I have just updated this topic. Please have a look at this poll at GTplanet.
I can't vote on the poll, is it already closed? BTW i really don't like the rattle and i hope it wil be removed completely. This rattle has nothing to do with realism and brakes the immersion completely for me. The overall feeling of the FFB is much better after the update but because of this rattle i still not play GTS and went back to my Old love Assetto Corsa
I have just updated this topic. Please have a look at this poll at GTplanet.
I can't vote on the poll, is it already closed? BTW i really don't like the rattle and i hope it wil be removed completely. This rattle has nothing to do with realism and brakes the immersion completely for me. The overall feeling of the FFB is much better after the update but because of this rattle i still not play GTS and went back to my Old love Assetto Corsa
No,the poll is open I have not scheduled a closing date.But you have to be a GTPlanet member to be able to vote.
The prior update made the Fanatec CSL, for me almost undriveable. The ff was terrible and difficult to adjust. This resulted in having to go into the game options and use either Torque at 4 or 5. All prior settings had to be adjusted which for me took forever. But, after each race the Torque value would change which meant that in some races there was none if I hadn't checked it JUST prior to the start.
Very unhappy with the variances in other users experiences with the settings. I understand the individual users preferences and wheels (918 vs CSL, etc). However, the wheel settings shared by others are all over the place. Shouldn't there be a common range for settings?
The rattle issues concerns me because of the strong FF after the prior update almost tearing the wheel off the CSL, the noise, rattle, possible internal damage etc. This cannot be normal is is?
Hopefully, this newest update will resolve some of these issues and play into what Fanatec is investigating regarding the "rattle".
The prior update made the Fanatec CSL, for me almost undriveable. The ff was terrible and difficult to adjust. This resulted in having to go into the game options and use either Torque at 4 or 5. All prior settings had to be adjusted which for me took forever. But, after each race the Torque value would change which meant that in some races there was none if I hadn't checked it JUST prior to the start.
Very unhappy with the variances in other users experiences with the settings. I understand the individual users preferences and wheels (918 vs CSL, etc). However, the wheel settings shared by others are all over the place. Shouldn't there be a common range for settings?
The rattle issues concerns me because of the strong FF after the prior update almost tearing the wheel off the CSL, the noise, rattle, possible internal damage etc. This cannot be normal is is?
Hopefully, this newest update will resolve some of these issues and play into what Fanatec is investigating regarding the "rattle".
For me it is very strange to read that some are really complaining about the bad FFB now, I really can not understand that. Before the latest update and CSL implementation my FFB was nearly NON-existent in purple mode, therefore I played a lot Assetto Corsa on PS4.
Now, after the update in blue mode I get really good detailed FFB, I feel the bumps in the road, feel road texture differences, the curbs and have much better control of the car now because of the feedback which I get from the track.
I never use other peoples settings, because they are really personal, I tried some but did not work for me, so I guess everyone has to find their own settings. Since personal taste and demands are very different 1 golden master setup does not exist.
If you go and read the forum of GTplanet ( there you will find also a CSL thread where people complain ), then you will find out that the rattle is a new on purpose feature by PD. First I thought it is a bug, but it is NOT.
The rattle is for me the biggest concern now, when it starts to rattle sometimes it is sooo damn harsh that I am afraid it will destroy the mechanism inside the wheelbase, for sure NOT healthy for the wheel and besides that effect is totally unrealistic.
But in general, I can not understand why some people never stop complaining, before the implementation people ranted and even now they do, in GTplanet there is a lot of rant aswell.
The only Issue that I truly find is the "Rattle thing"... but I already had it with my previous T500RS and lived through it... of course it would be nice to have a possibility to remove it...
In truth this rattle comes as a warning for something you re doing, that is not in the best driving way... so if we drive in a way that it wont come up, it will mean that you are doing the "right thing".. mostly!
Hi I do agree that settings are extremely personal and you should play with your options until you find what suits you. The wheel for me is working fine now and all you need to do to make the rattle weak is simply decrease the FEI settings. I raced go karts and did some auto races in real life . (I am no Pro)and I can say that if you go to deep into a braking zone a wheel can become unstable as you are carrying a lot of speed into the corner . The wheel will not rattle but you will feel vibration as your tires slide. The effect is not unreal as some of you are saying. Of course this is only an opinion and I fully understand if people feel different on the topic
This are the Settings that I advise using: (not a fixed setting but variable depending of car and track)
In Game: CSS: 0 to 3 (mostly 1) FFB Torque: 2 or 3 (mostly 2) FFB Sens: 5 to 10 (mostly 6 to 8)
Wheel: SENS: AUT or variable depending on car and track (I try a few laps before deciding and tuning) FF : 50 to 80 (mostly 80) SHO: 0 ABS: 50 (but I think that 0 or 100 will do the same...) - Will be diferrent with Brake Sport Pedals V3 - Mine are the CSL Elite with Brake Mod DRI: 0 to 3 (4 and 5 may be used in special conditions)... >0 speeds up turning the wheel... sometimes.. to much.. (depends...) FOR: 80 to 100 (mostly 100) SPR: 10 or 20 (don´t leave at zero/off or your wheel may loose centering...) DPR: 0 (or Off) BRF: 0 to 30 (I have the brake Mod and above 40 makes hard braking absolutely needed... With this mod, if BRF too high, full braking willl not be achieved even using all your weight on the brake pedal...) FEI: 50 to 100 (mostly 60 to 80)
Hi there! Well, since the GTS update 1.15, it's a pain to push my brake pedal to the maximum. I use the CSR Elite pedals. I have the loadcell on it and even if I set it to 10 I almost have to be standing on the brake pedal to brake at maximum. It's really annoying, even more than the understeering rattles. All was good before 1.15, it was easy to brake.
Hi there! Well, since the GTS update 1.15, it's a pain to push my brake pedal to the maximum. I use the CSR Elite pedals. I have the loadcell on it and even if I set it to 10 I almost have to be standing on the brake pedal to brake at maximum. It's really annoying, even more than the understeering rattles. All was good before 1.15, it was easy to brake.
Has anyone already experienced this?
(Sorry for my so bad english, I'm french)
Hello Guillaume....well for a french your english is very well ;-)
I also use the "older" CSR Elite Pedals ( you mean the silver aluminum pedals? ) with my PS4 and the CSL Elite wheel. I also have the load cell and I played GTS with this setup before the wheel implementation and now. I DO NOT have any different braking than before, the braking force is same, before and after the 1.15 patch ( NOW we have a already version 1.16 )
Hi there! Well, since the GTS update 1.15, it's a pain to push my brake pedal to the maximum. I use the CSR Elite pedals. I have the loadcell on it and even if I set it to 10 I almost have to be standing on the brake pedal to brake at maximum. It's really annoying, even more than the understeering rattles. All was good before 1.15, it was easy to brake.
Has anyone already experienced this?
(Sorry for my so bad english, I'm french)
With BR on 10... you neeed some force, indeed but please don´t
exagerate.... I advise you to change to... 0!!! (off) that will solve
the issue!!
The prior update made the Fanatec CSL, for me almost undriveable. The ff was terrible and difficult to adjust. This resulted in having to go into the game options and use either Torque at 4 or 5. All prior settings had to be adjusted which for me took forever. But, after each race the Torque value would change which meant that in some races there was none if I hadn't checked it JUST prior to the start.
Very unhappy with the variances in other users experiences with the settings. I understand the individual users preferences and wheels (918 vs CSL, etc). However, the wheel settings shared by others are all over the place. Shouldn't there be a common range for settings?
The rattle issues concerns me because of the strong FF after the prior update almost tearing the wheel off the CSL, the noise, rattle, possible internal damage etc. This cannot be normal is is?
Hopefully, this newest update will resolve some of these issues and play into what Fanatec is investigating regarding the "rattle".
For me it is very strange to read that some are really complaining about the bad FFB now, I really can not understand that. Before the latest update and CSL implementation my FFB was nearly NON-existent in purple mode, therefore I played a lot Assetto Corsa on PS4.
Now, after the update in blue mode I get really good detailed FFB, I feel the bumps in the road, feel road texture differences, the curbs and have much better control of the car now because of the feedback which I get from the track.
I never use other peoples settings, because they are really personal, I tried some but did not work for me, so I guess everyone has to find their own settings. Since personal taste and demands are very different 1 golden master setup does not exist.
If you go and read the forum of GTplanet ( there you will find also a CSL thread where people complain ), then you will find out that the rattle is a new on purpose feature by PD. First I thought it is a bug, but it is NOT.
The rattle is for me the biggest concern now, when it starts to rattle sometimes it is sooo damn harsh that I am afraid it will destroy the mechanism inside the wheelbase, for sure NOT healthy for the wheel and besides that effect is totally unrealistic.
But in general, I can not understand why some people never stop complaining, before the implementation people ranted and even now they do, in GTplanet there is a lot of rant aswell.
Completely agree. I think people don't even understand what they are complaining about and just immediately lash out with all sorts of hysterical dooms day theories. I connected my wheel, updated my game, went into a Time Trial with default wheel settings, feedback wasn't strong enough now, so I increased it the in-game FFB settings to my personal preference, and the wheel feels so much better than it ever did in purple compatibility mode.
The first time I experience the understeer effect was when I completely over cooked it into a corner and cranked on a huge amount of understeer which then brought the rear around as one would expect when you are entering a corner too quickly. I feel that the effect is a little too strong but this sort of lightness in the wheel does happen in real life when the front wheels lose grip and the rear swings around drastically.
I have never experienced a dramatic rattling of the wheel though and to even trigger the understeer effect I have to be understeering a huge amount. Maybe the effect is less dramatic with higher in-game FFB settings but who knows.
I already reported the FFB Max Torque setting not being properly saved, and one of the developers 'teramoto_pd' responded within 24 hrs and let me know it will be fixed in the next patch on April 9th. No need for people to be hysterical, just clearly explain the issue.
The only Issue that I truly find is the "Rattle thing"... but I already had it with my previous T500RS and lived through it... of course it would be nice to have a possibility to remove it...
In truth this rattle comes as a warning for something you re doing, that is not in the best driving way... so if we drive in a way that it wont come up, it will mean that you are doing the "right thing".. mostly!
I don't experience the effect unless I have clearly made a big mistake or am actively trying to drift. You can understeer a decent amount without experiencing the understeer effect at all. Doesn't really bother me, but should just allow people to adjust it based on their preference and wheel setup.
Help !! How can I use again my TH8A shifter on GTS???? (with FANATEC CSL ELITE PS4 Wheel)
It happens that I was using previously on my PS4, the Thrustmaster TH8a Shifter
(connected to 2nd USB Port) withThrustmaster T500RS wheel for playing Gran Turismo
Sport, with no problems at all!
I changed my wheel to a Fanatec CSL ELITE PS4 compatible, and ... TH8a
Shifter is no more working on Grand Turismo Sport!!!! No feed at all!!! " />
Is there some added procedure that I´m missing??? If I use the Wheel
and the Shifter on my PC they both work fine with those racing
simulators that may use it... but on PS4 and with GTS... is like TH8a
does´nt exist... " />
Is there any way, software procedure/routine or a gadget to connect the shifter to the Fanatec ELITE Base, for example??
Can FANATEC wheel be configured to accept the shifter as "it´s side" on
the PS4 GTS game?? (I know that it may be configured for such on PC..
but that setting will not be of any use on the PS4.. I think!!! (or am I
wrong??)
Help !! How can I use again my TH8A shifter on GTS???? (with FANATEC CSL ELITE PS4 Wheel)
It happens that I was using previously on my PS4, the Thrustmaster TH8a Shifter
(connected to 2nd USB Port) withThrustmaster T500RS wheel for playing Gran Turismo
Sport, with no problems at all!
I changed my wheel to a Fanatec CSL ELITE PS4 compatible, and ... TH8a
Shifter is no more working on Grand Turismo Sport!!!! No feed at all!!! " />
Is there some added procedure that I´m missing??? If I use the Wheel
and the Shifter on my PC they both work fine with those racing
simulators that may use it... but on PS4 and with GTS... is like TH8a
does´nt exist... " />
Is there any way, software procedure/routine or a gadget to connect the shifter to the Fanatec ELITE Base, for example??
Can FANATEC wheel be configured to accept the shifter as "it´s side" on
the PS4 GTS game?? (I know that it may be configured for such on PC..
but that setting will not be of any use on the PS4.. I think!!! (or am I
wrong??)
drive hub maybe help you, but i suggest you buy a fanatec sq. It will make you happier
Help !! How can I use again my TH8A shifter on GTS???? (with FANATEC CSL ELITE PS4 Wheel)
It happens that I was using previously on my PS4, the Thrustmaster TH8a Shifter
(connected to 2nd USB Port) withThrustmaster T500RS wheel for playing Gran Turismo
Sport, with no problems at all!
I changed my wheel to a Fanatec CSL ELITE PS4 compatible, and ... TH8a
Shifter is no more working on Grand Turismo Sport!!!! No feed at all!!! " />
Is there some added procedure that I´m missing??? If I use the Wheel
and the Shifter on my PC they both work fine with those racing
simulators that may use it... but on PS4 and with GTS... is like TH8a
does´nt exist... " />
Is there any way, software procedure/routine or a gadget to connect the shifter to the Fanatec ELITE Base, for example??
Can FANATEC wheel be configured to accept the shifter as "it´s side" on
the PS4 GTS game?? (I know that it may be configured for such on PC..
but that setting will not be of any use on the PS4.. I think!!! (or am I
wrong??)
drive hub maybe help you, but i suggest you buy a fanatec sq. It will make you happier
I don´t think so!! I don´t like to be stolen.. in any way!!! And in no way the value to pay for a Fanatec shifter is even close to reasonable!! It´s a complete steal! Considering a rating qualification of both under a ratio price vs quality the Thrusmaster is like a zillion times better than the Fanatec one!! As simple as that!
I don´t think so!! I don´t like to be stolen.. in any way!!! And in no way the value to pay for a Fanatec shifter is even close to reasonable!! It´s a complete steal! Considering a rating qualification of both under a ratio price vs quality the Thrusmaster is like a zillion times better than the Fanatec one!! As simple as that!
Steering wheel and in-game settings will really just come down to personal preference. Would definitely recommend everyone just start with the default wheel settings, adjust the in-game settings to get a FFB strength you like, and then refine using the wheel settings from there.
Driving the E30 M3 with the CSL Elite is so glorious! Put in a ton of laps for a recent Daily Race and got a few wins with it and it is so nice to drive with this wheel and pedal setup. The LC brake makes heel/toe feel just like it does in my S2000 it's wonderful. The feedback from the wheel when the rear end steps out is so nice. Turning into a corner right on the edge of threshold braking is much easier as well. Even using curbs on some corners to help get the car rotating. I am very happy with the current state of the FFB from this game and wheel so looking forward to see how it works with continued development from PD.
(quietly hopes for PS4 support for the Podium wheel base as well)
Sharing current wheel settings with GT Sport on the PS4:
I have experimented with many of the previously shared settings in both this forum, GT Planet and YouTube. However, none of them were to my liking.
Using the Porsche 918 wheel with the Elite base and the V-3 pedals.....here goes:
Game Advanced settings are: 1-4-6
Steering: 25-27 (just be patient)
FFB: 55-62
Shock: 60
ABS: 50
Dri -01
For: 60
Spr: 90
Dpr:70
Brf: 70
Fei: 50
Hope this may be helpful for some.
Make certain that you have the current update, all connections are secure and the blue light is ON.
Hi all, I see a lot of people's settings where the SHOCK, SPR and DPR values are always on while many others they recommend to turn them completely off. I play GTS and PC2 now and I notice that on or off they make no difference to me. Any clues???
Technicaly may be outstanding! But I don´t need a Rolls Royce or a Technical miracle just to drive me to my work everyday... and that is the issue...
Are you sure that you are on the right website?
Just for playing the game, a gamepad would be enough
I´m talking about H shifters... case you did´nt get it... And Fanatec H Shifter is on another level... but fr example Fanatec as for the pedals area two to 3 different levels of quality.. coming from the base pedals.. passing through the load cell upgrade and to the V3 pedals (those are top of the art...) And for H shifters.. we only have the top... a more basic and less expensive shifter like that one from the Thrusmaster would be apreciated.. I´m sure...
Comments
Thanks!
In truth this rattle comes as a warning for something you re doing, that is not in the best driving way... so if we drive in a way that it wont come up, it will mean that you are doing the "right thing".. mostly!
In Game:
CSS: 0 to 3 (mostly 1)
FFB Torque: 2 or 3 (mostly 2)
FFB Sens: 5 to 10 (mostly 6 to 8)
Wheel:
SENS: AUT or variable depending on car and track (I try a few laps before deciding and tuning)
FF : 50 to 80 (mostly 80)
SHO: 0
ABS: 50 (but I think that 0 or 100 will do the same...) - Will be diferrent with Brake Sport Pedals V3 - Mine are the CSL Elite with Brake Mod
DRI: 0 to 3 (4 and 5 may be used in special conditions)... >0 speeds up turning the wheel... sometimes.. to much.. (depends...)
FOR: 80 to 100 (mostly 100)
SPR: 10 or 20 (don´t leave at zero/off or your wheel may loose centering...)
DPR: 0 (or Off)
BRF: 0 to 30 (I have the brake Mod and above 40 makes hard braking absolutely needed... With this mod, if BRF too high, full braking willl not be achieved even using all your weight on the brake pedal...)
FEI: 50 to 100 (mostly 60 to 80)
I hope it helps!
Well, since the GTS update 1.15, it's a pain to push my brake pedal to the maximum. I use the CSR Elite pedals. I have the loadcell on it and even if I set it to 10 I almost have to be standing on the brake pedal to brake at maximum. It's really annoying, even more than the understeering rattles.
All was good before 1.15, it was easy to brake.
Has anyone already experienced this?
(Sorry for my so bad english, I'm french)
Help !! How can I use again my TH8A shifter on GTS???? (with FANATEC CSL ELITE PS4 Wheel)
" />
Is there some added procedure that I´m missing??? If I use the Wheel
and the Shifter on my PC they both work fine with those racing
simulators that may use it... but on PS4 and with GTS... is like TH8a
does´nt exist... 
" />
It happens that I was using previously on my PS4, the Thrustmaster TH8a Shifter (connected to 2nd USB Port) withThrustmaster T500RS wheel for playing Gran Turismo Sport, with no problems at all!
I changed my wheel to a Fanatec CSL ELITE PS4 compatible, and ... TH8a Shifter is no more working on Grand Turismo Sport!!!! No feed at all!!!
Is there any way, software procedure/routine or a gadget to connect the shifter to the Fanatec ELITE Base, for example??
Can FANATEC wheel be configured to accept the shifter as "it´s side" on the PS4 GTS game?? (I know that it may be configured for such on PC.. but that setting will not be of any use on the PS4.. I think!!! (or am I wrong??)
drive hub maybe help you, but i suggest you buy a fanatec sq. It will make you happier