: 0
Tyre Friction: 50
Steering Centre Force Enabled: OFF
Steering Centre Force: 0
AMAZINGLY... My wheelbase settings transfer from GT Sport to GT7 and now to Dirt 2.0 as far as being 'personal' no... not in my opinion.
Why are you driving a DD1 with just 3.375Nm?
That's kind of wasted potential of the base which is capable of doing 20Nm...😅
good god man... BECAUSE THE NDP MORE THAN MAKE UP FOR IT WHILE NOT LOSING FEEL OF THE FFB
The more NDP you use, the more you lose feeling of the FFB.
But okay, as you wrote, FFB is personal and if you are happy with 3.375Nm (just 16.87% of what the Base could deliver) and that much Damping, then its fine ;)
You know so much... I'm getting all the FFB feels with a 70% damper setting... It's not personal when that's exactly how the other company operates... Thrustmaster wheels require no FFB settings changes from game to game and they've been doing it that way for well over 15 years.... regardless how players feel about it.... the do offer similar menus and options to tune the wheel but in 15 years of using a T500RS.... plz... unnecessary
If someone is looking for CSL DD 8 NM + wrc wheel settings here is what i've manage to get :
FANATEC CONTROL PANEL (PC MODE):
soft lock - on
dead zone for stering wheel - 0 (by default it got some value that i dont like)
Force Feedback Override - driver
Vibration & Feedback - on
Self Aligning Torque - 92
Wheel Friction - 25
Tire Friction - 50
Suspension - 150
Collision - 12
Soft Lock - 100
Steering Center Force - Enabled
Steering Center Force - 20
fanatec 100% dampening dri -2, asphalt dri -3
dirt 2 all - 65 except Steering Center Force - 20
its personal but feels odd if changing stock balance
waiting for CSW DD
are these current for Xbox ONE on CSL DD
Recently picked up csl dd 8 nm and clubsport 3.0 pedals and my pedal vibration and LEDs are super hit or miss. I feel like I've tried everything from manually changing the hardware settings file to enabling telemetry and LEDs while game is running or not running. Some days it works some days it doesn't, some days I get one or the other.
I haven't been sim racing for awhile since I kind of hated the G29 but since I got my new stuff I race everyday and DR2 is my favorite game. Maybe I should just upgrade to WRC, don't know.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
Try to change comp mode/pc mode on csl dd and check how it will work.
About getting EA WRC - if You wanna spend some money on that game then sure but for me its not worth it. EA WRC got pore optimalization, and mostly You gonna feel the same driving like in DR2. Sure it got more current cars, more maps but it is worth like half current price.
Thanks for the settings I just tried and i had great time with them.... I just lowered the FFB to 50% (4 Nm) and the suspension to 100...everything works great thanks again for sharing the settings 👍️